动态第134页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年09月10日

For a dramatic statement in your flower bed, try growing lupines (Lupinus spp.). These herbaceous perennials have mounds of bright green leaves and produce compact spikes of flowers that can grow upwards to 42 inches tall -- perfect for attracting bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The flowers of these legumes come in a range of colors from white, cream, pink, rose-mauve, pale yellow, all shades of blue and all shades of violet, including one so dark it's nearly black. Lupines generally thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 7, depending on the species and cultivar. [图片]Step 1 Select a well-drained site with full sunlight or semi-shade; tall varieties of lupines may need protection from the wind. The soil does not need to be particularly rich, but it should be neutral to slightly acidic. Test the soil and add sulfur or peat moss several weeks before planting to adjust its pH to between 6.8 and 7.2. Because lupines bloom early in the season and may look unsightly after flowering, place them near the back of the flower bed. Step 2 Transplant lupines in the spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the plant's container. Carefully remove the lupine from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and tamp down gently to remove air spaces. Water gently to settle the soil. Depending upon the species of lupine, space the plants 15 to 24 inches apart. Apply light, organic mulch to hold down weeds and to help retain soil moisture. Step 3 Water lupines regularly. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Apply a light amount of high potash fertilizer as the buds begin to form. Powdery mildew can be a problem, as well as aphids. Control these with a general fungicide and pesticide. Lupines can also develop viruses that cause stunting and discoloration. If this happens, destroy the plants; do not add them to the compost pile. [图片]Step 4 Watch for the lupines to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through mid-summer. Deadhead the plants regularly, removing spent flower spikes with pruning shears to prevent seed development. This allows the smaller flower spikes to develop and keeps lupines from spreading out of control. However, if you want to collect the seeds, allow the pods to dry on the plant and then collect the pods. Open the pods and store the seeds in an envelope in a cool dry place until time to plant. Step 5 Sow the lupine seeds either in the early fall or early spring. Scarify (nick) the seeds before planting to quicken germination. Plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. Because of the shallow planting depth, water gently so as not to disturb the seeds. Young seedlings require consistent moisture to help them establish healthy root systems.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月10日

Himalayan blue poppies are one of the few flowers that produce an intense sky-blue blossom. In their native location in China, they can grow to more than 6 feet tall; in other locations, they average 20 to 28 inches tall. These poppies look best planted in mass displays or threaded throughout a border. These flowers are not a good choice for the impatient gardener; in some locations they may not bloom the first season. The foliage will die down for the winter and you should expect to see blooms the second year. If it is prevented from blooming the first time the bud sets, the poppy is more likely to become a perennial. These flowers are suitable for USDA zones 3 to 8. [图片]Step 1 Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil. Step 2 Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart. Step 3 Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew. Step 4 Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies. [图片]Step 5 Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

杜鹃花好看，但也离不开主人的悉心呵护，尤其是盆栽杜鹃花，养护管理工作往往更不能马虎。对于不少花卉植物而言，为了提高改善土质，提高盆土的通透性而要定期为其松土，甚至还需要换盆换土。那么，盆栽杜鹃花也需要经常为其松土吗？今天，小编就和大家一起来探讨一下盆栽杜鹃花是否有必要经常松土的问题。盆栽杜鹃花需要经常松土吗 [图片]首先我们要清楚，杜鹃花是一种浅根性植物，而且其根系非常细小，甚至细得跟头发丝差不多。而长得比较粗壮的根系非常少，有时就连浇水太猛都容易伤害到根系。所以，在平时的养护管理过程中，我们需要小心呵护，尤其需要做好对根系的保护。而松土虽然能改善土壤疏松度，提高盆土的通透性，让根系呼吸更加顺畅，但对于杜鹃花这样的浅根、细根型植物，松土往往比较容易对根系造成较大的伤害。杜鹃花是靠大量的细根来汲取营养的，原创：wWw.pJCn.ORg一旦在松土过程中对根系造成过多伤害，就很容易影响其汲取能力，从而减弱树势，甚至给植株带来各种生长不良的现象，这是我们需要极力避免的。而且杜鹃宜浅植，所以松土的话，就注定很容易对根系造成较大的破坏。因此，在盆栽种养杜鹃花的过程中，不仅不能经常松土，同时还建议尽可能不要对其松土，以免对根系造成伤害而影响其正常的生长。既然不能对盆栽杜鹃花松土，那么随着长期以来对水肥的管理又不可避免，土壤也发生板结的现象及办结程度的加深也在所难免。所以，我们给杜鹃花配制盆土应该严格按照要求进行科学配土，而在水质方面也要使用优质的水源。即便浇水，一般我们也不能对盆内进行浇灌、冲淋，否则也容易将浅植的杜鹃根系冲出来。为了避免浇水时将杜鹃的根系冲出来，我们可以在盆面上铺上一层碎瓦片，当然如果能采用浸盆法进行补水，那补水将更加安全、均匀。 [图片]杜鹃花是一种浅根性花卉植物，其根系不仅纤细，同时也比较脆弱，如果松土的话，势必会损伤大量的根系，从而减弱根部的汲取能力。在植株无法得到充足的水分和养分的情况下，不仅会影响其正常生长，更会影响其开花。所以，我们有足够的理由不能为盆栽杜鹃花松土，而是使用疏松度高、不容易发生板结的土壤进行种养，这样可以大大降低盆土发生板结的程度或延缓发生板结的现象。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

夏鹃开出的花朵妖娆艳丽，叶四季常绿，不少家庭都喜欢选择夏鹃来做居家装饰，在日常生活中，应该怎么养护夏鹃呢？非常适合制作成盆景供欣赏，但也正因为其开花绚烂，观赏价值高，所以我们都希望能获得更长的观花时间，因此延长杜鹃盆景的花期是我们需要做好的工作。那么，怎样延长杜鹃盆景的花期，让观花时间更长久呢？怎样延长杜鹃盆景的花期不同的花卉植物具有不同的花期，不仅开花的季节不尽不同，同时花期也长短不一。这不仅由花卉植物的特性所决定，同时也受到生长环境的影响。为了让杜鹃盆景保持长期开放，我们不妨尝试通过改善其生长环境，改变养护管理手段来实现。为了达到延长花期的目的，通常情况下，我们需要从对杜鹃盆景的光温、水肥、修剪等方面的管理来实现。 [图片]一、生长环境由于杜鹃喜欢生长在阴凉湿润的环境下，所以我们平时需要尽可能为其创造出这样的生长环境，而摆放位置往往显得非常重要。一般要求摆放杜鹃盆景的位置既不能受到烈日暴晒，又不能缺乏必要的光照；既不能长期处于高温状态，又需要有最低温度保障；既不能要确保空气流通顺畅，又需要防止大风肆虐。同时为了做好保湿工作，也需要多喷洒叶面水和地面水。二、盆土要求杜鹃比较喜欢肥沃疏松、透气透水效果好的酸性土壤，延长：wWw.pJCn.ORg所以我们配土时可以通透性良好的沙质壤土为主，然后在其中拌入一些腐殖质即可。虽然杜鹃比较喜欢湿润，但也怕积水，尤其是在高温湿热、通风差的环境下，更要杜绝一切积水现象。所以，这除了要科学浇水之外，还需要盆土具有良好的通透性，一旦浇水过多时，让多余的水分能被及时排出去。而在盆土中添加腐殖质，可以为盆内增加不少养分，这对于促进杜鹃的生长，甚至是开花都是非常重要的。三、科学浇水杜鹃喜欢湿润，却不耐水涝，尤其是在夏季这种气温比较高、天气比较热的环境下，如果再加上通风条件差的话，不仅容易滋生病虫害，同时也非常容易引起沤根、烂根现象。而且杜鹃的根系比较细小，并没有大量健壮的根系，所以吸水能力比较差，切忌浇水太多。而且杜鹃是浅根性植物，一般进行浅植，即便浇水也不能用大水浇灌或冲淋，否则容易将根系冲出来。一般是通过浸盆的方式或喷水的方式给水。更重要的是如果在夏季高温天气下，要避免在一天当中气温最高的时间段补水，同时也要注意水温，包括在冬季浇水，不能让水温与外界温度形成太大的反差。四、合理施肥杜鹃比较喜欢肥沃的土壤环境，但由于其根系过于纤细，明显的健壮根系，所以施肥不能太猛，一定要控制好浓度，以稀薄为主。同时也要避免施入生肥，否则容易烧坏植株的根系，从而让根部无法正常汲取营养，影响杜鹃的生长。但施肥也要把握好时机，一般在春季初期和冬季末期施入一些有机肥料。但由于杜鹃花朵硕大，盛花期又在夏季，并不适合在花期施肥，而开花又是一件比较耗费养分的事情。所以，我们可以在开花前后进行追肥。花前追肥是为了促进花芽分化与形成，为开花储备充足养分；花后追肥是由于花期消耗大量养分而需要通过追肥来恢复和增强树势。 [图片]五、注重修剪杜鹃盆景的修剪工作一般在春秋两季进行，主要是剪除老弱病残枝、重叠枝、过密枝、交叉枝等既不利于保持株型又会白白消耗养分的枝条，同时也需要在花后及时摘除残花和剪短花枝。科学地进行修剪处理，既可以让杜鹃盆景保持美观的株型，同时有可以节省养分，再者还可以改善通风透光效果，促进光合作用，减少病虫害的发生，刺激植株更好地萌发新枝新叶。这不仅能更好地促进杜鹃的生长，让其始终保持优美的观赏状态，同时也能促进萌发，尤其是抽出花枝，让开花数量更多，品质更高，整个盆景的观赏性也更强。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

夏鹃作为常见的家庭欣赏花卉，要想达到最佳的美化效果，除了养护得当之外，对盆景的制作修整也是不可或缺的一项工作。夏鹃盆景的制作有很强的艺术性，要根据植株的整体形态，结合整形修剪吊扎等各种操作技巧，把夏鹃盆景打造成优美造型。今天小编就和大家探讨一下杜鹃盆景如何越冬的问题。夏鹃盆景如何越冬 [图片]夏鹃最适宜的生长温度保持在20°C-28℃之间，不过夏鹃相对于许多花卉植物而言，冬季却要耐寒得多。即便这样，我们也需要控制好夏鹃冬季养护条件下的温度，以确保其能顺利越冬。夏鹃比较适合在我国南方地区温暖湿润的生长环境下，即便是在冬季，室外气温也不会太低，加之其具有一定的耐寒能力，所以也比较容易越冬。不过，为了确保杜鹃盆景不被冻伤而影响其正常的生长活动，一般也要求冬季气温不要低于5°C，这样才能确保其顺利越冬。如果是在冬季的北方地区，往往养护难度会大得多。毕竟北方地区的冬季往往气温非常低，室外温度一般是低于5°C以下的，甚至会出现零下数十度的低温环境。而夏鹃在这样的环境下是无法顺利越冬的，所以在北方地区一般冬季需要在冬季来临之前要及时将其搬至室内养护。然后，在北方地区即便是将夏鹃盆景搬进室内养护，也需要注意几个方面的管理，以确保其能顺利越冬。首先是温度控制，一般要求温度保持在5°C以上，但同时也不能让温度过高。因为温度过高时会打破其休眠，让其出现徒长现象，如果任由其生长，必然会影响来年的开花，甚至会出现不开花的现象。所以，将温度控制在合理的范围内，让其既能顺利越冬，又不会打破其休眠期。同时，将夏鹃盆景摆放在室内养护，由于北方地区一般有暖气，原创：wWW.PjcN.orG所以一定需要选择好摆放位置，除了要避免室内气温太高之外，还需要避免将盆景摆放在正对暖风出风口的位置，否则植株容易出现萎蔫、枯萎等现象。同时由于北方的空气比较干燥，需要经常喷水以保湿，避免出现环境过于干燥的现象而影响夏鹃的生长状态。而且北方的冬季除了气温低之外，低温天气持续的时间还比较长，如果长时间将其摆放在室内，必然会缺乏光照。所以，一旦出现晴天，应当将盆景摆放在靠近窗台的向阳地方，让其充分接收光线，从而进行正常的光合作用。如果中午时分外界气温适宜的话，可以将其在一天当中气温最高的时段将夏鹃搬至室外让其充分接收光照。待气温降低时，再及时将其搬回室内养护。 [图片]夏鹃盆景的越冬问题一直以来是许多盆友比较关注的问题。但只要我们能掌握住其中的几个要点，顺利越冬一般也不存在多大困难，主要是做好保暖御寒、喷水保湿、适当采光等方面的措施。只要大家能做好这些方面的细节处理，相信夏鹃盆景是能顺利度过寒冬的。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

荆树疙瘩盆景外形多变，枝叶常绿，绽放出的紫色花朵伴有淡淡馨香，观赏价值极高。同时，荆树也具有顽强的生命力，能很好地适应恶劣的生长环境。荆树不仅喜欢光照和温暖，同时也耐阴耐寒，而且对土壤要求并不高，喜欢湿润，所以根据其这些习性特点，我们就能很好地掌握其生长规律，为其创造良好的生长环境。荆树疙瘩盆景的养护既然荆树盆景生命力顽强，能适应比较恶劣的而生长环境，自然比较容易将其种养好。即便放在室内养护，往往也比较容易将其养好。那么，荆树盆景怎么养呢？下面，小编就为大家分享一下荆树疙瘩盆景的养护管理方法。 [图片]一、盆土荆树的许多品种都比较耐贫瘠，对土壤的要求比较低，即便是在轻度盐碱化的土壤环境中，往往也能成活。但为了让其更好地保持生长，一般我们还是需要为其配制肥沃疏松、透气透水的土壤环境。而且我们需要使用深盆进行种养，虽然荆树是浅根性树种，但其根系仍然比较发达，比较喜欢深厚的土壤。二、光照荆树喜欢光照，尤其是在生长季。当光照充分时，树木长势更好，原创：wWw.pJCn.Org其叶片会更加鲜绿，观赏价值更高。但在夏季的烈日下也建议适当遮阴，避免其叶片被灼伤。同时，荆树也比较耐阴，所以也适合摆放在室内养护。不过，室内环境也不能过于荫蔽，一般摆放在向阳的明亮处，这样可以接收散射光以保持正常的光合作用。三、温度荆树喜欢温暖的生长环境，所以在我国南方的广大地区常常见到其身影。不过，荆树也比较耐寒，甚至能承受-5°C的低温环境，尤其是黑荆树，甚至可以短期承受-60°C的超低温环境而不会被冻死。只不过，荆树对霜冻比较敏感，所以冬季气温过低时也需要及时做好保暖御寒措施，避免发生冻害而影响越冬。四、浇水虽然荆树比较喜欢湿润的生长环境，但其耐水能力并不强，如果浇水过多而造成树木的根系长期浸泡在水中的话，往往会引起闷根的现象，尤其是在高温天气下。所以，只要盆土不适特别干燥，一般没有必要急着浇水，而通常需要等到盆土变干后再浇透水。五、施肥荆树具有顽强的生命力，这在野外的生长过程种就能得到很好的体现。由于荆树比较耐贫瘠，对肥料的依赖程度并不高，即便施肥，往往也以稀薄为主。切不可大量施肥，否则比较容易引起枝叶徒长现象，容易改变盆景的造型，从而影响观赏。 [图片]六、病虫由于土壤中的有害病菌比较多，这对于荆树疙瘩而言，往往危害比较大。所以除了上盆之外建议对盆土进行消毒杀菌处理之外，平时在养护管理过程中也要做好防治工作。而不同的荆树品种有时也容易遭受到不同的病虫害的侵袭，常见的有炭疽病、立枯病、流胶病、黑蚱、金龟子类、蝶蛾类、叶甲类等。所以平时除了要提高比较适宜的生长环境之外，同时也要做好相关管护工作。当然，以上几点是养好荆树疙瘩盆景的几个重要方面，想要让荆树疙瘩盆景保持良好的观赏状态，往往还需要做好修剪、整形、换盆等相关工作，在这里小编就不再一一赘述，希望大家在实践中多去探索和总结。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

又到了吃荔枝的季节了！“壳如红缯，膜如紫绡，瓤肉莹白如冰雪，浆液甘酸如醴酪”，一颗荔枝就能给人满满的幸福感。但大神已经不仅仅局限在吃荔枝了，而是用荔枝核养出盆栽！荔枝盆栽多以观赏为主，一般用于点缀和美化家居环境，而进入到普通的家庭中又主要以矮化产品和盆栽管理的方式进行。在株形高度上，往往以100公分左右为宜，而为了控制株形，达到矮化的目的，可以采取减少盆内土壤量、控制水肥和人工摘芽等方式来管理，这样才能达到以观赏为目的的效果。今天，小编就为大家分享一下盆栽荔枝的养殖方法。盆栽荔枝的养殖方法荔枝盆栽多使用浅盆种植荔枝核，以3份河沙与1份腐殖土混合搭配拌匀后使用，当然如果能找到泥炭土更好，甚至可以直接上盆种植。待果核都成苗吐绿后，就可以当做盆栽进行养殖管理了。而盆栽荔枝的养护管理工作主要表现在光温、水肥、修剪、整形及病虫害等方面。 [图片]一、光照荔枝对于光照的要求比较高，即便作为盆栽种养，一般也需要将其摆放在向阳的地方。因为光照充足的话，植株才能有效促进光合作用，从而确保植株生长更加健壮。而且如果花果阶段提供充足的光照，可以促进开花结果，促进果实的发育，进而提升果实的品质。但如果光线过强的话，水分蒸发量也大，所以开花授粉也比较困难。而挂果期却需要充足的光照才能增进果色，提高果实品质。二、温度荔枝的正常生长受温度的影响比较大，尤其是在花果期，往往对温度更加敏感。荔枝的根系在23℃-26℃的温度环境下往往生长最为迅速，而空间温度达到16℃以上才能顺利萌发新梢，通常植株在24℃-29℃的环境下往往生长最快。而当气温气温达到13℃时，荔枝会逐渐开花，温度达到20℃-24℃时开花最旺，但为了确保花芽正常分化，一般要求花期温度不能超过27℃。可见，荔枝这种果树是比较喜欢温暖的。三、浇水荔枝的生长需要充足的水分，尤其是为了促进新梢的萌发，原创：wWw.pJCn.ORg一般每周要浇一次透水，否则在缺水的情况下，植株的萌发会受到一定影响。而水分充足时，往往会长得枝繁叶茂，同时也比较利于长成成熟的结果枝。而在抽穗后，也应当适当增加浇水以促进花穗的生长，而果实膨大期间需要量往往更多，可以促进果实的生长发育。但浇水过多而造成盆内积水的话，往往也会容易造成落果现象，而且还可能引起果实出现霜霉病。四、施肥由于盆栽荔枝幼树的长势往往比较弱，主要是由于其根系分布比较差，而且花盆大小与土量所限，所以上盆定植前两年一般以浇施稀薄、腐熟的鸡粪水、豆饼水或复合肥水肥为主，配合化肥施用，以薄肥寝室为原则。适当地追肥，可以加速荔枝快速形成树冠，为开花结果打好基础。五、修剪盆栽荔枝的修剪一般在可在四季进行，但以春剪、夏剪、冬剪为主。春剪通常在每年的3-5月期间进行；夏剪多在盛夏的7-8月期间进行；冬剪一般从12月开始到来年的2月期间进行。但修剪一般以剪除病虫枝、生长过密枝、老弱细枝为主。适当的修剪，不仅可以促进新枝的萌发，同时也能保持良好的株型。六、整形荔枝的整形一般从上盆定植2-3年内完成，通常将矮干、主枝分布均匀而紧凑的植株剪成半圆头型树冠。在盆栽的不同方向上保留3-5个主枝，每个主枝再培育2-3个副主枝，最终形成盆栽荔枝的骨干部分。而当主枝与副主枝之间形成的分叉角度比较小时，可以通过拉、撑、顶等手段进行调整直到需要的角度，从而让盆栽的株型更加美观。 [图片]七、病虫荔枝树比较容易遭受炭疽病、蝽蟓、尺蠖、叶瘿蚊等病虫害的侵袭，所以平时在养护管理期间需要为植株提供一个良好的生长氛围，避免感染病虫害。而一旦遭受这些病虫害时，要及时喷药予以杀之。而可以使用的药物有甲基托布津、味鲜胺、百泰、阿维菌素、敌敌畏、杀灭菊酯等，按照合适的比例兑水稀释再喷杀。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

Peonies (Paeonia spp.) can grow well in containers. Common garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, are herbaceous perennials that die down in fall. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa, USDA zones 4 through 8) are woody shrubs. Select containers that complement your garden's style, such as metal containers for contemporary gardens, faded terracotta for Mediterranean gardens, or decorative clay pots for cottage gardens. [图片]Containers for Growing Peonies Peonies need large containers with drainage holes. Peony root balls are large, and their containers should fit the root balls without crushing them, plus another inch or two of space around root balls' sides and bases. A 5-gallon container is usually large enough for one peony. Most frost-proof containers are suitable, including clay, wood and plastic. Common garden peonies don't tolerate transplanting well, and tree peonies are slow-growing, so both plants should stay in their containers for three or four years. Heavy containers such as clay help prevent tree peonies from blowing over in strong winds, but dry out quickly compared to wood and plastic containers. Wood containers made of cypress or cedar are rot-resistant. Sites and Potting Soils Full-sun or partially shaded sites are best for growing peonies, and the plants need organically-rich, well-draining potting soil. These large plants are heavy and difficult to move, so choose your growing site well, or place the pots on boards with wheels. A mixture of soilless potting soil and well-rotted manure or rich garden compost is suitable for growing peonies. You can buy commercial soilless potting soil or you can mix your own using 1 part sphagnum peat moss and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. Mix 2 shovels of potting soil with 1 shovel of manure or compost, and fill the containers with this mixture. Every spring, when new growth appears on the peonies, scrape the loose potting soil mixture from the surface of the containers and replace it with fresh mixture. Water and Fertilizer Peonies in containers need more water and fertilizer than plants in the ground. Water the peonies when the soil surface is dry. Slowly pour water over the potting soil until it appears through the drainage holes in the base of the container. In hot weather, peonies may need watering once or more per day. [图片]Fertilize peonies in pots once every month while the plants are in leaf. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and apply the solution to the potting soil. You can replace water with fertilizer solution if the peonies need watering. Manufacturer's instructions vary between products, so read and follow the instructions on the label. Frost Protection An advantage of growing peonies in containers is that you can move them indoors to protect them from frosts. Freezing temperatures can damage peonies and affect flowering in the following season. When common garden peonies have died down and tree peonies have lost all their leaves, move the containers to an unheated indoor area, such as a garage. Water the containers when the soil surface is dry to a depth of 1 inch. The peonies aren't growing and using water at this time. It's important not to water so much that the potting soil becomes soggy, which can cause rotting. Move the containers outdoors again when new growth appears in spring.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

For a colorful, showy display of flowers, few plants out-perform the peony (Paeonia spp.), a perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, with some variation among the different varieties. Although most peonies are attractive even when not in bloom, it can be discouraging when a plant fails to bloom or produces only a few flowers. Giving a peony some extra care or making a few adjustments can help prevent or correct this problem. [图片]Plant Maturity and Depth A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface. Correct Fertilizer Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well. Sun and Other Issues Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry. [图片]Disease Control Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

The plant commonly called vinca (Catharanthus roseus) grows as a short, upright bush, covered in small pink or magenta flowers. It grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 but can be treated as a summer annual elsewhere. Vinca's close cousins, greater periwinkle (Vinca major), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9, and common periwinkle (Vinca minor), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, can become invasive, but vinca doesn't usually spread beyond its garden bed. Care Basics [图片]Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them. Watering Needs [图片]Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants. Regular Maintenance [图片]Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants. Common Problems [图片]Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.

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