动态第149页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年08月13日

Potted mums are usually treated as annual flowers because they cannot tolerate the cold conditions during the winter months. Most potted varieties are known as florist's mums since they are sold as a living seasonal bouquet. A different mum variety, called hardy mum, is typically grown as a bedding plant. Tender, potted mums can survive the winter months with proper care and protection from frost, providing you with a second year of flowering the following fall. [图片]Remove the mums from the pot they came in once flowering completes. Divide the roots of the separate plants. Most purchased mums come three or more plants to a pot. [图片]Replant the mums into 6-inch diameter pots filled with standard potting soil, planting one plant per pot. Plant the mums at the same depth they were growing at in the previous pot. [图片]Cut back the old flower stems on each mum plant. Trim the stems after the foliage begins to die back naturally. [图片]Bring the mums indoors once the outdoor temperature drops below 60 degrees F. Place the mums in a sunny window. Leave mums outdoors in areas with warm winters. [图片]Water the mums when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Provide enough water to moisten the soil but avoid overwatering, which can cause soggy soil conditions. [图片]Pinch off the top inch of each shoot once the shoots are approximately 6 inches long. Pinching causes lateral branching and further flower bud formation. Continue to pinch the plants until late July. [图片]Move the plants outdoors once nighttime temperatures are regularly above 60 degrees F in spring. Bring the plants indoors temporarily if a late season frost is expected.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月13日

When the turfgrass lawns all around it lie exhausted and brown in the summer heat, the narrow, arching, green foliage of liriope (Liriope muscari) keeps its cool. Perennial liriope, also known as lilyturf, isn't grass. In mass plantings, however, it forms a lush ground cover, with the late-summer bonus of lavender flower spikes. [图片]Although marketed as an evergreen that is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, lilyturf may develop brown, withered foliage during winter in some areas. That is most likely to occur when temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Deep cold isn't lilyturf's only enemy. In all climates, the fungal disease anthracnose may leave the plant brown and tattered. Whether cold or disease is the problem, a well-timed trim is the solution. Timing the Trim The best time to trim lilyturf's damaged old foliage is anytime before its healthy new foliage emerges in spring. Otherwise, you'll shave the top of the fresh growth as well as the old growth. Fall trimming of anthracnose-blemished plants -- in warm-winter climates, at least -- keeps them looking good until spring. Cutting back cold-damaged foliage can wait until anytime between January and April, depending on when the threat of subzero temperatures subsides in your area. Choosing Your Method Trim a large lilyturf planting with a lawn mower; for edgings or border-accent plants, hedge trimmers are easier to manage. Hedge trimmers are also better for cutting lilyturf with sprouting leaves because the tool can cut just above the new growth. [图片]Making the Cuts Before mowing lilyturf, adjust the mower blades to their highest setting. Use the hedge trimmers like a giant pair of scissors. Kneeling, hold the trimmer grips firmly, and slide the blades into the foliage 3 to 4 inches above the crowns. As you cut, keep the blades horizontal and parallel to the ground. Otherwise, the trimmed plants will look uneven and spiky.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月13日

Amstel Series begonias (Begonia x Hiemalis Amstel Series) have a mounding form, typically reaching about 12 inches tall. They usually bloom continuously throughout the growing season. The members of this series belong to the group called Rieger begonias, which were developed by crossing a tuberous begonia with a wax begonia. [图片]Amstel begonias grow as perennials outdoors only in the frost-free climates in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, but you can treat them as annuals or grow them as houseplants elsewhere. Where to Plant Amstel begonias are relatively tolerant of heat and can grow in a variety of light conditions, but do best in a spot that receives sunlight filtered through leaves or that is otherwise partially shaded. Watering Amstel begonias need consistent moisture, but won't tolerate soggy, saturated soils. Monitor the soil's moisture level carefully, and water so the soil doesn't dry out completely but is never waterlogged. If you're growing your begonias in pots or containers, make sure the containers have drainage holes and are never left sitting in standing water. Fertilizer Amstel begonias benefit from a monthly application of fertilizer to help them to continue to bloom prolifically through the season. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of water-soluble 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the solution to water the plant. Apply it at the base of the plant, and avoid getting the fertilizer on the plant's leaves and stems. Pruning Over the course of the season, Amstel begonias may get leggy or have a ragged in appearance. If this happens, prune or pinch the stems back so that they contain three to five growth nodes. The plants will rebound from this severe pruning and should start to bloom again in a week or two. Removing wilted flowers promptly will encourage the plant to put its energy into new flowers and will help ensure it keeps blooming vigorously. If you use pruners to maintain the plant, dip the blades in isopropyl alcohol after each cut to help prevent the spread of diseases. [图片]Pests and Diseases Amstel begonias are resistant to most pests and diseases and should be problem-free given good growing conditions. To prevent fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, avoid getting the leaves wet when you're watering and space the plants 12 to 15 inches apart so that there is plenty air circulation around the plants.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月13日

Perennial delphiniums bloom from late spring to early summer, and may even grace you with a second showing in later summer or early fall. To make the most of the blooming season, deadhead these plants regularly. Deadheading, or the removal of spent flowers, is simply a way of coaxing these plants to form new blooms on the offshoots of their main stalks. When you remove the flowers before seeds are allowed to mature, delphinium plants sense that the seeds need to be replaced and send up more blooms. You're essentially fooling them into making more flowers for you. [图片]Step 1 Cut stately blooming delphinium spikes freely for your stunning indoor arrangements throughout the growing season. Use clean, sharp shears and make your cuts just below the lowest flower on the stem. Step 2 Deadhead your delphiniums as the individual blooms fade. Cut a spent flower's stem completely back to the nearest pair of leaves or set of branching stems. This is where the next flower buds will emerge. Step 3 Remove the blooming stalk as soon as its last remaining flower is spent. Cut the spike off cleanly at the base of the plant. [图片]Step 4 Prune any dead or damaged leaves out of the plant to tidy it up, if you wish. Don't remove any more of the foliage than necessary. Your delphinium will form new shoots from its base soon after you've cut the flower stem. The new growth will develop into flower spikes later in the season and they'll need the nourishment that the leaves provide.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月12日

Few plants are more versatile than the begonia (Begonia spp.), which comes in many different types. One group is especially well-adapted to growing in a hanging planter or basket, either outdoors or in the house. This type of begonia is called trailing or scadent -- scadent means "climbing" -- because its branches can become quite long, in some varieties up to 8 feet, making them ideal for hanging planters. For example, some types of tuberous begonias (Begonia tuberosa) have this type of growth habit and do especially well as hanging plants. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but can also grow as annuals or as houseplants, needing only basic care and occasional trimming to thrive. [图片]Light Needs Trailing begonias need strong light to produce a full, multi-stemmed plant with lots of flowers. If you grow the plant outdoors, keep it in a spot that gets some filtered sun in the morning, but avoid full sun at midday or during the hot afternoon hours because this could burn the plant. A spot under a widely-branched tree that provides shifting sun and partial shade is ideal. Indoors, keep a houseplant in a bright spot, such as in an east window where it gets some morning sun. If the leaves start to fade and become light green, this indicates that the begonia is getting too much light, so move the plant to a shadier spot. If the stems get extra-long, with long distances between leaf origins, this signals that the plant needs more light; in this case, move it to a brighter spot. Water Needs Hanging begonia plants do best when soil is evenly moist, but it's important not to over-water because this can cause constantly soggy soil which can damage the plant and, if uncorrected, might kill it. For an indoor-grown plant, water whenever the top inch or two feels dry to the touch, allowing the pot to drain fully. Never keep the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can cause root rot. A hanging begonia grown outdoors needs watering whenever its soil surface feels dry. It's a good idea to check this every few days during the summer, because hot weather can cause the soil to dry quickly. Whether grown indoors or in the garden, a begonia slows its growth during winter when it rests, so cut back watering during the winter months. [图片]Fertilizing Guidelines Fertilizing a hanging begonia every other time you give it water helps keep the plant growing and flowering during it active season, usually from spring until early fall. Use a balanced formula such as 20-20-20, diluting it half-strength or about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for further directions. To boost flowering, you can switch to a high-phosphorus formula just before flowering starts, usually in early summer, to help set more flower buds. For example, use a 15-30-15 formula, diluting 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for garden plants and 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for houseplants, but check the product label for additional information. Feed the plant every one or two weeks until the blooming season ends, usually in fall. Withhold fertilizer during winter to give the plant a rest. Trimming and Other Care Trailing begonias in hanging planters can start appearing leggy as the season progresses and the stems get longer. Encourage bushier growth and lateral branching by pinching back the growing tips frequently, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading plant diseases. By varying the length of stems through trimming, you can also produce a more shapely plant. For an older plant, remove some old stems now and then to encourage new growth from the plant's base. Begonias are usually free of significant disease problems, but they can attract several pests, including fluffy white mealybugs. Control these by touching each pest with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to destroy it. The plant might also attract spider mites, which form visible, web-like coverings on leaves and flowers. Destroy these pests by spraying the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water; repeat this every two weeks as needed. Frost Protection If you grow a hanging begonia outdoors year round and you expect unusual cold or even a bit of frost, bring the plant indoors until weather warms. You can also leave it outdoors, but protect it by hanging a light cloth from the planter's hook so it covers the entire plant, or by placing the planter in a plastic bag that's large enough to enclose the entire plant, tying the bag's open ends to the planter's hook. Be careful when removing any covering, so that you don't injure stems or flower buds.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月12日

Bee balm, (Monarda didyma) also know commonly as Oswego tea, monarda, bergamot, or horsemint is an all-purpose flowering perennial that grows almost anywhere with little to no care. In fact, monarda is so eager to become established that it out competes many other plants. There are, however, many species that can partner well with bee balm and provide a frenzy of garden blooms throughout most of the summer into fall. [图片]Phlox A good companion for bee balm is summer phlox (Phlox paniculata). Sharing the colors and hues of bee balm it provides a sturdy mostly care-free floral display that compares favorably with monarda. While both are prone to mildew, they benefit from similar prevention strategies such as reduced summer fertilization. Both species like the same garden condition of full sun, regular water, but no overhead irrigation. The two species grow to about the same height and can be used as specimens as well as planted in massings and drifts. Eupatorium Because bee balm tolerates a wide range of garden conditions and is aggressive enough to hold its own against all comers, planting it with Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum) makes for a great combination. Bee balm can readily partner with the much taller Joe Pye weed and both are butterfly magnets in the hot summer sun. Both are appropriate choices for rain gardens as they grow well in moist soils and can tolerate occasional wet "feet." Moreover as an added bonus, neither species suffers from any major insect problem. Rudbeckia The yellow summer flowers of the black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) offer a striking contrast to the similar-sized pink-to-red and purple bee-balm. The daisylike flowers of the rudbeckias are contrasted with the clustered flowers of the monarda providing interest beyond color in the summer garden. The spreading nature of both plants in some situations can lead to a healthy competition of over-eager contenders for the title of garden bully as both species are somewhat invasive and vie for attention and space. [图片]Echinacea If the summer garden plan calls for soft pastels and look for a daisy shape to complement the bee balm then purple cone flowers (Echinacea purpurea) are just the thing. Though the common name includes "purple," cone flowers come in a dizzying wide array of colors from white through tangerines to deep purples. Through the years cone flowers may need some help fending off the vigorous growth of the bee balms.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月12日

Black-eyed susans (Rudbeckia hirta) grow as biennials or short-lived perennials. They break dormancy the first year and flower the next. You can sow the seeds outdoors in fall or spring, but they still require some fall preparation for a spring planting. Black-eyed Susans grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, where they perform much like perennials because they readily self-sow. Fall Sowing [图片]Black-eyed Susans sprout in the spring if you plant them in fall in climates that experience at least three months of temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the seeds in early to midfall, about six weeks before the first expected frost. Work a 2-inch-thick layer of compost into the top 8 inches of a well-drained garden bed that receives full summer sun. The plants grow in average soil conditions, so fertilizer amendments aren't necessary. Sow approximately six seeds per square foot and cover them with a 1/4- to 1/2-inch layer of soil. Not all seeds germinate the first year, which is why you need to sow so thickly. Spring Planting [图片]Seeds sown in spring require pretreatment if you want flowers the first year. Keep the seeds in a place where it's 40 F or cooler, either outdoors or in the refrigerator, for three months before planting to help the seeds break dormancy. Plant the seeds 1/4-inch deep in the prepared garden bed in spring, after the last frost date. Space the seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions and thin them to the appropriate spacing after they germinate. Indoor Planting [图片]Indoor-sown black-eyed Susans still require cold treatment to germinate. Pot the seeds in cell packs or 2-inch seedling pots in fall, sowing one or two seeds per container. Use a moistened, sterile seed-starting media to minimize fungal growth. After potting, place the containers in a sealed bag to retain moisture and place the pots outdoors or in the fridge to maintain the 40 F temperature. Take the pots out of cold storage four to six weeks before the last frost date. Provide them with all-day sun and water when the soil surface feels dry. The seedlings should be about 6 inches tall and ready for outdoor transplant by the last expected frost in spring. Plant the seedlings at the same depth they are at in the pot, spacing them 12 inches apart in the garden bed. Early Care [图片]Moderately moist soil helps ensure germination and healthy seedling growth. Water the bed beginning in spring as needed so the top 6 inches of soil stay moist. Direct-sown seeds will require thinning after they sprout. Pinch off the extra seedlings at ground level once the plants begin growing in their second or third set of leaves. Black-eyed Susan plants grow to a 12 inch spread, so leave about 12 inches between plants. Slugs can destroy the seedlings. Set slug traps around the garden or hand pick the pests from the bed after dark. Once established, black-eyed Susans require little care and rarely suffer from pest problems.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月12日

There are approximately 300 species of dianthus to choose from, in biennial, annual and perennial varieties. They have colorful blooms in numerous shades of pink, white, red and purple. The blooms open in spring and will last until frost, if provided with the right growing conditions and care. Dianthus are not fussy plants and it takes very little to keep them happy. Plentiful sunlight, sufficient water and regular grooming help ensure that blooms adorn the plants all season long. [图片]Step 1 Plant dianthus in a site that receives full sun at least six hours every day. Step 2 Place 2 inches of mulch around the plants to keep moisture from evaporating too quickly. Step 3 Water dianthus when less than 1 inch of rain falls in a week. Step 4 Feed every month during the growing season with water-soluble fertilizer. Step 5 Clip the blooms off as they fade. Step 6 Broadcast a 1-inch layer of compost around the plants each spring if growing perennial or biennial dianthus. [图片]Step 7 Divide perennial dianthus clumps once every three or four years. This is best done in early spring.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月12日

Varieged ginger (Alpinia zerumbet) is a dramatic, upright plant with long, sword-shaped leaves variegated in shades of yellow and green. Fragrant pink and white flowers adorn the plant throughout much of the year. Variegated ginger, which grows from underground rhizomes that look much like ginger root, is propagated by dividing the rhizomes of mature plants. A warm-climate plant, variegated ginger is suitable for planting in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 to 11. [图片]Growing Requirements Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil. Propagation by Division To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes. Planting Divisions Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting. [图片]General Care Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月11日

Although sedums are hardy plants that grow in even harsh conditions with little care, they often become floppy and collapse in the center. Floppiness is especially a problem with tall sedum varieties such as "Autumn Joy," "Black Jack" and "Autumn Fire. A few minutes of routine maintenance keeps sedums bushy and upright. [图片]Causes Floppiness is normal for tall sedum varieties that aren't routinely pruned; the plant eventually becomes top heavy and collapses under the weight of the blooms. Lack of sunlight and too much fertility in the soil are also common causes of floppiness and caving in at the center of the plant. Sedum is a warm-weather succulent plant that thrives in full sunlight and average or poor soil. Some sedum varieties are tough enough to thrive in dry, gravelly soil. Pinching Pinching is a simple method of promoting compact, sturdy, bushy growth on new sedum plants. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. Pinching causes a slight delay in blooming, but the result will be more blooms and healthier plants. Pruning While it seems extreme, a good pruning is the best solution for a tall, lanky sedum. If your plants are beginning to look tipsy in late spring or early summer, use your garden shears or clippers to cut the plants to a height of about 6 to 8 inches. The plants may initially look like victims of a bad haircut, but they will soon rebound and look better than ever. Pruning can safely be done every year if needed and is especially effective for sedums grown in shade. Division Division is the best fix for an older sedum, especially if the center of the plant looks like it's dying down and becoming woody and unattractive. To divide sedum, dig up the entire plant. Pull the plant apart into smaller plants, each with several healthy roots. If a plant is too large to dig, use a trowel or shovel to cut a section from the side of the plant. Division is a good opportunity to move the sedum to a spot in full sunlight and to discard old, woody sections. To keep sedum healthy, get in the habit of routinely dividing the plant every other year. [图片]Tips Water sedum sparingly; wet soil may cause sedum to rot and die. In most parts of the country, sedum thrives with no supplemental irrigation but benefits from an occasional light watering during long periods of hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize sedum; fertilizer contributes to rich soil, which can cause floppiness and weak growth.

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