动态第155页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年07月30日

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Miss Chen

2018年07月30日

Description: This plant is a winter or spring annual about 4-16" tall that sometimes branches from the base, forming a tuft of leafy stems. Each erect to ascending stem is light green to pale purplish green, terete, and evenly glandular-pubescent. Several pairs of opposite leaves occur along each stem; sometimes tufts of smaller leaves develop from the axils of the lower opposite leaves. These leaves are up to 1" long and 1/5" (5 mm.) across; they are linear, linear-oblong, or oblong, and sessile against their stems. Each leaf is hairless on the upper surface with a single prominent vein; the lower surface is also hairless, except for some glandular hairs along the central vein. The leaf margins are smooth and ciliate. Each stem terminates in a corymb (flat-headed cluster) or compound corymb of flowers. The peduncle of each corymb is similar to the stem, except that it has a pair of leafy bracts at its base; it can be several inches long. Compound corymbs have branched ascending peduncles. Each flower is up to ¼" across; it has 5 white petals, 5 green sepals, 10 stamens, and 3 tiny white styles at the apex of the light green ovary. The petals are cleft at their tips, while the sepals are glandular-pubescent. The pedicel of each flower is up to ½" long and glandular-pubescent. The leafy bracts are linear-lanceolate to ovate, glandular-pubescent on their undersides, and slightly membranous along their margins at maturity; they are smaller in size than the leaves (½" long or less). The blooming period occurs during the late spring and lasts about 3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a cylindrical seed capsule that is up to 10 mm. (3/8") long. At maturity, this seed capsule becomes membranous and open at its apex; there are 6 small teeth along its upper rim. There are numerous small seeds within each capsule; each seed is pale brown, minutely warty, ovoid-obovoid in shape, and somewhat flattened. The root system consists of a slender branching taproot with fine fibrous roots. This plant spreads by reseeding itself and occasionally forms colonies. [图片]Cultivation: Typical growing conditions consist of full sunlight and average levels of moisture. Three-styled Chickweed adapts readily to loam or clay-loam soil; sandy or gravelly soil may be tolerated as well. Because this chickweed is taller and more erect than most, regular mowing may inhibit its spread. Range & Habitat: The adventive Three-Styled Chickweed is a rare weed in Illinois; it has been observed in only a few counties of south-central and east-central Illinois (see Distribution Map). This species is native to southern Europe and parts of Asia. The earliest collection of this species in the United States occurred in the state of Washington during the 1960's. Since that time, it has been observed in several other states (both eastern & western) and appears to be spreading. Habitats include disturbed areas with low grassy or weedy vegetation and the upper slopes of ditches. Recent construction activity mayClose-up of Flower have introduced this species to Champaign County in Illinois. Faunal Associations: This information applies to chickweeds, both native and introduced, that are typically found in sunny meadows and similar habitats. The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract small bees (Halictid & others) and flies (Syrphid & others). The caterpillars of the moths Agrostis venerabilis (Venerable Dart), Haematopis grataria (Chickweed Geometer), and Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave) feed on chickweeds. Among vertebrate animals, the seeds are a source of food for the Mourning Dove and various sparrows, while the foliage is occasionally eaten by the Cottontail Rabbit. Photographic Location: The upper slope of a drainage ditch in Urbana, Illinois. If the photograph of the flower close-up is examined closely, it is possible to see the 3 tiny white styles; they are surrounded by the yellow anthers of the stamens. [图片]Comments: Among Cerastium spp. (Mouse-Eared Chickweeds), this chickweed is highly unusual because its flowers have 3 styles, rather than 5 styles. This characteristic is more typical of Stellaria spp. (Chickweeds). However, other characteristics of its flowers (e.g., the presence of 10 stamens & the shape of its petals) and the even pubescence of its stems are more typical of the Mouse-Eared Chickweeds. Three-Styled Chickweed is a little taller than most of these species and its leaves are more slender. Otherwise, it is rather ordinary looking. Another common name is Doubtful Chickweed, which is derived from the scientific name.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月30日

Description: This plant is an annual about 3-8" tall that branches occasionally, and it is more or less erect. The stems, leaves, and calyx of the flowers are greyish green and hairless. The slender stems are irregularly angular. The opposite leaves are up to 1" long and ¾" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. They are variably shaped, smooth along the margins, and sessile or slightly clasping the stems. The lower leaves are ovoid or ovate with blunt tips, while the upper leaves are often lanceolate or oblong. Their texture is slightly fleshy and succulent. There is no tuft of basal leaves at the base of the plant. The upper stems terminate in small cymes or flat-headed panicles of flowers; some cymes of flowers may be produced from the axils of the upper leaves as well. Each flower has a narrow tubular corolla that is about ½" long; at its apex, this corolla divides into 5 spreading lobes up to ¼" across. These petal-like lobes are narrow and pink. At the base of the flower, there is a tubular calyx with 5 lobes that are very narrow and long. These calyx lobes are appressed against the base of the tubular corolla and at least half its length (sometimes they are nearly as long as the corolla). At the narrow throat of the flower, there are several exserted stamens with yellow anthers. Each flower has a short pedicel at least 1/8" long. The blooming period occurs during the summer and early fall and lasts about 2-3 months. As older flowers begin to fade away, the area that is enclosed by the lobes of their calyxes begins to swell until ovoid seed capsules are formed. Each seed capsule is open at the top and has 5 recurved teeth along its upper rim. Each of these capsules contains several tiny seeds that can be blown about by the wind or float on water. The root system consists of shallow fibrous roots. This plant spreads by reseeding itself. Cultivation: Typical growing conditions are full sun and a moist soil that contains loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. A limy soil and occasional flooding are tolerated. Range & Habitat: Branching Centaury is an uncommon plant that is originally from Europe. It occurs primarily in a few counties in NE Illinois and does not appear to be spreading (see Distribution Map). The webmaster recently found a small colony of plants growing in Champaign County, Illinois. Habitats include moist depressions in grassy areas along roads and railroads. So far, this species is restricted to highly disturbed habitats. Faunal Associations: Little information about floral-faunal relationships is available for this species. The structure of the flowers suggests that long-tongued bees, small butterflies, and skippers occasionally pollinate the flowers. One likely candidate is the butterfly Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), which is originally from Europe. The foliage of plants in the Gentian family is usually bitter and unattractive to most herbivores, although rabbits may nibble on the stems and leaves of Branching Centaury occasionally. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Photographic Location: A moist grassy depression that was located a short distance away from a railroad in Urbana, Illinois. This area was mowed irregularly and prone to temporary flooding. [图片]Comments: Branching Centaury is a small plant with delicate pink flowers. It has many characteristics in common with members of the Pink family (Caryophyllaceae), but it differs in having a calyx with long slender lobes that are at least half the length of the tubular corolla. According to official records, this is the only Centaurium sp. that has naturalized in Illinois. Some south-central and southwestern states have native Centaurium spp., but none of them have been observed in Illinois. These native species tend to have somewhat larger flowers and more narrow lower leaves. A closely related species from Europe, the biennial Centaurium erythraea (Forking Centaury), has been observed in Indiana and may occur somewhere in Illinois. The inflorescence of this latter species is less flat-headed and more vertical, while its flowers have shorter calyx lobes and slightly longer corolla lobes. The Centaurium spp. differ from the closely related Sabatia spp. (Rose Pinks) by having smaller flowers that are longer than they are across; they are always narrowly tubular at the base. The flowers of Rose Pinks have more open corollas with larger petal-like lobes, while the lobes of their calyxes are more spreading.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月30日

Description: This herbaceous plant is a summer annual (in Illinois) that forms a low rosette during the spring, but by summer it bolts to become 1-4' tall. A typical plant is unbranched below and branched above with ascending lateral stems. The stems are light green to light yellowish tan, terete, glabrous, and stiff. Alternate leaves occur at intervals along these stems. These leaves are 2-6" long, ½-2" across, and stiff; they are lanceolate, lanceolate-oblong, ovate, or ovate-oblong in shape. The leaf bases are sessile or they clasp the stems. Leaf margins are mostly smooth (entire) with scattered yellow spines, although lower leaf margins are sometimes spineless and slightly dentate (although in some uncommon cultivars, all leaves may be spineless). Both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves are dark green and glabrous; minute pubescence may occur along the lower surfaces of the central leaf veins. Each upper stem terminates in 1-5 flowerheads. The flowerheads of each branch are usually clustered together on short peduncles. Each flowerhead is ¾-1½" across (excluding the outer phyllaries), consisting of 20-100 disk florets. These florets are ¾-1" in length, although their bases are hidden from view. The corollas of these florets are yellow to red (rarely white), narrowly cylindrical below, and 5-lobed above; these lobes are linear in shape and spreading. The styles are strongly exerted from the corollas. Around the base of the flowerhead, there are several outer phyllaries (floral bracts) up to 1½" long that are widely spreading and stiff; they are elliptic or lanceolate in shape, while their margins are smooth (entire) with scattered yellow spines. The surfaces of these outer bracts are dark green and glabrous. The inner phyllaries are mostly erect and appressed together; they are light green, ovate or lanceolate in shape, and covered with appressed hairs. The margins of the inner phyllaries are mostly smooth (entire) and ciliate, although their tips are spiny. However, in some uncommon cultivars, both outer and inner phyllaries are spineless. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring into the fall (in Illinois), lasting about 1-3 months. Afterwards, fertile florets are replaced by achenes. The achenes are 6-8 mm. long, white or light brown, oblanceoloid in shape, bluntly 4-angled, and often longitudinally striped. Usually the apices of these achenes lack tufts of hair, although in some uncommon cultivars short stiff bristles are present. The root system consists of a stout taproot up to 3-4' long and some lateral roots. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself. [图片]Cultivation: Safflower adapts to full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and various kinds of soil, including those that contain loam, sandy loam, or clay-loam. It prefers cool to warm temperatures while in the rosette stage, and warm to hot temperatures after it bolts (a warm-temperate zone with long summer days, a long growing season, and adequate rainfall prior to the blooming period). In areas with high humidity or cool weather during the summer, this plant is vulnerable to a variety of fungal disease organisms. Because of the deep taproot, resistance to heat and drought is excellent. Range & Habitat: The non-native Safflower uncommonly naturalizes in Illinois, occurring in Champaign County (see Distribution Map). However, the presence of this species within the state is probably under-reported. Because of its preference for areas with relatively low humidity, Safflower is cultivated primarily in the western half of the United States, where it more frequently naturalizes. In the eastern half of the United States (including Illinois), naturalized plants are typically found around bird feeders as Safflower is sometimes used as a source of bird seed. Naturalized plants can occur after birds inadvertently drop the seeds, or spill the seeds from a bird feeder. As a result, typically habitats in Illinois are unmowed areas around bird feeders, including vegetable gardens, flowerbeds, open spaces near shrubbery, and edges of yards. However, these naturalized plants rarely persist from one year to the next. Safflower was introduced into the United States during the early 20th century as an agricultural crop (as a source of vegetable oil and a dye for clothing or food). This plant is probably native to the eastern Mediterranean region and parts of southern and central Asia, where it has been cultivated for thousands of years. [图片]Faunal Associations: Little specific information is available for the floral-faunal relationships of Safflower in North America. The flowers are cross-pollinated by bumblebees, honeybees, other long-tongued bees, and probably other insects with long mouth parts (e.g., butterflies & skippers). However, in the absence of cross-pollination, the flowers are self-fertile. Seed bugs (Lygus), aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, wireworms, and the larvae of some moths are reported to feed destructively on Safflower. Among vertebrate animals, some songbirds (e.g., Cardinals) and probably upland gamebrids feed on the seeds, which are sometimes used as a source of food in bird feeders. Prior to the blooming period, the foliage of Safflower is reportedly edible to sheep and, to a lesser extent, cattle. The suitability of the foliage as a source of forage depends in part on its level of spininess; this varies with different cultivars. Photographic Location: A mulched bed near some shrubbery at the Anita Purves Nature Center in Urbana, Illinois. [图片]Comments: Safflower is grown primarily as an agricultural crop in the western half of the United States and other parts of the world. The flowerheads are a source of red and yellow dyes for clothing and food (now largely replaced by synthetic dyes), while vegetable oil is derived from its seeds. Safflower oil is high in oleic and linoleic fatty acids, and it is used as a source for cooking oil, salad oil, industrial oil, biodiesel fuel, margarine, soap, cosmetics, oil-based paints, and varnishes. Roasted or fried hulled seeds are edible to humans, while unhulled raw seeds are used as a source of food for birds. Young foliage and meal from processed seeds are edible to livestock (e.g., cattle & sheep). The primary advantage of Safflower over other agricultural crops is its ability to adapt to hot dry climates. Because of the spines on its foliage and floral bracts, Safflower resembles thistles (Cirsium spp., Carduus spp.), but the corollas of its flowerheads are yellow to red, rather than pink or purple. Unlike thistles, the achenes of Safflower lack tufts of hair at their apices, except for some uncommon cultivars that have achenes with short bristles. In addition, the widely spreading and spiny floral bracts of Safflower have a distinctive appearance.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月30日

Description: This herbaceous plant is either a biennial or summer annual (usually the former). It consists initially of a rosette of basal leaves. These basal leaves are 4-12" long and 1¼-4" across; they are lanceolate-pinnatifid or elliptic-pinnatifid with occasional secondary lobes. The margins of these leaves have white to golden yellow spines; larger spines occur at the tips of the primary and secondary lobes, while smaller spines occur along their sides and sinuses. The upper surfaces of the basal leaves are medium green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are light to medium green and mostly glabrous, except for some short pubescence along the midveins. The petioles of these basal leaves are short and broadly winged. Later, this plant bolts, becoming 1½-6' tall and either unbranched or branched. The lower stem (or stems) tends to be light green and nearly glabrous toward the bottom, becoming increasingly white-tomentose above (white hairs that are appressed and woolly). In addition, the stems are terete and relatively stout; they lack spines, except where extensions of the leaf margins are decurrent. Alternate leaves occur along these stems, becoming gradually smaller as they ascend; they are 2-6" long and ½-1½" across. Alternate leaves are narrowly pinnatifid-lanceolate or narrowly pinnatifid-elliptic in shape. Compared to the lobes of basal leaves, the lobes of alternate leaves are more shallow, although the tips of these latter lobes are still spined. Alternate leaves are sessile; their margins have decurrent extensions along the stems, where they are spiny. The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads about 1-3" across on long erect peduncles (up to 2' long). These peduncles are terete, stout, and white-tomentose; they are largely naked, except for widely-spaced leafy bracts. The flowerheads often nod to one side. Each flowerhead has 100-1000 disk florets that are narrowly cylindrical below, while above they divide into linear lobes (5 lobes per floret). The corollas of these florets are pink to purplish pink (rarely white); the styles of these florets are strongly exerted. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are relatively large phyllaries in several series. These phyllaries are deltate-ovate in shape; outer phyllaries are ascending, widely spreading, or descending; sometimes they are also recurved. The tips of the phyllaries are stiff and spiny. Immature flowerheads have green phyllaries, but they later become purplish. The blooming period occurs from early summer into the fall, lasting 1-4 months. The flowerheads are fragrant. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes (4-5 mm. in length) with large tufts of hair. These achenes are bullet-shaped, slightly flattened, and ribbed. The primary hairs that are above these achenes have minute lateral hairs (may require 10x magnification to see). The achenes are distributed primarily by the wind. The root system develops a fleshy taproot. Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and calcareous soil that is derived from either limestone or sand. However, Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) will adapt to almost any soil that is not extremely acidic. The size of individual plants can vary considerably depending on soil fertility and moisture levels. This thistle can reseed itself aggressively and become invasive. The seeds can remain viable for 3 or more years. Range & Habitat: The non-native Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map), and it is probably still spreading within the state. This thistle is native to Eurasia and northern Africa; it was accidentally introduced into North America during the 19th century, possibly from dumped ship ballast along the east coast. In Illinois and other parts of North America, habitats include savannas, pastures, fallow fields, roadsides, areas along railroads, waste areas, and gardens or yards that use transported soil containing the seeds of this thistle. Nodding Thistle is particularly common in areas with calcareous sand (e.g., near major lakes) and limestone-derived soil. Disturbed areas are strongly preferred. [图片]Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are cross-pollinated primarily by bumblebees and other long-tongued bees, butterflies, and skippers. In the absence of cross-pollination, the florets of the flowerheads are self-fertile. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Because Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is regarded as invasive in some parts of North America, various insects have been introduced from abroad to function as biocontrol agents. These species include: Rhinocyllus conicus (Thistlehead Weevil), whose larvae feed on the flowerheads; Trichosirocalus horridus (Thistle Crown Weevil), whose larvae feed on the growing points of rosettes and young shoots; Cheilosa corydon (Thistle Crown Fly), whose larvae burrow into shoots; Cassida rubiginosa (Thistle Tortoise Beetle), whose larvae and adults feed on leaves; and Psylliodes chalcomerus (Musk Thistle Leaf Beetle), whose larvae bore through stems, while the adults feed on leaves. Other insect feeders include Platyptilia carduidactylus (Artichoke Plume Moth) and Brachycaudus cardui (Thistle Aphid). The seeds of this thistle are eaten by a songbird, the Eastern Goldfinch, and the tufted hairs of its seeds are used in the construction of this bird's nests. Because of the spiny foliage, Nodding Thistle is rarely eaten by mammalian herbivores. However, sometimes cattle, sheep, and goats will eat the flowerheads or seedheads. It is unclear to what extent the seeds can survive passage in the digestive tracts of these animals, and thus their role in seed dispersal is still unclear. [图片]Photographic Location: The photographed plant was cultivated in the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois. However, this plant was found originally in the yard of the webmaster's apartment complex, where it had been transported in contaminated soil that was purchased from a local garden center. Comments: Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) has very showy and fragrant flowerheads, while its foliage is quite spiny. Until the nodding flowerheads are produced, it can be difficult to distinguish from other thistles. Like the Eurasian Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare), Nodding Thistle can be distinguished from native thistles by the spines on its stems (as derived from the decurrent margins of its leaves). It can be distinguished from the Bull Thistle by differences in the shape, size, and color of their respective phyllaries (floral bracts). The phyllaries of Nodding Thistle are larger in size, more broad at their bases, and become purple-colored when the flowerheads bloom; the phyllaries of Bull Thistle remain green at this time. In addition, the flowerheads of Nodding Thistle are usually more broad than those of Bull Thistle. Thistle species in the Carduus genus differ from thistle species in the Cirsium genus by the structure of the tufted hairs above their seeds. The tufted hairs of Carduus spp. (Musk Thistles) have barbed hairs from minute lateral hairs, while the tufted hairs of Cirsium spp. (Thistles) are more plumose (feathery) from longer lateral hairs. This is why Carduus nutans is sometimes referred to as the 'Plumeless Thistle,' even though its seeds have tufts of hair.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月29日

Iris blooms make every ounce of care worth the effort. They offer such a wide range of colors and shape of flower that planting irises can be quite the gardening adventure. Most irises are surprisingly low-maintenance during the growing season, but all irises that grow in climates with cold winters will benefit from some form of winter protection. [图片]Preparing for Winter While irises are low-maintenance, they require some minor care before winter sets in, if they are expected to provide those same big blooms next year. End-of-season care is also good for the health of the plant, providing an opportunity to inspect the iris bed in search of disease, dying plants or plants that need to be divided. After flowering, trim flower stalks as close to the ground as possible. This will give the plant one less part to worry about as its stores energy for winter. It's important to cut back the foliage or remove it once it's faded to yellow or brown. Cut it back to 6 inches in the fall while it's still green or wait until it's yellow or brown. Mulch Mulch is one of the simplest, most effective ways to protect the iris root system during frigid winter temperatures. Newly planted irises and established iris beds both benefit from a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots. Select pine needles, straw, leaves, compost or even just additional soil from the garden to make a 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant, recommends the University of Minnesota Extension. Remove some of the mulch from around the new plants in spring as soon as possible--such as when the snow begins to melt--and the rest of the mulch once the garden has dried out. Dividing Irises If established irises need to be divided, do so in midsummer, about four to six weeks after all blooms have faded. The plants need time to establish a root system before the winter, reports the North Carolina State University Extension. Those irises will probably put up new growth before winter sets in, but their root systems won't be strong enough to resist freeze/thaw cycles that may occur during the winter and early spring. Mulch newly divided irises in late fall. [图片]Freeze/Thaw Cycles Freeze/thaw cycles can wreak havoc on bulbs and tubers that overwinter in the garden. During these cycles, the already frozen ground thaws briefly, then freezes again, causing bulbs and tubers--irises, included--to be literally thrown from their beds. Of course, they can't survive this type of exposure, so a thick layer of mulch will help protect them.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月29日

Philodendron is a genus of evergreen tropical plants most commonly kept as conservatory or house plants. Pruning requirements for tropical plants, including philodendrons, are minimal except for when leaves die back due to age or damage. Two main types of philodendron growth forms exist: trailing, also known as vining, and clumping, also called self-heading. Prune philodendrons sparingly when needed to preserve their natural form. Self-Heading Philodendron Step 1 Prune out individual leaves that have died or become discolored or diseased. Sever the leaf at the base of the stem down to the crown of the plant just above the soil line. [图片]Step 2 Reduce the size or spread of the plants by removing the longest, oldest and most outsize leaves and stems down to the crown. Distribute these cuts evenly throughout the plant to maintain the natural form. Step 3 Remove any stems that have lost their leaves. Sever the stem stump down to the crown of the plant, just above the soil line. Vining Philodendron Step 1 Snip off any dead, discolored, diseased or otherwise unsightly leaves that appear on the vines. Remove either an individual leaf or whole sections of vine as needed to keep the plant looking green and tidy. Step 2 Cut back defoliated vines to just below a healthy leaf because the bare vines will likely not regenerate new growth once lost. Step 3 Prune away leaves on the vines that have become brown or yellow due to over-watering or lack of sufficient sunlight. Once this occurs, the leaves will not be restored to a deep green hue. Remove the leaves at the base of the stem. If the vine tip or a section of vine is damaged, cut back to a healthy green leaf node just above the damaged tissues. [图片]Step 4 Cut back the tips of the vines as desired to bring the plant back within preferred bounds and reduce size and spread.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月29日

If you enjoy growing tropical plants with colorful flowers, the plumeria plant (Plumeris spp.) could be an excellent choice for your garden or as a small indoor tree. Also called the frangipani or temple tree, the plant grows outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. You can help keep a plumeria tree in good shape and promote plenty of flowers by pruning it regularly. [图片]The Best Method A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol. Timing You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location. The Overall Plan If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings. [图片]After Pruning You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月29日

Long-lived, undemanding in care, and suitable for spreading groundcovers in woodlands and naturalistic gardens, wild geraniums are also known as cranesbills (Geranium spp.). Hundreds of species grow naturally across temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere. Deep, slender taproots or rhizome stem-roots create clumping plants with lobed leaves that are reminiscent of both maples and ferns. Wild geranium's most ornamental feature is the five-petaled flowers in spring or early summer that are white, blue, violet, lavender or any shade of pink. Do not confuse them with florist geraniums (Pelargonium spp.). [图片]00:49 Post-Flowering Maintenance Once wild geraniums finishing their first blooming display in late spring or early summer, cut back the entire plants to 3 or 4 inches tall to expose the tiny crown of leaves nestled in the lower leaf stems. Do not cut back the flower stems or entire plants if you want seeds to form and scatter in a newly planted area. The seeds will scatter naturally and lead to more plants next spring. In established gardens, trimming away the old flower stems limits the volunteer, weedy seedlings that may pop up all over the place. Trimming Tip Clipping back of old flower stems does improve the look of wild geraniums the rest of summer and into fall before frost. Use care when trimming the stems, as you can inadvertently cut off the frilly foliage stems if you do not grasp each flower stem before cutting. In expansive sweeps of wild geraniums in a woodland setting, trimming isn't practical, unless a power weed trimmer is used. Only focus hand-trimming efforts on plants in the more formal perennial border. Rejuvenation In regions with long, hot summers, some gardeners will cut back old, tattered and dead leaves in early to midsummer to rejuvenate. Wild geraniums tend to cease flowering in the hottest part of summer anyways, so cutting back old leaves to the base of plants -- just above the small lower rosette of young leaves -- allows the plants to produce lush, green plants with more blossoms in late summer and early fall. In milder winter regions, the foliage of some evergreen species will then often bronze or attain purplish hues and remain attractive if not matted down and suffocated by snow. [图片]Trimming Insight If your patch of wild geraniums grows in an un-irrigated section of the landscape, or the soil isn't particularly moist and rich in organic matter on its own, cutting back the plants after the first flowering may not prove best. Only cut back plants if the soil will be evenly moist during the hottest part of summer. Postpone or cancel the plant trimming during years with drought, as the loss of tissues and dry soil can weaken or kill the perennial's roots. In dry years, letting flowers go to seed may ensure wild geraniums grow again next year once the drought ends.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月29日

The process of deadheading -- or removing the wilted blooms from a flowering plant -- focuses the plant's energy into healthy root and leaf growth instead of seed production. In some plants, it also encourages the plants to bloom again. The various coneflower species respond well to deadheading, but there are also good reasons for not deadheading coneflowers. Coneflower Blooms Coneflowers all belong to the plant family, Asteraceae, and the blooms are similar enough they can all be deadheaded the same way, or left on the plant for the same reasons. Not every type of coneflower blooms at the same time, so be on the lookout throughout the summer and fall to deadhead in a timely manner. [图片]The common name "coneflower" applies to several genera, including Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Ratibida. All have a cone-shaped flower center, though plants in the Echinacea genus are the ones most often referred to as "coneflowers." Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, has purple-pink petals around an orange center. It grows 2 to 5 feet tall, and blooms all summer Yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall. It blooms all summer, and has thin yellow petals around a brown center. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, is a sturdy perennial that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms midsummer through fall. The daisylike yellow flowers have a black center. Gray-head coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 8, grows 3 to 5 feet tall and blooms in the summer. It has thin yellow flower petals that fold back from a 1-inch gray center. Mexican hat plant (Ratibida columnifera), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, is also called long-headed coneflower because the flower center can reach 2 inches high. It grows 1 to 3 feet tall, has yellow flower petals and blooms in the summer and early fall. Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms summer through fall. It has orange-yellow flowers with a black center. Reasons to Deadhead Deadheading coneflowers can encourage rebloom. Purple coneflower and yellow coneflower will rebloom without deadheading, but black-eyed Susan must be deadheaded if you want reliable repeat blooming all summer and into fall. [图片]Removing spent blooms also prevents self-seeding. If you don't want the plants to spread throughout the garden, make sure you deadhead plants before the seed heads ripen. Removing the flowers as soon as they are finished blooming also keeps the garden looking neat and tidy. Leaving the Seeds If you decide not to deadhead coneflowers, the seeds will attract birds to the garden. The seeds that birds don't eat fall to the ground and easily sprout to create more plants. Self-seeding can result in a large number of seedlings in the spring, which will start blooming after about two years. The flower center of the coneflower is where seeds develop. After the petals fall off, these seed heads often remain upright in the garden throughout all or part of the winter. This provides winter interest in the garden in the form of dark-colored cone-shaped seed heads, and birds that are attracted to the seeds.

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