动态第163页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年07月13日

Weeds are the bane of every gardener. They seem to flourish with no care or support while the plants the gardeners want require attention almost daily. Weeds steal water, nutrients, sunlight and space from vegetable plants and jeopardize the viability of the garden. Gardeners must take defensive measures to stop and control weeds to enjoy a plentiful harvest of vegetables. [图片]Cultivation Method Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots. The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway. While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand. The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing. Mulching Method Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants. Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings. However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper. [图片]Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants. Vinegar Method Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle. Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月12日

Eggplants (Solanum melongena) are not exactly fuss-free. They require plenty of sun, supplemental feeding and regular watering. Eggplants also get their share of pests. Although eggplants potentially grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, most people treat the heat-loving vegetables as annuals. To keep these high-maintenance Mediterranean favorites happy, grow them near other plants that either have the same needs, or which enhance the growing conditions for eggplants. [图片]Nourishing Neighbors Eggplants thrive on nitrogen, often requiring extra fertilizer at the height of their growing season. Planting eggplants in the same beds as annual legumes benefits the eggplants because peas (Pisum sativum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) pull nitrogen from the atmosphere, then fix it into the surrounding soil. If you grow pole peas or pole beans, set the eggplants in front of the trellised legumes so the eggplants won't be be shaded. If you grow bush peas and beans, alternate rows of the eggplants with beans or peas, or alternate the plants within rows. Pest Patrol Bush green beans also repel one of the eggplant's pests, the Colorado potato beetle. The perennial herb, French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus "Sativa"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, helps protect eggplants from a broad range of pests. To deter garden moths from damaging eggplants, grow thyme (Thymus vulgaris), a herb that's perennial in USDA zones 5 through 9. Mexican marigold (Tagetes minuta), an annual flower, repels beetles from the eggplant patch. Marigolds are toxic to beans, so choose only beans or marigolds as an eggplant companion -- not both. Family Affair A member of the nightshade family, the eggplant grows well with hot and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum), which are also nightshade plants. Peppers and eggplants have the same growing needs -- full sun, regular watering and rich soil -- while also contending with the same pests and diseases. Grow them in alternate rows, or stagger them within rows. Some people also interplant eggplants with tomatoes, which are nightshade family members with similar growing needs. If you do so,you'll need to take tomatoes' height into account and make sure the tomato plants don't shade the eggplants. [图片]Good Roommates In some cases, the best garden bed companions are the ones whose spacing and sun needs allow them to be tucked between bushy eggplants. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and eggplant are often listed as having a positive effect on on another. Whether there is a scientific reason for this is unclear, but certainly spinach, a cool-weather crop, appreciates the shade cast by eggplant during the dog days of summer. Earlier in the season, younger eggplants won't be tall enough to block sun when the spinach needs it most.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月12日

Potatoes are low-maintenance vegetables that you can grow in your home garden and that produce an abundant harvest. Grow potatoes from seed potatoes, which are small potatoes or pieces of larger ones. Pre-sprouting them before planting, also called chitting, ensures the seed potatoes are ready and able to produce plants. Plant these sprouted potatoes properly; otherwise, they rot in the ground instead of becoming healthy and productive plants. [图片]Step 1 Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed. Step 2 Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole. Step 3 Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom. Step 4 Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods. [图片]Step 5 Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月12日

If you enjoy growing vegetables, then don't overlook snow peas (Pisum sativum var. saccharatum) and snap peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon). These peas don't produce ordinary, round, green peas you'll find in cans at the grocery store. Instead, they both offer special kinds of peas with edible pea pods that have a crunchy texture and slightly sweet flavor, with snap peas being a bit sweeter. Snow peas and snap peas share many similarities, but each has a unique and clearly distinguishable pod. These varieties are also harvested at different maturity levels. Both plants grow as annuals in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. [图片]Dissimilar Pods Although snow peas and snap peas both have edible pea pods, their pods are very different. The snow pea pod is especially large, up to 5 inches long. It is broad, flat and very thin. Snow pea pods are also translucent, allowing you to see light through them. These peas taste best when picked young, before the peas inside them produce visible bulges along the back of the pod. The flatter the pod the better. Snap peas, in contrast, produce narrow, oval-shaped pods. These pods are thick, fleshy and opaque. You can't see the peas inside snap pea pods because the pod itself is so thick. Despite this fleshy cocoon, snap peas remain quite crisp and produce an audible snap when broken in half. This is how the plant got its name. The best time to pick snap peas is when the pods are full-size and filled with young but well-developed peas. Growth Supports Like all pea varieties, snap and snow pea plants grow as trailing vines that have tendrils capable of attaching to a support. Some snow pea varieties have shorter vines than those of snap peas and can grow well without any support. For example, the snow pea cultivar "Oregon Sugar Pod II" has vines that are only about 28 inches long or tall, while the cultivar "Snowbird" has even shorter vines, about 18 inches. Snap pea vines, however, are tall and almost always require the support of a fence or trellis. If necessary, you can make your own simple support by stringing stiff wire between two stakes in the ground. Climate Both snow and snap peas are cool-season crops, thriving during cool spring or fall weather. Plant either type early in spring, as soon as the soil becomes workable, or in early fall while time remains for a crop before winter arrives. Both plants are frost-resistant and will likely survive until the first killing frost. Snap peas also resist a short hot spell well, growing a bit faster in warm temperatures but still producing a sweet, crunchy crop. Because snow peas need picking before the peas grow inside the pods, however, they're a bit more sensitive than snap peas to heat. If a heat wave lasts more than one or two days, your peas may mature a bit too rapidly. If they do, the peas may be a bit tougher than normal but will still have a pleasant taste. [图片]Soil and Water Snow and snap peas both grow in any type of garden soil, provided it is well-drained. They need even moisture to set a good crop and do best with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Provide supplemental water during dry spells, but avoid overhead watering to lower the risk of fungal disorders. Instead, use a soaker hose or drip-irrigation system. Adding a 3-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and keeps down weeds that compete with the pear for moisture and soil nutrients. Don't allow the mulch to touch the plant stems.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月12日

Avocados originated in Mexico and Central America. The first records of avocados were discovered in Aztec writings, and avocado seeds were discovered buried inside Aztec cities along with other rubble. (The modern name "avocado" actually comes from the Aztec word "ahuacati," meaning testicles, which described how the avocado fruit looked hanging on the tree.) Avocados are now grown in warm and tropical climates around the world. Preferred Climate [图片]The preferred climate and zone for avocados is a climate with warm temperatures year-round. The tree is a tropical plant and does not like frost or temperatures under 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Avocado trees prefer high humidity of 60 to 80 percent. They can also grow in dryer climates (with no less than 40 percent humidity), but more problems may occur with the fruit or tree. The tree needs a high level of moisture and plenty of nutrients in the soil. Mexico, Central and South America [图片]Mexico, Central America, and some regions of South America have the frost-free climate, high water quality and rich soil necessary to keep avocados healthy. About half of all avocados sold in the United States come from Mexico, with Indonesia and the USA growing an additional third. The rest of Central America and South America make the rest of the percentage of avocados grown for U.S. import. United States [图片]It is possible to grow avocados in the United States in certain conditions. The best growing zones for avocado trees are U.S. hardiness zones 9 to 11. These zones are frost-free and have relatively even climates. All areas in these zones may not be suitable, however, because avocado trees need moisture and rich soil. Many of the warmer zones in the United States are too dry for avocado growing. Australia [图片]Australia has a large avocado-growing industry, with over 70 varieties grown all over the country. Avocado trees were first introduced to Australia in 1840. The seeds were planted in the royal garden, and it was determined that Australia was an ideal growing climate for avocados. As of 2010, Australia does not export its avocados to any other country, although a plan to export avocados to New Zealand and Asia is in development. Growing Latitudes [图片]Latitudes at the 0 degree latitudinal mark (right around the equator) grow the healthiest avocados. However, avocado trees can grow between the latitudes of 30 degrees north to 35 degrees south—as far north as Maryland and as far south as South Africa and Australia.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月12日

Zucchini, a summer squash, is an abundant producer in the home vegetable garden. Zucchinis ripen from midsummer until fall, continually blooming and producing until cold weather kills off the plant. Frequent harvesting encourages further fruit set on the plants, so pick the ripe ones daily during the height of the season. Zucchinis left too long on the plant become tough and woody, and are no longer fit for the kitchen. Harvesting the zucchinis at the proper time ensures they are also at their peak of flavor. [图片]Step 1 Inspect the plant for zucchinis that have reached 6 to 8 inches in length, as this is the size when most varieties begin ripening. Harvest vegetables that have glossy skin and are firm, but that can still be dented with a fingernail. Step 2 Grasp the ripe zucchini in one hand. Cut the stem ½ inch up from the zucchini with a sharp knife. Avoid pulling on the zucchini, as this can damage both the vegetable and the plant. [图片]Step 3 Check the plant daily once zucchinis begin reaching maturity. Harvest the vegetables as soon as they reach maturity.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月11日

Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2-6' tall and unbranched, except sometimes toward the apex, where the flowers occur. The central stem is relative stout, pale green, terete, and usually short-pubescent (less often glabrous). The opposite leaves are up to 8" long and 3½" wide, broadly oblong in shape, and smooth along their margins. The upper leaf surface is pale-medium to dark green and hairless above, while the lower leaf surface is densely covered with woolly hairs that are very short. There is a prominent central vein along the length of each leaf, and finer side veins that radiate outward toward the smooth margins. When either the central stem or leaves are torn, a milky sap oozes out that has variable toxicity in the form of cardiac glycosides. Umbels of flowers, each about 2½-4" across, emerge from the axils of the upper leaves. These flowers are quite fragrant, with a scent resembling violets or pansies, and they range in color from faded light pink to reddish purple. Each flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 reflexed petals and 5 raised hoods with curved horns. The hoods are more light-colored than the petals. The pedicels of the flowers are light green to pale red and hairy. The blooming period lasts about 1-1½ months from early to mid-summer. The seedpods (follicles) are 3-4" long, broadly lanceoloid, and covered with soft prickles and short woolly hairs. At maturity, each seedpod split along one side to release numerous seeds that have large tufts of white hair. Dispersion of seed is by wind. The root system has long creeping rhizomes, promoting the vegetative spread of this plant. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full sun, rich loamy soil, and mesic conditions, but this robust plant can tolerate a variety of situations, including partial sun and a high clay or sand content in the soil. Under ideal conditions, Common Milkweed can become 6' tall and spread aggressively, but it is more typically about 3-4' tall. This plant is very easy to grow once it becomes established. Range & Habitat: The native Common Milkweed occurs in every county of Illinois and it is quite common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, sand dunes along lake shores, thickets, woodland borders, fields and pastures, abandoned fields, vacant lots, fence rows, and areas along railroads and roadsides. This plant is a colonizer of disturbed areas in both natural and developed habitats. [图片]Faunal Associations: The flowers are very popular with many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued bees, wasps, flies, skippers, and butterflies, which seek nectar. Other insect visitors include short-tongued bees, various milkweed plant bugs, and moths, including Sphinx moths. Among these, the larger butterflies, predatory wasps, and long-tongued bees are more likely to remove the pollinia from the flowers. Some of the smaller insects can have their legs entrapped by the flowers and die. Common Milkweed doesn't produce fertile seeds without cross-pollination. The caterpillars of Danaus plexippes (Monarch Butterfly) feed on the foliage, as do the caterpillars of a few moths, including Enchaetes egle (Milkweed Tiger Moth), Cycnia inopinatus (Unexpected Cycnia), and Cycnia tenera (Delicate Cycnia). Less common insects feeding on this plant include Neacoryphus bicrucis (Seed Bug sp.) and Gymnetron tetrum (Weevil sp.); see Insect Table for other insect feeders). Many of these insects are brightly colored – a warning to potential predators of the toxicity that they acquired from feeding on milkweed. Mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because of the bitterness of the leaves and their toxic properties. [图片]Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and along a roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois. Comments: Depending on the local ecotype, Common Milkweed is highly variable in appearance. The color of the flowers may be highly attractive, or faded and dingy-looking. This plant is often regarded as a weed to be destroyed, but its flowers and foliage provide food for many kinds of insects. Common Milkweed can be distinguished from other milkweeds by its prickly follicles (seedpods) – other Asclepias spp. within Illinois have follicles that are smooth, or nearly so.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月11日

Description: This herbaceous perennial plant forms both basal leaves and erect to ascending stems with alternate leaves; the latter are 2-4' tall, branching occasionally. The stems are grayish green to nearly white, densely canescent, and terete, becoming more glabrous and slightly woody with age. Both the basal and lower alternate leaves are 2–4½" long and ¾–1¾" across (excluding their petioles); they are bipinnatifid to tripinnatifid. These leaves are deeply divided into primary lobes, while their ultimate lobes are more shallow and cleft. The ultimate lobes are 2-4 mm. across and narrowly oblong to narrowly oblanceolate in shape, tapering abruptly into bluntly acute tips. The middle alternate leaves are less divided and slightly smaller in size, while the upper alternate leaves are simple or sparingly lobed and even smaller in size. Both the upper and lower sides of the leaves are grayish green and sparsely to moderately canescent. The basal and lower alternate leaves have long petioles, while the middle alternate leaves have shorter petioles, and the upper alternate leaves are sessile or nearly so. Like the leaves, the petioles are grayish green and canescent. The foliage of this plant has a sage-like aroma with slightly bitter overtones. The upper stems terminate in panicles of flowers. Along the primary rachises of these panicles, there are primary leafy bracts at the bases of the secondary rachises; these primary bracts are up to 1" long, linear-oblong in shape, grayish green to nearly white, and canescent. Secondary leafy bracts also occur at the bases of the peduncles on the secondary rachises; these secondary bracts are similar to the primary leafy bracts, except they are smaller in size. Both the primary and secondary rachises of the panicles are grayish green to nearly white and moderately to densely canescent; they are flat or slightly concave along their upper sides and rounded along their lower sides. The nodding flowerheads are 3-5 mm. across and 2-3 mm. tall; they are subgloboid in shape. Each flowerhead has 20-40 perfect disk florets that are surrounded by 10-20 pistillate disk florets; both types of florets are fertile. The florets are seperated by abundant silky hairs that originate from the receptacle. The tiny corollas of these florets are tubular in shape and 5-lobed along their upper rims. Overall, the appearance of these florets is yellowish brown. Along the sides of each flowerhead, there are small appressed phyllaries (floral bracts) in several overlapping series; these floral bracts are whitish green, densely canescent, and oblong to ovate in shape. The flowerheads have short curved peduncles that are whitish green and densely canescent. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early autumn, lasting 2-3 weeks for a colony of plants. The florets are cross-pollinated by the wind. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by small achenes. Mature achenes are 0.5–1 mm. long, narrowly oblongoid-oblanceoloid in shape, and light brown; they lack tufts of hair. The root system consists of a taproot up to ½" across. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, or some gravel. The soil should be well-drained. The size of individual plants can be highly variable depending on their age, moisture conditions, and soil fertility. For a herbaceous wormwood species (Artemisia), Absinthe tends to be long-lived. Range & Habitat: Naturalized populations of Absinthe can be found in NE Illinois and scattered counties elsewhere, where it is relatively rare (see Distribution Map). All of these naturalized plants have escaped from cultivation. Absinthe was introduced into North America from Europe as an ornamental and medicinal plant. It is still cultivated occasionally in herb gardens today. In North America, this plant is more common in the northern plains of the United States and south-central Canada, where it is regarded as a weed of pastures. Habitats include pastures, sunny fence rows, gravelly areas along railroads, old homestead sites, and waste areas. Habitats with a history of disturbance are strongly preferred. In Illinois, Absinthe has difficulty to competing with taller native plants in natural areas. [图片]Faunal Associations: Several species of aphids are known to feed on Absinthe (Artemisia absinthium); many of these species originated from Europe. Examples include such species as Coloradoa absinthii, Coloradoa angelicae, Coloradoa artemisiae, Macrosiphoniella absinthii (Absinthe Aphid), and other Macrosiphoniella spp. (Blackman & Eastop, 2013; Robinson & Bradley, 1965). Other insects that feed on wormwood species (Artemisia spp.) include Aphis middletonii(Erigeron Root Aphid), larvae of the leaf-miner fly Calycomyza artemisiae (Wormseed Webworm), larvae of the Gelechiid moth, Scrobipalpula artemisiella (Wormseed Webworm), and larvae of the Tortricid moths Eucosma agricolana and Phaneta dorsiatomana (Hottes & Frison, 1931; Spencer & Steyskal, 1986; Marcovitch, 1916; Miller, 1987). Some grasshoppers feed on these plants as well, including Hesperotettix viridis (Meadow Purple-striped Grasshopper), Hypochloa alba (Cudweed Grasshopper), and Melanoplus angustipennis (Narrow-winged Sand Grasshopper); see Vickery & Kevan (1985). Because the foliage of Absinthe is aromatic and bitter, it is not preferred as a source of food by herbivorous mammals. However, cattle and other domesticated livestock will feed on the foliage of Absinthe if little else is available. The consumption of a large quantity of foliage is potentially harmful as it contains the neurotoxin, thujone. [图片]Photographic Location: An herb garden at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: Absinthe (Artemisia absinthium) has been used to flavor an alcoholic liquor by the same name. Excessive consumption of this liquor has the potential to cause toxic effects and its use in some countries has been banned. Absinthe is similar in appearance to several other wormseed species (Artemisia spp.); both native and non-native species are present in Illinois. A native species that occurs in sandy areas, Beach Wormwood (Artemisia campestris), can be distinguished by the longer length and narrowness of the lobes of its leaves, the sterile florets in the center of its flowerheads, and the lack of villous hairs on the receptacle of its flowerheads. The presence of the last characteristic (villous hairs on the receptacles of the flowerheads) distinguishes Absinthe from all other wormseed species in Illinois, except for Prairie Sagebrush (Artemisia frigida). Prairie Sagebrush has smaller leaves with more narrow lobes (1 mm. across or less) than Absinthe, while its flowerheads are slightly larger in size (5-6 mm. across and 3-5 mm. tall). It is primarily a western species that is rarely found in Illinois.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月11日

Description: This perennial wildflower develops a rosette of basal leaves, from which there develops one or more flowering stalks about 1¾-4' tall. The blades of the basal leaves are ½-2' long and 1½-6" across; they are broadly oblong-elliptic in shape and finely crenate-serrate along their margins. The petioles of the basal leaves are often as long as the blades. The basal leaves are widely spreading and rather floppy; their margins often undulate up-and-down. The stems of Horseradish are light to medium green and glabrous. Alternate leaves become smaller in size as they ascend these stems; their blades are 1-6" long and ¼-2" across. The blades of alternate leaves are narrowly elliptic to broadly oblong-lanceolate in shape and their margins are coarsely crenate-serrate to shallowly pinnatifid; they are sessile or with short petioles. The upper blade surfaces of both basal and alternate leaves are medium to dark green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are a more pale shade of green and glabrous below. The central stem and upper axillary stems terminate in either racemes or panicles of flowers about 4-16" in length. The flowers bloom toward the apex of each raceme (or branch of a panicle), while seedpods develop below. Each flower spans about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 4 white petals, 4 light green sepals, 6 stamens, and a pistil with a short style. The petals are about twice the length of the sepals. The ascending pedicels are ¼-¾" in length, light green, and glabrous, becoming longer as the seedpods develop. The central stalks and branches of the racemes and panicles are light green and glabrous. The blooming period can occur from mid-spring to mid-summer and lasts about 2 months. The flowers are replaced by cylindrical seedpods up to ¼" (6 mm.) long; each seedpod can contain up to 8 seeds. The root system consists of a stout taproot and stout rhizomes. Clonal colonies of plants are often produced. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist conditions, and fertile soil containing loam or silt-loam. Because of its underground rhizomes, Horseradish can spread aggressively. Range & Habitat: The non-native Horseradish is occasional in most areas of Illinois, except in the SE section of the state, where it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). This plant was introduced into North America from Europe during colonial times; it is native to SE Europe and parts of SW Asia. Habitats include streambanks, ditches, fence rows, low areas along roads and railroads, abandoned fields, vacant lots, disturbed open woodlands, and waste areas. Horseradish is still cultivated in gardens as a culinary herb. It is usually found in disturbed areas. [图片]Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract small bees, flies, small butterflies, and probably other insects. Several leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae) have been observed to feed on Horseradish, specifically: Entomoscelis americana, Phaedon laevigatus, Phyllotreta armoraciae (Horseradish Flea Beetle), Phyllotreta bipustulata, Phyllotreta conjuncta, Phyllotreta cruciferae, Phyllotreta oblonga, Phyllotreta punctulata, Phyllotreta striolata, and Phyllotreta zimmermanni (see Clark et al., 2004). These species are mostly flea beetles (a subfamily of leaf beetles) that feed on the foliage and sometimes the roots. Other insect feeders include Murgantia histrionica (Harlequin Bug), the caterpillars of Lascoria ambigualis (Ambiguous Moth), and the caterpillars of Pieris rapae (Cabbage White). Because of high levels of mustard oil from the conversion of glucosinolates, Horseradish can produce toxic effects on mammalian herbivores, especially the pungent roots. Photographic Location: A roadside ditch in NW Ohio, and the Toledo Botanical Garden in Toledo, Ohio. [图片]Comments: In the United States, the thick roots of Horseradish are grated to flavor various sauces for food (primarily dishes of beef, pork, and seafood). Such sauces usually contain vinegar, mayonnaise, or pureed tomatoes. Because of the warm climate during summer and the long growing-season, Horseradish usually produces both seedpods and viable seeds in Illinois and other areas of the lower Midwest. Apparently this rarely happens in Great Britain and other areas of Europe where the climate is cool and the growing-season is too short. However, Horseradish is readily propagated by dividing its roots. Because of the size and abundance of its flowers, Horseradish is fairly showy while it is in bloom, especially for a species in the Mustard family. It is also larger in size than most species in this plant family. Horseradish can be distinguished from similar species by the size of its white flowers (about 1/3" or 8 mm. across), the appearance of its basal and alternate leaves, its small cylindrical seedpods, and the pungent odor of its roots. Because the classification of Horseradish has been unstable in the past, it is sometimes referred to as Armoracia lapathifolia, Cochlearia armoracia, and Rorippa armoracia.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月11日

Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. [图片]In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much. Growing Conditions Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun. Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette. Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F). Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand. Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter. Propagation Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water. Repotting Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation. [图片]Varieties There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant. Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements. Grower's Tips Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.

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