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张祥明
2018年06月20日
张祥明
[图片]新叶发黄 有些花友新买的月季没几天，月季就开始从“头”发黄了，主要是新叶，老叶也没啥事 [图片]原因：1、浇水过多；2、缺铁元素 花友们根据排除法，看看自家的月季到底是哪种诱因，一般连土一起买回家的不会立即缺铁，搞不好就是水浇多啦 对策： 1、减少浇水，盆土干了再浇 2、浇硫酸亚铁溶液，或者淘米水发酵1-2周，兑70%的清水，浇在盆土里，不要浇到月季上 老叶黄掉 一看到叶子都这么黄了，花友就急的不行，这可咋办？哈哈，这下真是瞎着急了，你的月季什么病都没有 [图片]原因：正常新陈代谢，自然新老更替 月季长势快，新叶子不断冒出来，底部的老叶子当然自然“退休”了 对策： 直接摘掉老叶，不要留在盆里，避免腐烂滋生细菌，引发其他病变 老叶尖发黄、干枯 如果月季的老叶没有全黄，而是从叶尖开始发黄，干枯，这不是自然老化，而是缺营养！ [图片]原因：缺钾 缺钾的月季不但叶子不正常，整棵长势也不明显，比较瘦弱，一般盆土里泥炭土、沙土居多的话，容易缺钾 对策： 1、添加一些腐叶土，增加全面营养 2、每月浇1-2次的硫酸钾溶液 3、摘掉老叶，不要放在盆里，避免腐烂滋生细菌 叶子发黄，凹凸不平 如果叶子发黄、泛橙色、叶脉颜色深，叶面有些凹凸起伏，也是缺了某种营养 [图片]原因：缺镁、缺钙 一般缺镁和缺钙同时出现，月季开始生长不良，或停止生长，然后黄叶掉叶，这时候想开花都难 对策： 1、浇硫酸镁溶液（加水溶度为0.1%） 2、每月往盆土里掺2-5克骨粉；掺碎鸡蛋壳 3、大豆泡水，发酵1-2周后，兑水浇盆土里（浓度为0.2%） 叶子全黄 正长的壮的叶子完全没了绿色，连叶脉也变黄了，黄掉的叶子还带一点橙色、红色 [图片]原因：缺硫、缺氮 缺硫一般是上面的叶子先黄，缺氮则是下面的叶子先黄，花友们可以根据黄叶的位置来判断 对策： 1、看盆土是否疏松，适当松土 2、摘除黄叶、修剪弱枝 3、追加氮肥、尿素，薄肥多施 4、添加粪肥、豆饼肥 叶子打卷、发黄 有些花友家的月季养的不错，养着养着叶子就卷了、黄了，有的甚至叶边焦黄，感觉好像被火烧过一样 [图片]原因：1、肥大；2肥伤 叶子还是绿色有光泽，叶脉颜色深，排除虫害，应该是肥大或肥伤，这也不是好事，严重的话直接烧死月季 有些花友纳闷，我家都没施肥，怎么肥伤？有些地区下雨，导致土壤里的盐碱度增高，月季根系无法再吸收 对策： 1、停止加肥，如果只有几片叶子卷缩，就多浇几次水，冲淡肥力 2、堆肥的话，适当取出一点肥出来 3、比较严重的肥大现象，最好直接换土 4、肥伤，扒掉表层盆土，暂时控水，土干再浇，严重时直接换土
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张祥明
2018年06月20日
张祥明
常见病症 养护过程中，最常出现的问题，概括起来无非是以下2种：土上部分和土下部分。 [图片]土上部分 一般土上部分容易出现：不长叶、黄叶、枯叶、落叶、叶上长斑点、穿孔，不开花、开花少、烧花、花期短，病虫害等问题。 土下部分 土壤以下常见问题有，土太干、太湿，肥力不够，不透气、长小虫子、过酸过碱等等。 了解了病症，就需要弄清楚病因是什么才能对症下药。下面花花就给大家讲一下怎么检查病因！ 病因检查：土下问题 在不能确定病因的时候，遵循“先下后上”的原则，就是先检查盆土，切忌盲目浇水施肥，导致问题更加严重。 [图片]情况不严重时 1、干湿状态：可以把手插到土壤2cm深的位置，如果稍感湿润，土层松软，暂时不需要浇水，太干则根据花的喜好适时浇水。 2、土壤肥力：判断肥力看颜色，颜色太浅、土层板结，则肥力肯定不足，可用腐熟的液态肥水改善肥力，适时松土。 3、酸碱度：酸碱度检测最简单的方法就是用ph试纸，过碱时可以浇一些稀释的食醋或硫酸亚铁来改善！ 情况严重时 当土壤介质没大问题时，可以用小铁锹挖开土层，检查根系问题，根系腐烂，则需要刨出植株，进行“手术切除”。 1、将剥离出的花根，轻轻晃掉土壤，再用清水冲洗干净； 2、用剪刀将腐烂的根系自下往上剪掉，然后在伤口处涂抹草木灰或细炉灰； 3、将处理完的根放入0.1%的高锰酸钾溶液或稀释的多菌灵溶液浸泡1小时左右，然后放在阴凉处1天左右晾干； 4、根系处理完后重新换土壤上盆。 病因检查：土上问题 土壤以上的因素有3点，光照、空气湿度及病虫害。 [图片]光照判断 1、一般出现叶子变黄下垂、花枝细弱、花苞发黄脱落、花朵太小或不开花时，可以判断是光照太少。 2、叶子小而密的花卉多为半阴性，如山茶、文竹、天门冬等，需要放在室内散光处养护；枝叶大而稀疏的花为阳性花卉，如三角梅、茉莉、大丽花、一串红等，应放在室外或南窗台增加光照。 湿度判断 空气湿度是很多花友容易忽略的一个问题，为什么花市买的花一拿回家，很快就蔫了，就是因为花市的湿度要大的多！ 1、如果叶片颜色淡黄、边缘干枯，失去光泽，或是花朵颜色变淡、花期缩短，说明空气湿度太小，这时要将叶片、枝干喷湿，或在植株上罩一个塑料袋来增加湿度。 2、春夏季室内养护过程中，如果出现花瓣霉烂、落花，或是病虫蔓延、枝叶徒长现象，说明空气湿度太大，要及时开窗通风换气！ 3、一般室内保持60%~70%的湿度即可，超过70%对家电、家具用品不好；低于60%时，可以在地面喷水增加湿度。建议花友们在室内悬挂干湿球湿度计，方便好用！ 病虫害防治 一般花卉的病虫害主要分为三大类：真菌型、细菌型、病毒型。 1、真菌型：环境过湿，容易感染真菌，主要表现就是花叶长出霉状物和粉状物，腐烂变色、坏死、萎蔫、根部溃烂等； 2、细菌型：细菌感染的情况不多，一般表现是花叶上长水渍、油渍一样的溃疡、菌脓； 3、病毒型：夏季高温炎热环境花卉容易遭虫害，从而感染病毒，主要表现是植株长斑点、环状纹路、畸形矮化等。 花友们发现植株感染病虫害时，应立即进行“截肢手术”，剪掉病枝、枯枝，以防传染到其他部位。
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张祥明
2018年06月20日
张祥明
高温导致闷热而死 最近温度真是节节攀升，虽然花花所在的青岛还没有到特别热的时候，但是不少南方花友那边，已经飙升到35℃左右了，此时稍微不小心，家里的多肉就被晒死了！ [图片]应对措施： 1、如果只是稍微晒了一点， 那就赶紧将多肉放在室内阴凉通风的地方，稍微缓几天，或是给它吹小风扇，让盆土尽快降温，基本上就能缓回来了。如果已经被晒得完全脱水，那就彻底没救了！ 2、养在南阳台的花友，要及时拉上遮阳网，避免家里的多肉被暴晒灼伤；而养在院子里的花友，也要及时扯上遮阳网。 浇水过多化水而死 多肉超级耐旱，即使夏季天气炎热，浇水量也要减少，更别说有些多肉一进入夏天就要休眠或半休眠，此时如果一盆水下去，肯定会导致化水啦！ [图片]应对措施： 1、如果家里的多肉化水发现及时，那就赶紧用镊子将化水的叶片摘掉，然后将多肉放在阴凉通风的地方，让盆内的积水能尽快蒸发出去。 2、若是化水特别严重，几乎到了整个植株都在化水的程度，那基本上这颗多肉就没救了。 不通风导致黑腐而死 夏季本身天气就热，若是家里的多肉一直放在不通风的地方，就好像给家里的多肉蒸桑拿，时间久了肯定会出现黑腐的现象了！ [图片]应对措施： 轻微黑腐： 如果家里的多肉黑腐不是特别严重，只是有几片叶子黑腐，那就赶紧将黑腐的叶片摘下来，避免病菌继续蔓延。 部分黑腐： 1、如果黑腐已经特别严重，但是观察根系没有问题的话，那就对多肉进行砍头，将健康的多肉头砍下来，放在阴凉通风处晾干。 2、多肉茎干上有黑腐的部分全都切掉，一直到所有的黑腐全都切掉了为止，然后在伤口上抹点多菌灵粉末。 3、将砍下来的多肉头放在疏松透气的土壤中进行扦插，让它能重新生根；而留下来健康的多肉茎干，也可以慢慢爆出好几个新的多肉头了！ 重度黑腐： 1、如果多肉不仅茎干黑腐，而且根系都已经有黑腐了，那就将黑腐的多肉从花盆里整个挖出来，将根系的土稍微清理一下。 2、准备消毒后的剪刀，将玉蝶小崽整个分开，避免病菌感染，将小崽都感染了。 3、用消毒后的剪刀，将玉蝶黑腐的杆子直接切掉，一直切到整个切面没有黑腐的部分为止，然后抹点多菌灵粉末，放在阴凉通风的地方即可。 4、砍下来的黑腐的杆子，连带根系如果已经全黑腐，那就直接丢弃到外边，已经不能再要了。 5、为了提高玉蝶的成活率，可以将玉蝶水培生根，放在阴凉通风的地方，大概只需要20天的时间，就能让水培的玉蝶生根了！ 6、生根后，准备疏松透气的土壤，将玉蝶移栽上盆，很快就能又得到一盆爆盆的玉蝶啦！
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) grow during the cool season, growing from seed to harvest size in as little as 65 days. Although both plants can survive a freeze, extended periods of cold can slow growth or damage the plants. Waiting to plant until the temperatures are right for the best growth, and providing some protection from extreme cold, keeps the plants healthy and productive. [图片]The Big Freeze Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period. A Happy Medium Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads. Hardening Off Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise. [图片]Protection Pointers If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
To be healthy, people need vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants. By protecting cells against the damage of free radicals, antioxidants can help protect serious illnesses like cancer and heart disease, according to the National Institute of Health. Dangerous free radicals can be produced by the body as it breaks down food, or encountered in toxins like cigarette smoke, but a diet with antioxidant-rich vegetables can help combat these killers, leading to better health. Beans [图片]Many types of beans are rich in antioxidants. Beans, be they kidney, pinto, lima or another variety, are good sources of antioxidants. Studies at Tufts University show a single cup of red beans contains over 13,000 antioxidants, and black beans, even though lowest in the legume family by the same study, still have over 4,000 antioxidants. Beans are also low in fat and cholesterol, but high in protein and fiber, making them filling, healthy and good for proper digestion. To incorporate beans into a diet, try tossing them in salad, blending them into a dip making them into a main dish like bean enchiladas. Tomatoes [图片]Pizza sauce made from tomatoes is a good source of the antioxidant lycopene. Tomatoes derive their bright red color from the antioxidant lycopene and are one of the best sources of this free-radical fighting nutrient, according to the American Cancer Society. People who consume a diet high in tomatoes "appear in some studies to have a lower risk of certain types of cancer, especially cancers of the prostate, lung and stomach" says the society, which adds that studies have shown consuming cooked tomatoes is the most beneficial to health. Furthermore, including a healthy fat, like olive oil, with a lycopene source makes it easier for the body to absorb. Tomatoes are also high in vitamin C, potassium and other nutrients as well. Kale [图片]Kale is a variety of lettuce that's high in nutrients. A type of cabbage, kale is a green leaf vegetable with curly edges and a study at Tufts University showed that it contains more than 11,000 antioxidants. According to the World's Healthiest Foods website, kale is particularly high in flavonoids and carotenoids, types of antioxidants which are believed to help fight cancer. World's Healthiest Foods also states these groups of antioxidants can help raise the amount of certain nutrients in the blood, such as beta-carotene and lutein, which keep the heart and eyes healthy. Kale is also high in vitamin K and essential fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory properties. Eggplant [图片]Antioxidants in eggplant can help prevent cell damage. The chubby purple eggplant has been shown to contain high amounts of important antioxidants in government tests. The Agricultural Research Service conducted studies that showed eggplants are high in chlorogenic acid, "one of the most powerful antioxidants produced in plant tissues" according to the agency. A type of phenolic compound, chlorogenic acid, among other antioxidants, is produced by vegetables to protect themselves from infection and stress, and Harvard University states these antioxidants prevent cell damage, protect against infection and can help control cholesterol.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Red onions can be eaten raw, boiled, broiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried or pickled. These cool-season vegetables are grown by gardeners either from seeds or from small bulbs. Onions are biennial plants that take two years to complete their life cycle. When planted from seed, the red onion forms and above-ground steam--modified leave --and tiny underground bulbs. The next year, larger bulbs form until the red onions are mature and ready for harvest. Planting small red onion bulbs, known as onion sets, allows gardeners to bypass the first year of growing and harvest mature onions much more quickly. [图片]Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility. [图片]Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart. [图片]Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows. [图片]Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture. [图片]Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space. [图片]Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Soybean, lentil and pinto bean seeds grow rapidly, but the time it takes for a bean seed to germinate depends in part on where it sprouts. Germination of a seed in garden soil is measured from the day the seed is planted until just before its first shoot emerges above the soil. Germination outside the soil in a sprouting jar or other container usually is much shorter. Sometimes this is done as part of a science project or to produce edible sprouts. [图片]Soybeans Soybeans are a good model for a science germination experiment, because they sprout in three to four days in petri dishes, according to the Science Project Lab website. But Michigan State University notes that germination in the soil takes six to 14 days. Cold and excess or inadequate moisture are among the conditions that can slow germination outdoors. Living Gently Quarterly notes that soybean sprouts are becoming more common in cooking. But it warns not to sprout commercial seeds intended for planting, because they are chemically treated. Lentils The Sprout People website says it takes two to three days to germinate lentil seeds in sprouters, which are typically lidded containers with holes for air circulation. If growing in the garden, lentil seeds germinate in about 10 days at 68 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the Harvest to Table website. They are hardy annuals and members of the pea family. Sprouting any bean seed involves a process of soaking and regularly rinsing the seeds until they germinate in a sprouter that is kept out of direct sunlight and stored at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lentil sprouts can be eaten raw or cooked. [图片]Pinto Beans In soil, pinto beans germinate in four to eight days, according to the Texas A&M University Extension. But Sprout People says that when germinated in a sprouter, the process only takes 2 to 4 days. Unlike soybean and lentil sprouts, pinto bean sprouts are not edible unless cooked. Sprout People says they add a "delicate sweetness" to soup and that the process of sprouting alleviates some of the gaseousness associated with beans.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
An essential nutrient, all plants must have boron for normal, healthy growth. Because plants only require it in small quantities, it's categorized as a micronutrient. But boron is just as critical as nitrogen and other elements that plants need in larger amounts. Some vegetables prefer more of this micronutrient than other plants require, but adding boron to your vegetable garden demands great care. The range where boron helps plant growth is narrow. Too little boron causes poor vegetable production, but even slightly too much of this common element can leave soil toxic to all plant life. [图片]What Boron Does for Plants Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all. Different Vegetable Requirements Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly. Testing Before Adding Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall. [图片]Adding Boron to Soil When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable plant that can be a long-lasting, permanent addition to a home garden. This vegetable requires well-draining soil to thrive, as waterlogged soil causes root rot. Growing asparagus in raised beds offers them proper drainage and an easier planting bed that doesn't require deep tilling. [图片]Preparing a Raised Bed Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth. Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting. Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil. Planting Asparagus Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting. Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist. Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed. [图片]Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons. Harvesting Asparagus Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come. Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
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2018年06月19日
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Ohio has a mild climate, with U.S. hardiness zones of 5a to 6a. Certain micro-climates exist around the state, so growing seasons vary slightly. Plant seed potatoes in Ohio that mature in the time frame for your climate. [图片]Varieties Early season varieties good for Ohio include superior and norland, which mature in 90 to 100 days and 80 to 90 days respectively. Planting four weeks before your expected frost date allows early harvesting of these potatoes. Hardiness Zones The southern part of Ohio warms up a few weeks earlier than the northern areas. You can plant seed potatoes in Ohio as soon as the soil is dry in your area. Select a time when no rainfall is expected. This generally happens in mid-March for southern Ohio and late April for northern Ohio. [图片]Diseases Potatoes are not without problems and late blight has affected Ohio when spring weather is extremely wet. Control late blight disease by selecting certified seed potatoes, properly drying the potatoes before planting and waiting until the soil is dry. Northern areas of Ohio still yield an abundant harvest even when delaying planting until mid-June.
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