动态第161页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年07月17日

If you have begun your potatoes in a greenhouse or if you need to move your potatoes to another spot in the garden , your potato plants can be safely transplanted by following a few simple steps. Potato plants should be transplanted at least three weeks before harvest on a cooler day. [图片]Step 1 Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6. Step 2 Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after. Step 3 Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting. Step 4 Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole. [图片]Step 5 Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes. Step 6 Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月16日

Spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) produces large seeds that store for up to six years, provided they're properly collected and prepared. Named for its cooked flesh, which resembles spaghetti, spaghetti squash is also called spaghetti gourd, vegetable spaghetti, Manchurian squash and squaghetti. The fruits are smooth-skinned, about 10 inches long, 5 inches in diameter and weigh about 2 pounds. [图片]Harvesting Fruit Spaghetti squash fruits are ready for harvest about 70 to 80 days after sowing. Only seeds from ripe fruit are likely to sprout when sown later. Harvest spaghetti squash when the vine stem withers and the fruit skin is tough. If you aren't sure whether a spaghetti squash fruit is ripe, push a thumbnail into the skin. If the fruit is ready for harvesting, your nail won't pierce the skin. Separating Seed Seed from spaghetti squash fruits must be separated from the pulp and soaked in water. Healthy seeds sink to the bottom in a few days. Cut a spaghetti squash in half lengthways with a sharp knife. Scoop the seeds from the center with a spoon. Put the seeds in a jar or bucket with an equal amount of water. Stir the seed and water mixture once a day for two to four days. A mold may form, but this is harmless. When some seeds sink to the bottom and some float, pour off the water, pulp, floating seeds and mold. Spread the remaining seeds on a paper towel or screen to dry. [图片]Storing Seed Drying and freezing spaghetti squash seeds helps keep them fresh and free of pests and diseases. When the seeds are completely dry, place them in paper envelopes or glass jars. Write the name of the seed type and the date on the envelopes or jar labels, and put them in a freezer. After two days, transfer the seeds in their storage containers to a refrigerator. Plant the seeds within three years.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月16日

Potatoes are a staple of the American diet and are a common ingredient in many foods. While they are heavily cultivated commercially, potatoes are also fairly easy to grow at home. If you have grown potatoes in the past and are looking to get another crop started this year, you may have considered using seed potatoes. Proper storage and care of your seed potatoes can mean all the difference when it comes to a healthy, bountiful crop. [图片]What Are Seed Potatoes? You grow seed potatoes specifically for replanting to produce a potato crop. They are not a different kind of potato. Instead, it is their purpose that causes them to have a different classification. Potatoes are tubers, which means that they grow as the food supply for the leafy green part of their plant. The tuber grows larger underground to store food for the plant. If provided proper nutrients, tubers like potatoes grow sprouts underground, which we call eyes. The eyes of a potato then develop into new plants. You might think that you can start a potato crop using store-bought potatoes. However, most of the potatoes sold to grocery stores have chemical treatments so that they do not grow eyes while on the shelf. As a result, they are far less likely to be effective as seed potatoes. In addition, the chance of a diseased potato crop is much greater if you use store-bought potatoes as the basis for your planting. How to Harvest Seed Potatoes To harvest seed potatoes, dig up any potatoes you wish to store for next year's harvest. Brush the dirt off the potatoes, but do not wash them. You may also purchase certified disease-free potatoes from a garden supply or home improvement store. Many experts recommend starting fresh with certified seed potatoes each year to lessen the risk of an infected and ultimately damaged crop. Plants such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers (all members of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family) are particularly prone to plant-borne illnesses that can destroy entire crops. If you choose to move forward with homegrown seed potatoes, be sure to practice crop rotation, planting your potatoes in a different place each year to prevent disease. Not only is this important for the yield of your harvest, it is essential for your seed potatoes. This is because diseases carried by these seed potatoes are likely to persist into another growing season. Another way to maximize the return on your crop is to harvest seed potatoes of varying types, including heirloom varieties. If you do accidentally introduce a disease to your crop, you might have a higher yield if you have established a diverse population. [图片]How to Store Seed Potatoes Store your seed potatoes in a cool, dry place that hovers around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. While some humidity is essential for your seed potatoes, you should not expose them to too much moisture, or they may begin to rot. In addition, it is critical that potatoes have time to rest, so you should not move or expose them to light or heat during the storage period. Locations like cool closets or cellars are excellent places for seed potatoes. If you are planning to store your potatoes in a basement location, take care to place them so that mice or other nuisance wildlife cannot get to them. Keep the potatoes in a cardboard box or brown paper bag during their hibernation period. However, they require ventilation, so do not stack or pile the potatoes too high. Additionally, do not cover or close the container so that air cannot enter. Three to four weeks before you wish to plant your crop, move your seed potatoes to a well-lit area with high humidity. A sunny window or under a grow light is an excellent choice. The purpose of this exercise is to encourage the sprouting of your potatoes. Covering seed potatoes with moist burlap bags can aid in the sprouting process. How to Plant Seed Potatoes If your seed potatoes are small, you do not need to cut them. However, if you have stored large potatoes, you should cut them into pieces with two to three eyes each. Each piece should weigh about two ounces. Following these guidelines will maximize your crop yield. You will need to either plant any cut potatoes immediately or let them dry for up to two days and then plant them. Plant your seed potatoes in well-drained, rich and fertilized soil that is six inches deep. If you choose to hill your potatoes, mound the dirt covering them and add a layer of mulch on top. Keep hills about one foot apart. Water your seed potatoes regularly, providing each plant two inches of water per week.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月16日

When planning your vegetable garden, timing is crucial to getting the most from your hard work. Ohio gardeners can plant during three of the four seasons to get a bigger bounty at harvest times. Summers are long and hot, and winters can be brutal, but the spring and fall seasons bring additional planting times often overlooked. Ohio's Climate Most of the Ohio falls within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 6a, although certain areas are in USDA zones 5b and 6b. In USDA zone 6a, the average annual extreme low temperature is minus 10 to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes in winter; wait until the soil is workable to plant your early-spring crops. Frost Dates [图片]Having a basic understanding and knowledge of the weather and average annual frost dates can help you plan your vegetable garden. Certain crops require a long growing season, some are considered tender and others grow best in cool temperatures. Knowing the average annual first and lost frost dates will help you get a good idea of when to plant your spring and fall vegetables. For much of Ohio, the dates of the average last spring frost -- at 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- range from the end of April to late May; the first frost dates in fall range from mid-September to mid-October. Summer Vegetable Garden The summer vegetable garden often takes first place among gardeners. In Ohio, planting dates for summer vegetables are after the last frost but early enough to ensure a long growing season. Many tender crops such as corn (Zea mays), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and beans (Phaseolus spp.) need long summer days and a long growing season to produce the best crops. Tender crops are particularly frost-sensitive and may become irreparably damaged if exposed to frost or cold temperatures. Plant in the middle to end of May to help ensure a bountiful harvest. Fall Vegetable Garden [图片]Certain vegetable crops do best when they mature after the hottest part of summer. For example, summer's heat can make lettuces (Lactuca sativa) bolt and produce bitter leaves. Cole crops, including broccoli and cauliflower (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata), Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and kale (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) also do best when planted late. Many of these crops are cold-tolerant and able to withstand frosts and temperatures down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting times for these cool-season crops are midsummer, allowing the plants to grow into fall. Plant them between late June and September. Early-Spring Planting You have the option of planting cool-season crops as soon as the soil is workable. Lettuces, root vegetables and cole crops can often go in the ground in March or April, as soon as the temperatures start rising and the ground thaws. This timing allows the plants to grow before summer's heat makes them bolt or turn bitter. Early-spring planting also reduces the amount of pests on seedlings. Help protect young plants' tender leaves and stems from unexpected frosts by draping a protective sheet over stakes in the ground around them or by placing plastic bottles or milk jugs around individual plants.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月16日

Fast-growing annual vines with yellow blooms up to 5 inches across, loofah plants (Luffa spp.) usually require a four-month growing season to produce mature gourds. Therefore, gardeners in the north may need to start them indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. During the summer and early autumn, the heavy vines should be grown in humus-rich soil in full sun, preferably on a sturdy trellis or fence to keep their 1 to 2-foot gourds off the ground. Those fruits must be harvested before or just after the first autumn frost and are used both as bath sponges and dish scrubbers. [图片]Pick and Peel Mature Sponges If you live in an area with a long growing season, Jack Arnott of Cobb County Extension Service recommends that you allow your loofah gourds to dry on the vine until their skin is brown and brittle and you hear seeds rattle when you shake those gourds. Break open the skin at the blossom the end opposite the stem of the gourd to reach those seeds, if you wish to save them. It usually is easy to pick off the rest of the brittle skin with your fingers to reveal the sponge beneath. If you prefer, you can dunk the gourds in a bucket of water instead -- for any time period lasting from 5 minutes to several days -- and peel off their skins in wet strips. Pick and Peel Immature Sponges If your growing season isn't quite long enough, Jeanine Davis of North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension reports that you can harvest adequate sponges from gourds which have only partially yellowed, as long as their skins are beginning to slip. After you make an opening to save the seeds, grab the end of one of the fibers running the length of the gourd's ridges and pull on it to unzip the remaining skin. Clean and Dry Sponges Immediately plunge a less-than-mature sponge into a bucket of water to wash out any juices that remain due to its only half-dry condition. Although the sponge still will be white at that stage, it's a good idea to soak it in a bleach solution to eliminate fungi and bacteria. Mature sponges also should be immersed in bleach solution, of 4 tablespoons of bleach per 1 gallon of water, both to kill contaminants and to brighten their naturally off-white color. [图片]After disinfecting the sponges, rinse them with clean water and spread them in the sun to dry. A porous surface works well for this purpose. You can turn screens into drying tables by laying them horizontally on top of sawhorses.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月16日

The pepperoncini is a type of pepper that is also known as Tuscan pepper, sweet Italian pepper and golden Greek pepper. These mild peppers are frequently served with pizza and offer a tangy flavor. They are grown in much the same way that other peppers are grown. After growth, these peppers are usually pickled and placed into jars for sale. [图片]Step 1 Start your pepperoncini plants as seeds inside in the early spring or late winter. Press the seeds approximately a quarter-inch into a good, all-purpose potting soil. Water them daily to keep them moist and place the containers in a sunny window. Typically, you will being to see seedlings in one to two weeds. Step 2 Transplant your seedlings outside when the night temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees and there is no longer a threat of frost. Soak the pots before you transplant your peppers. Make sure the root ball is completely soaked. You do not want the soil to dry out. Step 3 Choose a sunny location for your seedlings. Dig a hole that is the same size as the pot that you are transplanting the peppers from. Separate the roots a little to loosen them so they will spread out after they are planted. Set the seedling into the ground and cover it back with the original soil that came from the hole. Step 4 Place your plants 10 to 15 inches apart in rows. This will give you enough room between plants to harvest and will provide your plants with enough room to grow. [图片]Step 5 Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your plants so that they will maintain their water balance and not dry out. This will also keep the moisture evenly distributed and help to cut down on weeds in your garden. Step 6 Water your plants daily while they are growing with at least an inch of water. For a hotter pepper you can water the plants once a week, but do not wait longer than that or the pods will dry out. Step 7 Stake your pepper plants once they begin to grow and develop heavy pods. This will prevent the plants from breaking. Drive a stake into the ground and use string to tie the plant up. Step 8 Harvest your pepper plants when they are 2 to 3 inches long and are a bright green in color. They will store in the refrigerator for several weeks, or you can freeze them for up to a year. Pickling preserves them for several years.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月15日

Nitrogen is viewed to be the most important of all the nutrients in fertilizers. It is also the most difficult nutrient to measure in soil. The microbes in the soil control the day to day supply of nitrogen. In long spells of cold, dry or wet weather, the microbes are slowed down, consequently affecting nitrogen release in the soil. Too much nitrogen is not good since it can cause fertilizer burn. It can even retard the growth of crops or lead to excessive vegetative growth. Different vegetables have different requirements for nitrogen. [图片]Distinguishing Between Fertilizers One of the easiest ways to figure out nutrient content in fertilizer is to remember that fertilizers are categorized by the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or the N-P-K ratio. The highest nitrogen fertilizer, ammonium nitrate, contains the ratio of 33-0-0 or 34-0-0, but this is only to be used in special soil and growth conditions. Similarly, the balanced fertilizer, as the name implies, contains a balance of all three nutrients in a ratio of 6-6-6, 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. High Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that require high nitrogen levels include beets, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Asian greens, potato, leek, spinach and Swiss chard. High nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-5-5. Medium Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that have a medium or balanced nitrogen requirement include chicory, asparagus, eggplant, lettuce, garlic, onion, squash, pepper, tomato and sweet corn. A balanced nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-16-16. Low Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that require a low level of nitrogen include cucumber, carrots, fava beans, peas, radish, parsnip, turnip and rutabaga. A low nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 5-10-10. Nitrogen for Fruit Bearing Vegetables The fruit-bearing vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber, pepper, melon and tomato need a good dose of nitrogen in order to start off a healthy plant. But later as the fruit starts to form they need a fertilizer that has high concentrations of potash. [图片]Tips for Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden For optimal production, fertilizers need to be added every year to the vegetable garden. The best way to determine the levels of phosphorus, nitrogen and potash in the soil is through a soil test. Soil tests determine exactly how much nutrient needs to be added to the soil in view of the vegetables that are being grown. The easiest way to fertilize is to use a good quality commercial fertilizer made specifically for vegetable gardening. Generally, the leafy vegetables and corn need greater quantities of nitrogen, the pod and fruit crops require more phosphorus, and the root vegetables need an extra kick of potash. Unless the soil is markedly deficient in the important nutrients it is often not important to use special fertilizers for the different vegetables in smaller gardens. However, in large commercial vegetable crops, the soil analysis is targeted to match specific crops.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月15日

Everyone knows what a watermelon fruit looks like, but far fewer can recognize the vine from which it grows. Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) is a sun-loving tropical vine that has distinctively lobed leaves of a light green color. They feel hairy, as do the whitish pale green stems. The flowers are yellowy green and are pollinated by bees, leading to the formation of the first round fruits of solid green that elongate and show the characteristic mottling or stripes of light and dark green. [图片]Step 1 Look at the habit of the plant you think is a watermelon. Watermelons are vines, usually sprawling across the ground in a sunny location. At maturity, each vine is 10 to 15 feet in length, from stem base to vine tip and has tiny tendrils, or thread-like curling stems at leaf bases. Step 2 Note the time of year. Watermelons prosper in warm temperatures and do not survive frosts. If it is early in spring when temperatures are still below 60 degrees F, or in autumn after a frost has occurred, chances are the vine you encounter will not be a watermelon. Step 3 Look at the vine's foliage and feel its texture with your fingers. Watermelon leaves are light green with a hint of silvery white in their color. More importantly, the leaves are deeply lobed, having three to five finger-like lobes that have coarse rounded teeth. The leaves will have a gentle, sandpapery texture. Step 4 Search the length of the stem for any flowers or fruits. The flowers are yellow and occur singly, and look like papery petunia-like blossoms with five united petals. Flowers occur at the newest parts of a vine, usually at the tips, while further back on the vine you may encounter a green, smooth, round fruit that is developing. The skin of the fruit may or may not yet have dark and light green spots or irregular striping. [图片]Step 5 Cut open a fruit. The flesh of a watermelon is easily recognized when nearing ripeness, with the red flesh and black seeds. However, young developing fruits' flesh is pale green to white with small white seeds.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月15日

A winter garden fills the kitchen with healthy vegetables just when the weather turns cold. Planting a variety of veggies, from broccoli to beets, in August gives the seedlings time to establish themselves in the garden. As the weather cools and frost spreads over the garden, the leaves and roots of many cool-season vegetables become sweeter and tastier. [图片]Cabbage Family Members of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae Family) are cool-weather vegetables that thrive in both early spring and late fall until frost. Depending on the species, these vegetables are also grown through the winter in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 10. While most of the Brassicas are biennials, they are grown as annuals in the garden and harvested before they flower. Broccoli and cauliflower are exceptions; they are harvested after the flower heads appear, but while they are still immature, before they burst into bloom. Brassica seedlings are set out in the garden in August for a fall or winter harvest. If the weather is still hot, protect the seedlings from the afternoon sun with shade cloth or sheets suspended on bamboo poles. As the hardiest of the cool-season vegetables, most Brassicas' flavor is enhanced by cold weather and a touch of frost. Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) - 50 to 70 days. Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata) - 80 days. Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) - 60 to 90 days. Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala). Leafy Vegetables Leafy vegetables include annuals and biennials, such as beet greens, that are grown as annuals. These cool-season vegetables are planted from August until 60 days before the first frost date. Beets (Beta vularis) developed for both greens and roots, such as 'Bull's Blood,' which has deep red leaves and roots, are grown through the winter in USDA zones 10 and 11. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is also planted in late summer and fall in USDA zones 6 through 8a and in winter in USDA zones 8b through 10. 'Bull's Blood' beet -- 35 days for baby greens and 58 days for roots. Chard or Swiss chard (Beta vularis var. cicla) -- 35 days for salads and 60 days for mature leaves. Lettuce -- 40 to 90 days, depending on the variety . Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) -- 40 to 55 days. Peas Peas (Pisum sativum) thrive in cool weather. Plant peas in August or September for a fall crop, before the first frost arrives. Harvest dates vary depending on the variety, ranging from 54 to 72 days. Count back from the first frost date and allow an extra seven to 14 days so the peas have time to develop. If the weather is still hot, provide afternoon shade to protect the developing vines, flowers and pods. Peas grow best when allowed to climb a trellis. [图片]Root Vegetables Root vegetables that thrive in cool weather are often sweeter after a frost. Plant the seeds in loose, organically rich soil from August until approximately six to eight weeks before the first frost. Root vegetables may be grown in sun or in warm regions, in partial shade. Beets (Beta vulgaris var. crassa) - 45 to 65 days. Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) - 50 to 80 days. Radishes (Raphanus sativus) - 22 to 70 days.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月15日

The sour flavor experienced with some foods is due to citric acid. It can be found in many fruits and vegetables, especially citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges. [图片]Definition Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates. Vegetables Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level. Preservatives Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste. Natural Cleansers Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control. [图片]Absorption A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.

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