动态第146页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

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Everybody knows that banana plants produce the bananas you slice up on your breakfast cereal, but there are other, less familiar uses for banana plants. These shrubs produce large, deep-green leaves on tall stalks, giving them the appearance of large trees. You can use banana plants to grow bananas but also to add a tropical touch indoors or outside. [图片]Edible Gardening Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist. Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits. Tropical Screen Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season. [图片]Garden Centerpiece A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots. When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form. Indoor Foliage Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch. The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.

2018年08月20日

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Ferns are one of the oldest forms of plant life. There are over 10,000 known species of fern, some of which are deciduous and some that are evergreen. Fern leaves are called fronds, and they house the reproductive spores that ferns produce instead of seeds. Deciduous ferns lose their leaves in winter and tend to look ratty over the season when some of them die back but don't fall off. Evergreen ferns are vibrant year-round but they can benefit from cleanups to remove damage and dead fronds. Timing is important when pruning ferns so new fiddleheads (immature ferns) are not disturbed and spores are able to disperse. [图片]Timing is Everything Pruning of ferns needs to occur after the spores on fruiting fronds have matured and released. Trim them when they are dormant, which is during winter. They can also be pruned in very early spring. Many ferns do not object to pruning at any time of the year. The hardy ferns such as sword fern can be pruned once a year if necessary, just about any time, since they are continuously growing. Evergreen Ferns As a rule, ferns don't really need pruning. Ferns in nature are generally self-cleaning and will release old fronds as they die. In the garden, occasional removal of dead fronds will improve the appearance of the plant, but it is strictly cosmetic. Where the plants are large and very old, severe pruning can take place to the crown. All the fronds can be removed in late winter or before the first new fiddleheads appear. Prune the stems away from the crown in a circular pattern so you are left with a little dome. This is not only attractive, but it prevents accidental damage to the newest growth which appears at the center of the plant. Deciduous Ferns Deciduous ferns don't necessarily drop all their fronds when temperatures plummet. They do experience dieback and many of the fronds will fall off or turn brown. From a cosmetic standpoint, it is best to get these dead fronds out of the plant. You will also increase light and room for new leaflets. Many people prune the deciduous ferns in fall so they are ready for the spring, but the old fronds provide protection for the crown. It is best to leave them, unattractive though they may be, until spring. [图片]Pruning Indoor Ferns Boston, staghorn and maidenhair are some of the common ferns used as houseplants. These plants do not need pruning but they do need cleaning. The difference is that pruning increases the health of a plant and is done for many reasons, while cleaning is just routine maintenance. As with outdoor ferns you may choose to remove dead fronds. These should be cut with very sharp scissors or pruning shears and taken back 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the crown. The only time you would ever need to prune out all the fronds is when you are faced with a monumental pest problem. In this case, fertilize one week before the big haircut and then remove all the fronds.

2018年08月20日

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Lawn-grass professionals divide the United States into four main zones of grass adaptation based on climatic conditions. The Northeast region of the country falls into what's known as the cool, humid zone. Lawn grasses that do best in the Northeast are hardy, cool-season grasses that tolerate humidity in addition to cold. [图片]Because most lawns have areas that vary in moisture as well as sun and shade exposure, a mixture of cool-season grasses normally delivers the best overall lawn. Using a mixture allows different, complementary grass types to dominate in various areas and conditions that fit them best. The major perennial lawn grasses that flourish in cool, humid Northeast conditions are: Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 6. Although slow to establish from seed, Kentucky bluegrass spreads vigorously via underground stems known as rhizomes once it gets settled into sunny lawns. That spreading behavior also helps it repair itself when damaged by foot traffic or other injuries. Known for its green color and fine texture, Kentucky bluegrass flourishes in cool temperatures with the consistent soil moisture common in Northeast lawns. Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne, USDA zones 3 through 6), which establishes quickly and greens up fast in spring, making it a welcome complement to Kentucky bluegrass. Some perennial ryegrass varieties have improved longevity over older, traditional varieties and offer a finer texture that mixes well with other cool-season grasses. This versatile lawn grass tolerates sun exposure, some shade and adapts well to changing Northeast conditions, but it does not tolerate overly wet soil. Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea, USDA zones 4 through 7), once considered only forage pasture grass but recognized by turf breeders for its potential as a resilient lawn grass. Fairly new varieties known as turf-type fescues retain tall fescue's clumping growth habit and its ability to thrive in poor, droughty soil. Deep-rooted, turf-type tall fescues stand up well to foot traffic and bring Northeast lawns improved texture, color and drought tolerance. Fine fescues (Festuca spp.), such as creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra var. rubra, USDA zones 3 through 7). They excel in well-drained shade and dry areas that challenge other Northeast lawn grasses. Although these low-maintenance lawn grasses establish faster than Kentucky bluegrass, they don't tolerate the wear and tear that tall fescues can. So they work best when confined to low foot-traffic areas. [图片]Bentgrass (Agrostis spp., USDA zones 4 through 6), historically the grass favored on golf-course greens. Newer varieties have increased the use of bentgrass by homeowners looking for dense, cushiony, golf-greenlike turf -- or a backyard putting green. Spread by above-ground stems, known as stolons, bentgrass offers a low-growth habit, fine texture and rich-green color. Bentgrass thrives in the Northeast's cool, humid climate and fertile soil.

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Lemongrass (Cymbopogon spp.) is the common name for several species of grasses in the genus Cymbopogon. These grasses are native to tropical parts of Asia, Africa and Australia, and they are generally frost-tender and do not survive winters in cold climates. [图片]Annuals vs. Perennials The term annual refers to those plants that complete their entire life cycles within a single growing season. Generally, annuals grow from a seed, produce their own flowers and seeds, and die in a single season, and new plants grow the following year from the seeds produced by the parent plant. Perennial plants, in contrast, survive through multiple growing seasons; although their reproductive cycles might be completed in one growing season, the parent plants will continue to grow and reproduce in subsequent seasons. The year-after-year survival of perennial plants, however, is usually limited by their relative tolerance or intolerance of cold temperatures, and in climates where winters are colder than a given species will tolerate, the plant will usually die at the end of the growing season when the weather turns cold. When they're grown in climates where they're not winter-hardy, some perennials plants are treated as annuals by gardeners, who replant new plants each spring. Sometimes when a perennial is grown in climates that fall just outside the climate in which the plant is fully winter-hardy, cold temperatures will cause the foliage and above-ground structure of the plant to die back, but the plant's root system will survive. In this case, the plant may survive the winter and begin to grow new foliage in the spring. Lemongrass The Cymbopogon species most commonly grown as the garden ornamental called lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a perennial, but it is sensitive to frost and below-freezing temperatures, and in the United States, it is fully winter hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. In these zones, the grass, which typically grows to a height of between 2 and 4 feet, will remain green throughout the winter. In moderately cooler zones, lemongrass may survive the winter and return in the spring even though the plant's leaves die back. Lemongrass roots are typically hardy in USDA zones 8b and 9, and in these zones, the plant may return year after year. [图片]In zones colder than USDA zone 8b, lemongrass will likely not survive the winter and must be grown in the garden as an annual. Alternatively, the plant may be grown in a container and taken indoors when temperatures begin to fall and over-wintered in a sunny room.

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Pagoda plant (Clerodendrum paniculatum) earned its common name because of the tiered, pyramidal shape of its flower clusters, which stand out against its large, heart-shaped leaves. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, where its equally ornamental foliage and flowers brighten gardens all year. Pagoda plant requires year-round care to maintain its good looks and long-term health. Its care requirements vary by season but decrease significantly in winter. [图片]Seasonal Watering A pagoda plant's water needs fluctuate significantly during the year. In summer, it needs consistently moist soil and should be watered weekly or whenever the soil dries out completely on the surface. A potted pagoda plant will quickly deplete soil moisture and may need to be watered several times each week, especially if it is in an unglazed clay pot. Water until the soil feels moist in the top 2 inches, or until water trickles from the pot's drainage holes. Only use pots with drainage holes so the plant doesn't sit in soggy soil. In winter, water only if no rain falls for longer than one week or if the plant appears slightly wilted. Fertilizer Needs A pagoda plant is a moderately heavy feeder during summer, especially if it is in full sun. In shade, feed a pagoda plant once every two weeks with soluble fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 15-15-15 or 12-12-12. Increase the frequency to weekly for a plant in full sun. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and apply the solution to wet soil around the base of the plant. Don't fertilize in winter to allow the pagoda plant to rest. Resume feeding in spring. Pruning and Grooming A pagoda plant will grow quickly in summer, which means it may crowd out less assertive plants. Prune it to restrict its size and encourage better blooming and denser foliage. Prune in summer after the last flowers have faded. Snip off any spent flowers and trim back the entire plant by up to one-half, is you wish. Before pruning, soak your shears in a disinfecting solution for five minutes, then rinse and wipe them thoroughly. Use 1 part pine oil cleaner and 3 parts water or full-strength household disinfectant as the solution. [图片]Potential Problems Pests, including aphids, whiteflies and spider mites, often trouble a pagoda plant, causing damage that ranges from cosmetic to catastrophic. Early detection is key to ensuring the survival of the plant, so routinely monitor it for signs of bugs such as eggs on the undersides of the leaves, honeydew and abnormally yellow leaves. Treat infestations with an insecticidal soap solution. Mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap in 1 gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Saturate the foliage every four to seven days, preferably when the weather is still and cool. Although insecticidal soap is nontoxic, wear goggles and a face mask to protect your mucous membranes. Rinse off the plant two to three hours after each treatment to prevent leaf damage.

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One of the first, and best known, re-blooming daylilies is the cultivar "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro"), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. It first appeared in 1975, and 10 years later won the Stout Silver Medal. This is the highest award a daylily cultivar can receive from the American Hemerocallis Society. Like most daylilies, "Stella de Oro" benefits from division every few years. [图片]How Often Should I Divide? "Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms. What Time of Year Is Best? Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided. If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall. How Do I Divide Daylilies? If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry. [图片]Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies. What Comes After Division? Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots. Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.

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The perennial Japanese lantern plant is related to tomatoes and potatoes. It is grown for the bright orange sheath, or calyx, that surrounds its fruit. Dried stems with the calyx still attached are a popular Christmas and Halloween decoration. This species can become invasive because of its spreading underground rhizomes; you can grow it in containers or in pots sunk into the garden to prevent it from getting out of control. [图片]Step 1 Sow Japanese lantern seeds in 4- or 6-inch pots indoors in the early spring. Start about a month before the average date of the last spring freeze. Sprinkle the seed thinly on the surface of sterile potting compost and cover with 1/4 inch sieved compost. Keep the soil moist but not soaking and place in a warm spot. Step 2 Transplant Japanese lantern seedlings into the garden six weeks after they germinate and are large enough to handle. Plant in a partially shady site with rich but well-drained soil. Allow between 1 and 3 feet between plants depending on the mature size of the cultivar you are growing. Step 3 Fertilize your growing plants with a liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen every three weeks or apply a slow release granular fertilizer every three months. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings but never to the point where the leaves start to wilt. [图片]Step 4 Harvest the stems in the fall as soon as the fruit calyxes develop their orange color. Remove all the leaves and hang the stems out to dry.

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Over 2,300 camellia (Camellia spp.) cultivars are registered with the American Camellia Society, many of them from the popular Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica) and Sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua and two closely related species, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis, both hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9) groups. Some camellia varieties are adaptable to everything from drought conditions to cold climates, with bloom-time ranges from October to April, depending on species and cultivar. [图片]Japanese Camellias The rose-like flowers of Japanese camellias are a welcome sight in the winter months when many flower species are lying dormant. Camellia leaves are always bright, glossy evergreen, but the flowers range in color from white, through many shades of pink and red with variegated colored varieties of each. Bob Hope (Camellia japonica 'Bob Hope') has large, deep red, semi-double ruffled flowers and bright yellow stamens; it is a mid-season bloomer, flowering in winter, and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 10. Carter's Sunburst (Camellia japonica 'Carter's Sunburst'), also hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10, has pink and red-streaked variegated flowers that also come into bloom in the winter months. Depending on the cultivar, Japanese camellias are hardy throughout USDA zones 7 through 10. Sasanqua Camellias This species group of camellias vary in form from dense, bushy, upright plants to low-growing, spreading varieties. Their leaves are smaller than Japanese camellias, and the flowers are exceptionally fragrant. Camellia sasanqua 'Chansonette' can be grown in USDA zones 7 through 10, with a blooming period of fall through winter with pink, double-petaled flowers. It is a low spreading ground-cover camellia with a height of 2 to 3 feet and 8 feet in diameter. Bonanza (Camellia sasanqua 'Bonanza') thrives in the same hardiness zones with bright scarlet peony-form blossoms early in the bloom season, in autumn. Depending on the cultivar, Sasanqua camellias are hardy throughout USDA zones 7 through 10. Camellia Hybrids Long Island Pink (Camellia x 'Long Island Pink') is a camellia hybrid that produces single-petaled pink flowers in fall. It is a slow-growing bush that reaches 10 feet in height and 8 feet in diameter in USDA zones 6 through 9. The glossy green foliage emerges in bronze, and this camellia species is often used as a hedge, or as an espalier plant along a wall. Another popular camellia hybrid is the pure white-blossomed Quintessence (Camellia x 'Quintessence') which thrives in USDA zones 8 through 10 and does well as a small shrub or ground-cover. Its single white flowers with pink blush at the petal margins generally bloom early to mid-season, October to December. Depending on the cultivar, hybrid camellias are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10. [图片]Bloom Failure Camellias set more buds than come open, but under-watering may cause bud drop or buds that fail to open and bloom. Bloom failure may also be caused by too much direct sun or harsh winds. Camellias prefer growing conditions that offer filtered sunlight, such as given by the canopy of a large tree. Blossom failure may also be caused by fluctuating temperatures. If the temperature drops to freezing, cover the camellia bush with a light blanket or heat-retaining plant cover. Secure it at soil level to take advantage of ground heat, and remove cover in the morning.

2018年08月18日

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Bleeding heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) prefers warm, humid conditions, making Florida's weather conditions optimal. It is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 12, acting like a perennial in Central and South Florida. North Florida plants will die to the ground during frosts and freezes, but they will resprout in spring. The evergreen shrub has a vine-like habit, growing up to 15 feet tall. Bleeding heart has red and white bell-like flowers, blooming from spring through summer. [图片]Growing Outside Step 1 Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart. Step 2 Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches. Step 3 Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands. Step 4 Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor. [图片]Step 5 Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist. Step 6 Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like. Step 7 Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives. Growing Inside Containers Step 1 Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die. Step 2 Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up. Step 3 Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water. Step 4 Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day. Step 5 Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.

2018年08月18日