ステルンベルギアの育て方・栽培方法 育て方のポイント 栽培環境・日当たり・置き場 水はけのよい日なたを好み、肥沃な土壌で育てます。過湿を嫌うので、水はけの悪い土壌では土壌改良します。腐葉土などの有機質を加えるとともに、軽石やパーライトを混ぜるとよいでしょう。鉢植えの場合は、夏の休眠期には雨の当たらない風通しのよい場所に移動させます。 水やり 鉢植えは、生育中は、用土が乾いたらたっぷりと水を与えます。葉が枯れて休眠したら水を切ります。 肥料 元肥として緩効性化成肥料を土壌、用土に混ぜておきます。追肥は、花後から春まで、カリ分の多い液体肥料を定期的に施します。 病気と害虫 特に問題となるような病害虫はありません。 [图片]用土（鉢植え） 水はけと通気性のある用土が適しています。市販の草花用培養土か、赤玉土7、腐葉土3の配合土を用いるとよいでしょう。 植えつけ、 植え替え 8月下旬から9月上旬に植えつけます。植えつけが遅れると、花と葉の伸長が悪くなるので、注意します。5号鉢に4～5球、庭植えであれば球根2個分の間隔で植えつけます。毎年植え替える必要はなく、混み合ってきたら掘り上げて植え替えます。 ふやし方 分球：植え替え時に、球根を外してふやします。 タネまき：タネをまいてもふやせますが、開花までに5～6年かかります。 [图片]主な作業 花がら摘み：花が終わったら、花首のところで切ります。 球根の掘り上げ：庭植えにしている場合は、毎年球根を掘り上げる必要はありません。しかし、水はけが悪い土壌では、夏の休眠期に球根が腐りやすいので、初夏に葉が枯れたら速やかに球根を掘り上げます。その後、雨のかからない涼しい日陰で乾燥貯蔵します。

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Scientific Name Taraxacum albidum Dahlst. [图片]Common Names White Dandelion Synonyms Taraxacum albidum var. albidum, Taraxacum albidum f. albidum, Taraxacum albiflorum, Taraxacum officinale var. albiflorum Scientific Classification Family: Asteraceae Subfamily: Cichorioideae Tribe: Cichorieae Subtribe: Crepidinae Genus: Taraxacum [图片]Flower Color: White Bloom Time: Spring Description Taraxacum albidum it is a perennial herbaceous plant, sometimes mistaken for Taraxacum coreanum. The deeply lobed leaves of this tap-rooted perennial plant form a basal rosette from which the long, slightly downy, unbranched flower stalks rise up to 16 inches (40 cm). It blooms once a year, usually in spring, but sometimes in late autumn. Each scape bears a single flower-head consisting of many small, white ray florets, opening from a rounded bud consisting of narrow green bracts. The flowers are hermaphrodite and self-fertile. Hardiness USDA hardiness zone 4a to 8b: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 20 °F (−6.7 °C). [图片]How to Grow and Care At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy. Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard. Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. Origin Native to the southern part of Japan.

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Scientific Name Ludwigia sedoides (Humb. & Bonpl.) Hara [图片]Common Names Mosaic Plant, Mosaic Flower, False Loosestrife Synonyms Jussiaea sedoides (basionym) Scientific Classification Family: Onagraceae Genus: Ludwigia [图片]Flower Color: Yellow Bloom Time: Summer Description Ludwigia sedoides is a floating, leaf marginal, aquatic perennial. Red and green diamond-shaped leaves in rounded clusters (rosettes up to 6 inches/15 cm wide) float on the water surface. The stems are red. Small, cup-shaped, yellow flowers are up to 2 inches (5 cm) diameter) and bloom in summer. [图片]How to Grow and Care This floating Ludwigia is native to Central and South America, where it can be found growing in stagnant waters as well as in sections of riverine environments that are free of current. It is a very common pond plant in warm climates or ponds in conservatories. Cultivation in an aquarium is a bit more complicated. Above all else, this floating stem plant requires light. Even values in the higher range of what is possible over a planted aquarium are often not enough. Outdoor culture in a well-lit pond or tub is sometimes the only way to achieve satisfactory growth with this species. Heavy fertilization with macro- and micronutrients is essential (if enough light is available) to produce attractive growth. Yellow flowers form on the floating rosettes if the plant is achieving good growth. Winter hardy to USDA Zone 10. In St. Louis, grow as an annual in containers covered with 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) of water in full sun to part shade. Plants can be difficult to overwinter indoors. Although the usefulness of this species in the aquascape is markedly limited, its beautiful circles of reddish foliage can lend a unique texture to outdoor ponds. Origin Native to Central and South America.

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ステルンベルギアの基本情報 学名：Sternbergia 和名：キバナタマスダレ（ステルンベルギア・ルテア）　　 科名 / 属名：ヒガンバナ科 / キバナタマスダレ属（ステルンベルギア属） 特徴 ステルンベルギアは、ヨーロッパ南東部からアジア南西部に5～8種が分布する小球根です。日本ではステルンベルギア・ルテア（Sternbergia lutea）が最もよく栽培されています。秋に休眠から覚めたあと、葉の出現と同時、あるいは先駆けて1つの球根から2～3本の花茎を出し、クロッカスに似た黄色い花を咲かせます。花後も葉を残し、冬を経過したあと、初夏に葉が枯れて夏に休眠します。 [图片]種類（原種、園芸品種） ステルンベルギア・ルテア Sternbergia lutea 最もよく栽培されている種で、和名はキバナタマスダレ。1つの球根から2〜3本の花茎を出し、クロッカスに似た黄色い花を咲かせる。 [图片]

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#紫罗兰 是我们很喜欢的一种花卉，观赏价值高，还能药用、食用，是一种用途广泛的花卉，很多人布置家居时都会选择紫罗兰，今天爱莲说要给大家介绍的是紫罗兰的养护中病虫害的处理： [图片]紫罗兰病虫害及解决方法： 1、紫罗兰枯萎病 枯萎病会导致紫罗兰植株变矮、萎蔫，幼株的叶片上产生明显的脉纹、在较大的植株上引起叶片下垂等症状。 解决方法：种植紫罗兰用的土壤应消毒后再利用，药剂可用1000倍高锰酸钾溶液，如发现有严重感染的病株，应立即拔除烧毁，以防传染给其他健康植株。 2、紫罗兰白锈病 紫罗兰植株受侵染后，病害部变为黄色，后期变为褐色，在叶片的表皮下产生链状的无色孢子。 解决方法：紫罗兰植株发生病害前应喷波美3~4度的石硫合剂预防，生长季节根据发病情况喷65%代森锌可湿性粉剂500~600倍液，或敌锈钠250~300倍液防治。 3、紫罗兰疫病 紫罗兰叶片发病呈圆形大病斑，潮湿时软腐，干燥时呈青白色，易晚裂。茎部发病呈水渍状、暗绿色，病部一般缢缩，但维管束不变色，患部以上部分叶片萎蔫。如植株有几处茎部发病，全株很快萎蔫干枯。幼苗感病，生长点常呈暗绿色，水渍状，软腐后枯死呈干尖状。 解决方法：除选用抗病品种、轮作栽培管理外，该病用药强调及时，发现中心病株立即用药。 [图片]4、紫罗兰霜霉病 紫罗兰播种过密、排水不良容易发生霜霉病，会引起叶片萎蒲下垂甚至整株枯死。解决方法：要注意避免栽种过密，及时清除病株，喷洒新型杀菌剂亚磅酸乙a3，浓度为每升水中加药2—3克。 5、紫罗兰黄萎病 黄萎病表现在紫罗兰植株下部叶片变黄、萎蔫，病株严重矮化，维束管理组织迅速变色。解决方法：可用1000倍高锰酸钾溶液消毒，发现严重感染的病株，应立即拔除烧毁，以防传染给其他健康植株。 6、紫罗兰叶斑病 叶斑病主要是由连作密植、通风不良、湿度过高等原因引起的。 解决方法：喷洒1%的波尔多液或25%多菌灵可湿性粉剂300~600倍液，或50%甲基托布津1000倍液，或80%代森锰锌400~600倍液。 7、紫罗兰花叶病 花叶病主要通过以桃蚜和菜蚜为主的40~50种蚜虫传毒，也可通过汁液传播。 解决方法：应及时消灭蚜虫，药剂可用植物性杀虫剂1.2%烟参碱2000~4000倍液或内吸药剂10%吡虫啉2000倍液喷雾防治。 8、紫罗兰腐烂病 腐烂病主要是由于湿度大，光照不足，通风不良而造成。解决方法：适当控制水分，透光通风。 9、紫罗兰猝倒病 猝倒病主要通过土壤和肥料传播，湿度过大，土温过高，播种过密，幼苗生长瘦弱等情况下易发生。 解决方法：发病初期用50%的代森铵水溶液300~400倍液或70%甲基托布津可湿性粉剂1000倍液浇灌。 [图片]10、蚜虫 紫罗兰虫害主要是蚜虫，积聚在叶、嫩芽及花蕾上，以刺吸式口器刺入植物组织内吸取汁液，使受害部位出现黄斑或黑斑，受害叶片皱缩、脱落，花蕾萎缩或畸形生长，严重时可使植株死亡。蚜虫能分泌蜜露，导致细菌生长，诱发煤烟病等病害。 解决方法：喷施40%乐果或氧化乐果1000~1500倍液，或杀灭菊酯2000~3000倍液或80%敌敌畏1000倍液等。 11、根结线虫病 根结线虫病主要通过灌溉及农事操作进行传播，带病土壤和残株是侵染的主要来源。解决方法：要注意进行土壤消毒，必要时也可以进行药剂处理。 紫罗兰花大色美，香气浓郁，给人一种高雅神秘的感觉，用在家居中美化环境是很不错的选择，但养护上需要注意，紫罗兰容易发生病虫害，所以要做好预防措施。

Scientific Name Lonicera caprifolium L. [图片]Common Names Perfoliate Honeysuckle, Italian Woodbine, Italian Honeysuckle, Goat Honeysuckle, Goat-leaf Honeysuckle, Perfoliate Woodbine, Early Cream Honeysuckle, Lily Among Thorns, White Italian Honeysuckle Synonyms Caprifolium atropurpureum, Caprifolium germanicum, Caprifolium hortense, Caprifolium italicum, Caprifolium magnevilleae, Caprifolium pallidum, Caprifolium perfoliatum, Caprifolium rotundifolium, Caprifolium sylvaticum, Caprifolium vulgare, Lonicera italica, Lonicera pallida, Lonicera suavis, Lonicera verna Scientific Classification Family: Caprifoliaceae Genus: Lonicera [图片]Flower Color: Creamy-white Bloom Time: Midsummer Description Lonicera caprifolium is a strong-growing, twining deciduous shrub growing up to 26.2 feet (8 m), making a large climber with oval, blue-green leaves, the upper perfoliate. Flowers are up to 2 inches (5 cm) long, scented, in terminal clusters, reddish on first opening but changing to creamy-white. [图片]How to Grow and Care Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them. When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches. This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months. Origin Native to parts of Europe, and naturalized in South East Britain and northeastern North America.

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Scientific Name Lonicera periclymenum L. [图片]Common Names Honeysuckle, Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine Synonyms Caprifolium distinctum, Caprifolium germanicum, Caprifolium periclymenum, Caprifolium semperflorens, Euchylia verticillata, Lonicera etrusca, Periclymenum vulgare Scientific Classification Family: Caprifoliaceae Genus: Lonicera [图片]Flower Color: Creamy white or yellowish Bloom Time: Midsummer Description Lonicera periclymenum is an evergreen twining climber, growing up to 23 feet (7 m) in height. It is deciduous (loses leaves in autumn) with tubular, very sweet smelling (especially during the night), two-lipped flowers, creamy white or yellowish, flushed with pink or purple and may grow up to 20 feet (6 m) tall. The leaves are grey-green and oval shaped. It is usually pollinated by moths or long-tongued bees and develops bright red berries. Lonicera periclymenum - Common Honeysuckle [图片]How to Grow and Care Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them. When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches. This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months. Origin Native to much of Europe.

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#鹤望兰 叶大姿美，花形奇特，不管布置在哪里都能给人被一种清新高雅的感觉，鹤望兰养护不能忽略病虫害的防治，不然会影响鹤望兰的布置观赏效果： [图片]鹤望兰病虫害防治： 1、鹤望兰灰斑病 鹤望兰灰斑病主要发生在叶片上，病斑初期为黑褐色斑点，多个病斑连成一片，或单个病斑扩展后呈不规则状，内灰褐色，边缘黑褐色;后期病斑干枯，在潮湿环境下病斑上出现黑色粒状物。 解决方法：及时清理病残组织，养护中避免造成植株伤口，加强通风、透光，增加叶面喷水，保持叶面洁净和湿润。发病初期，喷施800倍液退菌特广谱性杀菌剂。 2、鹤望兰炭疽病 鹤望兰炭疽病是由刺盘孢，属半知菌类真菌引起。病原菌以菌丝体在病叶、病残体上越冬，翌春借风雨和昆虫传播，从伤口侵入。老叶一般4月初发病，新叶从8月开始发病。湿度大时易发病，盆内积水、通风不良发病加重。该病主要为害叶片，病斑圆形或近圆形，边缘为红褐色细线，中央灰褐色平展，6×4厘米左右大小，分生孢子盘成熟时露出细小的黑色小粒点。一般上半年老叶发病，下半年新叶发病。 解决方法：发现病叶从边缘剪除，也可把病叶摘除集中烧毁或深埋。喷淋25%炭特灵可湿性粉剂500倍液或40%多硫胶悬剂500倍液、70%氧氯化铜悬浮剂1000倍液、25%使百克乳剂800倍液、50%克菌丹500倍液、或75%的甲基硫菌灵1000倍液。 [图片]3、鹤望兰灰霉病 解决方法：尽量少给植株喷水，增施钾肥，保证通风环境良好;在发病初期每隔10天使用75%的百菌清可湿性粉剂500倍液喷施一次，共用药2～3次。 4、鹤望兰立枯病 鹤望兰立枯病的防治要重视土壤消毒，栽植时株距不宜太小，栽植不宜过深，及时剪除老叶，加强通风及营养管理，增加植株的生长势。 解决方法：发现病株后立即拔除，并进行土壤局部消毒，生长期定期喷洒井冈霉素达到及早防治的目的。 5、介壳虫 在室内栽培通风不畅时易发生介壳虫危害，一般寄生在鹤望兰的茎干、叶片、花序上。其成虫和若虫以刺吸式口器吮吸植物汁液，使叶片卷曲，变黄老化，影响植株生长，严重时出现枯叶、落叶，直至全株死亡;同时介壳虫侵染时，在伤口排出大量蜜露，污染叶片，引起煤污病，叶上产生一层黑霉，影响鹤望兰的正常生长和开花。 解决方法：在其若虫孵化不久，尚未形成蜡质壳时进行，采用的农药可用40%乐果1000倍液，或50%敌百虫250倍液，或80%敌敌畏乳油1000～1500倍液，或2.5%溴氰菊酯乳油2000～2500倍液。一般连续喷洒1～3次，每次间隔7～10天效果较好。另外，要特别注意的是，介壳虫易对药物产生抗性，要掌握好农药的使用浓度和交替使用。 6、金龟子 金龟子幼虫称蛴螬，在地下吞食鹤望兰根部的幼嫩部分，多造成残根、断根，危害轻时使幼苗生长受阻、叶片变黄或植株瘦弱，危害重时幼苗萎黄枯死。 解决方法：在成虫发生期。将糖、醋、白酒、水按1：3：2：20比例配成液体，加入少许农药液。装入罐头瓶中，挂在种植地，进行诱杀。当虫害发生时，直接喷50%马拉松1000～1500倍液防治。 7、钻心虫 鹤望兰钻心虫又称鹤望兰螟虫，专门危害嫩梢、花蕾，虫孔处留有粪屑，危害极大。危害方式主要是以幼虫蛀入鹤望兰嫩茎，破坏生长点，造成枯心苗。 解决方法：在幼虫期用或4.5%高效氯氰菊酯乳油50毫升，或20%杀灭菊酯乳油50毫升，兑水60千克喷杀，每周1次，连喷2～3次即可。 8、蜗牛 蜗牛白天多藏在无光、潮湿的地方，夜间出来活动，特别是在大雨过后的凌晨或傍晚成群结队出来啃食鹤望兰嫩叶与花朵，影响鹤望兰的观赏价值。 解决方法：采用50%辛硫磷、80%敌敌畏等1000～1500倍液防治，每隔5～7天喷洒1次，连续3～5次。 鹤望兰是我们很喜欢的一种观赏花卉，花型奇特，叶片宽大碧绿，给人一种清新舒服感，用来布置家居将会带来很好的效果，不过鹤望兰的养护需要注意病虫害的问题，以免影响鹤望兰的观赏效果。

Scientific Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis ‘Alba’ [图片]Common Names White Bleeding Heart Synonyms Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ Scientific Classification Family: Papaveraceae Subfamily: Fumarioideae Tribe: Fumarieae Subtribe: Corydalinae Genus: Lamprocapnos [图片]Flower Color: White Bloom Time: Spring and summer Description Lamprocapnos spectabilis ‘Alba’ is a clump-forming herbaceous perennial, up to 2.5 feet (0.7 m) tall and 2 feet (60 cm) wide. The leaves are fern-like and fresh green in color. The flowers are heart-shaped and pure white in color and appear in late spring and summer. [图片]How to Grow and Care In a moist and cool climate, Bleeding Heart will grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it requires some shade. Keep plants well watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. Even then, they may be ephemeral and disappear until the fall or next spring. If you’ve recently planted your Bleeding Heart, it would be wise to mark the spot, so you don’t accidentally dig in the area while your Bleeding Heart is dormant. It prefer a rich, moist soil, but are not particular about soil pH. Bleeding Heart is not a heavy feeder, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you won’t have to feed at all. They can be started from seed, division, cutting or seedling. It is very easy to divide Bleeding Heart plants. It should be divided after flowering, so you don’t sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring, as they are emerging. It can also be started by seed or stem cuttings. Plants very often self-seed throughout your garden, although not to the point of being a nuisance. Origin Garden origin.

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#八仙花 是很常见的一种观赏花卉，花大色美，很适合盆栽种植用来布置点缀环境，但在养护中八仙花会出现叶子发黄的现象，下面爱莲说带大家去了解下八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法： [图片]八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法： 八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法：1、保持酸性土壤 引起八仙花叶片发黄的原因较多，但常见的叶子发黄大都是由于生理性缺铁引起的，因八仙花为酸性植物，如用碱性土壤栽种或长期浇含碱性较多的水或肥料，导致土壤中可溶性铁缺乏，则叶色逐渐由绿变黄。植株受害后先是枝梢顶端的幼嫩叶表现出黄叶，叶肉变成淡黄色或黄色，但叶脉仍为绿色，随着病情发展，整株叶片变成黄白色，叶缘枯焦，并自行凋萎脱落。 解决方法：每隔10～20天浇施0.2%硫酸亚铁，或0.2%磷酸二氢钾液，或150～250倍食用米醋液(轮流使用最佳，亦可叶面喷施)，连续3～4次即可使叶片由黄转绿，也能使碱性土壤变成微酸性。也可在栽培土壤中掺入硫磺粉(1立方土掺入100～200克硫磺粉)其有效期可维持2～3年;在春、秋季生长期每隔半个月施一次矾肥水或0.2%硫酸亚铁液，这样能防止黄化病发生，促进枝叶繁茂，叶色浓绿明亮。 八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法：2、合理光照 八仙花耐阴，在散射光下生长良好，忌烈日直射或阳光不足，如果光照过强叶片会发黄发白、有黄褐斑点出现，但若光照不足，枝条纤细徒长，节间距长，叶片瘦弱，大而薄，叶色发黄。 解决方法：光照过少导致八仙花叶子发黄时应增加光照时间，慢慢即可恢复;如果是光照过强引起的叶子发黄应将其移至阴凉通风处，防止日光直射。同时，常向叶上或四周洒清水，增加空气湿度，这样受害轻的叶片大都可恢复绿色。 [图片]八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法：3、干旱得宜 八仙花喜湿润，但怕积水和干旱。若浇水过多，盆土内部缺氧，致使根部腐烂，叶片便逐渐变黄、暗淡无光，甚至脱落;若浇水过少，盆土过干，就会造成根系经常吸收不到水分，叶尖干枯发黄，下部叶片枯黄脱落。 [图片]解决方法：八仙花浇水应干透浇透，浇水过多时暂停浇水，并松土晾干，待干透了再浇水，浇水过少则应先浇少量水，过半小时后再浇透水，同时向枝叶喷洒清水。 八仙花叶子发黄的解决方法：4、正确施肥 八仙花在施肥过程中，若追肥过浓或施入生肥，易引起“烧根”，导致叶片焦黄脱落，但若长期没有换土加肥，尤其是缺氮肥，养分供应不足，叶片也会失绿发黄。 解决方法：八仙花施肥过多引起叶子发黄时应暂停施肥，并增加浇水量，使肥料从盆底排水孔流出或立即倒盆除去肥料，然后用清水冲洗土壤，换进新的培养土。如果是施肥过少造成的叶子发黄应及时换入新的含氮素的肥沃、疏松土壤，并每10天左右浇一次稀薄液肥或复合肥，并注意及时浇“还魂”水，不久，叶片将由黄变绿。 八仙花是我们很喜欢的一种花卉植物，花大、花色多而且花期较长，盆栽种植用来点缀家居环境的效果非常好，但要注意养护，如果养护不当造成八仙花叶子发黄那就会影响它的点缀效果，以上是八仙花叶子发黄常见原因及解决方法，希望对大家有所帮助。