动态第747页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年09月16日

Rust, Puccinia heterospora, is a fungal disease that infects leaves and stems of hollyhock. Lower leaves show the condition first, and the disease progresses upward during the growing season. The extent and severity depend on weather conditions.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis First symptoms appear on the leaves as individual, yellow, circular spots about one-eighth inch in size that enlarge to one-quarter inch or more in diameter. On the underside of the leaves, swellings or blisters soon emerge within these spots. At this stage, the symptoms resemble insect or mite galls found on many other plants; however, such galls are rare on hollyhock. The swellings continue to develop and in a few more days, they release masses of reddishbrown spores, covering the entire undersurface of the leaf. You can easily identify the disease in the field by the round pustules that are covered by loosely attached red spores. Leaves that are heavily infected eventually turn gray or tan and die. Rust spots may also occur on the stems and leaf petioles and occasionally on green flower parts.[图片]Life Cycle The reddish spores are easily spread by splashing water, rain, and wind. The fungus overwinters in plant debris and possibly in overwintering, living plant tissue. Symptoms will appear very early the following spring when weather conditions are favorable. Hollyhock rust is not extremely common throughout the state. Fortunately, we can usually enjoy colorful hollyhocks in spite of the disease, though the foliage may become unattractive in wet years.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Use disease-free plants.Start plants from seeds and place them some distance from infected stock. 2. Improve air circulation. Space plants out in a dry sunny location so that moisture is quickly evaporated from the foliage. 3. Keep plants healthy. Maintain the plants in a vigorous growing condition through a good fertility program. Irrigate during dry periods but keep the foliage dry, if possible. 4.Remove infested material. Remove old plant material and bury, burn, or compost it at the end of the flowering season. Picking off the first infected leaves as they appear may also be helpful. However, this practice alone often is not successful in controlling rust.[图片]5. Control weeds. Destroy common mallow weeds in the vicinity as they may be hosts to the rust disease and a source of hollyhock infection. 6. Use fungicides if necessary. Consider using fungicides to supplement cultural control methods. Direct the applications primarily at the lower surface of the leaves and treat at approximately 7 to 10 day intervals. Reapply if rainfall exceeds 1/2 inch during the period. Pesticides registered for use include chlorothalonil (Daconil), sulfur, mancozeb, and maneb. All are protective fungicides and prevent rather than eradicate the fungus. Start using a fungicide prior to the first sign of disease development.

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2017年09月16日

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus and is seen as a light gray or whitish powder on the surface of leaves. It occurs following warm days and cool nights often being seen in the fall and spring. The disease is considered more unsightly than harmful. Death of the plant is rare.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Even though each species of powdery mildew attacks only a narrow range of hosts, there are 11,000 species of the powdery mildew fungi, and many ornamentals are hosts. Superficial powdery patches appear on leaf surfaces, young stems, flowers, and even fruit. The powder is composed of mycelium and colorless chains of spores on upright stalks. Later there may be dark "pepper-like" spots among the powder (the spots are spore-producing bodies). As the disease progresses, leaves may be dwarfed, curl, turn yellow, and drop off. Flowers may be deformed. Fruit crops may be reduced, with the fruit misshapen and covered with powdery patches.[图片]Life Cycle Powdery mildew commonly winters over as mycelial mats in dormant buds or on plant stems and fallen leaves. During humid and warm spring weather (with cool nights), infected buds open and spread conidia (spores) to new host tissue. These conidia do not require free moisture in order to germinate as many fungi do. A new generation may be produced every 72 hours, if conditions are right. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Purchase resistant varieties. This is the best strategy for avoiding powdery mildew. 2. Pruning. Prune out diseased tissue and destroy it. Gather and destroy dead leaves and stems in the fall. This is the source of next season’s inoculum.[图片]3. Keep plants in good vigor. Space the plants for good air circulation. Give the plants plenty of sun, as too much shade seems to make the problem worse. Try to avoid overhead watering and do not handle the plant when the foliage is wet as this will spread the disease. Water early in the day. 4. Fungicides. Use fungicides as a preventive treatment before a rain for maximum protection. Spray both sides of leaves and flowers well with sulfur, mancozeb, maneb, chlorothalonil (Daconil), cinnamaldehyde (Cinnamite), or copper-containing fungicides.

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2017年09月16日

Also called red spot or measles, this disease affects all aboveground parts of the peony. Caused by the fungal pathogen, Cladosporium paeoniae, this disease occurs each spring just before bloom. It is mostly found on older varieties and is not immediately lethal, though repeated bouts for several years will affect plant vitality. It does not cause early leaf drop or stem dieback but causes the plant to be unsightly and lose its attractiveness as spots coalesce to form blighted areas.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Small, circular, red or purplish spots first appear superficially on the upper surface of young leaves. Later in the season they coalesce into large, glossy, irregular, dark purple blotches while the underside of the leaves becomes a dull chestnut brown. Short reddish-brown streaks appear on the young stems and petioles, and eventually the whole plant may be affected with purplish or brownish red spots. Life Cycle The late-season blotch phase provides the overwintering inoculum for the next year's infection, especially in older varieties. Fungicides work only to prevent infection; once the disease takes hold, there is no treatment.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Remove debris. Be sure to remove all foliage to ground level each fall and destroy. Infected debris should not be added to the compost pile. 2. Apply fungicides. When the shoots are 2–4 inches high and the weather is cool, overcast, and damp, spray weekly with a fungicide until the flowers open. Reapply following rain or overhead watering. Mancozeb is currently registered for controlling peony blotch.[图片]3. Resistant varieties. Replant with newer resistant varieties that are vigorous and thick-stemmed. 4. Watering and air circulation. Provide good air circulation by proper spacing of plants and foliage thinning to reduce humidity and promote leaf drying. Water early in the day, so that leaves dry thoroughly by night; drip irrigation is best.

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2017年09月16日

This creeping juniper (Juniperus) died from overwatering Overwatering is one of the more common causes of plant problem. Heavy and poorly drained soils are susceptible to becoming waterlogged. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they cannot absorb the oxygen needed to function normally. The longer the air is cut off, the greater the root damage. The dying roots decay and cannot supply the plants with nutrients and water. Damage caused by over watering is frequently misdiagnosed as pest damage. However, pest damage rarely causes roots to concentrate near the surface of the soil. Plants stressed or injured by waterlogging can become abnormally susceptible to certain fungal pathogens. Phytophthora spp. for example, cause root rot most often in soils that are periodically waterlogged. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Plants growing in soil that is too wet suffer from a lack of oxygen which leads to the death of roots and a loss of vigor in the plant. Stunted slow growth with yellowing leaves is a symptom of over watering. Plants may suffer from leaf scorch or leaf burn. Water soaked spots and blisters (Oedema) may appear on stems and leaves. The crown of the plant may rot. Damaged roots have little defense against the entrance of rot causing soil organisms. And so the plant dies of root rot. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants. [图片]2. Investigate using water conserving drip emitters or soaker hoses on a timer. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and can promote fungal disease. Also make sure you don't have leaking irrigation pipes or downspouts that are keeping the soil too wet in a location. 3. Add mulch to individual plants or beds. Add organic matter such as compost or rotted manure to plantings ---organic matter can improve drainage in heavy clay soils. Take care to keep mulch away from stems. 4. Use appropriate plants. Evaluate your site for new plantings. Choose plants with the appropriate water and cultural needs that will thrive on your site. Use water loving plants for moist poorly drained soils. Also consider native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands and fewer pest problems. [图片]5. Water only when necessary. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun and may recover on their own later in the day as the sun moves. Make sure soil is not too wet based on the needs of particular plants before watering; you may end up by over watering. 6. A dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or soil probe to check for moisture. Check for overwatering by digging into root zone or knocking a small potted plant out of its container. Soil that has been too long without oxygen usually smells sour or rotten. [图片]7. Give priority to watering newly planted trees and shrubs. Young plants have not had sufficient time to establish deep root systems, and depend on surface water for survival. Do not let the root balls of newly planted trees and shrubs dry out completely or become too saturated. Before watering use a soil probe or a hand trowel. Remember that when plants are fully established, they will require less water.

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2017年09月16日

Angular leaf spot is a common bacterial disease of Goldsturm coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii 'Goldsturm') Two common leaf spots affect rudbeckia in the St. Louis area. Both rarely endanger the survival of the plant but both can cause depreciation of the foliage. One is caused by a fungus and the other by a bacterium.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Septoria leaf spot is caused by the fungus Septoria rudbeckiae and causes small 1/8 - 1/4 inch spots on the leaves. Small, black, pinpoint size fruiting bodies (pycnidia) form in the center of the spots. Lower leaves are affected first. The disease then moves up the plant by splashing water. Angular leaf spot of rudbeckia is most common on the cultivar 'Goldsturm'. It begins as small, brown, angular spots on lower leaves, which may appear water-soaked but can quickly expand to affect the whole leaf. It begins at the base of the plant and moves up. Angular leaf spot is caused by a bacterium. The absence of fungal pycnidia and the presence of bacterial streaming under microscopic examination can be used to differentiate angular leaf spot from septoria leaf spot.[图片]Life Cycle Both organisms overwinter in infected debris in the garden. Initial infection occurs in late spring or early summer on the lower leaves and then spread up the plant. Plants are rarely killed, but plants can look unsightly by early fall. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Clean up old foliage each fall and then live with the disease. Sanitation can go a long way to helping control both diseases. Collect and dispose of old foliage in the fall or by late winter to help prevent early infection.[图片]2. Provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Keeping the leaves dry and help prevent movement of the fungi or bacteria by not watering overhead. If irrigation is necessary, use soaker hoses or at least water early in the day so the foliage can dry before nightfall.[图片]3. Apply chemical protectants. Septoria leaf spot can be controlled with fungicides containing chlorothalonil or copper. Angular leaf spot can be controlled by applying a copper-based fungicide such as Bordeaux mixture as needed started in early spring. Kocide is also effective. Apply at the first signs of disease to protect healthy yet unaffected foliage.

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2017年09月16日

Leaf spots on English ivy are caused by either a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris, or a fungus, Colletotrichum trichellum. Both can cause defoliation, but the fungal leaf spot is more active in causing stem infection.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Bacterial leaf spot first begins as light green, watersoaked spots that enlarge and become brown or brownish black in the center. On mature leaves the margin of the spot may be red. An infection in the leaf petiole causes the petiole to become black. Infection can move into the stem causing tips to turn black and die. The fungal leaf spot produces large tan to brown spots on the leaves. They do not have a red margin. Black specks, fungal fruiting bodies, may be visible in the dead tissue, giving the spots a speckled appearance. The fungus can also infect stems, resulting in tip dieback.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Remove and destroy infected leaves and stems. Regardless of whether the spots were caused by a bacterial or fungal pathogen, removing diseased leaves will slow the spread of the disease. 2. Avoid wetting the foliage. Wetting the foliage, especially in late afternoon or evening, facilitates the development and spread of leaf spot organisms. Water early in the morning so the foliage dries before night.[图片]3. Prune out and destroy all diseased plant parts in the fall. Thin the planting to allow better air movement and promote drying. 4. Live with the disease. The above cultural practices are generally sufficient to keep the disease from becoming a major problem. 5. Use fungicides. Sprays can be effective against both bacterial and fungal leaf spot diseases. They must be applied on a regular schedule and reapplied if rainfall is prevalent. copper fungicides are generally effective in controlling both leaf spots.

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2017年09月16日

Herbicide damage can be hard to diagnose. A trained individual can generally tell when damage from an herbicide is a possible cause, but validation requires a laboratory test of the plant tissue and/or the soil while the chemical is still present. Such tests can cost between $65 and $150 per sample or more. Individual tests need to be made for each suspected herbicide. Testing may not be available for some herbicides. More commonly, a circumstantial case is made after a thorough examination of the damaged plant(s), surrounding plants, the pattern of damage, the likelihood of damage occurring given the suspected point of herbicide application, and the history of the symptoms.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis General symptoms can include one or more of the following symptoms: curling or cupped leaves, stunted growth, discolored leaves, or leaves with dead spots. The same herbicide may cause different symptoms on different plant species. Since herbicides do not leave a "calling card" like mites, insects, and diseases (but the damage they cause can be mistaken for herbicide damage), it is advised to rule these out first. Other disorders that produce symptoms that can resemble herbicide damage include virus diseases, adverse weather, salt damage, drought, soil compaction, misapplied fertilizers, root stress, and nutrient deficiencies. Excluding these as causes requires close examination of the site and attention to patterns. Is the pattern of damaged plants consistent with drifting spray? Is more than just one kind of plant affected? Did the symptoms appear within one or two days (in most cases) of the suspected application of an herbicide? Were any lawn weed control products used in the area, including weed and feed products containing an herbicide? The answer to these and other questions can help make a circumstantial case of herbicide damage.[图片]Recovery Prognosis Recovery of plants damaged by herbicides is dependent upon many factors including amount of initial damage incurred as well as what herbicide caused the damage. Trees and shrubs that receive minor damage from a broadleaf herbicide such as 2,4-D are likely to recover or have only minor damage. Trees and shrubs that have been damaged by dicamba which was applied to a lawn area and then was washed down into the root system of trees and shrubs can show damage for several years as they gradually recover. Plants damaged by soil sterilant herbicides are the least likely to recover.[图片]Plants that show signs of growing out of the problem will likely recover. Plants that appear to lose vigor may not. The survival of damaged plants can be increased by reducing other stresses. Water during dry periods, fertilize according to a soil test report to increase vigor, and watch for and control any insect or disease problems.

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2017年09月16日

Hail can severely damage all plants. The severity of the damage depends on the size of the hailstones and the time of the year that the hailstorm occurs. The later in the growing season that hail damage occurs the less time plants have to recover and store energy for the winter.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis On annuals and perennials leaves, stems and flowers may be shredded, torn and knocked off. On trees and shrubs leaves, twigs and branches may be tattered, split and broken. Fruit may be pitted and knocked to the ground. The scars from hail damage to trees occur on the upper side of branches and on the side of the trunk facing the storm. The tree may take a very long time to recover. The damage increases the vulnerability of the tree to decay causing fungi and insect activity.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Evaluate damage. Assess the damage to the plants and estimate how long they have left to recover from the damage before the onset of winter. 2. Cleanup. Severely damaged trees and shrubs with broken branches should have them removed promptly. Less severe wounds may slowly heal naturally over a period of time. Damaged fruit should be removed. Do not fertilize hail damaged trees. 3. Fertilize. If the damage is early in the growing season, annuals and perennials may benefit from a light application of fertilizer. Immediately remove any damaged leaves from these plants.[图片]4. Replace. Annuals and perennials that do not show signs of recovery within a week should be replaced with new plants. 5. Give good after care. Water the damaged plants during the growing season giving them at least one inch of water each week. 6. Mulch. Applying two to three inches of mulch around the base of damaged plants may help them survive during the winter.

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2017年09月16日

Foliar nematodes, Aphelenchoides spp., are considered disease-causing organisms that attack plant parts above the ground in over 200 host plants. They are an emerging problem for gardeners because of this broad host range, ability to spread quickly and lack of symptom recognition. Additionally, there are few products registered for use in the home landscape that can limit their infection and spread. Some of the most common hosts include anemone, strawberry, hosta, phlox, verbena, zinnia, carnation, impatiens, begonia, fern and African violet.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis The two most prominent foliar nematodes are A. ritzemabosi called the chrysanthemum foliar nematode and A. fragariae called the strawberry crimp or fern nematode. Both are serious pathogens of ornamental plants both in the greenhouse and outside in the garden. However, their host ranges rarely overlap except on African violet, begonia, gloxinia, Siberian bugloss, violet and verbena. The most prominent symptoms occur in the leaves of infected plants. Two interveinal symptom types are commonly found. The first is a development of linear lesions between the leaf veins causing the leaf to become striped in appearance. Plants that have parallel venation like hosta are likely to display this leaf pattern. The second leaf symptom which is more common is the development of angular, water-soaked lesions occurring between the veins of netted-veined plants. These lesions will become brown and eventually turn black and perhaps drop out of the leaf leaving a ragged, wind-tattered appearance. Other symptoms may appear as stunting, leaf proliferation or bunching of leaves around the crown, multicolored leaves, lack of flowering and plant death. It is not uncommon to find new leaves emerging without symptoms while older leaves turn brown and collapse or fall. This occurs because the spread of nematodes requires free moisture. Lack of water on the leaves causes them to become localized so that they cannot move to new plant parts. Thus, under dry conditions, new leaves may appear unaffected.[图片]Life Cycle Unique to this group of pathogens, foliar nematodes live in and feed upon the aerial portion of the plant, mostly leaves, and are rarely associated with the soil unless it is within infested plant debris. A common over wintering site is within the crown of the plant where new leaves will emerge in spring. They commonly spread from plant to plant by splashing water and leaf contact. Nematodes can swim in a thin film of water to move upward towards leaves where they enter stomata. Another way they spread is by vegetative cuttings of leaves, stems and crowns. Gardeners who are active in propagation are likely to move the pathogen with every division. Nematodes remain active, feeding on leaf tissue and repeating their life cycle multiple times in the growing season. Once it becomes cooler, they will migrate towards the plant crown, live in dormant buds or leaf debris.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Sanitation: remove all infested debris from the plant and ground. This should be buried or burned. Floors and benches of propagation areas should be thoroughly cleaned of debris. Tools and containers should be heat treated in an oven or steamed for 30 minutes at 180 F. 2. Destroy infested plants: it is almost impossible to rid the plant of foliar nematodes. Therefore, it is best to destroy infested plants. Plants that are suspected of being infected should be isolated from healthy plants. 3. Select disease-free plants: Only healthy, nematode-free plants should be purchased and used for propagation stock. Contact between plants and extended periods of free moisture from overhead irrigation should be avoided. Dormant plant material can be treated with warm water (120 F) for 15 minutes to eliminate the nematode infestation on valuable planting stock.[图片]4. Resistance: Some resistant cultivars of chrysanthemum are available. At this time, no resistant varieties are known for other garden plants. 5. Pesticides: Commercial growers who are certified for using nematicides can control foliar nematodes on greenhouse and nursery crops. There are no nematicides labeled for residential users.

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2017年09月16日

The water needs of different plants vary greatly. Some factors to consider include the species and age of the plant, the type of soil in which it is planted, and its exposure. The symptoms of drought stress may be similar to the symptoms of over watering or even to some pest and disease problems. It is important to identify the causes of the problem in order to take corrective steps.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis With mild water deficiency, plants are usually slow growing and stunted. Some plant leaves turn from shiny to dull at first signs of stress. Grasses, which are the first to show the loss of water in the landscape, will show signs of wilt. Footprints in wilted grass persist instead of disappearing as grass blades spring upright. Under long term water stress, plants might permanently wilt or stop growing; they may have diminished crops and discolored leaves, flower buds and flowers. Plants may eventually die. Bare spots will appear in ground covers. Water-stressed plantings may show the effects of weeds, insect pests, and diseases.[图片]Drought symptoms can be very confusing, and can vary with different types of plants. Woody plants under drought stress can have many symptoms including yellowing, wilting leaves that develop early fall color and burning or scorching on edges of leaves. Plants may drop some or all of their leaves and appear dead. Most established woody plants recover when watered. Plants that appear to be dead, having dropped all or most of their leaves, might recover when watered. Scrape the outer layer of a twig or the bark to see if a green layer exists indicating it is still alive. Do not remove this plant the first season. Wait until the following year to see if it recovers.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Water well. Deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants. 2. Investigate using water conserving drip emitters or soaker hoses on a timer. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and can promote fungal disease.[图片]3. Add mulch to individual plants or beds. Add organic matter such as compost or rotted manure to plantings ---drought becomes less of a problem as soils with high humus levels hold more moisture. Take care to keep mulch away from stems. 4. Plant selection. Use appropriate plants, which catalogs and plant tags often marked as drought tolerant or resistant. Also consider native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands and fewer pest problems. 5. Water only when necessary, based on condition of the plant. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun, and then recover when watered. Also, a dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or soil probe to check for moisture.[图片]6. Give priority to watering newly planted trees and shrubs during periods of drought. Young plants have not had sufficient time to establish deep root systems, and depend on surface water for survival. Do not let the root balls of newly planted trees and shrubs dry out completely or become too saturated. Before watering use a soil probe or a hand trowel. Inspect plants several times a week during drought conditions.

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