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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pythium blight, also called cottony blight or grease spot, is a fungal disease of turfgrasses. All turfgrasses, warm and cool season, are susceptible to attack. This disease is most common during hot, very humid weather especially in golf courses, less so in home lawns. The disease can spread rapidly, killing large areas of seedling or established turf in as little as a day during conditions of high temperature (80 degrees to 90 degrees F), high soil moisture, and little air movement. The disease can also occur at lower temperatures during cool (55 degrees to 65 degrees F) wet weather. When root and crown tissue is attacked, Pythium root and crown rot results. This disease occurs mostly during warm to hot weather. Wet, humid conditions favor the disease. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Pythium blight is most readily recognized as small spots or patches of blighted grass that suddenly appear during warm, wet periods. In the early stages, the grass leaves may appear water-soaked, slimy (greasy), and dark. As the disease progresses, the leaves shrivel and the patches fade from green to light brown. When observing these patches in early morning, cottony fungal growth can usually be seen on the foliage, although not always. In many cases, these patches develop into diffused streaks that follow water drainage patterns or mowing patterns. These streaks are caused by the water or equipment picking up the fungus and spreading it along its path. Under favorable conditions for the disease development, these streaks may coalesce to form large areas of dead grass. If a sudden drop in temperature or humidity or the application of a fungicide halts the development of Pythium blight, distinct strawcolored spots develop. Grass blades may twist and collapse at the lesion. [图片]Life Cycle The pathogen survives over winter and periods adverse to disease development as spores associated with debris in the soil. It can be moved from one area to another by soil movement, by transporting diseased plants or plant parts, and by equipment, shoes, or surface water. Damping-off, seed decay, or a seedling blight of turf grasses can also be caused by Pythium fungi. These fungi may also attack the plant roots and crowns, causing reduced growth, off-color, and thinning (Pythium root and crown rot). Diseased plants serve as infection centers from which the pathogen spreads. Movement from these areas can be rapid in wet or humid, hot weather. High nitrogen fertility favors the disease on many grass varieties. Alkaline- or calcium-deficient soils also tend to favor the disease. [图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Fertilizer. Maintain grass growth by low to moderate rates of balanced fertilizers. Maintain soil pH in the neutral to slightly acid range. Test the soil every 3–5 years to understand and correct nutrient deficiencies. 2. Watering. If your lawn has the disease, do not water in the late afternoon or early evening. Generally speaking, water in the early morning. 3. Thatch. Remove thatch when greater than 1/2 inch. 4. Pruning. Selectively prune trees and shrubs growing near the area to improve air circulation. 5. Mowing. Increasing the mowing height and following other practices that promote good root growth will lessen damage from Pythium root rot. 6.Fungicides. A preventive fungicide program may be needed to stop the development of Pythium during extended periods of warm, humid weather. Applications of fungicides recommended for control of Pythium blights should be made to areas with a history of Pythium activity when conditions are favorable for development or when symptoms first appear. Repeat applications as necessary. Fungicide applications may be needed 7 to 21 days after planting to protect young seedlings and more often during high rainfall periods. Pesticides registered for use include chlorothalonil (Daconil), fosetyl-Al, mancozeb, and maneb. [图片]Organic Strategies Strategies 2, 3, 4 and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
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Necrotic ring spot, Leptosphaeria korrae, and summer patch, Magneporthe poae, are two serious, fungal root and crown rots of Kentucky bluegrass, annual bluegrass, fescue, and bentgrass. These diseases were previously referred to as Fusarium blight syndrome. Necrotic ring spot and summer patch cause identical symptoms and cannot be easily distinguished in the field. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis NECROTIC RING SPOT is most common in cool weather. It usually occurs during the months of March through May, and September through November. Symptoms consist of dead circles or arches that range in size from several inches to several feet in diameter. Often, the disease will create a frog-eye or a doughnut-shape in the lawn. A frog-eye is a small, circular patch of green lawn surrounded by a ring of dead or dying grass. Microscopic examination of the grass crowns and leaf sheaths may reveal the presence of the dark hyphae of the fungus. SUMMER PATCH is most common in warm weather. Symptoms are present during the months of May through September. The symptoms are similar to those of necrotic ring spot, consisting of dead circles and arches that range in size from several inches to several feet in diameter. The summer patch fungus also produces the microscopic, dark hyphae on the surface of the grass crowns and the leaf sheaths. These hyphae tend to be larger than those found with necrotic ring spot, but are much less common on the plant tissue. When plants with summer patch are dug up, the roots are dark brown to black, hard, and dry-rotted in contrast to the white color of healthy crowns and roots. [图片]Life Cycle Necrotic ring spot fungus survives in soil and infects the crown and roots of grass plants. It commonly occurs when wet weather is followed by hot, dry periods. The range of temperature and moisture conditions at which this disease develops is much broader than that for summer patch, so disease outbreaks can occur from mid-spring through late fall. [图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Fertilizer.Use 1 to 3 lbs. of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in the fall (September through November). Do not apply even small amounts of fertilizer during the June- August stress period because this will tend to stimulate the disease. Therefore, fertilize only in autumn (September through November). Maintain a pH above 6.2. 2. Thatch. Thatch (the layer of organic matter between the mineral soil and the green grass) should be no more than 1/2 inch in thickness. Thatch can be removed by vertical slicing machines and/or aeration during the spring and early fall. Over a longer period, thatch will be reduced by using good cultural practices. 3. Mowing. As the cutting height of turf is decreased, its susceptibility to disease increases. Consequently, cut lawns at 2- to 3- inch height and often enough so that less than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed during each mowing. 4. Watering. Deep watering is essential for proper root growth. More frequent watering provides an ideal environment for disease development. Soaker hoses are very useful for supplementary watering on steeper slopes where sprinklers are inefficient and apply water too fast. The harmful effects of excessive temperature can be reduced by a light sprinkling of the surface at midday. 5. Cultivars.Select resistant cultivars. Before seeding, consider recommended cultivars that are resistant to necrotic ring spot and summer patch. 6. Fungicides. Chemical treatment is efficient only when good cultural practices are first used. Thoroughly water areas with a history of these diseases several days before applying a fungicide. Apply in early to mid-June and a second application two to three weeks later. Use a preventive fungicide program with recommended fungicides. Read labels for proper fungicides and always adhere to the rates and procedures recommended on the label. Pesticides registered for use include azoxystrobin (Heritage), chlorothalonil (Daconil), iprodione (Chipco), thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336), and ziram. Organic Strategies Strategies 2, 3, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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2017年09月17日
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Mushrooms growing in lawns are common occurrences especially during rainy weather. They live off decaying organic matter in the soil, often decaying tree roots, and are not harmful to the lawn. They will naturally disappear as they age or they may be collected and composted, knocked down with a rake or hoe, or mowed over with your lawnmower. Mushrooms should never be collected and eaten unless you are expert in their identification. To the novice gardener, many poisonous mushrooms can look very similar to edible ones. Don’t take a chance. Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings. They will be the focus of the remainder of this sheet. Fairy rings are caused by many different soilinhabiting fungi of the class Basidiomycetes. These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass. Fairy ring fungi do not attack grass directly, but break down organic matter in the soil. As a result, nitrogen is released which the grass uses, causing it to grow and develop a contrasting green ring. In cases where the mycelia of the fungus get very dense and inhibit water movement into the soil, grass in the arc may turn brown. Mycelia may also deplete soil nutrients and produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide. The mushrooms that appear after rainfall are the fruiting bodies of the fungus. The organic matter fairy rings break down is often old tree stumps, roots, logs, lumber, and other larger pieces of organic material in the soil below the lawn. Once this material is depleted, the fairy ring will disappear. This may take considerable time. Several fairy rings may appear relatively close together, especially on lawns that exist on sites that were previously wooded areas. When this occurs, it becomes noticeable that fairy rings do not cross each other, as fungal activity ceases when fungi from different rings contact each other. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fastgrowing grass develop anytime from green-up in the spring (most common) until the first hard frost in the fall. These rings are most commonly between 2 and 15 feet in diameter, although they may be larger or smaller. Mushrooms or puffballs may appear under wet conditions in the same ring pattern. In some cases, a ring of brown or dead grass may appear. [图片]Life Cycle Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agaricus campestris, Lycoperdon spp., and Scleroderma spp. being the most common. These fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch. Fairy ring starts from a piece of mycelium or spore at a single point feeding in the thatch layer or on soil organic matter. The uniform outward growth of the fungus results in the development of rings. Under certain conditions, and with certain fairy ring fungi, a ring of dead grass develops. Some of the responsible fungi have been shown to penetrate and kill root cells resulting in dead rings of grass. In addition, the mycelia of some fairy ring fungi are reported to be hydrophobic, creating a waterimpervious layer resulting in drought-stress problems for the grass. Once the soil under this mycelial layer becomes dry, it is very difficult to wet, and the roots of the grass plant die. [图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Fertilizer. Use of a nitrogen fertilizer can mask the symptoms of fairy ring by causing the rest of the lawn to green up. Using a soil needle (deep root feeder) to aerate and irrigate dead and dying rings is recommended. 2. Removal. Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn. Destroying existing turf may be required in persistent cases. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to 2 feet wide on each side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the ring and nonring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated area with water. Reseed or install clean, ring-free sod. 3. Thatch. Eliminate thatch buildup with a dethatching program. 4. Fungicides. Some fungicides are available for suppression of fairy ring, however, they may be only temporary as the decaying material may still be present. Organic Strategies Strategies 2 and 3 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
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Brown patch (Rhizoctonia solani) is a fungus which attacks most commonly cultivated grasses. Differences in susceptibility exists within cultivars of the various grass species. Bent grass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue and annual bluegrass are the primary hosts. There are various species of Rhizoctonia which can attack grass plants from seedling stage too mature plants and are pathogenic over a wide range of environmental conditions. Brown patch may also be referred to as Rhizoctonia blight. Large brown patch is used to describe the disease in zoysiagrass. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Symptoms vary depending on the turfgrass species and mowing height. Susceptibility of the cultivar, management practices and weather conditions determine the degree of injury. More than one fungi may also be present in the lawn. As the name suggests, symptoms include small circular patches of brown, lifeless grass. These patches often enlarge and join together, reaching diameters of six feet or more. Newly established lawns may be more severely damaged than established lawns. In warm-season grasses such as zoysia the most common symptom is a circular pattern of brown grass with a yellowish colored ring (smoke ring) of wilted grass at the perimeter of the diseased area. The leaves can easily be pulled from the stolons within the smoke ring because the fungus destroys the tissue at the base of the leaf sheath. First appearing symptoms are small circular patches of water-soaked dark grass that soon wilt and turn light brown. Stolons often remain green. As the disease develops, the circular patches enlarge, become more apparent and new green leaves may emerge in the center of the circular areas. [图片]Life Cycle Mid to late summer is the time when the best conditions are present for disease development. This requires the presence of an active fungi, vigorous growth of a susceptible grass, daytime temperatures ranges between 75 degrees and 85 degrees F, the presence of free moisture on the foliage and night temperatures below 68 degrees F. This fungus feeds on dead organic matter in the soil, but will attack grass when the right environmental conditions arise. Hot, humid conditions promote spread of the fungi. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Fertilizer. Don't fertilize warm-season grasses in early spring and summer, particularly with soluble nitrogen. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizers. Fertilize to maintain adequate but not lush growth during the growing season. Properly fertilized turf will recover quicker from disease injury than will under-fertilized turf. 2. Collect waste. Remove and dispose of clippings from infected areas or when conditions are conducive to disease development. Mulching mowers that chop clippings to 1/4 inch or less do not contribute to brown patch development. Mow only when the grass is dry, being sure to remove no more than one third of the top growth. 3. Prune. Prune trees and shrubs to allow air movement and light penetration to reach the turfgrass. 4. Watering. Water to a depth of about 6 inches no more than once a week. More frequent watering provides an ideal environment for disease development. 5. Drainage. Provide good surface and subsurface water drainage to reduce humidity in the turf canopy. 6. Fungicide. Use a preventive fungicide program with recommended fungicides. Read labels for proper fungicides and their use. 7. Replant dead areas. The disease can occur quickly, spread rapidly and then stop abruptly as environmental conditions change. Frequently, the best and only recourse is to replant dead areas in warmseason lawns in early summer. Organic Strategies Strategies 2, 3, 4, 5 and 7 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#吊兰半球盔蚧 分布与危害 分布山东、江苏、河北、新疆、广东、山西、贵州、辽宁、河南等地。其寄主有吊兰、象牙红、龟背竹、山茶、棕榈、马蹄莲、米兰、君子兰、苏铁、栀子花、海棠、龙船花等。低龄幼虫在叶片背面吸汁为害,龄期增大,部分虫体转移到嫩枝上为害,并引发煤污病,造成叶片发黄,生长不良。 形态特征 雌成虫卵圆形,棕褐色。体背光滑,向上隆起,呈半球形,直径2.5毫米,高2毫米。体背面高度硬化,形成许多圆形或卵圆形网眼。网眼间直径基本相等。壳上有许多短小的绒毛,边缘最多。足细 长。若虫初孵时椭圆形,浅粉红色或浅黄色,长0.2毫米。复眼小,黑色。足细长,尾须细。低龄幼虫呈浅黄色,背面变脊状,有沟,半透明,从背面隐约可见足。虫龄增大,背面增高,且出现红褐色小点,随后逐渐增加,充满沟间,体色变为浅红褐色。卵为长椭圆形,浅粉红色,长0.2毫米。 发生规律 1年发生3代。各代若虫孵化期,分别在5月下旬、8月下旬和1月上旬。雌虫产卵盔形介壳下。每雌虫产卵300粒左右。雌成虫产卵后死亡。 防治方法 5月前刮除枝条、叶上盔形介。若虫孵化期 选喷40%d啶虫.毒乳油(如国光必治)1500-2000倍液防治,连用1-2次,间隔7-10天。
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Miss Chen
2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#玫瑰三节叶蜂 相关图片 [图片][图片]分布与危害 玫瑰三节叶蜂属是近几年来玫瑰上新发现的害虫,成虫产卵于玫瑰嫩茎上,造成嫩茎干枯折断,幼虫嚼食叶片和叶柄,造成鲜花产量大减,严重地块可造成绝产。 形态特征 幼虫刚孵化时体乳白色,二龄后体色变绿,头壳呈黑色,四龄后体色由绿变黄,老熟幼虫胸部绿色,腹部橘黄色并由腹部向后黄色逐渐加深,幼虫胸足二对,腹足七对,第六七对不发达退化成瘤状,老熟幼虫体长13.1至16.8毫米。雄成虫体长7.9至8.7毫米,雌成虫体长6.3至7.1毫米,头、胸及足黑色?具不明显的金属光泽,腹部橘黄色,腹部背板部分黑色,触角黑色棒状共三节,第三节最长,约为第一、二节的8倍,并向端部逐渐加粗,复眼黑色,下唇须5节。翅脉、翅痣黑色,翅痣圆形。 发生规律 玫瑰三节叶蜂在山东省平阴县一年发生5代,世代重叠。以老熟幼虫在玫瑰或蔷薇根部周围土壤中做茧越冬。越冬代自4月初化蛹,中旬开始羽化出成虫并产卵。越冬代羽化盛期在4月下旬到5月初,第一代在6月上、中旬,第二代在7月上中旬,第三代在8月中下旬,第四代在9月中下旬,第五代幼虫老熟后做茧越冬。 防治方法 ①成虫发生期,用40%辛硫磷乳油5000倍液进行喷雾。 ②幼虫期,一至二龄幼虫为最佳防治期。此时虫口密度小,危害小,且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷(国光依它)1000倍液,或国光乙刻(20%氰戊菊酯)1500倍液+乐克(5.7%甲维盐)2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒(必治)1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫,可连用1-2次,间隔7-10天。可轮换用药,以延缓抗性的产生。 ③清除虫源。将产卵枝条剪掉并集中销毁。在冬季或生长季节,扫除枯枝落叶并销毁。玫瑰根基培土5至10厘米,使蛹不能羽化或使羽化后的成虫不能出土而死亡。 ④保护利用天敌。捕食性天敌有中华大螳螂、蜘蛛等。蚂蚁也可拖食一至三龄幼虫,啃食茧内幼虫、蛹等。该虫的寄生性天敌有姬蜂,该寄生蜂可在各代幼虫体内寄生,并在茧内化蛹。
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2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#蔷薇叶蜂 相关图片 [图片][图片][图片][图片]分布与危害 蔷薇叶蜂(Arge pagana Panzer),属膜翅目,叶蜂科。别名月季叶蜂、蔷薇三节叶蜂。分布于山东、北京、河北、广东、福建、浙江和江苏等地。其为害月季、蔷薇和玫瑰等。 以幼虫为害叶片,造成叶片边缘缺刻。严重时可造成全部叶片被食光,只留下叶梗和叶脉。成虫产卵于枝条上,造成枝条枯死。 形态特征 成虫:体长7.5mm,翅展17mm。头部、胸部、翅和足均为蓝黑色,具金属光泽。腹部黄色。雌虫腹部末端具产卵器,不用时藏匿。 卵:淡黄色,椭圆形,末端稍大 。 幼虫:老熟幼虫体长23mm。头部黄色,其余均为黄绿色至黄褐色。胴部等2节至11节 各有3排黑色毛瘤。 蛹:头部、胸部褐色,腹部棕黄色。 发生规律 在山东一年发生2-3代,在广东则可发生8代,均以幼虫在寄主下的土中结茧越冬。来年4-5月羽化成虫。成虫产卵于半木质化的枝条中,产卵痕长2cm左右,呈线状。每处产卵20多粒,单雌产卵量50多粒。卵期10天。在北京地区,6月发生一代幼虫,8月发生二代幼虫。9月底,幼虫入土做茧越冬。幼虫在低龄阶段有群聚为害的习性,常10多头在一起生活。 防治方法 人工捕捉:当幼虫低龄群聚为害时,摘除有虫叶片。 喷药防治:尽量选择在低龄幼虫期防治。此时虫口密度小,危害小,且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷(国光依它)1000倍液,或国光乙刻(20%氰戊菊酯)1500倍液+乐克(5.7%甲维盐)2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒(必治)1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫,可连用1-2次,间隔7-10天。可轮换用药,以延缓抗性的产生。
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Miss Chen
2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#金盏菊人纹污灯蛾 相关图片 [图片]分布与危害 在国内外均有分布,寄主有金盏菊、芍药、萱草、鸢尾、菊花、月季等花卉,为害严重。 主要以幼虫啃食叶肉,分散危害,蚕食叶片,造成叶片残缺不全和孔洞。仅剩主脉和叶柄。 形态特征 成虫雄虫体长17-20毫米,翅展46-50毫米;雌虫体长20-23毫米,翅展55-58毫米;雄虫触角短、锯齿状;雌虫触角羽毛状;头、胸黄白色,腹部背面呈红色;前翅黄白色,后翅红色或白色,前后翅背面均为淡红色。 卵直径约0.6毫米扁圆形,淡绿色。 幼虫头部黑色,胴部淡黄褐色,背线不明显,亚背线暗绿色,体上密生棕黄色长毛。 发生规律 人纹污等蛾一年发生3代,以蛹在土中越冬;翌春4-6月成虫羽化,第一代幼虫在5-6月开始危害,成虫有趋光性。卵产在叶背呈块状,初孵幼虫有群集性,分散活动,老熟幼虫受振动后即落地,有假死性。 防治方法 (1)冬耕除草消灭越冬蛹。 (2)成虫羽化期,根据其有趋光性,可用黑光灯诱杀。及时摘除有卵的叶片。 (3)化学防治:尽量选择在低龄幼虫期防治。此时虫口密度小,危害小,且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷(国光依它)1000倍液,或国光乙刻(20%氰戊菊酯)1500倍液+乐克(5.7%甲维盐)2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒(必治)1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫,可连用1-2次,间隔7-10天。可轮换用药,以延缓抗性的产生。
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Miss Chen
2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#茉莉朱砂叶螨 相关图片 [图片]分布与危害 常见的受害花卉有茉莉、月季、桂花、一串红、万寿菊、菊花、凤仙花、鸡冠花、蜀葵、黄蜀葵、木芙蓉、香叶天竺葵、木槿、石竹、鸢尾、山梅花、桃、黄花菜等。被害叶片初呈黄白色小斑点,后逐渐扩展到全叶,造成叶片卷曲,枯黄脱落 形态特征 一般呈红色、锈红色。螨体两侧常用长条形纵行块状斑玟,斑纹从头胸部开始一直延伸到腹部后端,有时分隔成前后两块,其中前一块略大。雌成螨梨形,体长0.42-0.50毫米。雄成螨体长为0.26毫米,腹部较瘦小,末端较尖。 卵 圆球形,直径0.13毫米。初产时透明无色,后渐变为橙黄色。 幼螨 体近圆形,长约0.15毫米,半透明,取食后体色成暗绿色。足3对。 若螨 幼螨蜕一次皮后为第一龄若螨。第一龄若螨较幼螨稍大,略呈椭圆形,体色较深,体侧透露出较明显的块状斑纹。 发生规律 主要以受精雌成螨在土块缝隙、树皮裂缝及枯叶等处越冬。越冬时一般几个或几百个群集在一起。翌年春天温度上升时开始繁殖危害。在高温的7-8月份发生重。10月中、下旬开始越冬。 朱砂叶螨主要是两性生殖,也能进行孤雌生殖,但未受精卵孵化的幼螨均为雄螨。卵多产于叶背叶脉两侧。每头雌螨平均产卵数为50-150粒,多者可达700粒左右。雌螨平均产卵期14天,平均寿命为30天,越冬时可活5-7个月。高温干燥利于其发生。发育的最适温度为25℃-31℃,湿度为35%。 防治方法 (1)改善栽培环境,使栽培地段通风、凉爽,适时浇水,以减缓繁殖速度。 (2)在受害地段,消除周围枯枝、落叶及杂草,冬季深翻土地,减少虫源。 (3)保护和利用天敌。主要有小黑瓢虫、小花蝽、六点蓟马、中华草蛉、拟长毛钝绥螨、智利小植绥螨等。 (4)化学防治 使用10%苯丁哒螨灵乳油(如国光红杀)1000倍液或10%苯丁哒螨灵乳油(如国光红杀)1000倍液+5.7%甲维盐乳油(如国光乐克)3000倍液混合后喷雾防治,建议连用2次,间隔7-10天。
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2017年09月17日
Miss Chen
#大丽花柳蝙蝠蛾 分布与危害 分布于黑龙江、吉林、辽宁及原苏联、日本等地。为害多种花木。 形态特征 成虫体长35-44毫米,翅展66-70毫米。体粉褐色至茶褐色。触角短线状。前翅前缘边环状的斑纹,中央有1个深色稍绿色,角形斑纹,斑纹外缘有2条宽的褐色斜带。后翅狭小,腹部长大。卵球形,直径0.6-0.7毫米,黑色,微具光泽。幼虫深褐色、胸、腹部污白色,圆筒形,体具黄褐色瘤突,老熟幼虫体长44-57毫米。 发生规律 在辽宁大多1年1代,少数2年1代,以卵在地面越冬,或以幼虫在基部越冬。翌春5月中旬开始孵化。6月上旬转向果农林木或杂草等茎中食害。8月上旬开始化蛹г9月下旬化蛹终了。8月下旬羽化为成虫。羽化盛期为9月中旬,终见于10月中旬。成虫羽化后就交尾产卵。以卵越冬。部分后期孵化的幼虫,或受其它干扰发育迟缓的幼虫即以幼虫越冬。翌年在7月旬开始羽化为成虫,随即产卵г2年完成1代。成虫多集中于16-18时羽化。成虫白天多悬挂于树干、下木或杂草上不动,直到日落后才开始飞翔、交尾和产卵。成虫具背光性。交尾后随即产卵,产卵无一定场所,多数随着两翅的颤抖,将卵粒一一产下,有的边交尾边产卵;多数不交尾就产卵。雌虫产卵量几百粒到数千粒不等。 防治方法 1、剪除带有木屑包的苗木和枝条。 2、化学防治:尽量选择在低龄幼虫期防治。此时虫口密度小,危害小,且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷(国光依它)1000倍液,或国光乙刻(20%氰戊菊酯)1500倍液+乐克(5.7%甲维盐)2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒(必治)1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫,可连用1-2次,间隔7-10天。可轮换用药,以延缓抗性的产生。
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