Ozone is the most damaging air pollutant to plants. The action of sunlight (ultraviolet radiation) on molecular oxygen and oxides of nitrogen spontaneously generates ozone. The organic compounds in automobile exhaust enhance ozone accumulation. Ozone can move across great distances to cause damage to plants far from its origin and is therefore classified as a non-pointsource pollutant.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis The extent of damage depends on the concentration of ozone, the duration of exposure, and plant sensitivity. Acute damage to deciduous trees causes marginal leaf burn and dot-like, irregular-shaped lesions or spots that may be tan, white, or dark brown. Symptoms may spread over entire leaves. Another common symptom is bleaching of the upper leaf surface. Broad-leaved trees often exhibit these symptoms of stippling or red-purple or necrotic flecks on the upper leaf surface only.[图片]Acute damage to conifers causes browning at the same point on all needles in a bundle (needle cluster). Other symptoms include chlorotic (yellow) mottling or necrotic (brown to black) banding, tip burn, dwarfing, and tufted appearance due to early defoliation of older needles. Damage from ozone can be confused with other problems and, if suspected, a more detailed reference material (such as Diseases of Trees & Shrubs by Sinclair, Lyon, & Anderson) should be consulted. Life Cycle Ozone builds up to phytotoxic levels in the atmosphere during warm, sunny weather when pollutants accumulate in stagnant air. Accumulation often occurs during atmospheric inversions in valleys and basins bounded by mountains.[图片]Ozone may cause damage to plants far from the source of its precursors as masses of polluted air move overland. Ozone from natural sources (carried from the stratosphere or generated during electrical storms) alone is inconsequential for plant health, but may be added to that generated by humans. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Maintain plant vigor. Plants that are in good health resist all type of injury better than weakened plants. Water during drought periods. Fertilize following a soil test report. Soil should be porous, well-draining, and not compacted.[图片]2. Select plants. Select plants tolerant of air pollutants. 3. Reduce emissions. Reduce emissions from the source when possible.

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Decline of trees and shrubs can be described in two ways–gradual and sudden. Sudden decline can cause the death of a plant anywhere from a month to a couple of years. Gradual decline generally occurs over several years. It can sometimes be difficult to distinguish between the two, not noticing the decline until too late.[图片]The sudden death of trees and shrubs can be brought on by a single, primary cause that kills an otherwise healthy plant. This might be the case with an aggressive pathogen like Dutch elm disease or white pine blister rust. With gradual decline, no one particular disease causes the plant to die. Instead, conditions weaken the plant to the point that secondary organisms are able to invade the stressed plant. Dieback and decline diseases are caused by the successive action of primary stress factor(s) followed by organisms of secondary action that can successfully attack only weakened trees. One may attribute the plant’s decline to these secondary organisms, but an experienced professional knows the problem lies deeper.[图片]Factors that lead to decline are many. This includes adverse weather conditions, such as rapid changes in winter temperatures and late spring and early fall frosts, flooding or changes in the water table, drought, bark damage from lawn mower injury or weed eaters, frost cracks, or animal feeding. Injury can also occur from lawn weed killers or other chemicals, accumulated salt injury from road salt, environmental pollution, soil fertility, or girdled or restricted root development. Finally, leaf loss from insects or diseases and damage from construction around the tree because of soil fill, root pruning, or soil compaction from heavy equipment can also be causes. Working singly or together over several years, these stresses can eventually result in tree or shrub death. A good example leading to gradual decline might be root decline where symptoms observed in the aboveground parts of the plant usually begin in the root system. When trees and shrubs are under stress, physiological changes occur in the roots, allowing fungi to infect the tissue.[图片]Removal of the stress factors is required to save the declining plant. In many cases, action may come too late or may be impractical to carry out. Symptoms and Diagnosis Symptoms usually develop slowly and may not be noticed immediately. Trees and shrubs exhibit an overall loss of vigor. Early symptoms might include premature fall coloration of leaves, late leaf emergence in spring, production of foliage in clumps, decrease in twig growth, dieback, death of tissues between the leaf veins, and premature leaf drop. Later symptoms might include sprouting from the trunk, heavy seed crop production, dieback of larger limbs and branches, and foliage noticeably smaller and lighter green (chlorotic). The foliage over the entire plant may also look thinner in decline conditions. These visible symptoms may not occur until the plant is severely stressed. In the autumn, clusters of mushrooms may form at the base of infected trees. Wood-boring insects such as borers are also frequently associated with declining plants as they are attracted to weakened, stressed plants. Scale insects are also commonly found on stressed plants.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Location.Avoid placing plants in a stressful situation. Select species that are suited to the conditions of the planting location or modify the planting site to suit the requirements of the plant. This would include planting in a well-draining soil with the correct pH for the plant. Environmental conditions should also be considered, such as full sun for a sun-loving plant—not in the shade of another plant. Use warm weather plants in warm climates and moisture-loving plants in wet conditions. 2.Inspection. Prevention and early detection are the key to keeping trees and shrubs healthy. Inspect plants often and watch for symptoms of stress. 3. Planting. Do not crowd plants in restricted areas, such as close to sidewalks or streets, or place too many plants in an area that cannot support them. 4. On-going care. Water to reduce drought stress. Using a fertilizer like 5-10-5 that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen will stimulate root growth rather than shoot growth. Mulching over the root system will help prevent the loss of water, decrease compaction from rain, and keep the roots cool in the summer and warmer in the winter.[图片]5. Pruning. Prune all dead and dying branches and no more than 10 to 20% of the remaining live branches at any one time. This should balance the foliage to the root system. If more pruning is necessary, complete this over 2–3 years. 6. Compaction. Compacted soil will cause a slow, sure death for many plants. Locate children’s play areas, dog runs, or car parking areas away from valuable trees and plantings. Core aerate compacted areas and around the drip line of trees. Change traffic patterns to reduce compacting the soil under trees. 7. Removal.Remove dead trees and shrubs and dispose of any infected material.

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Kabatina blight is caused by the fungal organism Kabatina juniperi. It results in tip dieback of one year-old growth, causing death to terminal branch ends. It is a problem of junipers, cypress, and arborvitae in North America and Europe. [图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Kabatina symptoms occur in late winter or early spring, generally in February and March, when the terminal 2-6 inches of diseased growth turns a dull green or yellow brown and then red or yellow as the infection progresses. Damage can be confused with winter injury. This disease may also be confused with phomopsis tip blight as both may result in dead tips but symptom occurance is quite different for the two diseases. Phomopsis blight infection occurs in spring and results in the yellowing and death of new, succulent juvenile foliage. Once the needles are fully green and mature phomopsis is not capable of causing infection. Kabatina, however, can infect mature foliage in the fall, winter or the following spring. [图片]Life Cycle The disease survives on infected plant debris as grayish lessions at the base of blighted portions of shoots. Fruiting bodies develop as small black "pimples," numerous in spring and diminish as the season progresses.The spores are moved by rain and irrigation and enter wounds or small opening caused by mechanical damage or insect feeding. The primary infection time is believed to be in fall although symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring. (Note: Symptoms of phomopsis tip blight occur in late spring as the new growth develops.) [图片]Integrated Pest Mangement 1. Sanitation. Prune and destroy infected twigs and branches during dry weather. Avoid unnesessary wounding during wet weather which can provide entry points for the fungus. Damage is restricted to tips and doesn't cause death of the plant. 2. Good culture. Maintain adequate fertility for the plants but do not over fertilize. Avoid watering at night when the plants will remain wet all night long. 3. Fungicides. There are no fungicides currently registerd to control kabatina blight.

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Dothistroma blight is a foliar disease of a number of pine species throughout the Midwest. Austrian pine is the primary host plant in Missouri. This blight is caused by the fungus Dothistroma pini, which infects and kills needles. The disease makes pines in landscapes unsightly and successive years of infection can result in decline and death of the tree.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis The earliest observable symptoms are dark-green bands and tan spots or bands on the mature needles. The spots and bands later turn reddish-brown. The needles will begin to die back from the tip, but needle bases usually remain green. From the time symptoms are first noticed to the time of needle browning may take 2–3 weeks. Infected needles will drop prematurely. Infection typically is most severe in the lower crown of the tree, closer to the inoculum that spreads from infected needles that have fallen from the tree.[图片]Life Cycle Dothistroma overwinters in infected needles. The infective spores are released during wet weather and dispersed by rain splash throughout the growing season. Because of the continual release of spores, infections can occur anytime from late April to late October. The fungus attacks the mature foliage; current season's needles are resistant until they are fully mature. Symptoms on newly infected tissue are especially obvious in early fall.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Live with the disease but monitor yearly. This disease is slow to spread. Annual spraying is not necessary in residential plantings. Wait and see how serious the problem becomes in one season. Serious infections can be prevented in the next growing season with the use of fungicides.[图片]2. Plant resistant pines.Research on Austrian pine has determined that some populations are highly resistant to Dothistroma. Ask for these at your local garden center or nursery. Choose other nonsusceptible evergreens. 3. Apply fungicides. Adequate control of Dothistroma blight can be achieved with one or two sprays in late spring using a copper-based fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture. The first spray in early to mid-May protects mature foliage. A second spray in mid- June will protect the current season's needles which are resistant until they are fully grown. Other protectant fungicides include chlorothalonil (Daconil), Mancozeb and pentachloronitrobenzene.

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Cytospora canker is caused by a fungus, Leucostoma kunzei (formerly known as Cytospora kunzei). In its perfect stage, it is known as Valsa kunzei. It is a destructive disease of many of the spruces, especially Colorado blue and Norway spruces, from the Midwest to New England. The disease is more common on trees over 15 years old and trees under stress and of low vigor. Trees with shallow roots, weakened by mechanical injury, insect, or weather stresses, and trees growing on unfavorable sites are most susceptible. The disease destroys the symmetry of spruce trees and in time may kill them. Infections on Colorado blue spruces are usually confined to branches. Branches and trunks are damaged on black, Engelmann, Norway, red, and white spruces. Cytospora cankers have also been found on Douglas fir, hemlock, larch, and balsam fir.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Dying of lower branches is usually the first symptom. The needles turn brown and after a few months drop off, and white or light blue patches of resin become obvious on the dead bark of larger branches. As the disease progresses over several years, higher branches also die. Dead areas called cankers are formed. The infected inner bark tissue and cambium are brown in contrast to the normal light color of healthy tissue, but the wood beneath the infected bark is not discolored. As cankers enlarge and girdle the stem, parts above the diseased area lose color, make little growth, wilt or wither, and die back from the tips. Infected branches often start growth later in the spring. The resin exuded from cankered branches is visible on dead bark after infected needles are cast. This is the most obvious symptom on infected branches.[图片]Life Cycle The fungus overwinters in cankered bark. Spores from fruiting bodies formed in cankers are spread by rain, wind, insects, birds, and man. Infection occurs through wounds. The fungus grows and kills the bark, then expands until the entire branch is killed from the branch being girdled. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Prune out diseased branches. Prune out all infected branches and burn or remove them from the site. Prune in late winter when it is sunny and the trees are dry. Dip pruning tools into a solution of 1–part bleach and 9–parts water between cuts to reduce spreading the disease. After pruning, oil blades to prevent rust.[图片]2. Avoid injuries to bark and stems. Wounds can provide entry points for the pathogen, especially during wet periods. 3.Improve plant health. Water during dry periods and aerate the soil around the tree to relieve soil compaction and facilitate water and nutrient penetration. Fertilize to maintain vigor. 4. Maintain good air circulation. Chances of infection are greater on plants that are crowded together. Space plants out when planting to accommodate mature growth.[图片]5. Fungicidal sprays are seldom effective and are not recommended. Once the tree is infected, the disease is difficult to control. Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing fungicides may help slow the spread of the disease. The best time to apply fungicides has not been established. Consider using fungicidal sprays only if the tree is very valuable and you are willing to pay for regular sprayings. 6. Remove the infected tree and plant a different species or variety. Blue and Norway spruce are most susceptible to Cytospora canker.

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Brown spot needle blight is a fungal disease of pines caused by Mycosphaerella dearnessii. It affects much pine in the Midwest including mugo, Japanese black, Virginia, eastern white pine, and most noticeably Scots pine. It is similar in appearance and can be confused with Dothistroma needle blight which is more commonly found on Austrian and ponderosa pine in the St. Louis area.[图片]It generally starts on the lower branches and moves up the tree. It also favors the north side of the plant which is more humid. The blight is most damaging on small trees but over time can retard growth and weaken mature trees.[图片]Symptoms and Diagnosis Dead needles, which turn brown or a burnt red-orange and then drop is characteristic of the disease. The loss of 2nd and 3rd needles is accelerated and branches may look bare except for small tufts of needles at the tips. Damage usually begins on lower branches first. Yellow to tan spots first appear in May to September on current year needles. Brown spots appear mid to late summer and coalescing into bands encircling the needles and causing death of parts beyond the band. The bands may occur at any location along the length of the needle. Resin may appear on the spots. By fall the spots may appear resin-soaked. By late summer/autumn yellow halos may surround brown bands and spots. Straw-colored lesions becoming light tan with a dark border may appear raised as surrounding, uninfected tissue dies. Dead needles drop in fall.[图片]Life Cycle In late spring to early summer spores on dead needles initiate new infections through stomata on the needles. June-July is the most active infection period. In late summer, fruiting bodies called pycnidia form on infected needles in the tree and on the ground. The spores spread by splashing rain to new infection sites. Infection is favored by warm, humid conditions. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Live with the disease. If damage is slight you may decide just to live with a few browning needles. The plant can easily survive light infections. 2. Sanitation. Remove and dispose of diseased needle on the tree if practical and most certainly those on the ground as these are the source of on-going infection.[图片]3. Refrain from overhead watering. Since splashing water spreads the spores, limit overhead watering or do so only early in the day so the needles dry quickly. 4. Improve air circulation. High humidity and slow drying needles fosters infection so prune out dense foliage and evaluate nearby plants to see if pruning them might promote faster drying of the pine's needles. Provide ample spacing between plants.[图片]5. Use fungicides. copper-based fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture are effective as a protectant. Other protectant fungicides include chlorothalonil (Daconil) and Mancozeb. Follow label directions for application. 6. Plant resistant pines or other plants. Consider replacing the pines with a species that is more resistant to the disease or an evergreen other than a pine, such as spruce, arborvitae, or juniper.

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Poison ivy, Toxicodendron radicans, is usually a vine twining on trees and occasionally an upright bush if there is no support. Each leaf is made up of three leaflets more or less notched at the edges. Two of the leaflets form a pair on opposite sides of the leafstalk, while the third leaflet stands by itself at the tip of the leafstalk. Small greenish flowers grow in bunches attached to the main stem close to the point where each leaf joins it. Later in the season, clusters of poisonous, berry-like drupes form. They are a dirty yellowish-white, waxy berry similar to mistletoe. The leaves are red in early spring becoming shiny green in summer and then turning red or orange in autumn.[图片]Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Pull small plants. If only a few small plants are found, pull and dispose of the plants using rubber gloves and arm protection. Avoid touching the leaves. Dispose of the plants in a plastic bag so they will not be touched by others. All parts of the plant are toxic. NEVER BURN THE PLANTS. The fumes are as toxic as touching the plant and worse if inhaled.[图片]2. Use herbicides. For small areas, poison ivy killers available in aerosol cans may be a good choice. They are effective and convenient but are too expensive for treating large areas. Another option is to use glyphosate (Roundup, Kleenup). Spray the leaves of actively growing plants taking care to protect nearby desirable plants from spray drift which can damage or kill them. Leaves can also be selectively "painted" with the solution using a brush or wiped on plants using a disposable cotton rag. Use rubber gloves approved for use with garden chemicals and avoid contact of the herbicide with skin and eyes.[图片]A combination of 2,4-D and Banvel is also effective, but use 2,4-D with care as nearby plants may be sensitive to the drift. To kill the roots of large plants, cut the stem at soil level. Then paint the cut with undiluted 2,4-D. Mound soil over the treated stub. Amino triazole (Amitrol-T, Amino Triazole 90, and Weedazol) is also highly effective and safe to use. Available as a liquid or wettable powder, it should be applied during periods of rapid plant growth. Thorough coverage of the foliage is essential.[图片]3.Use biological controls. Sheep and goats will eat poison ivy. Tether them in areas where you need poison ivy cleared. Not all municipalities or neighbors may welcome this control measure.

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#君子兰 君子兰养了2-3年以上，就会在君子兰母株上爆出很多小芽。这些小芽切下来种在土里，就能变成新的君子兰了。 [图片]操作步骤： 1、发现家里的君子兰爆小芽了之后，不用管，等到小芽长出2-3片叶子的时候，再对君子兰进行脱盆处理。在脱盆前的1周内，最好不要浇水，以便盆土分离。 [图片]2、将花盆倒扣过来，一只手握住君子兰的根茎，另外一只手慢慢敲击花盆，从而让君子兰脱盆。脱盆后，将君子兰根系上的土壤清理干净。 [图片]3、将君子兰的根系浸泡在多菌灵溶液或高锰酸钾溶液中，大概20分钟即可，之后放在阴凉通风的地方将根系晾干。 [图片]4、根系晾干了后，用消毒后的小刀将带着君子兰小芽的根系切下来。为了让切下来的君子兰小芽成活率更高，在切的时候最好多带点根系，这样才更能生根快、生根多。 [图片]5、切下来的君子兰小芽和母株伤口上，都要撒点多菌灵粉末，以达到杀菌消毒的作用，之后放在阴凉通风处将伤口晾干。 [图片]6、伤口晾干后，即可进行上盆操作。土壤一定要选择疏松、透气的营养土，可以用园土、珍珠岩按照3：1的比例配置，还可以再掺点松针。 [图片]7、重新上盆后，放在阴凉通风的地方缓2-3周，让君子兰小芽能够适应新土壤重新生长。经过这样操作后，1株君子兰就能变成好几盆了！ [图片]吊兰 有些花友家里的吊兰养的特别好，不仅养成了瀑布，还长出了好多小吊兰。这些小吊兰剪下来就又成了新的吊兰了。各位花友是不是觉得特别方便？ [图片]操作方法： 1、用消过毒的剪刀，将吊兰母株上的小吊兰剪下来。 [图片]2、剪下来的小吊兰上最好要带点气生根，这样才更容易生根成活。 [图片]3、准备需要的土壤，土壤一定要疏松透气、排水性良好，可以用腐叶土和河沙按照3：1的比例混合而成，之后浇1次透水即可。 [图片]4、将小吊兰插入土壤中大概2-3cm的地方，之后放在阴凉通风的地方缓和一段时间，再正常养护即可。 [图片]兰花 花花身边养兰花的朋友不少，但是能够把兰花养得特别好的朋友却不多。毕竟兰花算是不太好养的花了，只是如果你能将一株兰花养好了，分分钟就能变成好几盆呢！ [图片]操作步骤： 1、在分株之前，要将兰花停水10-15天，这样脱盆后根系的水分比较少，操作起来也就不容易断根。脱盆的时候，先将花盆四周拍打一下，之后将花盆侧翻慢慢倒出来，记住千万别把新芽和根尖给碰坏了。 [图片]2、脱盆后，将兰花根系上的土壤清理干净，然后用清水清洗，将根系梳理整齐，露出白花花的根系。 [图片]3、用消过毒的剪刀，对兰花进行分株操作，保证每个兰花植株上都至少有1条健壮的根系。 [图片]4、将兰花分株后，浸泡在多菌灵溶液中大概半个小时以上，以达到杀菌消毒的目的，之后拿出来放在阴凉处晾干伤口。 [图片]5、将根系晾干后，重新上盆即可。养兰花的植料一定要疏松透气，陶粒、树皮、煤渣、木屑等全都可以。兰花上盆后，要浇1次透水，之后放在阴凉通风的地方缓1-2周即可。 [图片]文竹 现在不少人家里都养了文竹，想要让文竹1株变多株，也是可以采用分株的方法来繁殖的。 [图片]操作步骤： 1、想要给文竹分株，必须要保证文竹在2-3年以上的年限，同时它的根部新枝条萌发非常多，这样分株后的成活率才更高。 [图片]2、首先对文竹进行脱盆处理，然后用手轻轻拍打文竹的根部，让根系上的土脱落，记得动作一定要轻，否则会损伤根系。 [图片]3、用清水稍微冲洗一下根部，这个时候我们会发现，在文竹根系上有很多分生的节点，找到这些节点，轻轻一掰，就能分开了，千万别用蛮力强行分开，不然损伤了根系，不容易成活。 [图片]4、确定将植株分成多少。为了保证文竹的成活率，最好让每一株的根系都旺盛一些。花花用的这一株文竹，就可以分成3-4盆了。 [图片]5、在盆底垫点土，之后将分株好的文竹放进去，一只手扶着文竹，另外一只手填土，注意在分株的时候，根系一定要均匀地分布在花盆中，这样才有利于根系的成活。这样文竹的分株就完成啦！ [图片]白掌 很多人还是愿意把白掌叫做一帆风顺，毕竟这代表了不少人的美好祝愿。花花觉得，如果家里的白掌能一盆变多盆，是不是代表着下一年会更顺利？ [图片]操作步骤： 1、首先对白掌进行脱盆处理，将根系上的土壤清理干净。处理根系的时候，一定要小心一些，千万别损伤到根系。 [图片]2、将根系梳理一下，然后直接进行分株即可。分株的时候，要确保每个分开的植株上都有健壮的根系，这样才能保证分株后的成活率。 [图片]3、分株后，在阴凉通风的地方晾干伤口，随后上盆即可。盆土必须要保证疏松透气，可以用泥炭土、珍珠岩按照2：1的比例配置。 [图片]4、上盆后的白掌，要放在阴凉通风的地方缓1-2周，再转移到散射光下养护即可。 [图片]

挂起来的风景 阳台，作为主人休息的空间，一定要整洁，这样看起来才能赏心悦目。一块简单的铁丝网格，就完全将纷杂的绿植归纳到一起，节省了宝贵的阳台空间。 [图片]木栅栏，可以去建材城买一块现成的，也可以动手，自己用木条做一个，既享受了做手工的乐趣，还能将大大小小的花盆都挂在上面，坚固的木条很让人有安全感。 [图片]如果有条件，可以买一块这样的棕榈皮悬挂花盆架，可以将花直接栽种到里面，省去了花盆的重量，不必担心花盆会掉下来。 [图片]小小置物架，收纳更灵活 阳台放置物架，很多人会担心金属生锈、木头腐烂…等诸多问题。其实完全可将家里用旧的置物架搬到阳台，或者去旧物市场买一个，刷一层清漆，非常好用，而且有种古朴的美。 [图片]可以用木条自己钉一个置物架，结构简单，承重力强，可以将大型花放上。 [图片]形态各异的绿植错落有致的摆放在梯状置物架上，非常有层次感，有强烈的自然气息。 [图片]围栏空间巧利用 阳台围栏部分的空间，一般来说都被忽略了。但是这块空间的作用可是非常大的。比如说下图，可以定制一个围栏板桌，什么花盆、工具…都能放。 [图片]很多人喜欢在阳台吃饭，空气好而且很有情调。但是圆桌再小，也是很占空间的，会显得局促拥挤。有了这样的一个围栏板桌，问题就全解决了。 [图片]你甚至可以在上面开烧烤聚会，邻居看见绝对羡慕死了。 [图片]如果怕麻烦，也可以买几个挂钩，将花盆吊在围栏上，记得买坚固一点的，否则掉下去就不好了。 [图片]阳台收纳不可少 阳台养花，经常有很多零散的工具，一旦没有合理地收纳，就会显得乱七八糟。这时候，阳台必须有个收纳的地方，用于放置日常会用到的各种工具。 [图片]可以是个榻榻米内置抽屉，空间很大，可以放上很多东西，特别实用。 [图片]可以钉几块隔板，下面放上藤编小筐，清新自然，符合阳台小花园的风格。 [图片]

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#兰花 ——掰掰掰 前两天，花花去舅舅家玩，刚进屋，舅舅就拉着我去看他养的兰花，3年了， 人家的都长满了盆，他的却还是孤零零2棵，太可怜了！我灵机一动，想到了一个花农提供的妙招，——“捂芦头”（芦头既假鳞茎）赶紧教给他。 [图片]①把兰花从花盆中倒扣出来，剪掉烂根、枯根、空根、枯叶。 [图片]②找到兰花的假鳞茎，假鳞茎是兰花的养分和水分存储组织，在叶片的基部， 肉质根的上部，某些兰花的假鳞茎可以长成比较大的球形或者卵形。 [图片]③用两只手，一手捏住1个假鳞茎，然后分别向反方向扭转90度，让假鳞茎 的连接茎部分，呈现半分离的状态，注意：绝对不能完全扭断。 [图片]④在扭伤的假鳞茎连接茎部位，撒上一层多菌灵粉末消毒杀菌，或者在多菌灵、高锰酸钾或者甲基布托津等杀菌剂溶液中泡15分钟，然后拿出来晾5-10分钟。 [图片]⑤把兰花重新上盆，假鳞茎底部1厘米以下用正常的兰花植料，假鳞茎底部1厘米以上用水苔或植金石、塘基石铺0.5厘米。 [图片]⑥种完后浇次水，再把兰花放在阴凉通风的地方缓苗，缓苗成功后，正常浇水，慢慢见光每15天左右施1次复合肥或腐熟有机肥。20天左右浇点“生根剂”。 [图片]⑦这样，兰花的看芦头上就会长出好多好多的小芽，最多1个芦头能长出6个芽，就是6株兰花呦！ [图片]仙人球——砍砍砍 二姨家的仙人球，养了10年也不爆小崽，花花给她支了一招，一个月后，密密麻麻长出一堆小崽子。 [图片]①找一把锋利的刀子，用打火机或者多菌灵溶液消消毒。 [图片]②用刀子横着砍掉仙人球上半部分，砍掉部分占整个仙人球的1/3-1/2。 [图片]③把仙人球的这两部分放在散光通风的地方1-2天，晾干伤口，有条件的可以抹点多菌灵。 [图片]④仙人球砍后剩下的部分，伤口晾干后，2周以内不要沾水。之后正常养护，1个月后就会陆续爆崽啦！ [图片]⑤而砍下来的部分，晾干后，放在干净的土面上，还会生出根系，长成一株新的仙人球。 [图片]月季——拉拉拉 秋天啦，丑了一夏天的月季，终于可以再次美回来了，但是面对孤零零1、2根独杆的月季，，你是不是又失去了花开满枝的信心？别灰心，今天花花就教你几招，让你家的月季1周之内，像竹笋一样蹿芽，到时候就能赏到十朵，甚至二十几朵月季啦！ 拉枝前 [图片]拉枝后 [图片]月季蹿芽、开爆盆方法1：横拉主枝 ①把月季的枝条，呈90度，往两边压倒。 [图片]②用绳子、铁丝或重物固定住，让枝条保持90的状态，不至于回弹，当然也不要太重把枝条压断。 [图片]③这样原先的枝条就会失去顶端优势，1周以内，新芽就会从基部萌发出来，非常灵哦。 [图片]④小芽发的比较多的话，可以适当摘掉几个，着重发展粗壮的枝条，不要消耗太多养分。 [图片]月季蹿芽、开爆盆方法2：侧盆 ①把月季枝条比较多的一侧45度，往旁边倾斜，同时，让枝条少、虚弱的一侧向上，垂直于地面。 [图片]②这样，枝条少或虚弱的一侧会形成顶端优势，萌发出很多新芽，让月季的整个株形更加丰满，枝条更多，开花也更多。 [图片]月季蹿芽、开爆盆方法3：折枝 ①如果月季的一些枝条比较纤弱的话，可以把枝条在靠近下部的位置折一下。 [图片]②注意枝条不要完全折断，折断一半即可，并且要保证折断部位的下部依然有芽点哦！ [图片]③大约1周以后，折断枝条的剩余部分，就会萌发出粗壮的新芽啦！ [图片]多肉——撸撸撸 有人喜欢把多肉养成老桩？有人喜欢把多肉养成果冻？而花花最喜欢的，莫过于把多肉养到爆崽、爆盆，爆到犹如母猪生崽，能让密集恐惧症原地爆炸那种，最合我意！那到底怎么把多肉养到小崽子泛滥呢？来！花花教你点爆崽秘籍！ [图片]多头爆崽秘籍1：砍头 ①经过了一个夏天，你的多肉是不是徒得不像样，丑到辣眼睛？ [图片]②不如给它个痛快！拦腰一刀，砍下来的枝条扦插，剩下的放在散光通风的地方，盆土不干不浇。 [图片]③过个2-3个星期，你会发现光秃秃的多头枝条上，就能爆出一圈小芽，萌得不要不要！ [图片]多头爆崽秘籍2：撸叶 ①想让多肉，从茎干下部长出多头怎么办？简单!只要把多肉下部的叶片掰掉就行。 [图片]②从下而上，用拇指和食指捏住多肉的叶片，左右晃动，一片片轻轻掰下来。 [图片]③掰到你觉得剩下的部分好看或能看就行，然后再把多肉放在散光通风的地方正常养护就行。 [图片]④不到一个月，原先掰掉的叶片伤口上，就会密密麻麻冒出小芽子，离爆盆不远了哦！ [图片]橡皮树等木本花卉——截截截 不少花友家的橡皮树，虽然长到戳屋顶，但只有孤零零一枝独杆，难看，而正常的橡皮树，应该是呈现一把伞的形状，非常漂亮。怎么让橡皮树1杆变多杆，萌发出更多枝丫呢？简单，一把剪刀就好了啊！ [图片]如何正确截截截？ ①找一把园艺剪刀，给独杆的橡皮树中间来一剪刀，拦腰截断。 [图片]②注意橡皮树的剪口要平滑，剪开后伤口会流出白色液体，这时候用撒上层草木灰，或者用塑料袋缠住就可以啦！ [图片]③大概1个月左右，短截后的橡皮树顶部就会萌发出3-5个新芽，这些新芽大小均匀，长大之后，就能形成伞的形状了。 [图片]④如果你家的橡皮树是30厘米左右的小苗，则只需剪掉最上面的顶芽，就会萌发更多侧芽啦！ [图片]矮牵牛等草本花卉——掐掐掐 别人的矮牵牛、百万小玲、栀子、茉莉、玛格丽特、满天星、天竺葵、…能开成大花球，为啥你的就只有稀稀拉拉几朵呢？关键是你的花枝条少啊！那怎么让它枝条多呢？这就需要在花的小的时候就掐掐掐（俗称摘心），让它多发芽哦！ [图片]摘心前 [图片]3次摘心后 [图片]如何正确掐掐掐？ ①小苗长到8-10厘米或者4-5对叶片的时候，我们就需要给它摘心啦! [图片]②摘的时候，用剪刀或者手指摘掉最上面的2-3对叶片，只留底部2对叶片。 [图片]③过1-2周后，剩下的2对叶片叶腋部位，就会萌发出4个侧芽。 [图片]④等到新萌发的侧芽，再长到4-5对叶片时，再掐掉顶部的2-3对叶片。 [图片]⑤这样重复2-3次，你家的花就会形成一个饱满的大花球了，到时候让花苞就会密密麻麻布满整个花球，一起绽放啦！ [图片]