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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Powdery mildew is a common problem in areas that have high humidity. It can affect almost any type of plant, appearing on leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables. A white or gray powder coats the surface of the plant. If left untreated, it can turn more severe, causing leaves to turn yellow or brown. Many people look to a homemade cure for powdery mildew before turning to fungicides. However, finding a powdery mildew homemade preventer is preferable.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Plant rust is a general term that refers to a rather large family of fungi that attack plants. Frequently, when a plant is affected by rust fungi, many gardeners feel at a loss as to what to do. Rust treatment as a plant disease is startling but can be treated.
Symptoms of Plant Rust Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
From indoor and outdoor gardeners alike, one of the most common gardening questions is, Why do my plants have spotted and brown leaves? And while there are many reasons for plain old brown spots, when those spots look like little brown bull’s-eyes, the answer my friends, is fairly simple , organism-wise that is. Those plant leaf spots are caused by one of nature’s most basic organisms: a fungus. Plants with Spotted Leaves Fungal leaf spot can be found in your outdoor garden as well as on your houseplant. Spotted leaves occur when fungal spores in the air find a warm, wet, plant surface to cling to. As soon as that microscopic spore gets comfortable in its new home, sporulation (the fungal method of reproduction) occurs and the tiny brown fungal leaf spot begins to grow. Soon the circle grows large enough to touch another circle and now the fungal leaf spot looks more like a blotch. Eventually the leaf turns brown and falls to the soil where the spores sit and wait for the next available warm, wet, plant surface so the fungal leaf spot process can begin again.
Preventing Plant Leaf Spots There are a few easy steps you can take to prevent the problem in your garden or on your houseplant. Spotted leaves or the causal fungus need two things to flourish: moisture and poor air circulation. For your houseplant, spotted leaves can be prevented by watering the soil and not the foliage. Leave enough space between your pots for good air circulation. In the garden, water in the early morning so the moisture will evaporate from the leaves. Closely packed foliage should be thinned. Always treat pruning and cutting tools with a 1:10 bleach solution after each use. Rake and remove all debris from around your plants before leaf bud each spring.
How to Treat Leaf Spot Fungus No matter how diligent you are, the day will come when those tiny brown circles on the leaves of your plant so it’s important to know how to treat leaf spot fungus. As soon as you see plant leaf spots, treatment begins. For houseplants, isolate the pot immediately to prevent the fungus from spreading. Remove any leaf that has been affected. Stop misting. In the garden, the plant’s leaf spot treatment depends on preference. For organic treatment, there are several safe and convenient treatments available. Most contain sulfur or copper octanate. Or you can try a more traditional treatment by spraying with a mild solution of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), using ½ teaspoon per gallon of water. For those gardeners who have no objection, many all-purpose fungicides are available. Please read the label carefully before applying.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Shot hole disease, which may also be known as Coryneum blight, is a serious issue in many fruit trees. It is most commonly seen in peach, nectarine, apricot, and plum trees but may also affect almond and prune trees. Some flowering ornamental trees can be affected as well. Since little can be done to control shot hole fungus once the trees have been infected, prevention is essential in treating shot hole disease.
Signs of Shot Hole Fungus Shot hole disease thrives in wet conditions, especially during extended wet periods. The disease is most noticeable in spring, as new growth is most susceptible. Shot hole fungus commonly overwinters inside the infected buds, as well as twig lesions, where the spores may thrive for several months. Therefore, it is important to thoroughly inspect trees after leaf fall for any symptoms. Most signs of shot hole disease occur in spring, causing spots (or lesions) on new buds and young leaves and shoots. Buds will have a varnished appearance and spots will first look reddish or purplish-brown in color and about ¼ inch in diameter. Eventually, these spots become larger, turning brown and falling out—giving the appearance of gunshot holes in the foliage. As it progresses, the leaves will drop. The stress also affects the tree’s ability to produce, and any fruit that may develop will usually be affected as well with spotting on the upper surface that may even become rough.
Shot Hole Disease Treatment Infections can occur anytime between fall and spring, but is usually most severe following wet winters. Prolonged spring rains can also encourage this disease, as spores are spread from the splashing rain. Overhead watering may also contribute to the disease. Good sanitation is key to treating shot hole disease naturally. This is the surest way to keep the disease from coming back. All infected buds, blossoms, fruit, and twigs need to be promptly removed and destroyed. Contaminated leaves around and beneath the tree should be removed as well.
Applying dormant spray — Bordeaux or fixed copper fungicide — in late fall is advisable, following the label instructions carefully. These sprays should not be applied in spring once new growth appears but additional applications may be necessary during wet weather.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bacterial soft rot disease is an infection that can devastate a crop of fleshy vegetables such as carrots, onions, tomatoes and cucumbers, though it is most widely known for its attacks on potatoes. Soft rot disease is most easily recognized in these vegetables by soft, wet, cream to tan colored flesh surrounded by a dark brown to black ring. When conditions are right, these necrotic spots begin on the outside or skin of the potato and works inward. Initially, there is no odor, but as the soft rot disease progresses, secondary infections invade and the blackened potato emits a foul smell. These symptoms are similar in most other affected plants as well with small, water-soaked, translucent spots on leaves, stems or underground parts.
What is Bacterial Soft Rot? Soft rot bacteria, or Erwinia cartovorum is, unfortunately, found everywhere. It survives in soil and water sources, even oceans, and is found all over the globe. Almost all commercial crops are affected to some degree by soft rot. Bacteria in the home garden can be introduced by insects, wind blown rain, or leftovers from the previous year’s crop. One of the most common culprits on potatoes is the seed potato itself. The soft rot bacteria can be found on almost all tubers but most commonly affects potatoes. The infection occurs through skin damage due to growth cracks or injury and high soil temperatures combined with excess water provides the perfect growing conditions. Very often, signs of bacterial soft rot will not occur until after harvest. This is largely due to improper handling of the newly harvested potatoes. There is no completely effective soft rot treatment, but there are things you can do to minimize the damage.
Tips for Controlling Soft Rot Bacteria Once soft rot bacteria have infected plants in the garden, there is no effective treatment. You will need to remove and dispose of infected plants as soon as possible to avoid further damage to other plants. Prevention is key in controlling soft rot bacteria. The following steps can be taken to help avoid this problem in the garden: Avoid wet conditions. Make sure plants are in well-draining soil and properly spaced. Keep track of watering to prevent too much moisture. Rotate crops with rot-resistant vegetables. Crop rotation goes a long way in managing or preventing problems in the garden. When rotating crops, select varieties that are less susceptible to soft rot like corn, snap beans and beets. If you have had previous issues with soft rot disease in the past, wait at least three years before growing susceptible crops in that area. Use caution during garden maintenance. As you go about normal weeding tasks, or even harvesting, take care not to damage plants or veggies. Harvest only when conditions are dry and closely examine vegetables for any signs of problems that may affect storage, which should be in a cool, dry and well ventilated location. Keep the garden and tools clean. Be sure to clean garden tools thoroughly before and after use to avoid spreading any potential disease and always remove any infected/damaged plant debris remaining in your garden once the season is over.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
By Jackie Rhoades You’re strolling through your garden enjoying the lush growth the spring rains have produced. You stop to admire one particular specimen and you notice black spots on plant leaves. Closer inspection shows black spots on leaves throughout a whole section of your garden. This can’t be! You don’t have any roses. Unfortunately, you don’t need them. Your garden has been infected with black spot fungus.
What is Black Spot Fungus? Don’t let the name fool you. Diplocarpon rosae, or black spot fungus, isn’t just a disease of roses. It can attack any plant with fleshy leaves and stems if the conditions are right. You’ve already taken the first step in treating black leaf spot. You’ve been inspecting your garden on a regular basis and you’ve caught it early. Black spot fungus begins to develop in the spring when temperatures reach into the sixties and the garden has been continuously wet for six to nine hours. By the time temperatures reach into the seventies, the disease is running rampant and won’t slow down until the daytime temperatures rise above 85 F. (29 C.). It starts with tiny black spots on leaves, no bigger than a pinhead. As the fungus develops, those black spots on leaves are ringed with yellow. Soon the entire leaf turns yellow and falls.
Treating Black Leaf Spot Fungus Getting rid of black leaf spot must be a two-pronged attack. Because its spores travel on the wind and plash from leaf to leaf during watering, treating black leaf spot should be first on your agenda. There are several good fungicides on the market, several of which claim to be organic. They come in handy bottle sprayers, but if your garden is large, you might want to buy it as a concentrate to mix in your tank sprayer. Neem oil is another alternative for treating black leaf spot. It’s an oil pressed from an evergreen tree. It’s all natural and has shown some remarkable results as an effective garden fungicide. For those of you who prefer Grandma’s solutions to garden problems, try this: Mix one heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a gallon of water for your sprayer. Add a dash of horticultural oil or horticultural soap and Voila! You have a method of treating black leaf spot that works by changing the pH on the leaf surface to one the fungus can’t survive. The oil or soap makes the solution stick and the cost is around four cents a gallon.
The next step in getting rid of black leaf spot is prevention and maintenance. The first, we already talked about. Inspect your garden regularly in the spring. Black spots on plant tissues will spread quickly. Start preventative spraying before the temperatures hit sixty. Read the label directions for the method you choose and follow it closely. For Grandma’s recipe, a light weekly dose should be sufficient. Continue spraying until temperatures are hot enough to get rid of black spot fungus without. Avoid watering your plants on cloudy days. Bright sun and good air circulation are essential for getting rid of black leaf spot. During an outbreak, all affected debris should be disposed of. It may not be ideal as far as looks go, but affected plants should be cut back, and in the fall every bit of garden debris should be thrown away or burned. The spores can overwinter on plant material, but can’t survive in bare soil. The good news is that black spot fungus rarely kills the host plant. Getting rid of black leaf spot takes a lot of diligence, but in the end, the rewards are worth it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Crown rot commonly affects many types of plants in the garden, including vegetables. However, it can also be a problem with trees and shrubs as well and is oftentimes detrimental to the plants. So what exactly is this and how do you stop crown rot before it is too late?
What is Crown Rot Disease? Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.
Signs of Crown Rot Disease While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.
How Do You Stop Crown Rot? Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
A common but under diagnosed problem in the spring garden is a disease called downy mildew. This disease can damage or stunt plants and is difficult to diagnose. But, if you are familiar with the different ways this disease presents itself and with the conditions it which is can grow in, you will be better able to take steps to control downy mildew in your garden.
What is Downy Mildew? Often times, when gardeners hear the name downy mildew, they think this disease is related to another common garden disease called powdery mildew. While the two have very similar names, they are two very different diseases. Downy mildew is caused mostly by organisms that belong to either the Peronospora or Plasmopara genus. While powdery mildew is cause by a true fungus, downy mildew is cause by parasitic organisms that are more closely related to algae. Because it is closely related to algae, downy mildew needs water to survive and spread. It also needs cooler temperatures. You are most likely to see downy mildew in your plants in the spring, where rainfall is frequent and temperatures stay cool.
Symptoms of Downy Mildew One of the tricky things about downy mildew is that it can appear different ways, depending on what kinds of plants it is infecting. Most often, an infection of downy mildew will also include a fuzzy, soft looking growth that can be white, grey, brown or purple. This growth is most commonly seen on the lower leaves of the plant. This growth is where this disease gets its name from, due to its downy appearance. Other common symptoms for downy mildew include mottling or spots on the leaves. The spotting will be yellow, light green, brown, black or purple. In some cases, the mottling may look like chlorosis. Plants that are affected by downy mildew, may be stunted or have leaf loss.
Controlling Downy Mildew The best control of downy mildew is to make sure that your plants do not get it in the first place. Because downy mildew needs water to survive, the very best thing you can do to prevent downy mildew is to water your plants from below. Water that sits on the leaves of the plant gives the downy mildew a way to infect and spread on the plant. The spore of downy mildews spreads by literally swimming through water until they come across live plant material to infect. If there is no water on your plant leaves, the downy mildew cannot travel to or infect your plants. Good garden hygiene is also crucial to stopping downy mildew from developing in your garden. This disease overwinters on dead plant material, so removing dead plant material from your garden in the fall will help prevent the disease in the following spring. If your plants become infected with downy mildew, the organic control of downy mildew is your best bet. The reason is that once a plant is infected with downy mildew, there are no effective chemical controls, though if you have a reoccurring problem with downy mildew, there are some preventative chemicals you can use. Downy mildew is not a fungus, so fungicides will not work on it. Once your plants have downy mildew, the best thing you can do is to try to eliminate moisture and humidity around the plants. As mentioned, make sure your are watering from below. If possible, try to improve air circulation through selective pruning. In enclosed environments, like in the house or in a greenhouse, reducing the humidity will help as well. Regardless of what you do, downy mildew normally clears itself up in the outdoor garden once the weather warms up, as this disease does not survive well in warm temperatures. If your plants only have a mild case of downy mildew, your best option may be to simply wait for warmer weather.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Also called Staghead or white blister, white rust disease affects cruciferous plants. These plants are all members of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae) and include such vegetables as broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and kale and can ruin your crop.
White Rust Disease – What is White Rust? What is white rust? It’s a disease that causes distinctive chalky white spore masses sometimes referred to as pustules that first show up on the underside of leaves. These blister-like masses, called sori, form under the leaf’s dermis (skin) and can’t be scraped off without damaging the leaf. The stem and leaves can become twisted and deformed. White rust disease can and will infect the floral parts as well. Broccoli and cauliflower, in particular, will produce grossly deformed heads and for those gardeners who collect seed for the following year’s planting, those seeds will be sterile. White rust is one of several species of the fungus Albugo. It commonly occurs when nights are cool and damp and days are warm. The perfect time for growing cruciferous vegetables also provides the perfect growing conditions for Albugo. Controlling white rust fungus would be easy if we could control those spring and fall temperatures since it flourishes between 57°F. and 68°F. (14° to 20°C.). Unfortunately, we can’t control temperature any more than we can control the spring rains or the dewy mornings this fungus adores.
White Rust Treatment If your garden has been plagued by white rust disease in the past, you should look for resistant strains in the future. There are no fungicides specific to white rust treatment and once the disease becomes rampant, there is little to be done. That being said, fungicides used to treat downy mildew are sometimes effective against white rust, particularly the more leafy crops. Treatment must begin at the first signs of infection. The methods for controlling white rust fungus or how to prevent white rust are largely organic. The control of white rust fungus depends on the understanding of the life cycle of fungi in general. Fungi reproduce by producing spores, tiny microscopic cells, each of which is capable of becoming a fungi and thus establishing a new colony — what we see on the leaf or stem. Because of their minuscule size, these spores are carried easily from plant to plant, or garden to garden, by wind or water. Because of a protective coating, many of these spores can lay dormant for long periods of time, surviving in both cold and arid conditions. When conditions are right again, they ‘blossom.’ The secret to how to prevent white rust is two-fold. First is the removal of the places where the spores hide. Garden debris should never be left to overwinter. Even plant growth that looks healthy may be harboring spores waiting to spread the disease the following spring. Obviously infected debris should be disposed of away from the garden area. As it is almost impossible to collect and destroy every scrap of debris, consider tilling it under as another form of white rust treatment. While tilling won’t destroy the spores, it can prevent them from being exposed to the growing conditions they require.
he second step in controlling white rust fungus is crop rotation. Infected beds should not be replanted with cruciferous vegetables for at least three years. Remember, good garden housekeeping is essential in controlling white rust fungus as well as many other garden diseases; therefore, it should be a regular part of your gardening calendar. That old adage remains true: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
It’s late spring and the leaves of your trees are almost full sized. You take a walk under the shady canopy and look up to admire the foliage and what do you see? White spots on the plant leaves. If that tree you’re standing under is a nut tree, the chances are good that you’re looking at a case of downy leaf spot, also known as white leaf spot. Control and elimination of this downy spot disease will probably be the next thing on your mind. You’ll want to know what to do for white spots on the leaves. Will it harm your tree? First, let’s take a closer look.
What is Downy Spot? Early on, downy leaf spot presents itself as small (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch), whitem furry areas on the underside of the leaves and pale green spots on the upper side. If some of those white spots on the plant leaves have fused together to become blotches, they should look like white powder. If the disease attacking your nut tree fits this description, you’ve got downy spot. The proper name for your leaf destroyer is Microstroma juglandis. It is a fungus that commonly attacks host trees such as butternut, hickory, pecan and walnut trees. It’s found anywhere in the world where these nuts are grown. Those white spots on the plant leaves are fungal structures and spores that thrive in the warming temperatures and rains of spring. As the downy spot progresses, the upper sides of the leaves become chorotic, that is, show yellowish spots that will eventually turn brown. Affected leaves will fall from the tree by early August. As time passes, the ends of the branches may develop witch’s broom formations. The newly growing leaves will be stunted and malformed and will appear more yellowish than green. Many of the broom leaves will shrivel and die over the course of the summer, but before they do, these witch’s brooms can grow to be several feet in diameter.
White Leaf Spot Control – How to Treat White Spots on Plant Leaves Unfortunately, the answer to what to do for white spots on the leaves of your nut tree is nothing. Commercial growers have the advantage of proper equipment to reach the full height of these trees and to spray the entire tree with commercial fungicides not available to the home owner with only one or two trees. The good news is that the life of your tree won’t be threatened by white leaf spot. Control of future infections is largely a matter of good sanitation practices. All leaves, infected or healthy, and all shucks and nuts should be cleared and destroyed each winter or in the early spring before buds begin to swell. Infected leaves and nuts that are left to overwinter on the ground are major sources for new infections in the spring. Removing damaged twigs and limbs, including the unattractive witch’s broom, should also be practiced during the dormant season, if possible. While downy leaf spot won’t kill your tree, any infection will weaken it and leave it vulnerable to more serious infections. Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and they’ll stay strong enough to easily survive this fungal disease.
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