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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gummy stem blight is a fungal disease of melons, cucumbers and other cucurbits. It is a contagious disease which can spread across a field of fruits. The fungus damages the tissues of the stem at all stages of development. Stem blight treatment must start before you even plant the seeds to be entirely effective. Find out what is gummy stem blight so you can prevent this problem in your vegetable garden. What is Gummy Stem Blight Disease? Gummy stem blight fungus is most active during periods of warm, wet weather. The spores of the fungus can spread in soil or by air. The fungus will overwinter in milder climates in soil and plant debris. The leaves will get necrotic areas of dead tissue that turn brown and have a darker halo. The stems and fruit will show black, soft spots or large brown lesions that are bordered by black. The dark coloring of these lesions also lends the disease the name of black rot fungus.
Black Rot Fungus Characteristics Stem blight forms when seeds or sites are previously infected with the fungal spores. When conditions are 85 percent humid or wet and warm, with temperatures averaging in the 60’s, (16-21 C.), the fungal spores bloom. You should start treating black rot fungus at the first signs of the disease. Unfortunately, the first signs vary dependent upon plant species. Many get water spotting on the foliage or stems may ooze black or brown gummy beads of fluid. It is difficult to identify these early signs of gummy stem blight, which is why preparation of the seedbed, purchasing resistant seeds and rotating crops are important prequels to stem blight treatment. Ultimately, plants affected by this disease will bear rotten fruits, which are unmistakable and inedible.
Prevention of Gummy Stem Blight The first stages of a disease free cucurbit crop are preparation and rotation. Never plant cucumbers, melons or other susceptible plants in the same area as the previous season’s crop. The plant debris, and even seeds, left over in the soil will harbor the spores of black rot fungus. Careful preparation of soil prior to planting removes all old organic matter. Use seeds from a reputable seed company that has a history of fungus-free seeds. Since the disease can manifest even on seedlings, inspect any that you have purchased from a nursery prior to purchase and planting. Gummy stem blight signs on seedlings are brown lesions and dry leaf edges. Do not plant suspect specimens.
Treating Black Rot Fungus In most cases, removal of old plant debris, rotation and resistant species will prevent the appearance of gummy stem blight. In climates with warm, moist bloom conditions, the fungal spores are carried on the wind and you may have to combat the disease even if you took preventative steps. The most common method is the use of fungicides as a stem blight treatment. Dusts or sprays of fungicides useful for preventing and combating powdery or downy mildew have been shown to be effective against gummy stem blight disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’ve noticed frothy-like foam seeping from your tree, then it has likely been affected by alcoholic flux. While there is no real treatment for the disease, preventing alcoholic flux may be your only option to avoid future outbreaks. Keep reading to learn more frothy flux info. What is Alcoholic Flux? Alcoholic flux is a stress-related disease that affects sweet gum, oak, elm and willow trees. It usually occurs after a period of very hot, dry weather. The disease is caused by a microorganism that ferments the sap that seeps or bleeds from cracks and wounds in the bark. The result is a white, frothy ooze that has a sweet, fermenting odor similar to beer. Alcoholic flux is sometimes called frothy flux or foamy canker because of the white ooze that looks and feels like melted marshmallows. Fortunately, this ooze only lasts for a short time in summer.
Frothy Flux Info and Prevention Anything that promotes the overall good health of the tree aids in preventing alcoholic flux. Symptoms usually occur after a period of extremely hot, dry weather, so water the tree deeply during dry spells. Apply the water slowly to encourage absorption to a depth of 18 to 24 inches. Water the entire area under the canopy of the tree and cover the root zone with mulch to cut down on water evaporation and keep the roots cool. A good annual fertilization program helps keep trees healthy and able to resist disease. For mature trees, this means at least one feeding a year, usually in late winter or early spring as the leaves begin to bud. Young trees benefit from two or three smaller feedings over spring and summer. Wounds and cracks in the bark make it easier for the microorganism to enter the tree. Also, you should prune damaged and diseased limbs back to the collar. Use alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant to clean the pruning tools between cuts so that your tools don’t spread disease to other parts of the tree. Take care when using a string trimmer around the tree, and mow the grass so that debris flies away from the tree rather than toward it to avoid chips in the bark.
Alcoholic Flux Treatment Unfortunately, there is no effective alcoholic flux treatment, but the symptoms only last a short while in a healthy tree. In severe cases, the layer of wood under the bark may become rotten and mushy. If the tree doesn’t recover properly, it should be cut down.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
You may know it as leaf, shoot or twig blight. It affects a variety of shrubs, trees and other plants. Combating anthracnose can be a frustrating process, leaving gardeners asking, “How do you treat anthracnose effectively?” Knowing more about what plants get anthracnose and how to prevent it can go a long way in successful anthracnose control.
Anthracnose Disease Info Anthracnose is a fungal disease that tends to attack plants in the spring when the weather is cool and wet, primarily on leaves and twigs. The fungi overwinter in dead twigs and fallen leaves. Cool, rainy weather creates perfect conditions for the spores to spread. Dry and hot weather stop the progression of the disease that may begin again once the weather conditions become optimal. The problem can be cyclic but is rarely fatal. Anthracnose fungus infects many deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs, as well as fruits, vegetables and grass. Anthracnose is noticeable along the leaves and the veins as small lesions. These dark, sunken lesions may also be found on stems, flowers and fruits. In order to distinguish between anthracnose and other leaf spot diseases, you should carefully examine the undersides of leaves for a number of small tan to brown dots, about the size of a pin head. If you are unsure about diagnosing anthracnose, consult your local Cooperative Extension office for assistance and additional anthracnose disease info.
What Plants Get Anthracnose? A wide variety of plants can be affected by anthracnose fungus, including those grown outside of a greenhouse, such as woody ornamentals and tropical foliage plants. Potted plants and greenhouse crops such as cyclamen, ficus, lupine, palms, succulents and yuccas are sometimes affected. Trees and shrubs that are prone to anthracnose include maple, camellia, walnut, ash, azalea, oak and sycamore.
How Do You Treat Anthracnose? Anthracnose control begins with practicing good sanitation. Picking up and disposing of all diseased plant parts, including twigs and leaves, from the ground or from around the plant is important. This keeps the fungus from overwintering near the plant. Proper pruning techniques to rid trees and plants of old and dead wood also helps with prevention of anthracnose fungus. Keeping plants healthy by providing proper light, water and fertilizer will strengthen the plant’s ability to ward off a fungus attack. Stressed trees and plants have a difficult time recovering from anthracnose fungus. Chemical treatment is rarely used except when the disease involves newly transplanted plants or continual defoliation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Before you decide to start crown gall treatment, consider the value of the plant you are treating. The bacteria that causes crown gall disease in plants persists in the soil as long as there are susceptible plants in the area. To eliminate the bacteria and prevent the spread, it’s best to remove and destroy diseased plants. What is Crown Gall? When learning about crown gall treatment, it helps to know more about what is crown gall in the first place. Plants with crown gall have swollen knots, called galls, near the crown and sometimes on the roots and twigs as well. The galls are tan in color and may be spongy in texture at first, but they eventually harden and turn dark brown or black. As the disease progresses, the galls can totally encircle the trunks and branches, cutting off the flow of sap that nourishes the plant. The galls are caused by a bacterium (Rhizobium radiobacter formerly Agrobacterium tumefaciens) that lives in the soil and enters the plant through injuries. Once inside the plant, the bacterium injects some of its genetic material into the host’s cells, causing it to produce hormones that stimulate small areas of rapid growth.
How to Fix Crown Gall Unfortunately, the best course of action for plants affected by crown gall is to remove and destroy the infected plant. The bacteria can persist in the soil for two years after the plant is gone, so avoid planting any other susceptible plants in the area until the bacteria dies out for lack of a host plant. Prevention is an essential aspect of dealing with crown gall. Inspect plants carefully before you buy them, and reject any plants with swollen knots. The disease can enter the plant in the nursery through the graft union, so pay particular attention to this area.
To prevent the bacteria from entering the plant once you get it home, avoid wounds near the ground as much as possible. Use string trimmers with care and mow the lawn so that debris flies away from susceptible plants. Galltrol is a product that contains a bacterium that competes with Rhizobium radiobacter and prevents it from entering wounds. A chemical eradicant called Gallex may also help prevent the crown gall disease in plants. Although these products are sometimes recommended for crown gall treatment, they are more effective when used as a preventative before the bacteria infects the plant.
Plants Affected by Crown Gall Over 600 different plants are affected by crown gall, including these common landscape plants: Fruit trees, particularly apples and members of the Prunus family, which includes cherries and plums Roses and members of the rose family Raspberries and blackberries Willow trees Wisteria
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
While many people have both heard of and dealt with root rot in houseplants, most are not aware that this disease can also have an adverse effect on garden plants outdoors, including shrubs and trees. Learning more about the cause of root rot and how to look for early signs of root rot in garden plants will go a long way in its treatment. For root rot prevention and treatment info, keep reading. What is Root Rot? Root rot is a disease that attacks the roots of plants growing in wet soil. Since the disease spreads through the soil, the only root rot remedy for garden plants is often to remove and destroy the plant. However, you can try these corrective measures if you want to attempt to save a particularly valuable plant: Keep the soil as dry as possible. Don’t irrigate the plant unless the soil is almost completely dry. Pull back the soil to allow moisture to evaporate from the soil. The cause of root rot is a fungus. Species of the Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi are the usual culprits. These fungi thrive in wet soil, and you can transfer them from one part of the garden to another when you transplant ailing plants.
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks. Treatment for Root Rot The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem.
Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aster yellows can affect a myriad of plants and is often quite detrimental to them as well. Keep reading to learn more about this problem and how to control aster yellows on flowers and other plants in the garden. What is Aster Yellows? Aster yellows on flowers isn’t really caused by a virus at all. It is caused by a cross between a bacterium and virus called a phytoplasma, and for such a tiny organism; it can cause a great deal of trouble. Flower hosts of aster yellows are too numerous to list, as it affects more than two hundred species in over 40 plant families. Aster yellows virus is a disease carried from an infected plant to a healthy one by a creature known to entomologists as Macrosteles fascifrons and to gardeners as aster leafhopper. These, too, are tiny little creatures that gardeners often describe as gnats.
They are only 4 mm. long and their semi-transparent wings are brown or greenish. Easily disturbed, these carriers of aster yellows virus often go unnoticed until it is too late. Like all Homopterean insects, aster leafhoppers have sucking mouthparts called stylets, which are used to suck the juices from the tissues of plants. As they feed, the leafhoppers leave some of their saliva behind. If the insect has fed on a plant host of aster yellows, the phytoplasma from one plant will be deposited in another and so on and so on. Most aster leafhoppers originate in the warm temperatures of the south. They then begin feeding in the area where they were hatched and steadily migrate northward spreading the aster yellows virus just as new seedlings emerge or are planted in their path. Some of these migrant leafhoppers will lay more eggs as they travel and prefer to do so in grain-producing crops such as wheat. Gardeners who live in such areas are, therefore, more likely to see the aster yellows virus on flowers than those who live beyond those areas. These native leafhoppers are more likely to infect older, more established plants where symptoms will be less obvious. Hosts of Aster Yellows While named for the members of the family Asteraceae in which it was first discovered, everything from garden vegetables as diverse as broccoli, carrots and potatoes to flowering plants such as phlox, gladioli and coneflowers can fall victim to this insidious disease. Diagnosing the problem of aster yellows virus can be difficult as well. Its symptoms vary from species to species and it is often mistaken for other diseases or herbicide damage. Infected foliage can be discolored and twisted. The normal green may be replaced with yellow or red.
Hosts of aster yellows may first show the unsightly ‘witches broom‘ of terminal growth. Tall plants may appear bushy and stunted. Leaf veins often turn yellow or white before the entire leaf becomes chlorotic or lacking the chlorophyll green the plant needs to survive. This is the opposite of nutrient deficiency where the veins remain green. Carrots with red leaves and bitter tap roots dotted with white fuzz are indicative of aster yellows. On flowers, the disease may cause twisted heads that remain green or as with marigolds, blossom in a muddy orange mess. Aster Yellows on Flowers – Controlling Aster Yellows Disease Controlling aster yellows is difficult. There is no treatment currently available for curing the disease and plant removal to prevent more spread is the only course of action. Destroying the insect vector is nearly impossible, but certain insecticides such as carbaryl, diazinon and permethrin may help. Read the label before applying any insecticide to your garden. Controlling aster yellows organically involves having a healthy number of beneficial insects in your garden. Neem oil is effective, but may limit beneficial insect numbers. Insecticidal soaps are not considered harmful to bees, but will reduce the number of beneficial insects.
If you live in an area where the disease is common, the best method of controlling aster yellows on flowers and vegetables may be to plant flowers that are immune to the disease, such as geraniums and impatiens. Your local extension service may be able to help you choose plants that are readily available in your area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Botytris blight, also called gray mold, attacks almost any ornamental tree or shrub as well as many garden perennials. It usually occurs after an extended period of rain or drizzle in spring and summer. You may first notice it on dead and dying foliage and flowers. Continue reading to learn more about botrytis blight symptoms and gray mold control. What is Botrytis Blight? Botrytis blight on plants is caused by Botrytis cinerea, a fungus that attacks tender parts of the plant in the presence of high humidity.
Botrytis blight symptoms on flowers include spotting, discoloration and wilting. Buds often fail to open. It may look as though the flowers are old and fading. You can tell the difference between an old flower and one affected by botrytis blight by the pattern of discoloration and wilting. Browning from normal aging begins with the petals on the outer edge of the flower. If browning occurs on inner petals first, the cause is probably botrytis blight. Leaves and shoots with botrytis blight have brown lesions and masses of gray spores. Severely affected leaves and shoots die back, and the leaves drop from the plant. Fruit also rots and drops off.
Treatment of Botrytis Blight on Plants Treatment of botrytis blight begins with good sanitation. Pick up and destroy the debris that falls to the ground under the plant. This includes flowers, buds, leaves, twigs and fruit. Prune off and destroy infected parts of the plant. Disinfect pruners with a 10 percent solution of household bleach between cuts to avoid spreading the disease. Destroy infected plant material by burning, or bury the debris under at least a foot of soil if burning isn’t allowed in your area. Healthy plants have limited natural disease. Avoid growing conditions that cause stress as much as possible. Make sure the plant receives the proper amount of sunlight, water and fertilizer. Keep the foliage as dry as possible by applying water directly to the soil. Prune as necessary to allow good air circulation. You can achieve limited gray mold control with good sanitation and improved growing conditions, but the spores spread over long distances on the wind, making complete control difficult. Fungicides can help reduce the damage to valuable landscape plants.
Choose a product labeled for protection against botrytis blight and for use on the type of plant you are treating. Follow the label instructions carefully and store the product in its original container and out of the reach of children.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
It happens to the best of us. Your garden grows so nice and then, without any warning, you turn around and notice all your healthy plants wilting and dying. Southern blight on plants is a common problem in many home gardens but it doesn’t have to be. How do you control southern blight before it takes out all of your plants? Keep reading to find out ways for controlling southern blight in gardens. What is Southern Blight? Southern blight, southern wilt, southern stem rot and southern root rot all refer to the same disease.
It is caused by the soil borne fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. The disease attacks a wide range of vegetable crops and ornamental plants at or below the soil line. Southern blight on plants is most likely to occur in the summer months when the soil is warm and moist. Symptoms include discolored lower leaves, wilted foliage and plant collapse; and it usually results in the death of the plant. Upon close inspection, you may find an abundance of white hyphae or mycelia around the lower stem and roots, and in the surrounding soil. When you find the hyphae or mycelia, the best course of action is to dispose of the plant and the soil surrounding it. How Do You Control Southern Blight? Controlling southern blight in the home garden is a challenge because the fungicides that are effective in treating the disease are only available to commercial growers. Home gardeners must depend on cultural practices to control the disease. In the home garden, southern blight treatment begins with good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease. The disease organism travels around the garden in bits of soil that clings to garden tools and the soles of shoes.
Remove the soil before moving from one part of the garden to another. Quarantine new plants by growing them in a bed that is isolated from the rest of the garden until you are sure they are disease-free. Remove and destroy diseased plants, along with the surrounding soil and any garden debris or mulch that has come in contact with them. Don’t transplant any nearby plants to other parts of the garden. Soil solarization is an effective method of killing the fungus in the South, but in northern climates, the soil temperatures may not be high enough to eradicate the disease. Cover the soil with a clear plastic tarp and leave it in place while the heat builds up under it.
The top two inches of soil must come to a temperature of at least 122 F. (50 C.) to kill the fungus. If all else fails, consider calling in a landscape professional to treat your garden soil with the appropriate fungicides specified for southern blight treatment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many ornamental and edible plants display dark, necrotic looking spots on their leaves. This is a symptom of bacterial leaf spot disease. Bacterial leaf spot on plants will discolor, and in extreme cases, kill leaves. Tiny, microscopic single celled organisms are what causes bacterial leaf spot. There are several methods on how to treat bacterial leaf spot and save your plant’s glorious leaves. Early identification is crucial to effective management of bacterial leaf spot disease. Symptoms of Bacterial Leaf Spot Bacterial leaf spot on plants may manifest in several different ways. Symptoms of bacterial leaf spot may include black edged lesions, brown spots with yellow halos or just light and dark areas on the foliage. Spots are irregular and measure between 3/16 and ½ inch wide. They can occur on the top or bottom of a leaf and kill sections of the tissue when they cluster together.
Symptoms of bacterial leaf spot may also appear on the edges of a leaf, where it appears brownish yellow and the tissue dries and breaks off. The leaves become quite papery and delicate when the bacterial disease attacks leaf edges. The disease is most prevalent on older leaves but will quickly establish on newer tissue. What Causes Bacterial Leaf Spot? Organisms that cannot be seen with the naked eye are the cause of this visibly damaging plant disease. Wet, cool conditions promote the formation of these bacteria, which can spread on plants quickly. The bacteria splash onto leaves or overwinter on plant debris in soil. Bacteria divide to reproduce and one bacterium can multiply quickly in just a matter of hours. Bacteria reproduce the fastest when temperatures are 77-86 F. (25-30 C.). High rates of infection will cause leaf loss and can seriously compromise a plants health. This makes the disease extremely contagious and bacterial leaf spot disease treatment extremely important.
The pathogen is also carried in infected seed; however, there are some disease resistant seed strains for food crops. Additionally, choose disease free transplants, rotate crops and avoid overhead watering to prevent spreading the bacteria. How to Treat Bacterial Leaf Spot In addition to the previous tips on preventing spread of the disease, you can use a copper fungicide on crops. This has limited management use unless it is applied early in the disease cycle. On ornamental plants, remove the affected leaves at the first sign to prevent the bacteria from jumping onto adjacent leaves. Some of the most common hosts are lettuce, beets, eggplant, peppers and large leaved ornamental plants, such as philodendrons.
Remove old vegetable debris in the garden and do not plant new crops where host plants were once growing. There are no recognized chemical treatments for bacterial leaf spot disease. Your best bet is prevention and mechanical control at the first sign of symptoms of bacterial leaf spot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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