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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
True black roses do not exist in nature. Although many roses carry the word "black" in their name, such as Black Jade and Black Prince, they are really just roses that are a very deep, dark red in color. The most popular type of "black" rose is the Black Jade. For tips on how to grow a Black Jade, follow the tips below. For tips on how to make your roses really black, check out the "Tips" section at the end of the article.
Step 1 Plant your rose bush in sandy soil that has been loosened. If your soil is heavy with clay, add some sand or organic mulch. The location should be in partial shade. Dig a hole about 4 inches wider than the root ball and as deep as the top of the base of the plant. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and water. Step 2 Keep the soil just barely moist. During hot weather, water at least three times per week. Do not let water stand, as this could lead to mold growth. Step 3 Add a fertilizer made especially for roses as per the directions on the bag. Most fertilizers are used at the start of the growing season (early spring) and once in the middle of the growing season (mid-summer).
Step 4 Prune your rose bush in the winter. January or February is best. Prune all the way down so that there are only 4 to 6 inches left on each stem. Step 5 Watch for brown spots on the petals or leaves. These roses are quite fragile and vulnerable to fungus. Remove any spotted leaves and treat with a fungicide immediately.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
If you're wondering whether your rose bush (Rosa spp.) is dead or alive, you're not alone. Roses go dormant over winter, and most look fairly dead by the time spring rolls around. Even if all of a rose's stems, or canes, look dry and black, the rose still might be alive.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem. Wait for Leaves The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood. Check for Green If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9). A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
White spots on roses are caused by fungal disease and insect activity. The white spots are usually visible on the surface of flower, leaves or stem, but sometimes they are not so apparent. That is why it is important to look on the underside of leaves. Sometimes, insects hide at the base of the flower. Gardeners should discard diseased or damaged plant material and maintain good air circulation, according to "American Horticultural Society Practical Guides: Roses" by Linden Hawthorne (see Resources).
Mildew White spots on roses are often caused by powdery mildew, a fungus disease that affects the surface of leaves. The white mildew is spread by the wind and develops during humid periods, according to the University of Illinois Extension website. Mildew is reduced with water, sanitation, fungicide spray and pruning. Aphids Some forms of aphids take on a waxy cast that make them appear as white spots on roses. Integrated Pest Management at the University of California says aphids suck the sap from plants and are usually harmless. If too many aphids are present on the rose plants, they can cause the leaves to turn yellow and curl, so check plants often.
Scale Other insects called scale can cause white spots on roses. Scale looks like oyster shell and appear white as eggs and nymphs. Pruning of damaged branches is recommended by Plant Answers. Leaf Hopper The Leaf Hopper is a grey, green or yellow insect that measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length. Some forms of the bug feed on the underside of leaves that causes a white stippling pattern, according to the Texas Agriculture Extension Service. Sun Scorch White spots can appear on roses when the plants receive too much sunlight or heat. The Master Gardeners of The Southwest View News describe the problem as sun scorch, a form of sun bleaching that can kill leaves. Climbing roses are also susceptible to sun scorch when excess heat radiates off support walls and hits the back of plants.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
As one of the most celebrated flowering shrubs of all time, roses (Rosa spp.) come in a wide assortment, boasting blooms of almost every color. Depending on the cultivar, roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. They bloom year after year if growers follow pruning guidelines that keep the plants healthy. Pruning, or cutting back the bushes, encourages blooming and promotes new growth.
Pruning Cues A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once. Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell. Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth. Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year. Pruning Necessities Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them. The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also: • Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking. On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter. Pruning for Blooms Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading. Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact. Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
Tree roses are not trees but roses that have been grafted onto a trunk that has been grafted onto a rose rootstock. While they look exotic, tree roses have the same growing requirements as regular roses and are bothered by the same pests and diseases. Tree roses come in two shapes, a compact lollipop or a weeping form. The grafts of both forms need to be protected from swaying in strong winds and winter damage because of freezing temperatures. Tree roses create an interesting look in an otherwise blah area of your garden, and with care, can thrive for years.
Growing a tree rose Step 1 Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Step 2 Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures. Step 3 Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil. Step 4 Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole. Step 5 Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose. Step 6 Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7 If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden. Step 8 Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot. Step 9 Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot. Step 10 Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application. Step 11 When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
Selecting Your Roses

Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting. Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water. Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly. Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems. Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet. Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems. Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly. Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
Roses are a favorite flower in America, gracing gardens across the country. When leaves start turning yellow, though, gardeners must diagnose and respond quickly if they want to keep their beauties blooming. Yellowing leaves can be a symptom of several maladies.
Soil
Roses like a slightly acidic soil with a pH near 6.7 and require nutrients to grow and produce well. A soil that is too alkaline or deficient in iron may cause general yellowing. Soil with excess phosphorus or potassium may need nitrogen to "green up" leaves. Culture
Crowding can deny leaves the sunlight and air they crave, and they might start to yellow. Over-watering and too much fertilizer can also damage leaves, turning them yellow. Herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides used on lawns in the spring can damage roots of nearby plants, such as rose bushes, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and glyphosate spray, a common summer broad-leaf weed killer, may cause yellowing from the point of contact. Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose scales and leaf hoppers can cause yellow spots and patches on leaves. Use pesticides formulated for the particular insect infecting your roses. Fungus
Fungi are transmitted by rain, wind, insects and gardening tools. Black spot is surrounded by a yellow "halo" and rust makes yellow patches with orange or black spores on the underside of the leaf. Prune the affected parts out of your rose bush. Virus
Mosaic virus is a disease transmitted from a parent plant or by insects. It starts with yellow streaks on leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
The original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz"), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, has exceptional disease resistance and requires little to no maintenance, including fertilizers. Joined by an expanded collection known as the Knock Out Family, the original Knock Out rose requires no fertilizer under normal conditions in healthy garden soil. With varieties hardy from USDA zones 4 through 11, Knock Out Family members share the same simple-care, low-nutrient requirements of the original Knock Out rose. If you choose to fertilize your Knock Out roses, timely applications and a light hand are essential.
First-Year Knock Outs Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants. Established Plants If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush. Northern Concerns In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
Knock Out roses are hardy down to USDA Zone 5. They can be planted outdoors in USDA Zone 7 (average annual minimum temperature range of 0 degrees F to 10 degrees F) in the spring after the last hard frost and in the fall, up to six weeks before the first hard frost. There are advantages and disadvantages to be weighed for the timing of planting that largely depend on your climate. In any case, it's best to avoid the heat stress of the peak of summer or the cold temperatures and hard-to-work soil of winter in most climates.
Spring Planting Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miss Chen
Knockout roses are flowering bushes that produce large, bright flowers. The fragrance produced is not as strong as other varieties of roses, and the flowers do not typically last as long after being cut. However, the knockout rose is exceptionally easy to care for, and is resistant to drought and many diseases. The flowers can be pink, red or yellow, and will bloom throughout most of the year in warm climates. Planting Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature. Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets. Watering Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening. Mulching and Fertilizing Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating. Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer. Pruning Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
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