第一次养#多肉 的花友，可能都被那些各种各样的多肉名词给搞晕过，看着别人再那里讨论的热火朝天，结果自己啥都不知道，那滋味……不过，今天，花花就给大家科普一下这些多肉的专业术语！ 养护术语 [图片]#露养 所谓的露养，其实就是露天养殖，只要你是放在室外的，不管是种在地里还是花盆里，都算是露养。 注意： 能不能露养和天气有很大的关系，基本上春秋都是可以露养的，但是冬夏我国大部分地区不能进行露养，除非是大神。 全日照 所谓的全日照，指的是多肉在室外，能够接受太阳直射的时间达到了8个小以上，这里指的一般是光照时长，而不是光照强度。 注意： 夏天最好不要全日照，有些品种的多肉会被晒坏的，春、秋全日照可行，冬天室外气温在5~10℃，也可以全日照。 [图片]闷养 所谓的闷养，就是用透明的器皿或者是塑料袋罩住需要养护的多肉，使得水分蒸发之后可以留存在那个小小空间里，人为创造一个高湿度的相对封闭的环境。 注意： 一般用于百合科有窗的多肉植物的养护或者播种时使用。 见干见湿 所谓的见干见湿，其实就是浇水方法，等多肉土壤的水分干了，拿起多肉的花盆试一下，轻飘飘的了就浇水，直到盆底底部有水渗透出来就停止浇水。 注意： 干透浇透；不干不浇，浇则浇透等，说的其实都是一样的。 [图片]散光 所谓的散光，指的就是多肉植物没有直接受到阳光照射，而是放在直射阳光旁的散射光下的一种栽培环境。比如，比较亮堂的客厅，那就是散光处。 注意： 除了一些特定的品种之外，其他多肉除非是在服盆缓苗中，不然不建议在散射光出养护，因为会徒长！ 状态术语 [图片]缀化 所谓缀化，其实就是就是指多肉植物受到不明原因的外界刺激后，顶端的生长点异常分生、加倍、形成多个生长点，这些生长点横向发展连成一条线，最终成扇形或者鸡冠状！ 注意： 缀化和多肉植物的多头还是很不一样的，多肉的多头是向着不同的方向，有很大的随机性，但是缀化最终只会形成扇形或者是鸡冠状。 [图片]锦 所谓的锦，指的是多肉颜色的一种变异现象，多肉的茎叶等部位可能会在外界环境的发生颜色上的改变，比如变成白色、黄色、红色等各种颜色，而锦还有一种情况，叫做锦斑，其实就是一个个的小点点了~ 注意： 锦这种状态的出现并不稳定，有时候有些多肉的锦会退化，这一点大家要小心哦~ 群生 所谓群生，其实就是指一棵多肉长出了好几个头，即单颗多肉植物体上着生多个生长点。 注意： 区分群生和缀化，缀化可以看上面，花花解释过一次了！ [图片]老桩 所谓老桩，指的就是多肉长了好多年之后，下边的茎干木质化了的状态。 注意： 注意，老桩是木质化，下面质地比较坚硬，是木色的，而一些徒长的多肉，下面的茎干比较脆弱，颜色也是绿色的。 [图片]爆盆 所谓爆盆，就是多肉植物生长的太快，把整个花盆都给占满了！爆盆和群生有异曲同工之妙，但是爆盆有可能是好几颗多肉一起，但是群生，指的是从一个根系上生出来的！ [图片]徒长 所谓徒长，就是多肉在缺少光照、水分过多的情况下，叶片颜色变绿，枝条上的叶片间距拉长，长势细高的模样。 注意： 想要多肉不徒长，或者是解决多肉的徒长问题，最好的办法就是晒太阳，而且是放到室外直接接受太阳照射！ [图片]穿裙子 所谓的穿裙子，一般发生在莲花座形状的多肉身上，因为缺少日照，水分又过多引起的叶片下垂的现象！一打眼看上去，可不就像是穿裙子了嘛！ 注意： 想要避免这种情况，平时浇水不能太多，同时不能将多肉放在阴凉处，如果发生了穿裙子的情况，就要立刻将多肉移到阳光下，并且控水。或者将垂下去的叶片全都摘掉之后再放到太阳底下养护。 [图片]花箭 所谓花箭，指的是从叶片中生长出长长的花茎，等到春天的时候，花茎上就会开出美丽的花朵，一般景天类常是这种开花方式。 [图片]休眠 所谓休眠，指的是多肉植物因高温或低温停止生长或者生长缓慢，而且因为品种不同，多肉休眠的特征也不明显，其中最明显的当为山地玫瑰。休眠的时候看上去像是一个还未开放的玫瑰花，休眠结束之后就变成了大白菜！ 注意： 多肉休眠期间必须控水，放到阴凉处养护。 病征术语 化水 所谓的化水，其实就是多肉因为环境闷热潮湿或者病菌造成叶片、根茎的透明化，最后叶片会渐渐消失。 注意： 一旦发现了多肉化水，就要赶紧将已经化水的叶片摘掉，同时将多肉放到通风良好的地方去！ 黑腐 所谓黑腐，一般来说是由于环境闷热加上病菌，引起的植株茎干变黑，腐烂，夏季是高发期。 注意： 夏季一定要遮阴，将多肉放到通风良好的地方，实在不行可以用电风扇吹，一旦发生了黑腐，要尽快将黑腐部分剪掉，然后消毒阴干，换新的盆土。 繁殖术语 [图片]砍头 所谓的砍头，就是把多肉的顶部砍了，然后将顶部重新放到沙土上等待生根，而下面光秃秃的杆子上，也会逐渐爆出小崽来！ 注意： 想让多肉一头变多头也可以用这样的方法，以及多肉烂根了也可以这样做 [图片]叶插 所谓的叶插，其实就是把叶子将叶片置于土壤中，让其生根发芽，长成一个新的植株，是多肉植物常见的一种繁殖方式！ 注意： 叶插要保持温度以及湿度，一般温度在10℃以上，就可以叶插了，湿度，保持盆土表面微微湿润即可。 只有了解了多肉的状态， 才能养好多肉哦~

Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They’re very hardy, growing best in indirect light with soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. In other words, they work well indoors with only moderate watering. And in exchange for little maintenance, they produce long green fronds and small plantlets or “babies,” little versions of themselves that hang down like spiders on silk. Because they require so little care and have such an interesting look, spider plant problems can be a real blow. Keep reading to learn more about caring for sick spider plants.[图片]How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.[图片]In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.[图片]When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.

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Spider plants are common indoor plants and can last generations. Their unfussy nature and lively “spiderettes” make an appealing and easy to grow houseplant. Spider plant problems are rare but are usually attributed to too much or too little moisture, excess fertilizer and occasionally insect pests can interfere with plant health. Treating plants with dark leaf tips starts with identifying the cause and then correcting any bad cultivation practices.[图片]Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor. Water stress One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.[图片]Chemical/fertilizer buildup Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.[图片]Diseases of spider plant Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.

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If you are used to seeing spider plants in hanging baskets indoors, the idea of spider plants as ground cover may surprise you. However, spider plants in the wild grow in the ground. And those who live in warm climates have been using spider plant for ground cover for years. If you are considering spider plant ground cover, read on for all the information you’ll need about caring for spider plants in gardens.[图片]Spider Plant Ground Cover Spider plants, with their long, slender, trailing leaves, look a bit like green spiders. These are great plants for beginning gardeners since they are surprisingly easy going and very tolerant of less-than-perfect cultural care. Many people have a few spider plants indoors as potted or hanging-basket plants. But those who live in warmer climates like U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b to 11 can grow these lush beauties in outdoor garden beds or as spider plant ground cover.[图片]Using Spider Plant for Ground Cover If you’ve ever owned a spider plant, you already know how fast they grow. In time, a plant often develops “babies” – plantlets that grow on the end of long stolons. Once these tiny spider plants touch soil, they develop roots. Spider plant babies can be snipped off the stolons and will grow as independent plants. In an outdoor setting, the babies can stay attached to the parent plant. They simply root, spreading the lush foliage into new territory.[图片]Caring for Spider Plants in Gardens If you’ve decided to use spider plants as ground cover, be sure you plant them in soil that drains well. They are very forgiving of many gardener sins, but they can’t thrive if their roots are in mud. On the other hand, you can plant them in sun or partial shade. The ideal outdoor location in hot climates is filtered sunshine. Irrigation is important, although precision is not necessary. Water when the surface of the soil is dry, but if you forget one week, the plants won’t die because of it. Their thick roots are made to survive varying amounts of available water. If you want to fertilize the plants, you can do so in spring and summer. If you don’t, spider plants will probably grow well anyway.

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The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is considered one of the most adaptable of houseplants and the easiest to grow. This plant can grow in a wide range of conditions and suffers from few problems, other than brown tips. The spider plant is so named because of its spider-like plants, or spiderettes, which dangle down from the mother plant like spiders on a web. Available in green or variegated varieties, these spiderettes often start out as small white flowers.[图片]Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings. When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes. [图片]Spider Plant Spiderettes As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual. [图片]Spider Plant Leaves Browning If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.

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If you’re decorating for a St. Patrick’s Day party, you’ll want to include a potted shamrock plant or several shamrock houseplants. But party or not, the potted shamrock plant is an attractive indoor plant. So what is a shamrock plant? Keep reading to find out more about growing and caring for shamrock plants.[图片]What is a Shamrock Plant? The potted shamrock plant (Oxalis regnellii) is a small specimen, often reaching no more than 6 inches. Leaves are in a range of shades and delicate flowers bloom off and on during fall, winter and spring. Leaves are clover shaped and some think the plant brings good luck. These leaves fold up at night and open when light returns. Also known as the lucky shamrock plant, growing Oxalis houseplant is simple and adds a touch of spring to the indoors during winter months. Shamrock houseplants are members of the wood sorrel family of the genus Oxalis. Caring for shamrock plants is simple when you understand their periods of dormancy. Unlike most houseplants, the potted shamrock plant goes dormant in summer.[图片]When leaves die back, the potted shamrock plant needs a time of darkness to rest. Caring for shamrock plants during the period of dormancy includes limited watering and withholding of fertilizer. The dormant period when growing oxalis houseplant lasts anywhere from a few weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar and the conditions. New shoots appear when dormancy is broken. At this time, move shamrock houseplants to a sunny window or other area of bright light. Resume caring for shamrock plants to be rewarded with an abundance of the attractive foliage and blooms.[图片]Growing Oxalis Houseplant When shoots appear in autumn, begin watering the newly growing Oxalis houseplant. Soil should remain lightly moist during times of growth. Water two to three times a month, allowing soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize after watering with a balanced houseplant food. Shamrock plants grow from tiny bulbs that may be planted in fall or early spring. Most often, shamrock plants are purchased when foliage is growing and sometimes when in flower. Many cultivars of oxalis exist, but exotic varieties provide the best indoor performance. However, don’t dig a wild wood sorrel from outdoors and expect it to grow as a houseplant. Now that you’ve learned what is a shamrock plant and how to care for a growing Oxalis houseplant, include one in your indoor collection for winter blooms and maybe good luck.

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Oxalis, also known as shamrock or sorrel, is a popular indoor plant around the St. Patrick’s Day holiday. This diminutive little plant is also suitable for growing outdoors with minimal attention, although it may need a little help getting through chilly winters. Read on to learn about growing oxalis outdoors.[图片]How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.[图片]Oxalis Outdoor Care Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.[图片]Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.

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The schefflera, or umbrella tree, can make a large and attractive accent in a living room, office, or other generous space. Propagating cuttings from schefflera plants is a simple and inexpensive way to create a collection of impressive plants for gifts or home décor. Like with many other bushy plants, schefflera plant cuttings will create a perfect clone of the parent plant, with no chance of mutations as you would encounter with planting seeds. Propagate your schefflera with cuttings and you’ll have a collection of plants healthy and growing within a month or so.[图片]How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings? How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.[图片]Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.[图片]Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.

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Scheffleras are ornamental foliage plants. In most zones, they are only suitable as houseplants because they are extremely tender. The wide leaf clusters resemble the spokes of an umbrella and have given them the nickname, umbrella tree. Schefflera plants are remarkably tolerant houseplants and do well in a variety of situations; however, they are also prey to insect pests. Sticky Schefflera leaves are likely a symptom of some hitchhiking bugs that are sucking the life out of your prized plant. [图片]Why is my Schefflera Sticky? Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves. Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.[图片]What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.[图片]Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.

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Schefflera is a common house and office plant. This tropical plant is native to Australia, New Guinea and Java, where it is an understory plant. The exotic foliage and epiphytic nature of the plant make it an interesting specimen to grow in warm season gardens. Can Schefflera plants grow outside? Sadly, the plant is not reliably hardy below United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11, but it will make an interesting container specimen that can be moved indoors.[图片]Growing Schefflera Plants Outdoors When the sun is shining, it is tempting to mimic some of our favorite tropical vacation spots in our landscapes. Adding tropical flair to the garden evokes the sights and sounds of a sultry, humid rainforest in an exotic locale. If you live in an appropriate zone, you can grow Shefflera outdoors year round. Outdoor Schefflera care differs somewhat from indoor plant maintenance. Plants can get bigger in ground and may need supplemental support and nutrition as well as a regular watering schedule, but Schefflera plant care outside is low maintenance compared to many landscape plants. Choose a location with partial to full shade or even full sun when growing Schefflera plants outdoors. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost, leaf litter or other organic amendments. Remember, in its native range the plant would be growing in the humus rich soil that is nurtured by a constant supply of over story leaves, animal droppings and constant moisture. It is necessary to duplicate that rich soil as much as you can for best Schefflera growth.[图片]Apparently, some Schefflera plants can tolerate zone 9b but will require a sheltered location, and in ground plants may die back. In other zones, you can use Schefflera as an annual foliage plant or keep it in a container and move indoors if cold temperatures arrive. Schefflera plants are common in southern California, Florida, and in places like Phoenix. The plants need a high humidity environment to produce the bright red flowers, so most regions cannot expect blooms, but the attractive foliage will provide a tropical foil for other plants.[图片]Care for Outdoor Schefflera Plants Schefflera plant care outside is not a lot different from indoor houseplant care. Over time, the tree will drop its leaves as it produces new ones. These take quite a while to break down and should be moved away from the root zone so insects and pests don’t have a convenient hiding place. Plants tend to dry out more quickly and they are more exposed to pests and diseases. Keep your Schefflera moderately moist and watch for mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Keep the leaves rinsed free of dust and debris. Staking or support may be required for good care for outdoor Schefflera plants. Be careful where you install Shefflera, as the roots are dense and strong and can damage driveways and foundations over time. For good outdoor Schefflera care, some gardeners recommend topping the plant when it grows tall. This forces it to produce a denser form and branching. If your plant gets flowers, you may want to remove them in areas such as Florida, where the plant easily naturalizes itself. Simply remove the flowers before seed is mature. With a little protection and forethought, Schefflera can make an excellent addition to the landscape for years.

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