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Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Miss Chen
Known for their signature three falling petals, irises (Iris spp.) grow between 4 and 36 inches tall, depending on the variety. These perennials commonly blossom in the spring and summer with colors ranging from orange to purple. Once the flowers fade, you may be tempted to remove the foliage, but it is critical to leave the greenery intact for several weeks. Irises thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. [图片]Average Time Span In general, cut the greenery back six to eight weeks after your blossoms die back. Although the foliage appears unsightly, it is slowly gathering energy to be stored for next season's flowering. Rhizomes, or underground stems, store photosynthesized energy from the dying foliage. If the rhizomes do not store enough energy, your irises bloom with less vigor or fail to flower altogether next season. The only foliage alteration you can make is simply folding the leaves downward if they are waving wildly in all directions; do not tie them into a bundle, because this process hinders photosynthesis. Visual Signal Your greenery is ready to be cut back when it appears yellow and has a papery texture. However, each leaf does not yellow at the same rate as others -- only cut portions that are obviously depleted of green pigment, called chlorophyll. Your irises can be slowly pruned of their yellowed foliage to create a neater garden appearance. In the meantime, plant distracting ground cover or other blossoming flowers around your irises to disguise the location. Creeping foliage and spectacular flowers make it easier to ignore the dying iris leaves until you can completely trim the greenery back. Dormancy Period Most iris varieties enter dormancy in July through the warm, early fall. Autumn is a practical time to cut your greenery back, especially if you want to dig your rhizomes. After two to three years, iris rhizomes clump into a mass that impedes vigorous flowering. Dig your rhizomes in the fall, and divide them. Each rhizome piece needs to have some roots and a bud-growing point. Plant these pieces in your garden for widespread blossoming come spring and summer. [图片]Considering Flower Removal Unlike the foliage, flower stalks need immediate removal after they start fading. Because you need the leaves to remain healthy until they yellow, your decaying flowers become a liability: They hold molds that easily infiltrate the leaves if left to rot in place. You also want to direct energy into foliage energy production, not seed production. Fading flowers are usually creating seed pods; removing the flowers directs energy into the leaves and rhizomes for storage and vigorous blossoming potential next season.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Miss Chen
Lily (Lilium) bulbs multiply continuously, hidden under the soil. Each spring, new flowers come up reliably, even if you neglected them through the year. But, every few years, lilies need to be divided and transplanted, otherwise they get overcrowded, resulting in fewer flowers and weak plant growth. Lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. [图片]When to Divide Lilies When growing lilies, it's best to let them grow undisturbed as long as they are flowering reliably. In general, plan to divide lilies about every three years, or when when you notice an overall reduction in flowers and spindly weak-looking stems. Lily bulbs produce small offsets that grow into full-size bulbs. As the bulbs multiply, it causes overcrowding in the growing area. Plan to separate and transplant lilies in early fall, after the flowers fade and the leaves start to die back. Digging Lilies Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the soil. Lily bulbs grow right below the leaf stalk, so you can dig 3 to 6-inches from the edge of the clump without damaging the main bulbs. Shake of the excess soil to expose the bulbs. Gently pull the clump apart to expose the individual bulbs. Use your fingers to untangle the roots. Dividing Bulbs Hold the lily bulb and identify the smaller offset growing out from the side. They will be connected at the base. Gently break the smaller bulb from the larger bulb. Ideally you should replant immediately, but you can store lily bulbs until spring if replanting right away isn't convenient. To store, pack lily bulbs in damp peat moss and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant. [图片]Transplanting You can replant all the lily bulbs in the original spot spreading them out to avoid overcrowding, or move some to a new garden area. Lilies grow best in full sun and soil with good drainage. Dig holes for each bulb two to three times deeper than the height of the bulb. Place one lily bulb in each hole with the flat side down and the pointed side up. Push the soil over the bulb and pat it down gently. Space each lily bulb 12 to 18 inches apart. After you are finished planting, water the area.
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子非🐠
2017年12月30日
子非🐠
[图片][图片][图片][图片][图片][图片][图片][图片]
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Jyhade
2017年12月30日
Jyhade
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若鱼i
2019年05月28日
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求店铺分享，我也想要玉露
Jyhade
2017年12月30日
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网上的攻略说这东西不能晒，我觉得说的很片面。冬天阳光不强烈，全日照是可以的，事实证明我是对的。从买回来就一直放在阳台暴晒。每天早晚喷次水，一周浇两次水，现在长的很好。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
[图片]君子兰别称剑叶石蒜、大叶石蒜等，为石蒜科君子兰属多年生草本植物，原产于南非南部，株形端庄优美，叶片苍翠挺拔，花大色艳，果实红亮，叶花果并美，有一季观花、三季观果、四季观叶之称，我国常在温室盆栽供观赏。 [图片]君子兰整片叶变黄 表现及原因 有时候，你会发现，君子兰在不知不觉间开始变黄。开始先是一点点，渐渐发展到整个叶子都黄了，十分难看。 君子兰会出现这种整片叶子都变黄的情况，可能是因为强光照射所致。过于强烈的阳光，会灼伤君子兰的叶片，导致君子兰叶片变黄。 怎样解决 当君子兰的整片叶子都变黄了，不仅会影响君子兰的观赏，对君子兰的生长也是不利的。这时候要剪掉黄叶，并将君子兰进行遮阴处理，可以缓解叶子发黄的情况。 君子兰局部叶黄 表现及原因 君子兰的叶子也会出现叶子边缘发黄，叶尖变黄或枯焦的情况。 君子兰出现局部叶黄的现象多半是因为浇水过多导致的。这是由于在日常的养护当中，对君子兰的养护不当，浇水过多造成根系缺氧而引起的君子兰生长不良。也有可能是因为施肥不正确，肥料过浓，引起烧根而使君子兰叶片出现局部发黄。以及土壤不通气，根部呼吸不畅并且排水性不佳，或者是养护环境不够通风透气等等原因造成的。 怎样解决 君子兰出现局部叶黄，其实大多是因为日常养护不当，总结起来就是要做好君子兰的日常养护工作。做好水肥管理，合理浇水施肥，避免盆土过湿或者浓肥烧根，使君子兰叶黄。也要注意经常给君子兰通风，使其生长在良好的通风环境当中，并注意土壤的选择。 君子兰叶子长黄斑 表现及原因 君子兰的叶子长黄斑主要表现为叶片出现黄色的或者黄褐色的斑点，并逐渐扩大，危害叶片。 出现这种情况多半是因为君子兰发生了叶斑病或者炭疽病，或者受到了虫害的侵扰。让君子兰的叶片出现黄褐色的病斑，甚至危害到整个叶片。 怎样解决 当君子兰由于病虫害的原因出现了叶片病变的时候，要根据发病情况选择合适的治疗方法，可以选择合适的农药进行喷洒治疗，并在日常养护当中，做好疾病的预防措施，以预防为主，防治结合。 君子兰叶黄的其他表现 表现及原因 君子兰叶子发黄除了上述的几种情况，有时候也会出现枯黄、灰黄、黄弱等现象，以及因为正常的新陈代谢，君子兰底层的老叶子从叶腋处长出了新根，并不断生长，导致的叶子发黄。 如果是君子兰的养护时间较长，那就是正常的代谢现象。但是如果是新叶、嫩叶出现枯黄、灰黄、黄弱现象，可能就是由于浇水不当、光照过强或者施肥过多导致的。 怎样解决 正常代谢导致的叶黄，不需要太过担心，只要将君子兰的老叶子剪掉，保持美观即可。但是如果君子兰出现枯黄、灰黄、黄弱这些叶黄的症状，也是需要做好日常养护工作的。要注意浇水，避免积水；适当遮光；薄施勤肥，可以改善君子兰的叶子发黄的情况。 其实，君子兰之所以会出现叶子发黄的现象，也可能是因为君子兰烂根了。这时候，不仅要解决君子兰的叶黄问题，修剪黄叶，还要解决君子兰的烂根问题。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
[图片]建兰别称四季兰、雄兰、骏河兰、剑蕙等，生于疏林下、灌丛中、山谷旁或草丛中，海拔600-1800米，主产于中国安徽、浙江、江西、福建、台湾、湖南、广东、海南、广西、四川、贵州和云南等地，广泛分布于东南亚和南亚各国，北至日本。 [图片]建兰叶子发黄原因 土壤不适 建兰肉质根，根系发达粗壮，所以对土壤的通透性要求比较高，若种植在粘性较重的土壤中，会影响根系的生长，导致根系与叶片之间的养分运输通道中断。 光照不当 建兰是比较喜欢光照的兰花品种，若长期处于背阴处养护，植株会因光合作用缺乏导致叶绿素减少，叶色发黄；若长期暴晒在阳光下，光照过强，植株容易被灼伤，叶子也会失去活力。 施肥不当 氮肥过多，大家都知道氮肥可以促进叶片的生长，但建兰的根部有根瘤，有一定的聚合氮元素的作用。在一定时期内施肥的肥料中氮的含量较高，会造成肥害，叶片发黄。 病虫害干扰 根部腐烂是叶子发黄的原因之一，根茎腐烂地上的叶片必然生长不良，发黄甚至枯萎。 另外，蚧壳虫危害也会造成叶子发黄，枝条上布满虫子，影响植株的光合作用，枝条慢慢枯萎。 建兰叶子发黄的解决方法 换土，适光 发现土壤不适，立即换土，可以选择专业的兰花养殖土壤，不论通透性还是酸碱度都比较适宜。尽量不要用从外面直接挖回的土壤，这样的土壤透气性都不是很好。 日常养护中，将兰盆放在光线明亮的地方，春冬季节可以全天日照，不需要遮阴，夏秋季节，要避开正午的阳光，适当遮阴。 薄肥勤施 兰花最忌讳的就是大肥，不懂得施肥的花友一定要好好学习，该施肥的时候及时施肥，施肥的对错关系到建兰的生长。坚持薄肥勤施，不偷懒，这样建兰才能生长健壮。 勤劳的小编为大家奉上超简单的施肥方法，去看一下！→→建兰的施肥方法 防治病虫害 发现植株染上病虫害，要及时处理。烂根时将植株脱盆，清理烂掉的部分，泡在消毒野种20~30分钟，晾干后重新栽种。 叶片上出现蚧壳虫，及时喷洒药剂，可用氧化乐果1000倍液。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
[图片]银皇后别称银皇后万年青、银后粗肋草、银后亮丝草等，为天南星科广东万年青属多年生草本植物，叶色美丽，特别耐阴，有独特的空气净化能力，在厅室点缀盆栽会感到明亮舒适，目前其剪叶插花休闲或装饰室外环境已属时尚。 [图片]银皇后叶子发黄的原因 浇水过多 浇水过多，造成土壤板结或者粘性过重，使得银皇后的根部呼吸不畅，造成根须腐烂，使得根系吸收水分和养分的能力降低，严重影响植株的生长，造成植株的叶尖萎蔫发黄。 空气干燥、光照过强、温度过高 这三种情形通常出现在夏秋季节，，因为银皇后喜欢生长在空气湿润的半阴环境中，一旦空气干燥，阳光强烈，温度又刚好在30℃以上，很容易造成银皇后叶尖干枯。如果遇到这种情况，要立即将银皇后移到半阴环境，将枯叶剪掉，并且经常喷水、通风，新生长的银皇后的叶子会恢复正常。 长期不换盆 长时间不换盆，盆底土壤板结，根系生长空间不充裕，在高温高旱的环境下，很容易造成银皇后根系先端枯萎，使其丧失吸收功能。若遇到这种情况，可以将银皇后从花盆中倒出，将枯死的枝叶剪掉，将坏死的根系剪掉，换上一半的新土，然后放在凉爽、湿润、半阴的环境中，注意及时喷水。 银皇后叶子发黄怎么办 控制浇水 银皇后入室后，空间不如室外的开阔，盆土及植株表面的水分都会有所降低，所以浇水要适当的减少，若此时还照常浇水，很容易造成植株烂根，叶子发黄。所以银皇后浇水要注意浇水量，有规律的进行，盆土快干时浇水，浇水就要浇透。 调整光照 银皇后喜欢半阴的环境，很耐阴，不要担心长期遮阴也会影响它的生长。只要你的家中不是漆黑一片，放在家里的任何一个角落，它都会生长的很好，不需要特意的补充阳光。 减少施肥 入秋后，银皇后的生长会逐渐变缓，对养分的吸收能力也逐渐降低，此时需要减少施肥，以防止银皇后叶子发黄。施肥时尽量选用液肥，薄肥勤施。 保持适温 银皇后喜欢温暖的生活环境，当温度低于10℃时就会停止生长，当低于5℃时会影响银皇后的生长，造成叶子发黄。同时养护过程中，尽量控制温度恒定，不要忽忽低。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
[图片]落地生根的别名不死鸟，是多肉植物中的景天科植物，根据外形特点分窄叶不死鸟、棒叶不死鸟、宽叶不死鸟三大类，生命力超强，一点点土粉就可以繁衍。即使在垂直90°的墙上都可发现它，真的是名符其实的不死鸟。 [图片]落地生根叶子发黄的原因 盆太小 落地生根是株型较大的草本植物，生长空间不能太狭小。所以，在家庭养殖的过程中，一定不要给它栽在小小的盆里，导致土壤也不够，水分也不够，叶子就……黄了！ 温度不够 落地生根耐旱，耐寒能力较弱。冬天没有暖气的地方，甚至能把它冻死！叶片枯黄，简直不在话下！ 南方的花友，可以考虑白天的时候拿出去多晒晒太阳，至少保持白天的温度是足够它活下去的。 烂根 烂根的落地生根，直接影响整株植株的观感，叶片发黄枯萎，甚至可能引起植株死亡。 落地生根叶子发黄怎么办 剪掉黄叶 叶子它都黄了，留着何用？一剪子剪下去，让它随风而去吧！顺便修修剪剪，给它个造型。 换盆土 盆较小的落地生根生长范围受限，不能愉快地长绿叶发小芽，所以，赶紧给它换个大点的盆，重新配置土壤，给它广阔的空间，任它飞去吧！ 晒太阳 冬天受冻的落地生根，会产生叶子枯黄的病态。这时，把它搬到室外，晒晒太阳，温暖温暖它凉了的心。 剪除烂根 拔出植株，剪切烂根，等切口愈合之后再重新栽种即可。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
[图片]鸢尾花为蓝紫色，花形似翩翩起舞的蝴蝶。五月，鸢尾花开的季节，你就可以看见一 只只蓝色蝴蝶飞舞于绿叶之间，仿佛要将春的消息传到远方去。法国人视鸢尾花为国花。因为相传法兰西王国第一个王朝的国王克洛维在受洗礼时，上帝送给他一件礼物，就是鸢尾。在法国，鸢尾是光明和自由的象征。 [图片]鸢尾叶子发黄的原因：阳光过度照射 鸢尾喜欢半阴的环境，这也是大部分鸢尾在温室培植的原因。在室外培植要注意遮蔽阳光，过度光照叶子会发黄。尤其是夏季正午，烈日炎炎，盛开的鸢尾在阳光照射下，水分蒸发较快，叶片易被灼伤，造成植株枯黄。 解决方法：阳光较强时，进行遮阴。另外室外养殖鸢尾，正午可适当进行喷雾，增加空气湿度降温。 鸢尾叶子发黄的原因：浇水过量 鸢尾不喜欢太潮湿的环境，所以最好不要过度频繁的浇水。盆土积水，根部呼吸受限，造成叶片变黄。 解决办法：成长期间7天浇一次水，温度降低水量要慢慢较少，盆土稍微干燥即可。 鸢尾叶子发黄的原因：浇水过少 随说鸢尾不需要太多的水分，毕竟是植物嘛，所以适量的水分也是必不可少的。盆土太过干燥是不利于它成长的，从而造成叶子泛黄。 解决方法：成长的时候需要适量的水分。 鸢尾叶子发黄的原因：肥料过量 许多花友在养护过程中，对鸢尾所需肥料及施肥时间不是很明确，施肥过多，造成土壤板结，影响根系生长，导致叶黄。 解决办法：培植前用些基肥，每年秋天施肥料一次，成长期可适量增加。
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Miss Chen
2017年12月26日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is ½–3' tall, producing one or more stems that are unbranched, except at their apices, where the inflorescences occur. Each stem is light green, terete, glabrous, and sometimes glaucous (rarely it is pubescent). Alternate leaves occur along the entire length of each stem, except at the apex underneath an inflorescence, where the uppermost leaves occur in a whorl of 3 or more. They are widely spreading to ascending. Individual leaves are up to 2½" long and ½" across; they are linear-oblong to oblong in shape and their margins are entire (toothless). The tips of these leaves are blunt, while their bases are sessile or nearly so. The upper and lower leaf surfaces are light gray-green to medium green and glabrous (rarely the lower leaf surface is pubescent). Leaf venation is pinnate with prominent central veins. The foliage of this plant contains a toxic white latex. Each mature stem terminates in a panicle of flowers up to ¾' long and 1' across. This panicle is somewhat flat-headed and it has an open airy appearance. Individual flowers span about ¼" across (including their petaloid bracts). Each flower has a tiny cup-like cyathium containing the reproductive organs, 5 white petaloid bracts, and 5 green glandular appendages at the bases of these bracts. Because Flowering Spurge is monoecious, separate male (staminate) and female (pistillate) flowers are produced on the same plant. Each male flower has several stamens, while each female flower has an ovary with a tripartite style. The petaloid bracts are obovate in shape; sometimes they are slightly notched at their tips. The branches and pedicels of the inflorescence are light green, glabrous, and terete; pairs of small leafy bracts up to ½" long occur at the bases of pedicels and where the branches divide. The blooming period occurs from early summer to early autumn, lasting about 1-2 months for a colony of plants. There is no floral fragrance. During this time, an entire plant may lean to one side because of the weight of its inflorescence. Afterwards, the female flowers are replaced by 3-celled capsules of seeds that are 3-4 mm. long, globoid, and 3-lobed in shape; there is one seed for each cell of a capsule. At maturity, these capsules split open to eject their seeds. The seeds are 2-3 mm. long, ovoid-obovoid in shape, and finely mottled. The root system consists of a taproot that becomes woody with age. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full sun and mesic to dry conditions. This plant will tolerate almost any kind of soil, including those that contain loam, clay, sand, gravel, or rocky material. Poor soil is actually preferred because of the reduction in competition from other plants. Drought resistance is excellent and disease is rarely a problem when the soil is well-drained. Range & Habitat: The native Flowering Spurge occurs in every county of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is common. Habitats include black soil prairies, clay prairies, sand prairies, gravel prairies, dolomite prairies, various kinds of hill prairies, openings in rocky upland woodlands, opening in sandy upland woodlands, typical savannas and sandy savannas, thinly wooded bluffs, limestone glades, stabilized sand dunes, roadsides, areas along railroads, mined land, and agricultural land in various stages of abandonment or neglect. Flowering Spurge can be found in either disturbed areas or high quality natural areas. Faunal Associations: The pollen and nectar of the flowers attract Halictid bees, masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Crabronid wasps (Oxybelus spp. & others), paper wasps (Polistes spp.), the Five-banded Tiphiid Wasp (Myzinum quinquecinctum), Sphecid wasps, cuckoo wasps (Chrysididae), Syrphid flies, bee flies (Exoprosopa spp. & others), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophagidae), Muscid flies, and small butterflies, including the endangered Karner Blue (Lycaeides melissa samulelis); see Robertson (1929) and others. Other insects feed on the sap, foliage, and other parts of Flowering Spurge. These species include the Euphorbia Bug (Chariesterus antennator), a flea beetle (Glyptina bicolor), and a monophagous aphid (Aphis pulchella); see Vestal (1913), Clark et al. (2004), and Hottes & Frison (1931). The polyphagous Potato Aphid (Macrosiphum euphorbiae) also feeds on spurges (Euphorbia spp.). The seeds are an attractive source of food to some birds, including the Wild Turkey, Greater Prairie Chicken, Bobwhite Quail, Mourning Dove, and Horned Lark (Martin et al., 1951/1961). Flowering Spurge is rarely eaten by mammalian herbivores because of the toxic white latex in its foliage. Photographic Location: A remnant prairie along an abandoned railroad in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: The typical variety of Flowering Spurge (Euphorbia corollata) has glabrous foliage, but there is an uncommon variety of this plant (var. mollis) with pubescent stems and pubescent leaf undersides. While the foliage is normally some shade of green, during the autumn it often becomes an attractive reddish color. For a species of the Spurge family (Euphorbiaceae), Flowering Spurge is more showy than most because of its relatively large inflorescence and the white petaloid bracts of its flowers. The flowers of most spurges in Illinois, whether native or naturalized, have either green to yellowish green floral bracts, or their floral bracts are tiny and easily overlooked.
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