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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Whether a garden is drenched in sun or deep in shade, at least one of the more than 1,000 begonia species (Begonia spp.) and thousands of begonia cultivars can lift it from mundane to magical. As subtropical and tropical plants, most begonias survive winters outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. Elsewhere, they can be lifted before the first frost and stored indoors for the winter. Frost isn't their only enemy; the humidity begonias love exposes them to powdery mildew. Treat an infection culturally or organically before resorting to chemical fungicide.
The Fungi Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate. The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour. Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Cultural Treatments Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry. To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation.
Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use. The Milk-and-Water Treatment A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association. The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University. Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside. Neem Oil Treatment Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects. Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles. Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Petunias are lively, flowering annuals that come in a variety of colors. Keeping your petunias blooming is fairly straightforward as long as you know what to do and when to do it. Petunias do require regular maintenance throughout the growing season.
Step 1 Plant petunias in full sun. They love the sun and as a result will produce more flowers. Step 2 Fertilize petunias once every three weeks. They like fertilizers that are balanced like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Before applying a liquid fertilizer make sure the plants are well watered. Never fertilize petunias that aren't properly hydrated. Use time-release fertilizer granules in potted plants. This will ensure they are getting a little extra nourishment every time they're watered. Step 3 Examine the petunia plants to see if they are end-of-stem bloomers. If they are, you have to cut the stems back. Otherwise the stems will keep growing longer, get leggy and won't produce flowers. If the stem is 8 inches or longer, start clipping. Pick three or four stems each week to cut back. Clip the stems in half. This will cause the remaining stem portion to grow two branches just below the cut. Each branch will becoming a blooming tip.
Step 4 Look at the dying blooms on the petunia plant. If there is a bulge developing at the base of the bloom it means this variety of petunia plant is a seed producer. Dead head (pinch or cut off the dead flower below the bloom). Make sure the seed bulge is cut off with the flower. This stops the plant from sending its energy to the growing of seeds and instead will use its energy to start producing more flowers. Step 5 Cut back long stemmed petunias that have stopped producing flowers altogether by 2/3 and add fertilizer. Again clip randomly over a seven- to 10-day period. After clipping it'll take the stems three or four weeks to start blooming again.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
To a flower gardener, few things are more satisfying than a hanging basket overflowing with masses of blooms. Although wave petunias lack the stop-in-your-tracks scent of the traditional variety, they provide an eye-catching cascade of bright white, pink and purple flowers that last as long as the warm weather holds. If your once-beautiful wave petunias stop flowering before their season is over, a few approaches will likely remedy the situation.
A Sense of Place Petunias in general are fairly hardy plants during warm weather months and do well in most types of soil. Although they are somewhat drought-tolerant, they prefer a moist, well drained, loamy soil. When watering wave petunias planted as ground cover, direct the water toward their roots. Waterlogged blooms will turn to mush and fall off. Aphid attacks, though possible, are rare and tend not to affect the plant's ability to flower. Wash these tiny pests off with a light spray of water, and then gently shake the water off the blooms to avoid soft rot. Regardless of soil conditions, a petunia plant will bloom either sparingly or not at all if it doesn't receive enough light. These sun-loving annuals bloom most abundantly in full sun and stand up to heat particularly well. If you have a hanging basket of wave petunias that aren't blooming or have stopped blooming, check whether it's in partial or full shade. Switching the plant to a south-facing porch or wall hook will provide the full sun exposure it needs, ensuring a magnificent display all season long. If you're using your multiflora as a ground cover, transplant it to an open space where taller plants won't rob it of sunlight.
Care and Feeding Wave petunias are an increasingly popular class of the multiflora petunia hybrid. Their 1- to 1 1/2-inch flowers grow quickly and tend to out-bloom and outlast their larger, delicately scented counterparts. A well-fed petunia, regardless of variety, will reward you with healthy foliage and masses of color. To revive the blooms on your plant, once a month, add a phosphorus- and potassium-rich fertilizer to your watering can and give the petunias a good soak. The rest of the time, keep the soil moist. Hanging baskets in full sun often need watering once a day to thrive during the hottest days of the summer. You may get lucky and be able to completely revive a drooping petunia, but there's a fine line between droopy and dead, so watering often is highly recommended. Drastic Measures, Dramatic Results All varieties of petunia benefit from constant grooming. If the foliage is growing without blooms, pinch off the old withered blooms. This make the plant substantially more attractive and redirect the plant's energy into producing more flowers. Though you may be tempted to let the plant continue to grow in length (up to 3 feet for the wave variety), you'll discover it becomes less attractive and more scraggly when it's allowed to continue down this path. Mid-season, bite the bullet and cut back the petunia plant by half. Within a week you'll be rewarded with a resurrection of the bushy, flower-heavy plant that tempted your pocketbook at the beginning of the season. All season long, don't hesitate to cut back any rangy growth for the same result.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Nothing shouts "Summer!" more emphatically than hanging baskets brimming with masses of petunias (Petunia spp.) Where they don't bloom year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones [10 through 11](http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=264607&isprofile=0&letter=p), petunias cover themselves in fragrant flowers – some up to 4 inches wide – from early spring until the first killing frost. Although hanging-basket petunias require more attention than their garden-planted counterparts, their enthusiastic performance is well worth the extra effort. Feed for Flowers The cascades of color that make petunia hanging baskets so appealing won't materialize without at least six hours of daily sun and regular doses of fertilizer. Producing all those trailing stems of flowers takes lots of energy. To give them the best start, mix slow-release 5-10-5 granulated plant food into the soil before planting. One manufacturer recommends using 2 teaspoons for each 1 square foot of soil. After adding the petunias, fill the container with soil and water well. Rain and maintenance watering both leach nutrients from hanging baskets. Yellowing leaves are a sign of nutrient deficiency. When they appear, begin fertilizing the petunias with liquid, 5-10-5 plant food every 10 days to two weeks for the remainder of the growing season. Mix a solution of 4 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of the plant food and 1 gallon of water. Water Wisely Hanging baskets dry out quickly. In hot, dry weather, petunias may need watering twice a day. Overwatering, however, may rot their roots. When you do water, stop only when water begins draining from the bottom of the baskets.
Groom for Growth Many petunia varieties need regular grooming to look their best for an entire growing season. If their spent flowers are allowed to go to seed, they'll stop blooming. Deadheading, the practice of pinching old blooms off below the thickened base where seeds form, keeps new ones coming. If the plants become overgrown, prune them back by one-third. Using clean, sharp stem cutters, make each pruning cut just above a set of leaves. Healthy new growth and flowers soon follow. Potential Diseases Petunias' occasional diseases include root rot from excessively wet soil. As long as their baskets have at least four drainage holes, root rot isn't likely. Gray mold surfaces as fuzzy, grayish to brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The fungus loves humidity, so don't overcrowd baskets. Water the petunias at their bases so the leaves stay dry . Late blight causes water-soaked, irregular spots on young leaves. Affected leaves eventually turn brown and die. Spraying weekly with ready-to-use chlorothalonil protects the plants when warm days, cool nights and wet weather favor the disease. Spray until the fungicide drips from their leaves. Yellow mottling on petunia leaves indicates tobacco mosaic virus. Other symptoms include stunted or distorted growth and leaf lesions. No cure exists; dispose of infected plants and their potting mix and baskets in sealed plastic bags, and disinfect any gardening tools they may have contaminated in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol.
Potential Pests Aphids drain sap from tender new stems and leaves, covering them in sticky waste called honeydew. Tiny black flea beetles typically arrive in midsummer to chew holes in the backs of the leaves. Organic, ready-to-use pyrethrin insecticide kills both insects. Spray the plants until they drip, being sure to cover the backs of the leaves where the insects usually feed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Flowering annuals bring bright colors to gardens and hanging baskets starting with the first blooms of spring through the summer and into autumn. However, many annual flowering plants need a little help to look their best and benefit from deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms and foliage. Impatiens generally don't require deadheading as they are a self-cleaning plant that naturally sheds spent blooms, according to North Carolina State University Extension. However, even impatiens can benefit from deadheading if the plant has become stressed and has lost the majority of its blooms at the same time.
Step 1 Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking. Step 2 Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3 Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Some cockscomb flowers (Celosia argentea var. cristata) are feathery plumes, some are spikes and some look like wrinkled brains or tangled yarn, but all thrive in well-drained, moist soil in full sun. The four cockscomb groups are Plumosa, Spicata, Cristata and Childsii. Cockscombs usually grow as annual plants, but in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 they're short-lived perennials. Garden centers and nurseries sell cockscombs in plant cell packs in spring.
Hardening Off Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside. Planting Out Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups. Caring for Cockscombs With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.
Buying Cockscombs Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Wave petunias are popular for their full spreading habit and ample bloom counts. They can tolerate heat and long periods between watering, but only under optimal conditions. If they're packed in close on soil that doesn't hold any water during hot, windy, dry months while insects are sucking every drop from their leaves, well, you'll need to give them some extra attention. Look at the specifics of the environment they're growing in before deciding you have a black thumb.
Spacing Petunias can handle a crowd, but only if there is ample soil and a good watering schedule. If petunias are packed into a garden or, worse, packed into a planter, they will need frequent, deep watering to compete. Wave petunias spread, so plant them at least 1 1/2 feet from other plants. The roots spread, too. The roots need this space for root surface area to absorb more water. Soil Sandy soils drain and transpire quickly. This means water will get too low in the ground or rise to the surface and evaporate before the thirsty petunias can get to it. Loamy soils are better, and clay soils hold water best. A soil with a balance of all of these is ideal, since sand will keep the ground from getting soggy and hard-packed, loam will provide nutrients, and clay will hold water. Beware of super-light potting soil: it loses water very quickly. Disease and Insect Issues Look for other signs of problems with your wave petunias other than dry leaves and blooms. Are there spots or insects on the plant? Are some areas yellowing, turning brown or discoloring faster than others? If you can't identify the culprit, take one of your problem plants to a garden center. Be sure to take the entire plant, including the roots and a 3-inch by 3-inch section of the soil the roots are growing in. Many diseases or insect problems can be spotted easily by professionals who're used to seeing them. Watering Habits Often it's the simplest problem that's overlooked. It may seem like you're watering your petunias all the time, but check the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. If it's dry, then the petunias need a good, deep watering. You may have to boost your watering regime. Watch out for windy days or low humidity. Weather like this can suck the moisture out of the plants much more quickly, and you'll have to water sooner than you usually do.
Considerations Invest in good, water-retaining soil before planting. If your petunias are already in the ground, mulch about 2 inches around the plants and water it in well. Dry mulch pulls moisture from the soil, too. Choose planting containers that are deep and wide to accommodate plenty of moisture-storing soil, and they should be made from a material such as durable plastic or ceramic that will not transpire easily. Don't overfertilize your petunias. The more you fertilize, the more they'll grow, and the more water those thirsty plants will need.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Impatiens add color to shaded garden beds. Available in colors ranging from pink to deep lavender, impatiens produce abundant blooms amongst bright green foliage. These annual flowers thrive in the cooler weather of spring, but can bloom all summer long with proper care. If impatiens aren't blooming well, they likely aren't receiving the nutrients, water or maintenance they need.
Soil and Location For the best blooms, choose a garden bed that receives dappled sunlight all day or morning shade and afternoon sun. Impatiens can't tolerate the direct mid-day sun. Plant in beds that also provide good drainage. The flowers thrive in rich loam soils that aren't prone to standing water. Apply compost to the bed before planting to improve the quality of the soil and improve the blooms on the plants. Fertilizing Impatiens are heavy feeders, so additional fertilization is needed throughout the growing season to replenish the plants for reblooming. Impatiens require nitrogen to produce healthy foliage and phosphorus to bloom. A fertilizer that provides equal amounts of these nutrients, such as a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 analysis, works well in most gardens. Reapply the fertilizer every six to eight weeks throughout spring and summer so the impatiens are never starved for nutrients. Watering Proper irrigation ensures the soil never dries out completely. Impatiens can't tolerate drought, so watering regularly is necessary, otherwise the plants suffer and blooms diminish. Provide enough water to moisten the top 6 inches of soil at each watering, which is about equal to 1 inch of rainfall. Water one to two times a week, or when the soil surface just begins to dry. Mulching around the plants helps keep the soil moist between watering. Water at the base of plants so the flowers and foliage remain dry. Wet plants are susceptible to powdery mildew.
Pruning Come midsummer, a combination of heat and older plants can lead to impatiens becoming leggy. They may also begin blooming poorly at this time. Improve both the shape of the impatiens and the amount of flowers by pinching back the plants. Pinch back all the stems to within 3 inches of the ground, leaving at least one set of leaves on each stem. Impatiens quickly produce new growth and return to full bloom within a couple of weeks after pinching. The foliage also returns fuller and rounder, giving a better shape to the plants.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Portulaca is a large-flowered variety of purslane. It adds annual color to the flower garden, blooming from early summer until the first fall frost. Flowering may decline at midseason if portulaca isn't regularly deadheaded. Seed production uses up energy in the plant, so that there are no resources available for flowering. Removing the old flowers before they have a chance to form seeds, called deadheading, encourages the portulaca to continue producing its colorful and showy blossoms.
Step 1 Inspect portulaca plants in the morning for spent blooms. Flowers close in late afternoon and overnight, so flowers may appear spent at these times when they are not. All active flowers are open in the morning. Step 2 Pinch off the withered blossoms. Remove the blossoms and the top ¼ inch of stem, so that the entire seed producing structure is removed from the plant.
Step 3 Cut out any dead or damaged stems or leaves completely. Remove these at the base of the plant. Step 4 Dispose of or compost the removed flowers and leaves. Old plant matter left in the bed may provide bedding for insects or disease organisms.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
While begonias produce lovely, delicate flowers, they are heat-loving annuals that landscapers depend upon for their toughness. Depending upon your landscape conditions, there is a begonia to fit the bill. Begonias come in many varieties, with light requirements ranging from full sun to heavy shade. In fact, there are over 1,500 named begonia species; this lists focuses on the most popular and readily available varieties. Remember that begonias are annuals, meaning they will not survive freezing temperatures. Unless you live in a tropical climate, you'll need to replant your begonias each year.
Bronze Leaf Begonias Bronze leaf begonias have a reddish, bronze cast. With their reddish, bronze-tinted leaves, bronze leaf sempenflorens begonias, also called wax begonias, are striking in appearance and tough in spirit. They can stand up to the summer sun in many parts of the country. However, in some very hot climates, bronze leaf begonias may scorch in full sun. Crispy brown leaf edges are a sign that your begonias need a break from the sun. Green Leaf Begonias Green leaf begonias have bright or light green leaves. Also a sempenflorens or wax variety, green leaf begonias are very similar in appearance to their bronze leaf cousins, but can easily be distinguished by their bright green or light green leaves. While the bronze leaf varieties thrive in full sun, green leaf begonias require shade or dappled shade, with, at most, gentle morning sun. While they bloom no matter how high the temperature rises, they scorch in too much sun. Brown, dried leaf edges will alert you that your green leaf begonias are getting too much sun.
Angel Wing Begonias Angel wing begonias have leaves that resemble wings. Angel wing begonias, also called cane begonias or dragon wing begonias, can be identified by their wing-shaped leaves and bamboo-like stems. Angel wing begonias are some of the largest begonias, with cane-like stems that can grow up to 15 feet tall in tropical climates, where they have the opportunity to grow season after season. Angel wing begonias can take full sun in cooler months, but need some shade in hotter months. Growing them in pots allows you to move them throughout the growing season as necessary. Tuberous Begonias In general, tuberous begonias produce larger, more-rounded flowers than other types. Like other types of begonias, tuberous begonias bloom all summer long regardless of the heat. Tuberous begonias do best in bright indirect light, protected from strong direct sunlight that can burn their tender leaves. Tuberous begonias are prized for their larger, rounded flowers. Unlike other begonia species, tuberous begonias grow from tubers, which can be dug up in the fall before the first freeze, stored over the winter and replanted the following spring.
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