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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Brightly colored zinnias are a welcome sight in summer gardens. Once the weather warms up, zinnias are easy to grow in sunny flowerbeds and borders. They are attractive whether grown en masse or in clumps of three, five or seven plants in a mixed border. Not only are they easy to grow, they have a long vase life too, making them a favorite among veteran gardeners.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise. Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety. Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin. Cutting Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
While most summer-blooming annuals require several hours of bright sunlight every day, impatiens are one of few annuals that thrive with little light. Although impatiens are low-maintenance plants, proper watering is critical as impatiens have fleshy stems that wilt when the plants become too dry. Without water, impatiens become stressed and blooming decreases.
Soil Drainage Impatiens thrive in moist soil, but it's critical that the soil drains well. Although impatiens wilt in dry soil, they may rot and die in wet, soggy soil. Proper drainage is just as important for impatiens planted in containers. Containerized impatiens must be planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Use a good quality, peat-based potting mixture, as good quality potting soil retains water longer than poor quality potting soil. Improve drainage by using a mixture of half potting soil and half perlite. Watering Impatiens in Flower Beds As a general rule, impatiens planted in flower beds benefit from watering once every week. Water deeply enough to saturate the roots. During periods of hot, dry weather, impatiens may need water more frequently. If the top of the soil feels dry or if the plant begins to wilt, water immediately. Impatiens do best when watered at the base of the plant so the foliage remains dry. If you use a sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before evening. If foliage is wet during the cooler evening hours, the plant is more susceptible to fungal disease and other problems caused by excessive moisture. Impatiens in Containers Impatiens planted in pots require water more frequently, as potting soil in containers dries quickly. Check the impatiens daily and water whenever the top of the potting soil feels dry. During hot, dry weather, impatiens may require water twice daily. Never allow the potting soil to dry completely.
Sunlight Impatiens don't do well in full sunlight, nor do they thrive in full shade. Locate impatiens where the plants are exposed to morning sunlight. Alternatively, plant impatiens in partial shade or filtered light. Avoid placing impatiens in afternoon sunlight, as the intense light will fade the colors and may harm the plant. The brighter the sunlight, the more water is required. Maintenance Cut impatiens stems down to about 3 to 4 inches if plants begin to look spindly during midsummer. Pinching removes unattractive foliage and produces a flush of new growth that lasts until the end of the blooming season. Fertilize impatiens in a flower bed every month, using a general purpose water-soluble fertilizer. Alternatively, mix a time-release fertilizer into the soil at planting time. Use a water-soluble fertilizer for containerized impatiens every other week. Apply fertilizer according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Marigolds are annual flowering plants. Native to Mexico, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Marigolds are related to asters and grow easily from seed or transplanted bedding plants. These plants bloom in summer with colors in shades of yellow, orange and red with solid, bi-color and striped flowers. Choose varieties from 6 to 36 inches in height. Cut back marigolds to encourage healthy foliage and prolific flowering.
Pinching Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers. Deadheading Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost. Pest Control Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Marigolds (Tagetes sp.) are an easy-to-care-for, colorful annual, often used for borders, containers and color massing. Nearly all marigolds bloom heartily from early summer until the first hard frost, according to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, preferring full sun and healthy, well-draining soil. Other plants grow well with marigolds. There are several ways to select plants that grow well with marigolds.
Companion Planting Perhaps the best-known example of companion planting is the Native American method of planting corn, beans and squash together. These "three sisters" complement and protect each other, making all three plants thrive in the same location. Marigolds are widely used in companion planting and are thought to deter many pests. According to the Alabama Cooperative Extension System, marigolds help keep nematodes, whiteflies, Mexican bean beetles and tomato hornworms at bay. Marigolds make a fine companion for any plant plagued by these pests, including tomatoes, corn, potatoes, beans, and hot-house and greenhouse plants. Complimentary Colors Another way to select plants to place beside marigolds is choosing those of a complementary color. As the DePaul University explains it, in art theory, a complementary color is one that shares no color with its complement. For example, green complements red because it's made of blue and yellow while red is not. Following this theory, yellow and orange marigolds "pop" beautifully alongside blue and purplish flowers like bachelor buttons, alliums, asters, anemones, bluebells, columbine, delphinium, hydrangea, iris, pansies, phlox, salvia, violets and veronica.
Plants with Height Because marigolds are short plants growing 6 inches to 4 feet tall, according to the West Virginia Extension Service, they also work well in front of taller plants. Marigolds, particularly taller varieties, help hide unattractive, bare stems and add interesting layers to the garden. From this point of view, iris, morning glories, lavender, baptisia and clematis or any vine are excellent choices. Marigolds also do a nice job of covering the soil in a pot containing taller plants like dwarf trees. Fill in Plants Planners use marigolds to cover up the location of spring-blooming plants, especially those that die back completely after blooming, as many spring bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, crocus and scilla. If planted when the spring bloomers begin dying back, marigolds help hide the dying plants and offer more green foliage to the garden. Rarely do marigolds need fill in plants themselves, since most varieties bloom until late fall.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Miss Chen
Few annuals are as dependably cheerful as marigolds (Tagetes patula). Easy to grow and long-blooming, these reliable plants start flowering in early summer and continue until frost if their old blooms are snipped. They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. Marigolds grow best if watered deeply at least once a week.
About Marigolds Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply. Watering New Plants Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation. Fertilizer Precaution Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Miss Chen
The flowers of orchids (Orchidaceae) last several weeks or several months, depending on the orchid species. Tropical orchids bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from white through reds, pinks, yellows and all mixtures between. An orchid needs treatment different than other types of houseplants, but encouraging an orchid's natural blooming tendencies is not difficult once it is on a basic care routine.
Container and Potting Medium An orchid grows well in either a clay or plastic pot. A clay pot allows easier absorption of oxygen to the plant. The hole on the pot's bottom can be enlarged to ensure adequate drainage.Orchids do not thrive in garden soil and do not bloom well when planted in an ordinary houseplant potting medium. The thick, fleshy roots of an orchid attach themselves to tree bark in the plant's natural growing environment. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and bark rather than from soil. Use a commercially prepared orchid potting medium that contains chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic rock,charcoal, peat moss, fir bark or a combination of these to ensure healthy growth and blooming(ref.1). Light Level The American Orchid Society identifies lack of sufficient light as the most frequent cause of an orchid's failure to bloom. Orchid leaves are light, grassy green with yellow undertones when they receive sufficient light. Dark-green leaves indicate the plant does not receive enough light. Cymbidium (Cymbidium spp.) variety orchids, which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 10 are often grown in the dappled shade of large trees.(new ref. in comments box) An east- or south-facing window with bright filtered light provides the optimum environment for a blooming orchid. Too much direct sunlight causes burn spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can be used to create desirable shade. Move the orchid closer to or farther from the window to manipulate the amount of light the plant receives.
Air and Water Orchid roots must have freely circulating air with gentle flowing movement. A stagnant atmosphere discourages healthy growth and bloom development. An overhead paddle fan set on the lowest speed, an open window or a slow-moving fan across the room move air sufficiently for orchid health. A fan should be directed away from the plant. An orchid thrives with once-a-week watering, unless it dries out sooner. A plastic pot feels lighter when its potting medium is dry than when it is wet, and a clay pot feels dry to the touch when its potting medium is dry. When watering, soak the potting medium thoroughly so water runs out the bottom of the pot. Thorough soaking flushes out salts that accumulated. Fertilizer Schedule Most orchid species have their bloom cycles in late winter or spring. They grow and flower for fairly long periods of time without fertilizer but produce more blooms when fertilized regularly.Use a water-soluble or granulated type commercial fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. A balanced 20-20-20 formula is recommended by the American Orchid Society(ref.3). Mix 1/4 teaspoon to one gallon of room-temperature water. Moisten the surface and roots only, not the foliage. Allow the water to run through the potting material and out the drainage hole. (see new ref. in comments section) A feeding schedule of every two weeks during active growth phases and every four weeks during rest cycles. Reduce water after spring flowering until new growth appears.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Miss Chen
Growing orchids indoors brings a touch of the tropics into your home. These perennial beauties crave the humidity and light of their native jungle environments, but they're far from fussy when grown inside. Species from the Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and Dendrobium genus are commonly grown as houseplants. It's smart to start with an established plant, which should be planted in a pot with drainage holes containing fir tree bark chips, sphagnum moss, tree fern fiber or other similar materials suited for tropical orchid growth. Provide them with warmth, sunlight, and a regular watering schedule to ensure these exotic flowers thrive and bloom in your home.
Increase Humidity Place an established, potted orchid on a tray of pebbles covered to the top in water. This increases humidity for the orchid, which is necessary for successful blooming. Alternatively, keep a humidifier in the room near the orchid. Humidity should be around 50 percent for epiphytic orchids. Provide Lots of Light Place the orchid in a well-lit window, preferably facing east or south to let in the ideal light intensity. Watch the leaf color to determine whether your orchid is receiving too much or too little light; dark green indicates that the orchid needs more light, while yellow leaves are receiving too much sun. Orchids may be protected from intense light with a sheer curtain. You can also grow orchids under artificial light -- specifically four fluorescent tubes that are 4 feet long and placed 6 inches apart. Set the orchids 6 to 8 inches under the tubes, and keep the tubes lit for 14 to 16 hours every day. Keep the Temperature Comfortable Keep the temperature range between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit for the orchid. The good news is that this is a typical room temperature comfortable for humans, so it shouldn't be hard to live with your orchid. Just make sure the orchid doesn't become overheated or chilled next to the window glass during the heat of midday or on cold nights. Water Once a Week Water the orchid thoroughly in tepid water once a week, preferably by the afternoon to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall in case it accidentally gets splashed. Allow the water to drain afterwards; waterlogging can kill orchids faster than a period of mild drought. In between waterings, let the orchid's potting materials dry out until they feel almost dry to the touch. This is important for all kinds of orchids, including black orchids (Coelogyne pandurata). Fertilize Once or Twice a Month As a general rule, fertilize twice a month during growth periods and once a month during rest periods. Choose a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer formulated specifically for orchids, such as a 20-20-20 blend which has an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Orchids grown in bark need a higher ratio of nitrogen, such as a 30-10-10 or 15-5-5 blend. One orchid fertilizer recommends 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but always follow label directions. Every month, water pot thoroughly to flush out any accumulated salts.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Miss Chen
It is time to transplant your orchid when the roots are growing over the side of the pot or the lower leaves have died and weakened the center stem. The plant has either become too big for the container or the potting medium has broken down and no longer supports the plant. Always wait for an orchid to finish blooming before transplanting.
Transplanting Materials Gather together new potting medium, hand-held pruners and a pot one size bigger than its present container. The potting medium must be fast-draining and also water-retentive. Commercial orchid potting medium contains volcanic rock, coconut fiber, tree bark, charcoal or a combination of these. Aliflor is an expanding clay medium that is often used in orchid mixes. Bark-based potting medium drains well but breaks down easily. Peat-based material retains moisture well but must be replaced yearly. Choose either clay or plastic pots for your orchid. Ensure the hand-held pruners are sterilized with alcohol before using, to prevent the spread of harmful bacteria. Remove Orchid From Pot Grasp the orchid plant by the main stem and gently remove it from the overturned pot. A very root-bound plant will be difficult to shake loose, and sometimes the pot needs to be broken. Remove all of the old potting medium by shaking the plant and picking the medium out from between the roots. Do not reuse any of this material in the transplant process. Gently wash off the orchid roots with water to remove fine particles. Pull off dead or weak lower leaves and pull off plant tissue at the leaf juncture. Prune all shriveled roots carefully with hand-held pruners, being careful not to cut healthy growth. Dead tissue is hollow when squeezed or wiry looking. New Pot Choose a plastic or clay pot that will accommodate the entire root system comfortably. Cover the bottom of the pot with a thin layer of potting mix. Place the plant in the pot with the lower leaves slightly above the rim. Place and push potting material in the spaces between the roots, pressing gently as you go. Ensure the bottom leaves remain slightly above the pot rim. Tap the pot gently to settle the materials and add more if needed to fill the space. Experienced orchid gardeners add a label to each plant indicating its name and bloom time.
Water and Ongoing Care An orchid needs to be soaked thoroughly after it has been transplanted to a new pot. Always use tepid water and soak long enough so all the planting material is wet. Allow the pot to drain completely and empty the drip pan so the roots do not continue to absorb water through the drainage hole. Orchids are watered once a week after the transplant. Fertilize monthly with 1/2-strength commercial orchid fertilizer during summer and fall. Do not fertilize during the spring flowering cycle.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Miss Chen
Most orchids these days are propagated by methods that would be difficult or impossible for the home gardener, including mericloning or the raising of seedlings in sterile flasks. Fortunately, many orchids also can be reproduced by easier means, including stem cuttings, back-bulb cuttings, top cuttings and keiki cuttings. To take cuttings, you'll need either a sharp knife or pruning shears. Disinfect these tools between cuts by dipping their blades in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water.
Stem Cuttings For stem cuttings, you need a waterproof tray about 3 inches deep. Fill it either with damp sphagnum moss, damp sand or a mix of both. Then clip a cane that's at least 10 inches long, severing it near the orchid's base and just above a node, which is a leaf joint. Cut the cane into pieces that retain at least two nodes each, and coat the raw ends of the pieces with a powdered antifungal such as charcoal, cinnamon or sulfur. After laying the pieces horizontally on top of the medium in the tray, press them only lightly into it so that their surfaces remain uncovered. Encase the tray in a transparent plastic bag and place it in a warm location where it will receive bright light but no direct sun. In about three to four months, some of the cuttings may send up new plantlets from the nodes. This method can work for Dendrobium, Phaius and Epidendrum (all hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 12), or Ludisia and Thunia (both hardy in USDA zones 11 through 12) orchids, though the success rate may be low for some species. Back-Bulb Cuttings Pseudobulbs are the swollen bases of stems on the types of orchids that grow via horizontal rhizomes. Eventually the leaves drop off the oldest "bulbs." Although a bare-back bulb may appear worthless, it generally has dormant eyes peeking up from around its base. To force these eyes into growth, snip the rhizome connecting the back bulb to the rest of the orchid plant, using sterile pruning shears or a knife. Plant the bulb in a pot of fine orchid bark with its eyes just above the surface. If you position the pot in bright, indirect light, watering it as you would the parent plant, the bulb may begin to sprout and put down roots in a few weeks.
This should work for most orchids that make pseudobulbs, such as Cattleya (USDA zones 10 through 12) and Cymbidium (USDA zones 9 through 11) -- except for Odontoglossum (USDA zones 10 through 12), whose eyes lose viability quickly. Top Cuttings For orchids that produce lots of aerial roots on their stems, such as Epidendrum (USDA zones 9 or 10 through 12) and Vanda (USDA zone 12), you can simply remove and replant a cane that has grown too tall. When detaching it, find a node that is surrounded by aerial roots, both above and below. Cut beneath the node, so the cutting is already rooted when removed. Pot it in the same type of medium in which it originally grew, with the node and its accompanying roots beneath the surface. The cutting will need a stake for support until its roots take hold to anchor it in place. Keiki Cuttings A keiki -- Hawaiian for "baby" -- is a plantlet that may sometimes form on a stem or near the base of an orchid. Allow it to continue growing on the parent plant until it has roots at least 1 inch long and two or three leaves. Water the parent plant on the day before you plan to remove the keiki. Then cut its stem beneath the roots and plant it in a pot of fine orchid bark, keeping its roots near the surface. Keikis may appear on Epidendrum, Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis (USDA zones 11 through 12) or Vanda orchids and should bloom about 1 1/2 to 3 years after their appearance.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Miss Chen
Burn spots on leaves, dark-green or weak leaves, a weak center stem and failure to bloom are all signs that an orchid (Orchidaceae) is failing to thrive. It is not yet dead, though, and can return to blooming with a correct diagnosis of its problem and a few simple steps to correct it.
Diagnose the Problem Healthy orchid leaves are grassy green with yellow undertones. Dark-green leaves are a symptom of not enough light exposure. White or brown dry areas on orchid leaves indicate sunburn. The sun damage is irreversible in small or large areas that turn black. Sun-damaged spots do not harm the plant's health or flowering, but continued exposure to excessive light continues the damage. Overwatering causes root rot because the roots are not able to absorb enough oxygen when full of water. The symptoms include swollen, soft roots and wrinkled leaves. Underwatering turns roots white and makes the plant susceptible to diseases. Brown-tipped orchid leaves and inhibited growth indicate overfertilization. A weak center stem and wilted lower leaves may indicate the plant is simply too crowded and needs to be repotted. A pot-bound orchid also may have weak leaves, or its roots may spill over its pot's side. Lessen Sun Damage and Overwatering Sunburn spots are alleviated easily by reducing the amount of direct sunlight that falls onto the orchid. Orchids grow best with a south- or east-facing window exposure. Use a sheer curtain to increase shade.
Water the plant's potting medium only one time per week if root rot is the problem, and ensure the potting medium has not disintegrated. Orchids available in markets and garden centers are often grown in peat moss mixtures that disintegrate after one or two seasons. Peat moss becomes sodden and retains water easily. Water should drain quickly out of the plant container's bottom after the potting medium has been soaked thoroughly. Feed the Plant "Fertilize weakly, weekly" is the standard advice from many orchid growers. Revitalize an underfertilized or overfertilized plant by putting it on a healthy feeding schedule. Either commercial orchid fertilizer in granulated or liquid form, or houseplant fertilizer is beneficial. Choose a 20-20-20 formula that has little or no urea, which may attract bacterial growth. Dilute the fertilizer's label-recommended dosage to ¼ strength by mixing it with water, and use it weekly. Always fertilize after the plant's soil has been thoroughly soaked with water to avoid root burn. Repot a Crowded Plant A pot-bound orchid comes to life again when it is put in a larger container and given new potting material. Repotting alleviates potential disease problems and encourages healthy growth. Choose a clay or plastic container one size bigger than the present one. Ensure the container has bottom drainage holes. Commercial growing material for orchids is either bark-based or peat moss-based. The nutrients in either of those types help to revive an orchid that is not blooming or has weak leaf development. Shake off all the old potting material as you replant the orchid. Cut off roots that are dry and shriveled or white and swollen, leaving ones that are firm to the touch.
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