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权问薇
2018年04月15日
权问薇
[图片]1、这种植物对肥料的需求 相对来说,它对肥料的需求量还是挺大的。特别是在一些特定的时期,比如它成长的旺盛期,以及开花过后等时期。 [图片]2、具体方法 (1)上面我们已经说过了,早在种植之前,就应该施加一些基肥帮助它成长了。具体来说,我们可以使用一些有机的堆肥或者一些粗的颗粒状有机肥作为它的基肥。这样做,不仅可以大大提高其肥力,也可以使它变得更加透气,有助于根部的呼吸。不过,需要注意,基肥主要选择的是有机肥料。至于化学肥料,少一些是可以的,多了就不行了。 (2)再就是关于成长期的肥料。因为它的球根比较小,所以它储存营养的能力就要弱一些。那么,我们可以适当追加一些含有磷、还有钾元素的肥。 (3)接下来就是开过花之后了。将花梗剪掉之后,就可以正常养护了。这时候,需要每间隔十天左右施加一次液态肥料,以钾元素为主。 [图片]3、注意事项 (1)我们都知道,具体的施肥时间是很重要的,有些时间是不宜施肥的。比如,在阴雨天的时候,就不要施加了。这是因为,土壤过于潮湿。 (2)再就是浓度的问题了。每次我们说到施肥问题的时候,总是免不了要提到浓度问题。像其它许多植物一样,给这种植物施加的肥料浓度也不可过高。 [图片]
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权问薇
2018年04月15日
权问薇
[图片]一、时间 用它扦插来繁衍最好在春夏时节进行,四到六月份是最好的时候,因为在这个时间段气温保持在20℃之上,没有太阳的暴晒,用来扦插的苗就更加容易活下来并且成长。 [图片]二、过程 1、首先从母树上选择成长非常健壮的枝条,把它截取下来,只需要留下7-10㎝左右,在枝条上留下来一两个叶柄,上面的叶片只需要留下来一半,其他的全部剪掉。把它剪下来以后可以用蜡把伤口处封上,这样水分就不会挥发掉。 2、用一个大小比较适中并且排水效果好的盆作为它扦插的盆,寻找一些沙质土,要足够松软,然后把土进行消毒后放在盆中,把枝条插进去就行了。如果是在四五月份的时候插,插入土中的部分需要占到整个枝条的三分之二,再把它放在半阴区域养护。如果是六月份插,需要把枝插进土中五分之二,再把它放在全阴的环境下。一般情况下为了提高它存活的几率,最好剪枝之后就立马扦插。 3、把它插进土中以后要给它浇透水,然后用透明的袋子把盆给套住,这样下雨的时候就不会被淋到,细菌等也不能侵害到它,而且这样做最重要的优势在于可以让枝条保持一定的水分,就不会由于水分挥发而死掉,这能更好的保护它的成长。 [图片]三、日常养护 在把它进行扦插以后,大概两个月左右它就可以长出根,萌生枝芽。在这两个月之间要每隔几天就要把塑料袋给拆开,让它透气。同时要注意土的状况,如果干了就要给它浇水,帮助它增加湿度。等到枝条上新生的叶散开之后就可以把塑料袋去掉了,也就可以给幼株更换新盆了。 [图片]
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巴黎铁塔
2018年04月15日
巴黎铁塔
[图片]一、生理落叶 如果在养护的过程中没有采取错误的养护措施,但是它还是叶子变黄了,说明这很有可能是自然现象的落叶。这时候落下的叶子都是在枝条的中下部位,老掉的叶子变黄是它的自然现象,接下来会长出新的叶子,不用过于担心。 办法:将黄掉的叶子给摘掉就可以了。 [图片]二、温度不适 它在高温环境下才能成长的更好,温度最好控制在22-28℃,对它的成长才是最好的。一旦低于8℃,它的叶就会掉落。 办法:如果冬天屋外的温度比较低,就应当把它移到屋中,给它注意保暖。 三、浇水不当 如果盆中的水太多了它的根会被水浸泡,不能呼吸,根就会烂掉,这时候叶就会变黄掉落。要是天气比较干燥,它就会不只是老掉的叶变黄,新生的叶也会变黄。 办法:应该要给它用疏松透气,排水性能比较好的土,下雨天不能有积水在盆中。如果土的表面有点变白了就可以给它浇水了,每次给它浇水都要给它浇透,不能只洒一点点水。要是天气很干就要多给它浇点水。 [图片]四、施药太多 在它得病或者生虫之后,如果给它喷药的时候剂量太大了,它的叶也会发黄。 办法:可以给它换土更换新盆来帮助它把药盖给降低。 五、缺乏元素 要是它缺乏N,Mn,B之类的元素,它的叶片也会变黄。 办法:要根据实际情况给它用有针对性的肥,帮助它健康长大。 [图片]
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Spaghetti squash, one of the common and popular winter squash varieties, grows into a large oval squash with a yellow or orange skin. Most spaghetti squash varieties mature in three to four months. If you lack garden space, grow a vine variety of spaghetti squash on a trellis to conserve soil area. Because the spaghetti squash become quite large as they mature, rig a support system for the growing squash. [图片]Step 1 Prepare a sunny growing location after the final spring frost. Cultivate the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Add 4 inches of compost to the top of the soil and work the compost and the soil completely to mix them. Rake the soil surface smooth. Step 2 Insert the wood or metal trellis system into the soil. Pound the bottom of the trellis into the soil with a hammer to drive it at least 8 inches into the ground. Step 3 Plant the spaghetti squash seeds along both sides of the trellis, positioning the seeds four to six inches from the trellis. Sow two seeds together about 1 inch deep, spacing the seeds about 12 inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with soil. Step 4 Water the seeds generously immediately after planting and keep the soil moist while the seeds germinate – about one to two weeks. Provide water for the growing spaghetti squash plants if less than 1 inch of rain falls in a one-week period. [图片]Step 5 Thin the seedlings when they reach a height of 4 inches. Remove the weakest seedlings to leave one plant growing every 12 inches along the trellis. Step 6 Apply the fertilizer to the seedlings by sprinkling 1/4 lb. of granular fertilizer for every 10 feet of seedlings. Apply the fertilizer approximately three weeks after you see the first blossoms and work the fertilizer into the soil well with a hand rake. Step 7 Pull weeds as they appear, to keep the soil area free of competing plants. Step 8 Tie the vines to the trellis with the stretchy plant ties to train the vines. Support the main vines by tying them loosely to the trellis. Step 9 Cut a 2-foot length of cheesecloth for each spaghetti squash that begins to grow on the plants. Tie the cheesecloth so it acts as a sling for the squash and tie the ends of the cheesecloth to the trellis. Step 10 Harvest spaghetti squash before the first autumn frost, when the skins turn yellow. The skin should feel firm to the touch. Use a sharp knife to cut the squash from the vines, leaving about 3 inches of vine protruding from the squashes.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Okra seeds need optimal conditions to germinate. The seed coat is thick and hard, inhibiting germination unless the seeds are treated to enhance germination. Some seeds are scarified with acid by the seed producer to increase germination rates. Check the package expiration date, old seeds are less likely to germinate. Under ideal conditions, your okra should germinate within seven days. [图片]Conditions that Encourage Sprouting Okra grows best in well-drained soils with a pH between 6.5 to 7.5. It is a hot-weather crop that prefers full sun. Sow the seeds directly into the garden or plant them in peat pots for later transplanting. Plant the seeds 3/4 to 1 inch deep in hills 12 to 24 inches apart. Plant two seeds per hole and thin the plants, leaving the strongest plant when they reach approximately 3 inches tall. Soak the Seeds For Better Germination Iowa State University Extension recommends soaking the seeds overnight before planting to soften the seed coat and increase the germination rate. Soaking for four to six hours will do the job. Either cover the seeds in water or wrap them in damp paper towels. Freeze the Seeds for Better Germination Another way to increase the chances of germination is to freeze the seeds before planting, according to the Clemson University Extension. Freezing breaks the seed coat and increases potential germination. Place the seeds in the freezer overnight before planting in warm soil. Temperatures for Germination Okra sprouts best in warm soil. Plant it in the spring or early summer when the soil temperature has reached at least 70 degrees F and the daytime temperatures are reaching 75 to 90 degrees. Okra seeds do not sprout in soil temperatures below 65 degrees. [图片]Days to Maturity Viable okra seeds germinate within seven days and then require approximately 48 to 75 days to maturity, depending on the variety. The plants and pods grow very fast and require picking every day or two to prevent the pods from becoming large and fibrous.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Don't let the name fool you. There's nothing sour or citrusy about the flavor of lemon cucumbers. The name comes from the beautiful yellow skin on these uniquely shaped heirloom cucumbers. These round cucumbers have a mild, slightly sweet flavor, and they're much smaller than traditional cucumbers, so they're ideal for snacking. Growing lemon cucumbers is very similar to traditional cucumbers. Knowing when to pick them helps you enjoy the peak of their flavor and ripeness. [图片]Time to Maturity Lemon cucumbers grow fairly quickly. They mature in roughly 60 to 75 days from seed. The seeds take roughly five to 10 days to germinate. More cucumbers grow as you harvest them, so it's best to start picking them as soon as they mature. Lemon cucumbers have a range of time when they taste good, so you don't have to watch the calendar closely and pick it only at a certain time. Signs of Maturity Timing isn't the only factor when it comes to deciding when to harvest lemon cucumbers. Look for signs of maturity in the cucumbers themselves before deciding to harvest. The longer you wait to pick the cucumbers, the thicker the skin becomes and the larger the seeds grow. An overly ripe harvest can also taste bitter. Ripe lemon cucumbers measure between 2 and 3 inches long. Estimate a 2-inch cucumber as roughly the size of an egg. The skin and seeds are edible at that size, although the cucumbers aren't considered fully ripe until they're closer to 3 inches, or roughly the size of a tennis ball. Anything larger is likely too ripe. The skin color is another clue that it's time to harvest. As they ripen, the skin turns from green to light yellow to dark yellow. Pick them when they're just starting to turn yellow. If the ends are yellow, it's a sign they're overripe. Dark yellow skin also means you've waited a little too long to harvest. The cucumbers are still edible, but you may not like the thicker skin and more bitter flavor. [图片]Tips for Harvesting Lemon Cucumbers Harvesting the ripe cucumbers is easy. Snip the stem just above the fruit using a clean knife or scissors. It's a good idea to check the plants each day, as the cucumbers grow quickly. If you wait more than a day to check, you may discover several of them are overly ripe. Lemon cucumbers don't last long when harvested, so pick only what you can eat soon. At room temperature, they usually last a day or two until shriveling starts. They tend to last longer at room temperature than they do in the refrigerator, so it's better to leave them on the counter than to store them in the fridge. Pickling the lemon cucumbers is a way to make them last longer.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Eggplants are a warm-weather crop that cannot be planted in the garden until your region's last frost date has passed in spring. Eggplants require 100 to 120 days to reach maturity from seed, but choosing a faster-maturing variety and establishing optimal growing conditions can bring fresh, ripe eggplants more quickly from your garden to your table. Growing From Seed Because eggplants require a relatively long time to mature and will not thrive in cool weather, if you plan to grow your eggplants from seed, you will need to begin them indoors, about eight to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your region. Seeds need warm soil to germinate and for the seedlings to grow quickly. The ideal soil temperature for germination is between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, so be sure to keep your seedlings in a warm location in your home or use a heating mat to warm the soil. Growing From Transplants Move your transplants into the garden only after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm. Eggplants grow optimally during daytime temperatures of 70 to 85 degrees F and can be severely damaged by even a light frost. Cool temperatures can slow growth significantly, so for the best and fastest harvest, keep your transplants indoors until the weather has warmed. If your plants begin to outgrow their containers, it is preferable to repot them in larger containers rather than move them outside too soon. If purchasing transplants from a garden center, do not purchase your plants until the final frost date has passed. Choose plants with dense, compact growth. Avoid the temptation of speeding up production by purchasing plants that already have blossoms: Blossoms on seedlings may actually slow growth after transplanting and lead to fewer eggplants at harvest. [图片]Varieties and Time to Maturity Different cultivars of eggplant can show considerable variation in the time it takes them to reach maturity, and if you want an early harvest, use care in selecting a variety. Time until harvest is usually measured from when the eggplant is transplanted into the garden, until the first fruits become ripe. Some seed packets will list the time until harvest by calculating when the seed was planted. Matures in 50 to 55 days: Easter Egg, Millionaire Matures in 60 to 64 days: Calliope, Dusky, Epic, Tango Matures in 65 to 72 days: Black Bell, Black Magic, Casper, Fairy Tale, Ichiban, Little Fingers, Nadia, Orient Charm, Slim Jim, Snowy Matures in 73 to 80 days: Black Beauty, Burpee Hybrid, Classic, Ghostbuster, Rosa Bianca, Santana Optimal Growing Conditions Given warm soil to grow in, eggplants are relatively adaptable to a range of garden conditions, but optimal conditions will improve plant growth and yields. Sunlight: Eggplants require full sun. Soil: Eggplants grow best in a well-drained soil that is relatively high in organic matter. Water: Once established, eggplants can tolerate dry conditions. Eggplants require at least 1 inch of water per week, especially once fruits begin to grow. Absent adequate rainfall, provide a single watering each week, moistening the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Fertilizer: At planting time, apply 1 1/4 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Broadcast the fertilizer and work it into the surface of the soil prior to planting your eggplants. When the first fruits are the size of a quarter, use 3 ounces of calcium nitrate fertilizer per 10 feet of row to sidedress your plants, applying fertilizer to the soil surface under the leaves. Sidedress eggplants again two weeks later, using the same amount of calcium nitrate. Growing Eggplants in Cooler Climates If you live in a cooler region with a shorter growing season, growing eggplants is more challenging. Covering the soil around your plants with black plastic mulch helps to raise the soil temperature and promotes rapid growth. If a late frost strikes, cover your eggplants with hot caps or row covers to prevent damage. Hot caps are individual plant coverings made of paper or plastic that trap the warmth from the sun and speed up growth in cold climates. Row covers are made of light fabric and can raise the daytime temperature underneath the cover by as much as 10 degrees F, insulate the plants at night and protect plants from frost and wind. Covers are spread across an entire row of plants; secure them in the ground at the sides for maximum effectiveness. [图片]As fall approaches, begin pinching off new blossoms two to four weeks before the first expected frost date. This will speed up the ripening of existing fruit so that you can enjoy one final harvest before the frost.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Harvesting Buttercrunch lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Buttercrunch') -- a variety of Bibb lettuce -- is as simple as cutting away select leaves or even the entire head. It's a simple process, but avoid harvesting too late or you may get bitter or tough leaves. [图片]When to Harvest Buttercrunch The entire head of Buttercrunch lettuce will be mature at between 55 and 70 days after planting seeds, but you can typically start harvesting leaves when the plant is just 21 days old. While it's often grown as an annual, lettuce is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 9 and prefers cooler weather. Gardeners typically plant seeds both in the early spring as well as the fall, offering a harvest through much of the growing season. Harvesting Leaves When your Buttercrunch plant has formed a few leaves, you can start harvesting the baby leaves, washing them and adding them to salads or sandwiches. Cut away a few of the outer leaves of the plant and leave the inner leaves -- which are typically smaller -- to continue to grow. Do this right before you want to eat the baby leaves, as loose-leaf lettuces, including Buttercrunch, can wilt quickly. Past Its Prime As you continue to harvest and eat the outer leaves of your Buttercrunch lettuce, you'll probably notice if the leaves begin to taste bitter or if they begin to get tough. At that point, it's a few days past the ideal harvesting time for leaves or the entire head. Likewise, if your Buttercrunch lettuce is bolting -- sending up a long shoot from the center -- you've waited too long to harvest the entire head. Bibb varieties tend to get bitter in high temperatures. You can still harvest it and eat it, but the lettuce may not taste as tender and delicious as earlier harvests. [图片]Harvesting Mature Heads When nearing maturity, Buttercrunch lettuce will form a loose "rosette" or "head," and the leaves may turn slightly reddish. Plan to harvest the entire head at between 55 and 70 days after planting -- or when the leaves are full and still tender. Harvest the entire mature head by cutting the plant at its base. Leave the base in the ground, however, since it may develop more leaves that you can continue to eat.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
火鹤花具有鲜艳夺目的特色,许多欧美人士把它视为“热烈、豪放”的象征,普遍采用西方插花的气派,用低浅的瓶Int集丛插养,周围再衬陪白色或紫色的小花,使厅堂显得异常瑰丽和华贵。此外,当新店开张或婚礼喜庆时,人们还挑选它砌作花篮,以增添欢乐的气氛。檀长花道的日本人对火鹤花也非常好感,她们在运用“天、地、人”的插花方式时往往把火鹤花插在“天”的位置,以显示它的英姿,并且冠以“大红团扇”的美誉。 [图片]火鹤花的基本信息: 火鹤花又名红掌、花烛、安祖花。属天南星科花烛属多年生草本。有佛焰花序,叶形苞片,常见的苞片颜色有红、粉红、白等,有其花落时也可观叶。可用播种、分株等法繁殖。粉掌较红掌难以培养。原产于南美洲的热带雨林地区。它的特性是喜暖畏寒、喜湿怕旱,喜阴忌晒。 火鹤花是多年生附生常绿草本植物,叶革质丛生,长圆披针形,先端尖,基部圆形。根肉质,节间短;叶常绿,革质,长椭圆状心脏形。佛焰苞直立开展,肉穗花序无柄,圆柱形,先端黄色,下部白色,花两性,小浆果内有种子2-4粒,粉红色,密集于肉穗花序上。花期2月-7月,如温湿度适宜则可常年开花。 [图片]火鹤花的养殖方法: 1、土壤:火鹤花培养土以富含腐殖质、疏松而排水良好的壤土最好。宜用2份腐叶、土或泥炭土、l份珍珠岩或粗沙配成培养土,或用腐叶土(或泥炭土l份、园土l份、苔藓)和木炭l份再加少量过磷酸钙或骨粉配成培养土。 2、浇水:火鹤花喜温润,故每天需向叶面喷雾。保持湿度,有利于叶片生长。排水不良或盆土过湿易烂根,生长旺期注意保持盆土有充足的水分。浇水宜干湿相间,一次浇水后待盆土表面见干再浇下一次水。喜偏酸的水,可以pH4~4.5的偏酸水或用雨水浇灌。 3、阳光:火鹤花喜半阴、怕强光,故夏季宜放置室内北面窗口养护,春、秋季节放在南面窗口附近,冬季放朝南窗台上,使其接受较充足的光照,这样会生长茁壮、叶绿花繁。如能在开花后移至室外有遮阴处培养一段时间,则长势更好。 4、温度:火鹤花生长的适宜温度为20℃-25℃,它所能忍耐的最高温是32℃,超过32℃生长开始缓慢。可忍耐的最低温度是15℃,在15℃以下会发生冻害叶片变黑或变黄。 5、施肥:火鹤花在4至10月为生长期,每半月施肥1次,5-9月为生长旺盛期,每周施追肥一次,现蕾后开花前更不能缺肥。追肥以腐熟有机质液肥为主,并配合施用磷、钾肥或复合肥。 6、虫害:火鹤花常见炭疽病、叶斑病和花序腐烂病等危害,用波尔多液或65%代森锌可湿性粉剂500倍液喷洒。虫害有介壳虫和红蜘蛛,可用50%马拉松乳油1500倍液喷杀。 火鹤花花色艳丽,花序螺旋状卷曲,风姿楚楚给人一种明快热烈的感受,深受人们的喜爱,很多人都会选择摆放在家居客厅等地方,火鹤花的养殖方法就介绍到这里,相信大家对火鹤花的养殖都有了一定了解。
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