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bewithtzy🕊
2018年04月09日
bewithtzy🕊
花友们家里有茶花的，都喜欢将修剪的枝条拿来扦插，但是，总是成活不高。今天，花先森跟你说下茶花扦插的2个关键。[图片]扦插当然要选好基质，花友们，茶花扦插，不用太复杂，就用沙子。将拿回来的沙子漂洗掉杂质和泥土，然后筛一下，去掉最粗的沙子就可以，接着用开水消毒沙子。 剪扦插枝条掌握一个大原则就可以：细枝条长一些，粗枝条短一些。一般长度在5-8厘米左右，太短发芽会比较慢。扦插的时候找一个粗细和扦插枝条差不多的树枝也可。茶花枝条扦插之前先用树枝插个孔，再把茶花枝条插下去。这样做主要是为了防止茶花枝条被沙子刮破皮。 [图片]关键来了，第一个关键就是：覆盖薄膜。剪取适当长度的铁线两节，弄弯成型，插入花盆边沿，可以直接插到底部。两节铁线交叉成十字架。然后用透明塑料袋套上去，花盆外面用绳子绑一下。 然后放在太阳可以适当晒得到的地方，但是不能全日照。屋顶有遮阳网的地方也可以。30℃左右的环境没什么问题。接下来就是等待生根了。不用去管它，也不用再浇水。[图片]第二个关键：炼苗。将扦插的茶花，拔一棵检查看看，如果已经生根就要去掉塑料袋和铁线。这时要搬到太阳不会直接晒到的地方，然后浇透水。炼苗就是让苗适应环境，让它自然生长。扦插苗的根系刚长出来的都是毛细根，肉质根系，需要一个月左右的时间使它木质化，以适应自然环境。
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bewithtzy🕊
2018年04月09日
bewithtzy🕊
栀子花就是一种热带灌木开花，在偏南地区常年温度在5度以上的地方就可以地栽养护，冬季有霜冻的地方就只能盆栽养护了。 1、栽种的时间选择 春秋是栽种栀子花的最佳时机，夏季过于炎热，盆栽的要适当遮阴，不能让强光照射，冬季过于寒冷，也是不太适宜栽种，春秋才是最适宜。 栽种栀子花之后就不能频繁移栽了，不然非常影响恢复生长。[图片]2、土壤选择 栽种栀子花一定要用新的土壤，准备肥沃疏松和排水良好的微酸性土壤，为了土壤呈现微酸性，那么就要在土壤里添加堆肥土、腐熟的有机肥和泥炭土都要适当添加，河沙适当添加2等分左右，可以让土壤排水性更好。 当然不能等秋季变凉之后再栽种，因为温度降到15度以下的时候，栀子花就会停止生长了，所以一定要提前6周左右栽种。 土壤上面适当覆盖有机土，如果土壤都是用酸性土，而且还是在偏南地区，那么就可以覆盖适当的松针或树皮中和酸性。 3、施肥注意事项 栀子花的开花的时候花量都不会很多，但是会特别动人，艳丽，一般是春夏结开花，花期是比较长，花期后及时剪掉残花，还能重新开出新的花朵的。 另外需要注意就是给肥，盆栽的栀子花喜欢微酸性的肥料，而且需要土壤含铁元素较高，定期给硫酸亚铁溶液就很不错，但是秋季温度开始下降之后就不能施肥了，温度在15度以下开始停滞施肥。[图片]浇水施肥都要注意不要沾到叶子上，另外注意给予光照，即便是冬季，也要放在窗台上给予散射光，如果没有阳光，就要用灯光补足，每天保证有8小时以上，另外增加环境湿度，在花盆周围喷雾状水就行了。
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绿手指客服
2018年04月09日
绿手指客服
亲爱的花友们，首先绿手指君代表绿手指团队感谢大家伙儿热心参与“邀新礼征询”的投票！🙇🙇🙇 依从大家伙的建议，绿手指君经过好几轮的仔细甄选终于把大家伙儿的“邀新礼”准备好啦！🎁🎁🎁 （敲黑板……） 据说奖品很丰厚呢，而且都是响当当的实惠噢！据说还有传说的园艺工具中的“宾利”！🤩🤩🤩绿手指君可是费了好大劲儿才采购到的呢！ 邀新活动明天就正式开始啦！一定要来参加哈！100%有礼！参与就有奖品拿！一定要来噢！ 💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️💂🏻‍♀️列队等候大家到来！
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北风
2018年09月13日
0
这个软件有没有存储容量的限制？
Donnia
2018年04月10日
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期待了……
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
Watermelons are a warm-season crop prized for their sweet, juicy, bright pink fruit. Because watermelons need warm weather to both germinate and thrive, southern growers generally have more success with them. Likewise, because they require a long growing season of warm weather, getting your plants into the ground as early as possible will ensure a healthy crop. If you're a northern gardener or getting a late start, you can use techniques that will help you grow watermelons in less-than-ideal conditions. [图片]Time to Harvest Like most fruit and vegetable plants, watermelon varieties vary in the amount of time you need to allot between planting and harvest. Early varieties such as Sugar Baby and Golden Crown require between 70 to 75 days between germination and harvest. Most watermelons -- including the seedless varieties -- need 80 to 85 days to fully ripen before harvest. Check the seed packet or plant tag for information on harvest time. Frost Tolerance Watermelons are a tender crop, meaning that they cannot survive frosts. While you can use tools and techniques to give your plants some protection from the cold, watermelons grow best in warm weather, so you should anticipate harvesting them before the first frost. To determine the last possible date when you can plant watermelons in your area, you first need to determine the first frost date for your region. The National Climatic Data Center maintains this information, and you can also find it from a cooperative extension agent or experienced nursery employee. Subtract the number of days needed until harvest, adding a week if you plan to start the plants from seed. This date is the last possible date you can plant watermelons in your area, although ideally, you should have them in the ground well before then. Extending the Season If you got a later start planting your watermelons than you intended, plant transplants rather than seeds, if possible. Watermelons grown from transplants are ready to harvest two weeks before those grown from seed. If you find temperatures dropping before your melons are ready for harvest, you can use several techniques to keep both the soil and the air around them warm. Black plastic mulch spread between the rows raises the soil temperature. To protect plants from cool weather and early frosts, cover plants with floating row covers. These lightweight covers allow full penetration of light and water while raising temperatures a few degrees around the plants. [图片]Black plastic mulch raises soil temperatures to the minimum 60 degrees Fahrenheit that watermelons need. Gardeners in cool, northern climates have less room for error when planting watermelons. If you find yourself getting a late start because springtime conditions aren't warm enough for watermelons, you can jumpstart the melon season and better ensure a good harvest. Start seeds indoors four weeks before the last spring frost date in your area so that plants can go directly into the ground without waiting for germination. To warm the soil for your plants, use black plastic mulch but remove it or spray it white once summer temperatures heat up. Floating row covers can keep the occasional chilly spring day from damaging your plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
As a vegetable gardener, you're probably familiar with the good feeling most gardeners get from harvesting their own crops. It's disappointing, though, to see garden produce such as green peppers (Capsicum spp.) develop black areas and stop growing when they're only partially formed. Several problems can cause blackening of pepper fruits. So identifying the specific cause is an important first step in dealing with the problem and saving the remaining crop. Plant Diseases Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure. Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits. Fungal Problems Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants. The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation. [图片]Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop. Viral Infection An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it. Blossom End-Rot A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits. [图片]Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus. If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
The spicy flavor of a fresh radish is most pronounced immediately after harvest. Proper storage helps retain the flavor and quality of any radishes you can't use right away. Harvest radishes when the roots are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Smaller roots haven't developed their full flavor and larger roots become tough and woody. Prepare and store the radishes immediately after pulling so the roots don't begin to decline or lose their signature flavor. [图片]Step 1 Cut the tops off the radish with a sharp, clean knife. Leave 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the top of the bulb. Step 2 Place the radishes in a perforated plastic storage bag. A perforated bag allows air circulation while retaining moisture during storage. Store in an open plastic bag if you don't have perforated bags. Step 3 Store the bagged radishes in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Store the radishes for up to a month in the refrigerator. [图片]Step 4 Inspect the radishes once weekly. Use them immediately if they begin to discolor or develop soft spots.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is winter hardy and perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, but in most parts of the country it is grown as an annual garden vegetable. It is not tolerant of cold temperatures, and for good fruit development, it requires a long frost-free growing season. The plant is thought to have originated in India more than 1,500 years ago and to have come to North America with Spanish explorers sometime before the 19th century. Seedlings Eggplant seeds take one to two weeks to germinate after they're planted, and seedlings will be big and sturdy enough to transplant outdoors within six to 10 weeks after germination. Young plants are vulnerable to damage from frost and cold temperatures, so seedlings shouldn't be transplanted until the soil is warm, nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and all danger of frost has passed. [图片]Mature Plants Mature plants are relatively large with branching stems, and their large leaves are oval-shaped or lobed, with a hairy, sometimes spiny, texture. Most eggplant varieties grow to a height of between 2 and 4 feet and may need support from a stake or cage when they're laden with heavy fruit. Some varieties, however, are compact and remain less than 2 feet tall. In mid-summer, plants bloom with star-shaped purple flowers which occur either singly or in clusters of two blossoms. The optimal daytime temperature for the plant's growth is between 70 and 85 degrees F, and if temperatures are above 95 degrees F, flowers and fruit may not develop properly. Fruit Development The flowers develop into fruit that, depending on the cultivar, vary in size, color and shape. The varieties traditionally grown in the United States produce fruit that is oval or pear-shaped and up to approximately 9 inches long, with a thick purple-black skin and dense white inner flesh. Varieties known as Asian, Chinese or Japanese eggplant produce fruit that is more elongated and slender. The fruit of other cultivars may be white, green, light purple or striped. [图片]Eggplant fruit is ready for harvest when its skin is smooth and shiny and its flesh is firm. Fruit with dull or wrinkled skin or soft flesh is over-ripe; at this stage, the fruit's skin will be tough and its flavor likely bitter. Mature fruit is typically ready to harvest about 70 days after the plants have been set in the garden.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
The Walla Walla onion is a sweet white onion identified with the Pacific Northwest and the Walla Walla, Washington, area in particular. The onion is a bulb onion bred for use as a diced or sliced product rather than for use fresh as a green onion or as a small bulb for pickling. Onions are commonly harvested in the summer or early fall of the year. [图片]Harvest Signs Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper. Harvest Timing Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer. [图片]Trimming the Onion Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted. Storing the Onion Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
给友友们普及一下多肉的专业术语： 1、多肉植物(succulent plant ) 又称肉质植物、多浆植物，为茎、叶肉质，具有肥厚贮水组织的观赏植物。茎肉质多浆的如仙人掌科植物，叶肉质多浆的如龙舌兰科、景天科、大戟科等多肉植物。多肉植物的爱好者也喜欢简称其为“肉肉”。 2、科名(family)植物分类单位的学术用语，凡是花的形态结构接近的一个属或几个属，可以组成植物分类系统的一个科。如景天科由30个属组成。 3、属名(genus)植物分类单位的学术用语，每一个植物学名，必须由属名、种名和定名人组成。每一个属下可以包括一种至若干种。 4、种名(species)植物分类单位的学术用语，又叫学名，每一种植物只有一个学名。在属名之后，变种或栽培品种名之前。例如芦荟(Aloe vera var.chinensis)，其中Aloe为属名为种名var.chinensis为变种名。 5、变种(variety)物种与亚种之下的分类单位。如仙人掌科中的类栉球就是栉刺尤伯球的变种，狂刺金唬是金唬的变种等。 6、茎干状多肉植物(caudex succulent) 植物的肉质部分主要在茎的基部，形成膨大而形状不一的肉质块状体或球状体。如京舞妓、椭叶木棉、光堂等。 [图片]7、雌雄异株(heterothallism) 指单性花分别着生于不同植株上，由此，出现了雄株和雌株之分。 8、两性花(hermaphrodite flower)一朵花中，兼有雄蕊群和雌蕊群。大多数多肉植物为两性花，开花后都能正常结实。 9、单生(simple，solitary) 指植株茎干单独生长不产生分枝和不生子球。如仙人掌中的翁柱和金唬。 10、群生(clustering) 指许多密集的新枝或子球生长在一起。如仙人掌中的松霞，多肉植物中的茜之塔等。 11、休眠(dormancy)植物处于自然生长停顿状态，还会出现落叶或地上部死亡的现象。常发生在冬季和夏季。 12、夏型种(summer type) 生长期在夏季，而冬季呈休眠状态的多肉植物，称之夏型植物或冬眠型植物。主要是开花的时间在夏季。这里的夏季指肉肉在原产地的夏季气候，如果天气太热，肉肉依旧会休眠。 13、冬型种(winter type)生长期在冬季，而夏季呈休眠状态，称之冬型植物或夏眠型植物。这里的冬季是指肉肉在原产地的冬季气候，如果夭气太冷，肉肉依旧会休眠。 14、攀援茎(climbing stem) 依靠特殊结构攀援它物而向上生长的茎。如景天科中的极乐鸟，薯菠科中的龟甲龙等。 15、气生根(aerial roots) 由地上部茎所长出的根，在虹之玉、梅兔耳的成年植株上经常可见。 16、软质叶(soft leaf) 多肉植物中柔嫩多汁、很容易被折断或为病虫所害的有些种类的叶片。一般称其为软质叶系，如十二卷属中的玉露等。 17、硬质叶(thick leaf) 指多肉植物中一些叶片肥厚坚硬的种类。一般称其为硬质叶系，如十二卷属中的琉璃殿、条纹十二卷等。 18、莲座叶丛(rosette)指紧贴地面的短茎上，辐射状丛生多叶的生长形态，其叶片排列的方式形似莲花。如景天科的石莲花属、风车草属等。 19、叶齿(leaf-teeth) 常指多肉植物肥厚叶片边缘的肉质刺状物。常见于百合科芦荟属植物，如不夜城、不夜城锦、翡翠殿等。 20、叶刺(leaf thorn)由叶的一部分或全部转变成的刺状物，叶刺可以减少蒸腾并起到保护作用。如仙人掌科植物的刺就是叶刺。 21、窗(window) 许多多肉植物，如百合科的十二卷属，其叶面顶端有透明或半透明部分，称之为“窗”。其窗面的变化也是品种的分类依据。 22、吸芽(absorptive bud)又叫分孽(nie)，是植物地下茎的节上或地上茎的腋芽中产生的芽状体。如长生草、石莲花等母株旁生的小植株。 23、叶痕(leaf scar) 叶脱落后，在茎枝上所留下的叶柄断痕。叶痕的排列顺序与大小，可作为鉴别植物种类的依据。 24、杂交(hybridization) 使两种植物杂交以便获得具两种亲本特性的新品种的行为。例如白牡丹为石莲花属与风车属的属间杂交品种。 25、嫁接(grafting)把母株的茎、子球接到砧木上使其结合成为新植株的一种繁殖方法。用于嫁接的茎、统突或子球叫做接穗，承受接穗的植物称为砧木。 26、砧木(stock)又称台木。植物嫁接繁殖时与接穗相接的植株。在仙人掌植物的嫁接中，普遍使用量天尺做砧木，多肉植物则常采用霸王鞭做砧木。 27、叶插(leaf cutting) 将多肉植物叶片的一部分插于基质中，促使生根，长成新的植株的一种繁殖方法。 28、更新(renewal) 通过修剪手段，包括重剪和剪除老枝等办法，促使新的枝条生长。 29、晾根(air-cured root)当土壤过湿和根部病害，导致多肉植物发生烂根，出现黄叶时，可将植株从土壤中取出，把根部暴露在空气中晾干，利于消灭病菌和恢复生机。 30、锦(variegation)又称彩斑、斑锦。茎部全体或局部丧失了制造叶绿素的功能，而其他色素相对活跃，使茎部表面出现红、黄、白、紫、橙等色或色斑。在品名写法上常用f.vataegata或‘Variegata/“。 31、缀化(fasciation) 或称冠，是一种不规则的芽变现象。这种畸形的缀化，是某些分生组织细胞反常性发育的结果，其学名的写法上常用f.crmata或/“Cristata/“。 [图片]32、冠状(cristate)叶部、茎部或花朵呈鸡冠状生长，又称鸡冠状，如绯牡丹缀化。 33、芽变(bud mutation) 一个植物营养体出现的与原植物不同、可以遗传并可用无性繁殖的方法保存下来的性状。如多肉植物中的许多斑锦和扁化品种。 34、突变(mutation)指植物的遗传组织发生突然改变的现象，使植株出现新的特征，且这种新的特征可遗传于子代中。多肉植物还可以通过嫁接方法把新的特征固定下来。 35、黄化(yellowing)指植物由于缺乏光照，造成叶片褪色变黄和茎部过度生长的现象。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
夏天即将到来，蚊香又成了最枪手的商品，无论是电蚊香还是燃烧的蚊香都是供不应求。但近几年很多人都听说过“猪笼草”也有驱蚊的效果，它可以吸引蚊子靠近，然后用自身的弱酸性液体腐蚀它。在加上此植物的外貌也比较特殊，所以深受众人喜爱。 [图片]昨日，记者在位于市中心几个路口的盆栽店看到，不少消费者已经开始选购“猪笼草”等具有灭蚊作用的绿色植物了。一些盆栽植物在被冠以“杀灭蚊虫，吸收异味”的牌子后，受到不少消费者的喜爱。 那么，利用“猪笼草”驱蚊到底有效果吗？为此，记者采访了中国科学院植物研究所花卉科普办公室园艺专家卢先生，所卢先生介绍，猪笼草原产地是热带地区，对生长环境条件要求十分苛刻，作为观赏植物在高温高湿的室内可以生长，但在家居环境很难生存。“吸食蚊虫完全是商家强加给它的特效，事实上只有非常少的机会能吸引到虫子，根本达不到驱蚊的效果。” [图片]关于夏季到底哪些植物能驱蚊，记者咨询了花艺师裴小姐。其实，一般来说凡是具有气味的植物都有驱蚊作用。市场上常见的驱蚊植物有绿叶白花驱蚊草、翠叶黄花驱蚊草、紫叶红花驱蚊草、怡香金菊驱蚊草、夜来香、薰衣草、天竺葵、薄荷、七里香等。但其中夜来香已经被列为50种室内有害植物。因为夜来香花的香味浓烈，对于患有高血压和心脏病的人，长期闻这种浓郁的香味可能会发生呼吸道难受的情况，所以夜来香在盛花期间不要放在室内。 除了灭蚊绿色植物，其实还有一个灭蚊方式也比较环保。灭蚊灯，利用蚊子对特殊波长的敏感性，通过光催化二氧化碳来吸引蚊子，利用外围的高压电网瞬间将蚊虫杀死。无烟无味而且能耗低，是最环保的灭蚊工具。 不过，使用灭蚊灯时，最好关掉室内其他光源，将其悬挂于距离地面大约1米的高度，这是蚊子经常活动的范围。灭蚊灯应常常改变放置地点，隐蔽的角落、桌下为最佳，也可以在灭蚊灯的集虫盒里加点水和醋，利用蚊子喜欢酸性物质的特性，达到最佳捕蚊效果。
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