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Miss Chen
2018年05月16日
Miss Chen
夏季已经来临，黑腐则是这个季节发病率最高的病害之一，一个疏忽，多肉的小命便永远的留在了夏季。今天则主要为大家详细介绍一下黑腐。 黑腐病症状 黑腐病的症状多表现在叶片上：病发初期可能会出现黑斑，叶表面部分黄变、化水，叶背面出现灰白色斑；随后叶两面生成白色霉层，化水叶片变黑；最后，会导致叶片卷曲干枯，植物根茎处腐烂，整株多肉枯萎，无法挽救。
黑腐病发原因 肉肉黑腐的直接原因是由真菌和虫害（尤其是根粉介壳虫）引发的。主要是由于多肉生长的环境不适造成的，比如长时间不通风，日照不充分等，其中浇水量过大或淋雨过多导致土壤不透气生成真菌是最常见的原因。 多肉叶片化水、发黑救治说明 多肉的黑腐病像癌症一样：病发初期给药，中期截肢，晚期放弃治疗……从传播速度来说，它又像瘟疫，以发病多肉为传染源，一天之内就会大片腐烂，传播非常快，这也和罪魁祸首根粉介壳虫的活动特征有关。读过嗨绿往期文章的花友们应该记得，根粉介壳虫害的除虫过程比较繁琐，它传播性广，破坏性强，是多肉虫害中最难处理的一种。　对于具体救治措施，如果早期发现多肉黑腐，可以采用砍头处理，即切掉腐烂的部分，切到一点都不剩，直到植物茎部显露出正常的颜色，然后进行晾根处理。砍下来的头可以枝插，掰下来的叶子可以叶插；砍头完后，在多肉上涂抹杀菌水消毒，在扦插前先给培养土消毒，再扦插，最好干土发根。　　　
多肉黑腐预防措施——砍头 对于刚入坑的新手来说，多肉植物要是染上黑腐病，基本没治了，像人一样，植物的真菌感染也是很难根治的，而且一旦病发，破坏属性极强。所以主要还得靠预防，做好基础养护，从根源上斩断黑腐病感染。尤其要控制好多肉浇水，多肉原产于沙漠环境，所以家养的多肉不需要太多浇水了。 在栽培肉肉前，最好用杀菌水给多肉浸根后再种下。平常也要多观察肉肉的生长状态，因为黑腐病前期症状不明显，叶片一半发黑一半正常的时候千万不能疏忽怠慢，一旦过了可治疗期，真菌和虫害会吞噬周围大片多肉。另外，入夏前最好给自己的肉肉喷一次杀菌药，做好充分的防黑腐措施。"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月16日
Miss Chen
多肉植物烂根、黑腐都是每个肉友都遇到过的事情，若能在第一时间处理好，其实并不是什么大事，但若延误了最佳的处理时机，那么可能会有点难度。黑腐及烂根有时能从表现看出来，有时表面没有任何变化，其根部已经开始腐烂。今天给大家分享一下多肉不同程度黑腐及腐烂的处理方法。
多肉植物烂根 1、多肉轻度烂根 轻度烂根指的是意识到水浇多了，但是还没有造成严重的后果。这种情况下要抬高多肉植物的花盆，也让下面小孔处悬空，让多余的水分流出来，一定要放在通风处。家里通风不好的话直接用小风扇可以对着植物吹，但是时间不要过长。 2 多肉重度烂根 a、拿出多肉植物，用清水把根部清洗干净，然后切除腐烂的根系。 b、伤口部分用多菌灵涂抹，避免感染，晾晒2天。 c、换上新的花盆以及营养土。 d、浇透水，把多肉放到光线弱的地方，不要强光暴晒，一定要通风良好，浇水一定要见干见湿，大概一周左右就能生根。　
多肉植物黑腐 1、黑腐形成原因 a、其一是上面介绍过的，多肉的叶片化水之后，病菌侵入，而后黑腐。 b、另一个原因是多肉底部的枯枝烂叶没有清理干净，阴暗潮湿的环境导致细菌滋生，进而黑腐。 c、夏季是高发期，尤其是刚刚浇水之后就晒太阳，温度升高，盆土潮湿，非常适合各种病菌真菌的生长，如果通风再不好，那简直是黑腐妥妥的。 2、如何预防多肉黑腐 a、注意盆土疏松透气，老生常谈的问题了，可以在多肉配土的时候加点儿珍珠岩啊，蛭石啊等颗粒进去。 b、多消毒，无论你是换盆啊，还是扦插啊，还是砍头啊，都一定要记得消毒，消毒，消毒！必要的时候甚至可以直接将多菌灵兑水灌根。 3、多肉黑腐怎么解决 a、多肉的黑腐病通常是从多肉的杆子开始的，从叶子的生长点蔓延到多肉的叶子上。所以一旦发现了多肉有黑腐的迹象，一定要砍头！把杆子上所有黑腐的地方全部切除。 b、消毒，把砍下来的多肉一定要尽快消毒，可以放在多菌灵溶液中浸泡几分钟，彻彻底底得消毒。 c、更换新的土壤和花盆，土壤配比为泥炭土60% + 沙子20% + 颗粒20%，颗粒可以是珍珠岩、火山岩、蜂窝煤、陶粒、石子等。 d、先把土壤浇透水，之后放在散射光，通风良好的地方养护即可，1周之后即可生根，生根后可放到光照良好的地方。以后浇水要傍晚的时候浇。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月16日
Miss Chen
黄金万年草自带光环，既金黄闪闪，又可繁衍万年。近看独出一支似莲花，远看繁茂一片绿意盎然。特好养，随便放到半个牛奶盒里或是漂亮的小花盆里，它都能长得恣意盎然。但在好养的植物都会出现叶子蔫的现象，此时要搞明白什么原因，在对症下药。 原因一：刚换盆 从市面上刚买回黄金万年草，栽种后边缘的叶片会有不同程度的变黄、萎蔫，这是正常情况，1~2周之后会慢慢恢复，若这部分叶子恢复金黄色就可以继续养护，若没有恢复，可以将周围枯萎叶子剪掉，只要养护得当，很快就会长起来。 原因二：生长过密 黄金万年草生长很迅速，需要较大的生长空间，一旦生长过密，叶片已经垂到花盆的外部，虽然看上去很漂亮，但下部的叶子通风透光性都比较差，湿气较大，长期下去茎叶会渐渐发黑腐烂，更严重的会诱发病虫害，造成整株死亡。
原因三：环境通风较差 养护环境的空气流通状况很重要，若环境闷热，很容易造成茎叶腐烂，尤其是初夏，盆土本就潮湿，阳光充足水分蒸发上升，若环境不透气，黄金万年草靠近地面的部分很容易就腐烂。 腐烂和枯萎不同，出现腐烂一定不要放任不管，否则很容易引起细菌性病害，溃烂蔓延到整盆。将腐烂的部分连枝剪掉，适当的遮阴控水，坚强通风，天气暖和就放在室外养护 原因四：阳光不充足 黄金万年草在阳光不充足的条件下，很容易徒长，原本的护盆草，变成垂盆草，并且长长叶片会逐渐的萎蔫，其实，这些现象都是可以避免和补救的。 养护中保证充足的阳光，一旦发现徒长萎蔫，立即将枝条剪下，重新栽种，剩下的母株会迅速恢复长势。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月16日
Miss Chen
许多人第一次看见碧光环这个多肉植物就被彻底萌翻。尤其是小时候，圆圆的脑袋，两只长耳朵长出来，简直就像是一群兔斯基。夏天种下一只小兔子，到了秋天收获一花盆的小兔子！但在日常养护中碧光环会出现烂根的情况，但是导致它烂根的情况大多数都来自以下两种情况： 1、盆土排水性能不好 虽然碧光环根系发达，也不怕水，建议用较深的盆养殖。但是要求是土壤要用透气性良好的，花盆也是同样的要求。 盆土排水性能不好，但是生长期的碧光环又需要大量的水分，就容易导致浇水之后水分长期浸渍根系，根系容易腐烂。 2、病虫害导致烂根 碧光环的烂根有可能是病虫害导致的。根腐病，黑腐病，根结线虫等等。
碧光环烂根怎么办 1、碧光环根系发达，跟发出来的芽形成鲜明对比，一个大块头，一个小巧玲珑。 2、烂根之后先将植株拔出，清洗干净根系，然后切掉腐烂部位，晾晒两到三天，切口愈合之后，再移栽到土壤湿度适宜的花盆中。 3、如果是病虫害导致的根系腐烂，剪除腐烂部位之后要及时喷洒药剂，可用多菌灵灌根。
碧光环浇水经验分享： 当春天来临，温度达到5度左右碧光环会就慢慢的苏醒。碧光环不怕水，这个时候可以浇透水，土壤透气，干透浇透就可以的。碧光环的根系很发达，建议花友用深点盆养。由于碧光环需要很多的水分，如果干的太厉害了，两个脑袋就会垂下来，给水就会恢复，3月份是它们生长的好季节，生长的非常快。生长旺季碧光环要避免强烈的直射光，因为碧光环对温度比较敏感，温度太高了就会慢慢的黄了，并且要休眠的样子，注意半日照就可以，温度超过35度就会整个植株慢慢枯萎，进入休眠。休眠期碧光环不用水分，大家这个时候千万不要认为它们是死了，植株会剩下黄豆大点，枯枯的，放在通风阴凉的地方就可以安全度夏了。到了9月底温度下降，就可以再次恢复生长，碧光环可以给大水的，避免强光，希望刚刚接触的花友注意一下，0度才会休眠，断水一直到温度回升。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
The best time for cutting down asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is when the plant becomes dormant in fall. Asparagus produces new shoots in spring, which you can harvest as asparagus spears. These shoots develop and mature over the growing season, forming many-branched, feathery stems. The plant's top growth dies in fall, though the roots remain alive, ready to sprout again in spring. Growing 3 to 5 feet tall, asparagus grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. Why Cut Asparagus
Asparagus usually dies down naturally in fall, but cutting the asparagus stems at this time has its benefits. Rust and other diseases that affect asparagus overwinter on plant debris. Cutting down and removing asparagus stems when the plants are dormant helps prevent diseases from infecting new shoots the following year. Old asparagus varieties include female, berry-producing plants, and some new, male varieties also sometimes include a few female plants. Berries that are left on an asparagus bed create problems with asparagus seedlings the following year. Removing dead asparagus foliage also keeps the bed neat and tidy, and makes room for new shoots in spring. When to Cut
Cut asparagus down after the stems have turned yellow, but before the berries fall. Asparagus stems often turn yellow after the first frost. When stems turn yellow and wither, they're no longer providing nutrients for the roots, and they can be removed. Cut down asparagus stems when they're completely yellow. Don't wait any longer, because berries on the plants will fall. In warm climates, asparagus sometimes doesn't turn yellow but continues growing in late fall and winter. If the asparagus shoots don't turn yellow, stop watering the plants. How to Cut
Cut asparagus stems with pruning shears. Starting at one end of the asparagus bed, hold an asparagus stem in one hand, and prune it 2 inches above the soil surface. Continue in the same way over the whole bed. When you've finished, wipe the pruning shear blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Sterilizing pruning shears helps prevent diseases from spreading. You can put dead asparagus foliage on the compost pile. After Care
After cutting asparagus stems, spread a thick organic mulch. Mulches add organic matter and nutrients to the soil and help control weeds, and also provide some protection from severe freezes. Removing the mulch in stages in spring can extend the asparagus harvesting season. Spread a layer of leaves, compost, manure or other organic matter 4 to 6 inches deep over the asparagus bed. For a long harvest period, remove the mulch from one-half the bed in spring. The asparagus shoots will appear on the bare half of the bed first. When they appear, remove the mulch from the other one-half of the bed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
A summer squash, the zucchini grows well in most summer vegetable gardens. You only need one zucchini plant to produce fruit, as the plants grow separate male and female flowers on the same plant, which are usually pollinated by bees and other insects. You can also pollinate the flowers by hand if you are growing them in a greenhouse or other area where insect pollination isn't possible. Telling the difference between the male and female blooms ensures you pollinate the zucchini correctly for the maximum amount of fruit at harvest time.
Step 1 Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems. Step 2 Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3 Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Because Pennsylvania includes three U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones and their subzones, the times for planting vegetables vary considerably from Philadelphia, which is in USDA zone 7a in the southeastern part of the state, to Bradford in USDA zone 5a in the northwest. The state's coldest areas, in USDA zone 5a, are mostly concentrated in Warren and McKean counties. Because the requirements for gardening in USDA zone 5a differ from those in USDA zone 5b regions, the two subzones are listed separately. Always adapt seedlings started indoors gradually to the cooler and brighter conditions outdoors before you transplant them into a garden.
Hardy Vegetables Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a. Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants. Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March. USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April. USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April. USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May. Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil. USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April. USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May. USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May. USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June. Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays). If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season. USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April. USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May. USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May. USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June. Fall Vegetables Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool. USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August. USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August. USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Across the month of March, gardeners in Tennessee prepare their soil beds in anticipation of planting potatoes. Rather than growing these vegetables from seeds, gardeners purchase small, healthy tubers called seed potatoes, which are certified disease-free. Since seed potatoes are planted in the ground and initially protected from frost, planting take place roughly two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date across the Volunteer State. The ideal garden site for potatoes is one with fertile, organic-rich soil that is moist and drains well. Full sun exposure ensures the best growth and production of tubers for harvest.
Step 1 Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March. Step 2 Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation. Step 3 Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured. Step 4 Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5 Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores. Step 6 Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart. Step 7 Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Fiddlehead ferns can refer to a number of young, unfurled ferns, but ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris) are the variety of ferns harvested and eaten. As part of a landscape design, however, ostrich ferns, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 7, make for a pleasing green backdrop for perennial plants. Before picking fiddleheads in the wild, ensure you have permission to do so -- that the ferns are not on private property and are not growing in a protected area, such as a nature preserve. Eat fiddleheads only in small quantities.
Identifying Fiddlehead Ferns Although other ferns such as the lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina; USDA zones 3 through 9) and the bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum; USDA zones 3 through 11) can also be harvested and eaten, only ostrich ferns produce true fiddlehead ferns. Identify young ostrich ferns shoots by the U-shaped groove on the interior of the stalk and the papery brown covering at the curled portion of the fern. Ostrich ferns grow at least 6 feet high, while lady ferns and bracken ferns reach no more than 1 to 3 feet high. Ostrich ferns have five to nine fronds that grow in a rosette shape, creating a funnel. Finding and Growing Fiddleheads Although you can grow ostrich ferns for fiddleheads, some people forage for these ferns, going out in early spring to look for the young, green shoots. Ostrich ferns grow in groups of three to 12 fronds -- or fiddleheads when young -- and thrive in shady, cool environments. Look for them from late April to early June along streams, brooks and rivers. Home-grown ostrich ferns ensure an easy-to-find harvest each spring. Situate the ferns in an area that receives dappled sunlight and is consistently damp and moist. Ostrich ferns grow best in protected areas that do not receive much wind and have rich, moist soil. Start ferns in containers and space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Before planting, mix in compost, in a ratio of roughly 1 to 3 parts compost to soil, to a depth of 2 feet. Do not fertilize ferns, and water regularly, several times a week, to ensure the soil stays consistently damp when touched.
Harvesting Fiddleheads Harvest fiddleheads for eating when they are still very young -- when they grow to 1 to 2 inches above ground. As they mature, the ferns become bitter and fully mature ostrich ferns -- unfurled -- should not be eaten. Harvest ostrich ferns until they grow more than 20 inches high, although the bigger they are, the more pronounced their taste becomes. Cut the ferns at the base of the plant, near where the U-shaped stalk hits the ground. Sterilize cutting tools -- knife or scissors -- beforehand, and wear gloves if necessary to protect fingers from accidental scrapes. The stems of younger ferns can sometimes also be broken by hand. Harvest no more than two-thirds of the fiddleheads from a plant. Cleaning and Storage Rinse fiddleheads in cold water to clean them, spraying and soaking to loosen the papery brown coating. Gently rub the fiddleheads to remove the papery coating. Rinse off any dirt caught in the U-shaped groove. Store fiddleheads in the refrigerator, in a plastic bag, for up to two weeks after harvest. You may also blanche and freeze cleaned fiddleheads for future use. All fiddleheads must be steamed or boiled before eating. For sauteed or stir-fried fiddleheads, steam or boil the ferns first.
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
鹿角海棠植株常呈匍匐丛生状，在欧美地区经常被用于盆栽或吊盆栽。绿色肥厚的叶片向外延伸，有很好的垂吊感。与其他品种的多肉植物合栽，也能起到很到的点缀作用。花季开花时，金黄鲜艳的花朵为盆栽增色不少，将它悬挂在室内，更显生机盎然，凸显出节日气氛。 因其养护简便，繁殖容易，习性强健，也被用于布置多肉植物主题园，是优良的观赏花卉品种。在日常养护中很多肉友都遇到过鹿角海棠叶子发皱的情况，这是什么原因造成的呢？
鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因：少水 鹿角海棠叶子发皱最常见的问题就是叶片失水，因为缺水，小鹿的叶子水分供应不足，造成叶子缺水，从而出现皱皮的现象，严重的叶子会出现裂痕。若出现此种现象，应增加浇水量，适当的喷雾，增加空气湿度，小鹿慢慢就会恢复的。 鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因：水多 叶子发皱还可能是根部出现了问题。多肉大部分是热带植物，耐干旱，怕水渍，所以在养护过程中，叫谁呢过多，根部生长受阻，逐渐腐烂，从而对叶子的供水造成影响。出现此种情况，建议及时将小鹿脱盆，将烂掉的根系剪掉，重新栽种，先不要浇水，等土干了之后，浇一点水，等根慢慢长出来。
鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因：阳光过强 小鹿喜欢阳光充足的环境，但难以忍受夏季的强光，夏季若长时间放在阳光下暴晒，因为蒸腾作用过强，叶子会缺水，从而造成列横或者皱皮。所以，夏季要将小鹿放在半阴处养护，适当的补充阳光，尤其夏季正午要遮阴。
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