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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Japanese silver grass is an ornamental clumping grass in the genus Miscanthus. There are many cultivars of the attractive plant with most suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9. The Japanese silver grass plant usually produces a feathery whitish gray inflorescence that is the source of the name. There are also pink and reddish flowering varieties.[图片]Ornamental Japanese Silver Grass Uses Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is useful as a living hedge or border when planted 3 to 4 feet apart. It also makes an interesting specimen plant alone as the center of a bed or in a large pot as an accent. The ornamental Japanese silver grass group contains numerous cultivars. Autumn Light and November Sunset are two varieties that may be grown in USDA zone 4. Some other interesting varieties are: Adagio Blondo Dixieland Flamingo Kaskade Little Nicky Malepartus Puenktchen Variegatus The latter has foliage striped with a silver white color.[图片]Growing Japanese Silver Grass The plant can get 3 to 6 feet in height and has thick, rather coarse foliage. The blades are long and arcing and stay close in a tight clump. In fall it produces reddish color and the inflorescence persists, creating an attractive seasonal display. Growing Japanese silver grass requires no special soil type but it does need a fertile, moist planting area. Japanese silver grass can become invasive in the southern states. The inflorescence becomes fluffy seeds that spread on the wind when they are ripe. The seeds readily sprout and produce numerous seedlings. To avoid this tendency, it is best to remove the flower before it seeds in warmer zones. This ornamental grass performs best when positioned in full sun. While it needs moist soil, it will tolerate drought periods after it is fully established. The grass should be cut back in spring before new shoots appear. Japanese silver grass plant is a perennial but the leaves will become brown and dry in winter as it assumes a dormant habit. Japanese silver grass care is easy, as the plant has no special requirements and few pests or disease issues.[图片]Propagation of Japanese Silver Grass Plant Ornamental Japanese silver grass will spread to 4 feet in diameter. When the center begins to die out and the plant is no longer looking full and healthy, it is time to divide it. Division takes place in spring. Simply dig up the plant and use a root saw or sharp spade or knife to cut the plant into sections. Each section needs a good clump of roots and foliage. Replant the sections to create new plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.[图片]Japanese Forest Grass Plant Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden: All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden. ‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades. ‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.[图片]Growing Forest Grass Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.[图片]Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.[图片]Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.[图片]What is an Interrupted Fern? Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.[图片]Interrupted Fern Care This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.[图片]Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart: Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown. Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns. Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems. Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves. For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.[图片]
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hosta plants are popular perennials grown for their foliage. Generally, these carefree plants, which thrive in shady locations, suffer from few problems. However, occasional problems with hostas do occur, so knowing what to look for is important in order to treat or prevent further hostas problems.[图片]Common Hosta Pests What causes holes in hosta leaves? This is one of the most common questions associated with hosta plants. Essentially when bugs are eating hostas, slugs or snails are usually to blame. These nighttime foragers are probably considered the most common of hosta pests, eating small holes in the leaves. Silvery-colored slime or snail trail throughout the garden area is a good indication of their presence. Control of these slugs may include the use of beer traps, which they crawl into and die. Another insect pest that chews hosta leaves is the adult black vine weevil. Signs of this insect are irregular notches along the outer edges of leaves. Their larvae also pose a problem by feeding on the crown and roots of hosta plants, resulting in yellow, wilted foliage.[图片]Nematodes, which are microscopic roundworms, typically cause disease by infecting hosta plants much like fungi or bacteria. As with fungal infections, they thrive in moist conditions. Nematodes often feed within the leaves, producing brown areas between the veins, which result in an almost striped appearance. This generally occurs in late summer. Affected plants should be destroyed. You can prevent most nematode attacks by providing adequate spacing between plants, avoiding wet foliage through the use of soaker hoses, and removing and destroying all infected plants. Think just bugs are eating hostas? Think again. Deer and rabbits will oftentimes feast on hosta plants. In fact, deer may leave only stalks where beautiful hosta foliage once was while rabbits usually prefer nibbling on the young shoots.[图片]Common Hosta Diseases Anthracnose is one of the most common diseases affecting hosta plants. This fungal disease thrives in warm, wet weather. The most obvious sign of anthracnose includes large, irregular spots surrounded by a dark border. Once the centers of the spots fall out, the leaves may look torn and can sometimes be mistaken for pest damage. As with nematode prevention, try to keep good distance between plants and avoid overhead watering which results in wet foliage. The use of fungicide spray in spring may be helpful as well. However, look for those that specifically target this disease.[图片]Another fungus that affects hosta plants is Sclerotium blight. This disease first targets the lower leaves but then quickly spreads to the upper ones causing a path of wilted, brown leaves. In addition, there is usually a fluffy, white mass on the petioles. This particular fungus is difficult to control, as it lives in the soil and overwinters beneath mulch. Therefore, it often helps to pull back any mulch from the plant. Crown rot also affects hostas and is often caused by overly wet situations. This disease usually results in yellow foliage, stunted growth, and root rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hostas are a perennial favorite among gardeners and with 2,500 varieties to choose from, there’s a hosta for every garden need, from ground cover to giant specimen. They come in leaf colors that range from almost white to a deep, dark, blue-green. They reach their full maturity in four to eight years and given good care and the right growing conditions, can outlive their owners. They’re a great plant to share with neighbors and friends and are prime candidates for transplanting. Hostas are easily moved once you know how. To transplant hosta plants, you’ll need a good shovel, nutritious additives for the soil, and, for larger specimens in particular, a means to move your plant.[图片]When to Transplant Hostas Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.[图片]How to Transplant Hostas Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.[图片]Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hostas make a lovely shade garden plant but there is no reason that these hardy and versatile foliage plants need to remain tucked away in your shade garden. Hostas will also thrive in containers and look wonderful accenting a shady patio or porch. Also, if you have serious trouble with slugs in your garden, container gardening with your hostas may be the answer.[图片]How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers To plant your hostas in containers: Fill the base of the pot you’ve chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches will do. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don’t fill it completely just yet, though. Place a handful of slow release fertilizer in the container. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the rootball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil. Make sure you water the plant carefully. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It’s also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.[图片]Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the beautiful features of hostas are their rich green leaves. When you find your hosta plant leaves turning yellow, you know something is wrong. Yellowing leaves on hosta doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but it is definitely time to investigate. The problem could be anything from too much sun to incurable diseases. If you want to find out why hosta leaves turn yellow, read on.[图片]Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant. Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.[图片]Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.[图片]Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.[图片]Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.[图片]Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hostas have becomes garden favorites in recent years, and it isn’t difficult to figure out why. Available in a huge variety of sizes, colors and forms, hostas provide color and interest in those difficult, shady garden spots. Hostas are relatively trouble free, but they can be affected by various diseases. Read on to learn more about a few of the most common hosta plant diseases and treatments.[图片]Common Hosta Diseases Diseases of hosta plants generally include both fungal and viral issues, as well as problem caused by nematodes in the soil. Fungal Diseases Anthracnose – This disease plagues not only hosta, but many other types of plants, including trees and tomatoes. Although it usually isn’t fatal, the large, pale brown spots, small black splotches and a tattered appearance can definitely detract from the appearance of the plant. A fungicide may help prevent the disease. Be sure hostas are spaced widely enough to provide air circulation; anthracnose thrives in damp conditions. Fusarium root/crown rot – This fungal disease usually appears in late spring, when leaves turn yellow and brown before they die and drop from the plant. Stems near the soil line often display a dry, brown or black decay. Infected plants should be removed, as plants with crown rot normally cannot be treated.[图片]Sooty mold – Common hosta diseases include sooty mold, which is often found on hostas planted under trees affected with sap-sucking pests, such as scale or aphids. The pests produce a sugary excrement, which drops on the plant and attracts the dark, unattractive mold. Sooty mold is unsightly but usually harmless. However, it can block light, which can affect the health of the plant. The fix? Wash the guck off with warm, soapy water and treat the plant for pests. Viral Diseases Hosta virus X – Early symptoms of hosta virus X include green or blue spots that give the leaves a mottled appearance. The symptoms look normal at first, but the leaves may become twisted, puckered or distorted as the disease progresses. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this viral disease, which is easily spread from plant to plant on garden tools or hands. Plants should be destroyed as soon as possible. Treating hosta diseases such as Hosta virus X requires cleaning and sanitizing of all garden tools.[图片]Other viral diseases include tomato ringspot, tomato wilt, impatiens necrotic spot and Arabis mosaic. Although symptoms vary, affected plant leaves tend to display puckering and yellowing. Some may develop concentric rings that look like targets. Nematodes Nematodes are miniscule worms that live in the soil or inside the tender hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow when the nematodes are feeding in early summer. As the season progresses, the leaves develop brownish streaks between the veins. Eventually, entire leaves turn brown and drop from the plant. Affected leaves should be destroyed. To prevent the nematodes from spreading, water the plant at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.[图片]
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the boldest and easiest to grow perennial plants is the hosta. These large leaved beauties come in a range of sizes and hues and thrive in semi-shady areas of the garden with little extra care. However, pests on hosta plants can damage the exceptional foliage and diminish the plant’s health. Check out some of the common hosta pests so you know what to look for and how to control these damaging little devils.[图片]Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant. It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself.[图片]Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage. Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins. Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots. If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.[图片]Common Hosta Pests Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.[图片]Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches off the ground.[图片]Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gardeners go for hosta plants because of their lush greenery and shade tolerance. These popular shade plants offer an entrancing variety of foliage, from smooth leaves to puckered leaves, green or yellow or blue leaves, and leaves the size of a quarter to leaves as big as a plate. But pests can attack foliage and make it ragged. And come winter, the foliage of these perennials wilt and die back. These are the times to sanitize your pruners and get to cutting back hosta plants. Read on for information on how to prune hostas.[图片]Can You Cut Back Hostas? Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers. It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.[图片]When to Cut Back a Hosta When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.[图片]How to Prune Hostas in the Winter In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
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