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Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Miss Chen
The gray mold fungus is the main cause of mold in strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa). Gray mold, Botrytis cinerea, usually affects strawberries growing in cold or damp conditions and it makes them inedible. Contact with decayed plant material also helps spread gray mold. Strawberries grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety. Buying new, disease-free plants every year helps reduce problems with mold. [图片]Causes of Mold Mold overwinters in plant debris and on living plants that carry the disease, and infects strawberries when conditions are right. Ripe, red strawberries or unripe green strawberries can suffer from mold, but the fungus most quickly affects ripening fruit. Contact with soil, dead leaves and infected fruit spreads the mold fungus. Fungus spores can also spread through people touching infected fruits and then healthy fruits, and on the wind. Gray mold develops when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Wet weather, high humidity and overhead watering also encourage mold growth. Overfertilizing strawberry plants creates lush, soft growth that's vulnerable to mold attack. Symptoms of Infection Strawberries infected with gray mold develop minor symptoms that gradually become worse. Infections often begin under the small leaves surrounding the strawberry stalks. Light brown spots appear, which grow larger and develop gray, dusty mold that covers the whole fruit. Strawberry fruits infected with gray mold usually maintain their shape. Infected fruits don't recover. In unfavorable conditions, such as dry, warm air and good air circulation, the disease progresses slowly. The strawberry plant's eaves and stems usually look normal, though gray mold can spread up strawberry stalks. [图片]Preventing Mold Avoiding crowding and shady sites and use other =controls help prevent mold in strawberries. Grow strawberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 18 inches apart in open, full-sun sites. Stagger the plants so that they are diagonally opposite in their rows. Water strawberries with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and not with a watering can, garden hose or sprinklers. Spread a sheet of woven plastic that allows water to penetrate, or another mulch, between the plants to prevent fruits from touching the soil. Suitable mulches include clean straw, sawdust and paper. Don't fertilize strawberries in spring, but wait until after harvesting the fruits. Apply a 16-16-16 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pound for each 100 square feet, when the strawberry leaves are dry. Don't allow the fertilizer to touch the leaves. Removing dead and diseased fruits and foliage also helps prevent gray mold from spreading. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping the blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, before and after pruning strawberries. Treating Mold Regular spraying with a fungicide helps protect strawberries from mold. Put on long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, safety goggles and gloves before spraying strawberries with fungicides. On a dry, still day in spring, when new growth appears on the strawberries, dilute a fungicide containing 48.9 percent N-trichtoromethylthio~cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboximide at a rate of 2 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. One gallon of solution treats 100 square feet of strawberry plants. Spray the plants, covering all plant surfaces, and spray them again every seven days until harvest. Manufacturers' instructions vary from product to product, so always read the product label and follow the instructions. Make sure any product you buy is safe to use on edibles.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Miss Chen
Strawberry plants grow low to the ground and produce runners. They self-propagate through "daughter" plants. Self-propagation assures several years of continued growth, with three to five years of continued fruit production. Like all perennials, though, strawberry plants need specific fall and winter [图片]Preparation Successful strawberry patches begin with the right planting area and soil for long-term success -- and also makes protecting the plants during the winter an easier task. Plant strawberries to receive full sunshine and quick drainage all year to keep them healthy in both summer and winter. Use a generous amount of organic compost at planting to maintain soil quality, and keep the soil from flooding or freezing in fall and winter. Renovation According to Purdue University, strawberry patches require yearly renovation in the fall to continue efficient growth and fruit production. Renovate your strawberry patch in late summer or fall, depending on the strawberry cultivar. Always start immediately after the last fruit harvest. This renovation eliminates old, finished plants and encourages new growth. Process Give the strawberries 12-12-12 fertilizer at a rate of 4 to 6 lbs. per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer into the top 2 inches of soil to encourage new runner development. Mow all foliage down to within 1 inch of the soil, and pull up excess growth to narrow the rows to 6 to 8 inches. Cover the rows with 1/2 inch of soil and water as usual, to allow for new growth. [图片]Winter Protection Mulching and winter protection must follow renovation, to protect strawberries through the cold season. When new plants emerge from your renovated soil, water and weed them as usual until two to three weeks before the first frost of the season. At that time, give the new plants 12-12-12 fertilizer per manufacturer directions, then spread 4 to 5 inches of organic mulch, straw or shredded paper over the path. Maintain this layer through winter and turn it into the soil in spring.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Miss Chen
Although tomatoes need moist, rich soil to produce healthy fruit, too much water is just as bad as too little. Signs of over watering may mimic disease or other environmental problems, but if several symptoms are present, too much water is the likely cause. Fortunately, tomato plants usually recover within a few weeks from over watering. [图片]Excess Foliage Over watering, as well as over fertilizing, causes tomato plants to produce lots of lush, leafy growth, but few tomatoes. Cold weather and drought conditions may also cause blossoms to drop, but won't produce an excess of foliage. If your plant seems to have an overabundance of leaves, but no fruit, suspect too much water or nitrogen. Fruit Symptoms As a tomato begins to ripen from green to red, the fruit develops a thin, papery shell. If the plant is watered excessively during this time, the shell cracks. Blossom-end rot is a brown or black spot that develops on the bottom of the fruit and spreads, eventually causing the entire fruit to decay. Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but is exacerbated by inconsistent watering practices. Leaf Symptoms Too much water and too little water often produce similar results. The leaves may wilt, turn yellow and drop, or the tips may become burnt. Too much fertilizer also causes leaf tip burn. Brown spots on the leaves, cankers or holes are usually caused by disease or insect infestation rather than environmental conditions. [图片]Considerations Amend heavy clay soils or sandy soils with compost and manure before planting tomatoes. These amendments improve drainage for both types of soil, reducing the risk of over watering. Water tomatoes when the soil feels dry 1/2 inch under the surface. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels dry at the first joint, it's time to water. Water for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the moisture to soak thoroughly into the soil. Check the soil frequently to keep it consistently moist -- neither dry nor soggy.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are grown as annuals in most American vegetable gardens for eating and cooking. While they are relatively hardy and easy to grow, they are susceptible to four varieties of blight. A number of treatments can destroy and prevent blight. Prior to treatment, fruit showing signs of blight infection should not be eaten or used for canning. [图片]Types of Blight There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes: Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions. Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions. Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation. Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions. [图片]Homemade Fungicide and Myths If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture. While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor. Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues. Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight. Commercial Products Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured. Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled. Repairing Soil and Prevention A number of measures will prevent blight: Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry Space plants so they do not touch Use only disease-free plants and seeds Mulch under plants Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest Choose blight-resistant cultivars Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants. Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Miss Chen
To diagnose tomato fungal diseases, look for rotten-looking spots in humid weather, especially if it has been raining or you've been watering your tomatoes (Lycopericon esculentum) with sprinklers. No fungal disease is limited strictly to tomatoes. The same fungal diseases that strike tomatoes strike other plants. Turn to simple homemade fungicides to help get rid of the problem. [图片]Fungal Diseases Found on Tomatoes When the weather is hot, watch for the telltale spots of these fungal diseases that often strike tomatoes. Powdery mildew (Leveillula taurica) causes irregular, bright-yellow blotches on leaves. The blotches develop dead spots surrounded by a yellow halos. White spores form on the tops or bottoms of the leaves. Powdery mildew eventually kills the leaves, weakening the plant and causing sunburned tomatoes. Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as spots with concentric rings and surrounded by yellow on leaves, stems and tomatoes. Early blight can kill much of the leaves and cause tomatoes to drop. Late blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, typically starts in cool weather, forming dark, water-soaked spots with white mold on the edges. Late blight can turn leaves and stems completely brown within two weeks. Infected tomatoes develop shiny dark spots. Septoria (Septoria lycopersici) typically appears when it has rained or you're using sprinklers and the temperatures are between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. After the plants begin to set tomatoes, small beige spots with dark borders appear on leaves near the ground. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The weakened plant produces smaller, poorer quality tomatoes. Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulfa, forms yellowish or pale green spots on the tops of leaves. As the top leaves grow, turning more yellow, a gray, velvety mass of spores grow on the bottoms of the leaves. It can also attack blossoms, stems and tomatoes. It starts in warm weather with high humidity. Anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum coccoides, causes small rounded dents on tomatoes that grow larger and spread deeper. This fungus also appears in warm, humid weather with sprinkler watering or rainfall. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) spreads upward from the soil, causing drooping plants and wilting, yellow leaves, sometimes on just one side of the stem. Fungicides for Powdery Mildew Try apple cider vinegar or milk to treat powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. [图片]Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of 5 percent acidic apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on the leaves during the cool hours of morning. Spray a mixture of 1 ounce of milk to 9 ounces of water every three to four days when you first spot signs of powdery mildew on your plants. More Homemade Fungicides To prevent or treat fungal diseases, spray plants the tops and bottoms of the leaves twice a week during wet weather and once each week during dry conditions with a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide, which you can buy at most drug stores. Check the label on the hydrogen peroxide, but there's usually no need to dilute the standard drugstore type. Do not spray young seedlings with this mixture as it can potentially kill them. Use this mixture only on established plants. Finely chop 1 garlic bulb, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, 4 hot peppers and 1 lemon in a blender. Steep this mixture overnight then strain it through cheesecloth or other fine strainer. Add 4 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 gallon of water, pour it into a sprayer and use it when you spot symptoms of fungal disease, spraying tops and bottom of the foliage. To make a fungicide from cornmeal, soak 1 cup of whole, ground cornmeal in 5 gallons of water then strain the solids. Spray the milky juice on tomato leaves. Finely chop 1 cup of horseradish roots in a food processor and soak it in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, mix it with 2 quarts of water, put it in a sprayer and spray it on the leaves. Bordeaux Mixture While the term "homemade" suggests household ingredients, perhaps the best organically approved fungicide you can make at home to treat a wide variety of fungal disease on tomatoes uses ingredients that you can buy at most garden supply centers. The Bordeaux mixture is especially useful for treating early and late blight in addition to powdery mildew and other fungal infections. To make a Bordeaux mixture appropriate for home garden use, mix 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime with 1 pint of water. Separately, mix 6 1/2 tablespoons of copper sulfate in another pint of water. Filter each of these through cheesecloth or other loosely woven cloth to remove particles that might clog a sprayer nozzle. Pour the copper sulfate solution into the garden sprayer tank then the hydrated lime solution then another 3 pints of water. Shake the tank frequently while you spray the tomatoes.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Miss Chen
While you eagerly wait for the first bite out of one of your homegrown tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), you might be dismayed to notice unsightly fungal growth on your plants. Before blasting the foliage with potentially harmful chemicals, try using a simple baking soda spray. The organic spray is easy to mix and could be just what you need to protect your tomato crop from nasty fungi. [图片]Why It Works Baking soda contains sodium bicarbonate, a substance that can help naturally control various tomato fungal diseases, including anthracnose, leaf spots, early tomato blight and powdery mildew. Baking soda doesn't actually kill the fungi, however. Instead, the sodium bicarbonate alters the pH balance of the foliage so the fungal spores can't germinate and grow. Because of this, baking soda works well as a preventative fungicide, but it doesn't spread easily or adhere well to foliage. Adding horticultural oil or dish soap to the spray gives it some sticking and spreading action. Oils can also help eradicate fungal spores already infecting your tomato plants. Spray Recipes Baking soda sprays are easy to make, and you can mix them up right inside of your garden sprayer. The Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County recommend combining 5 tablespoons of horticultural oil with 2 gallons of water. After mixing thoroughly, add 8 teaspoons of baking soda to the solution, and stir until the powder completely dissolves. Another recipe recommended by Mike McGrath, host of "You Bet Your Garden" on WHYY, calls for adding liquid dish soap to the mixture, but use a natural soap with no bleach, fragrance or other additives. Simply mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda, 2 tablespoons of horticultural oil and about 4 drops of dish soap into 2 gallons of water. Shake well and start spraying your tomato plants. [图片]Spraying Tomatoes To prevent fungal diseases, apply baking soda sprays to tomato plants every seven to 14 days until the humidity levels no longer promote infections. Plants already infected need to be sprayed as often as every five to seven days until the disease symptoms clear up. Before spraying already infected tomatoes, remove infected foliage and any mulch surrounding the plants. Then give your tomatoes a strong blast of water from a garden hose to help loosen up the fungal spores. Apply the baking soda solution to the buds, fruit and plant foliage, making sure you evenly coat the tops and undersides of leaves until the solution drips from the foliage. You can use baking soda sprays up until the day before harvest, but allow the spray to dry for one to four hours before re-entering the treatment area. Avoid spraying plants in direct sunlight or when temperatures reach higher than 80 degrees Fahrenheit, or you risk burning the foliage. Spray in the early morning or evening hours when it's cooler. Reapply baking soda sprays after heavy rainfall. Words of Caution Although nontoxic, baking soda sprays can still burn plant foliage. Test the solution on a small section of leaves, and wait at least 24 hours before inspecting for damage. If no burning occurs, spray your entire plant. Baking soda can accumulate in the soil, which often strips the soil of magnesium and calcium while making plants less able to absorb iron. This can cause your tomato plants to experience yellowing leaves or slow growth. Avoid using baking soda sprays more often then once every 14 days when trying to prevent plant fungal infections. When working with the fungicidal spray, protect your skin and eyes by putting on safety glasses, a face mask, long sleeves and pants. Recognizing Fungal Diseases Most common tomato fungal diseases thrive when humidity levels are high and temperatures fall between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Powdery mildew causes white to light gray spots to form on leaves. Those spots quickly spread and cover tops and undersides of leaves with a white, talcum powderlike substance. Anthracnose fruit rot causes round, water-soaked circles about 1/4 inch in diameter to form on ripening fruit. Early tomato blight can infect fruit, leaves and stems. On leaves, it initially shows up as brown to black spots that grow into a target pattern. Infected leaves can turn yellow and fall from the plant. Fruit infections form a target pattern on immature tomatoes, while stem infections appear as gray sores with dark borders. Septoria leaf spot affects stems and leaves, appearing as small spots with light centers and deep brown margins. The foliage surrounding the spots eventually yellows, and the entire affected leaf dies.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Miss Chen
The best fungicide for tomatoes, or any other kind of plant, is prevention. Fungicides can protect a plant if they are used before any kind of fungal infection begins. Once a fungus attacks a plant, eliminating it isn't easy. You can control its spread by continuing to spray uninfected parts of the plant, but there is little chance of stopping a fungus once it starts. Proper planting and care practices are your best weapons against tomato fungus. [图片]Prevention Plant tomatoes when the soil has warmed to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the night air temperatures are in the 50s. Give the plants plenty of air circulation for when they reach their mature size; don't crowd them. Plant them in full sun in rich soil, and water only at the base of the plants, not from above with a hose or sprinkler. Wet foliage encourages fungal disease. Don't overfertilize tomatoes. A handful of tomato fertilizer and a handful of lime added to the hole when planting is all they need for the season. Plant tomatoes in a different spot every three years to prevent diseases from building up in the soil. Septoria Blight After the first fruits set on the plant, the lower leaves of the plant can become infected with white or gray spots with a black or brown margin. Pick off infected leaves, and discard them in the garbage. Spray the plant with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide labeled for use on vegetables or one containing Chlorothalonil. Septoria spreads quickly in wet weather, so be sure the plants are well spaced, and avoid working among them when they're wet. Clean up all refuse in the fall, so the fungus doesn't overwinter in the debris. [图片]Early Blight Dark brown or black spots can appear on the lower leaves of the plant after the plant has set plenty of fruit. Rings appear inside the spot, making it resemble a bull's eye. The fungus attacks the stems and fruit, too, producing black, sunken spots. Leaves yellow and drop off. Pick off infected leaves and fruit, and cut off affected stems, dipping your pruners in a one-part-bleach, nine-parts-water solution between each cut. At the first sign of trouble, begin spraying the plants with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Clorothalonil or Mancozeb. Late Blight Late blight appears toward the end of the growing season when night temperatures begin to cool. Black, wet-looking spots start at the leaf edge and spread inward. Wet weather aids the spread of the fungus, and it affects the fruit, as well, with rough, dark brown patches. Remove infected plant parts, and spray with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb.
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Ivy N
2017年10月26日
Ivy N
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Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Miss Chen
Not only are grapes a healthy food to eat, but few things taste any better than fresh grapes plucked straight from the vine. In addition, because grapes grow in virtually every area of the country, all it takes is a spot to plant them and most home gardeners can enjoy this tasty fruit fresh from their own vines. However, grape vines take time to grow and to become established before they begin producing fruit. Harvest Time [图片]One mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season. Grape vines require patience. The first several years after grape vines are planted they do not produce fruit. During those first few years grape vine's root structure grows and the vine develops strong and numerous branches to hold all those grapes it eventually produces. But do not expect to see any grapes until at least the third year. In addition, it takes about five to six years for grapevines to begin producing a consistent, heavy crop of grapes. But the wait is worth it -- one mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season. Selecting a Site [图片]When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes. Because grape vines take at least three years to begin producing fruit, planting represents a long-term commitment. Once established, with proper care grape vines can live and produce grapes for 50 to 100 years. So plant the vines in the right spot, because it disrupts their growth to move them. Choose a sunny, well-drained area to ensure reliable production of quality grapes. In climates where spring frost is possible, select a sheltered spot. When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes. Basic Grape Categories [图片]A local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area. With hundreds of different cultivars there is plenty of choice. To help make your decision, it helps to know that there are four basic categories of grapes, Muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia), American (Vitis labrusca), European (Vitis vinifera) and French hybrids, which are crosses of V. vinifera cultivars with wild American species that are resistant to disease, according to West Virginia University Extension. Regardless of your choice, all grapevine varieties take about the same time before they begin producing fruit. In addition, a local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area. Choosing Grape Vines [图片]Grapes come in seeded or seedless varieties in many different colors including white, green, red, black, blue-black and purplish. Decide if you want to grow bunch grapes, which includes Concord, or Muscadine grapes, which includes Scuppernogs, or grow both. Bunch grapes are self-fertile and can be planted alone or with other varieties. Keep in mind that some grapes are more high-maintenance than others. While the American grape varieties are resistant to disease, the vinifera type grapes need periodic chemical sprays during the year to control pests. American and French-American hybrids are the most commonly grown types for home gardens.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Miss Chen
Grapes are planted in the late winter to early spring months. The plants start to grow in spring and continue to grow throughout the summer season. Grapes ripen in the late summer to early fall, depending on the variety grown. Grape varieties are available for USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9. [图片]Location Grapes require a location that receives high summer temperatures and full sunlight. Grape vines need protection from frost, so plant them on southern slopes, and avoid any low spots or places where cold air may collect. The length of the growing season varies among the different grape varieties, but grapes generally need 150 to 180 frost-free days between spring and fall freezes. Late spring freezes can kill newly opened shoots and compromise production. Pruning Pruning should be performed in late winter to early spring. When timing your pruning, aim to avoid the coldest parts of winter, but also to beat the period when buds begin to swell, suggests the University of Illinois Extension. New shoots appear on vines in the spring and mature into canes in the fall. When pruning, keep in mind that the previous season's wood supports the current season's growth, and fruit and flowers appear on the current season's growth. Propagation You can take cuttings from dormant vines in late fall or early spring to expand your plantings. This task is best performed in early spring so that you can plant your cuttings as soon as they leaf out and their roots develop, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Cuttings may be taken from vines or pruned material. [图片]Harvest Grapes are mature and ready for harvest when their seeds turn from green to brown or their flavor reaches its peak. You should not use their skin color as a predictor of ripeness, as grapes may color before they mature. Grapes generally soften and develop a sweeter and less acidic flavor as they mature. If you pick based on color, you may harvest your grapes before they reach an ideal size and sweetness. The flavor of grapes will not improve after harvest. Selection Select grape varieties based upon your plans for the fruit, the flavor of the grapes and their disease resistance. When choosing grapes, look for varieties that possess the degree of cold hardiness needed to suit your growing region. Grapes range in hardiness from very cold tender, requiring low temperatures over 0 degrees Fahrenheit, to very hardy, tolerant of temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
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