动态第463页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

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Blueberries not only taste wonderful but are filled with nutrients such as vitamin C, manganese and antioxidants that can help ward off diseases. However, the high cost and low quality of blueberries in the store may keep you from enjoying this fruit. Luckily, blueberries aren't difficult to grow and one mature bush can yield several pounds of berries. Soil pH and proper fertilization are key components of growing your own blueberries. [图片]Where to Plant Blueberries will grow in most gardens with acidic soil. Although they can tolerate full sun, they do best in an area that is shaded during the hottest time of day. Avoid planting blueberries where they will be heavily shaded most of the day. Most blueberries do best planted in the ground, but some varieties have been cultivated to grow well in pots. Soil Conditions Blueberries planted in soil with a pH greater than 5.5 have difficulty taking up nutrients, and fruit production will suffer. The best pH for blueberries is 4.0 to 5.0. If your soil pH is higher than this optimal range, amend the soil with peat moss or pine needles to increase the acidity. Regardless of how much fertilizer you apply to your blueberries, if they aren't planted in acidic soil, the roots can't take in the nutrients efficiently. When to Fertilize Blueberries planted in a good location and in acidic soil don't require heavy feedings. Fertilize once in early spring when the shrubs come out of dormancy and start to produce leaves. Fertilize again when flower buds begin to appear in May or June. Do not fertilize blueberries after July. [图片]Type of Fertlizer to Use Good fertilizers for blueberries are high in nitrogen and potassium with a moderate amount of phosphorus and micronutrients. Fertilizers specifically intended for rhododendrons are ideal for blueberries since both plants require similar growing conditions. Blueberry plants with leaves that have turned yellow need iron in the form of iron sulfate or iron chelate. Yellow leaves signal that the soil is not acidic enough for the blueberry plant.

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Blueberries are popular fruit for home growing, especially in areas with moist or acidic soil. These bushes produce fruit that works well for fresh, cooked or frozen use. Like other plants, blueberry bushes go through a specific set of stages over the course of their lives. This life cycle can be influenced, but not changed, by environmental factors. [图片]Seed Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring. Growth Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit. [图片]Flower Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce. Fruit Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.

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Blueberries are members of the heath family and many varieties grow throughout the United States. The bushes not only provide sweet fruit when ripe, but the shrubs themselves are attractive and hardy. If your blueberry bush is suffering, there are several factors to consider to make sure that the bush is receiving the proper care and maintenance. With a few adjustments to its care, you may be able to revive the bush. [图片]Step 1 Test the pH in the soil surrounding the blueberry bush. You can get a testing kit from a gardening store or from a local university extension. Blueberries require a low pH, lower than most other small fruits and if the pH is too high, you will need to make adjustments to the soil. Ideally, the pH should be around 4.8. If the pH test results are above that range, incorporate the recommended amount of elemental sulfur into the soil. Step 2 Evaluate the amount of water that your blueberries are receiving. Your bushes may be suffering from a lack of water, especially during times of drought. Blueberries need a lot of water and should be watered to 2 inches into the soil once every three days in the summer. But be cautious as well, because if you water more than once every three days, your blueberries might be getting too much water, which could cause root rot. Step 3 Prune the bush once each fall. You should cut off approximately two-thirds of the top growth on bare-root plants, but only remove half of the plant if you're growing it inside. Also, remove any of the remaining rounded buds and all but two or three of the sturdiest upright shoots. [图片]Step 4 Fertilize the blueberry bush only if the soil test results indicated that there is a lack of nutrients in the soil. If the soil is well-balanced and nutrient-rich, then don't ever add fertilizer, as fertilizer can damage and stunt blueberries. If you have been using fertilizer regularly, discontinue use, which could be enough to help revive the bush. Step 5 Add 3 inches of organic mulch around the bush. This will help the bush maintain moisture and discourage weed growth. Step 6 Transplant the bush if it is older than 2 years and if the planting location does not provide at least some afternoon shade. You also want to replant if the soil does not drain well. Amend with organics, such as peat moss, to allow better draining. Do not transplant unless the bush is at least 2 years old and keep its roots moist the entire time as you are moving it.

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Both blueberries and black currants are small, dark-colored berries that grow in dense clusters on the branches of their bushes. The similarities end there, however -- the two types of plants are quite different in both their growth preferences and the flavor of their berries. [图片]Blueberry Types and Growth Habits Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife. The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance. Black Currant Types and Growth Habits The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas. Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh. Soil Preferences Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water. [图片]Winter Hardiness European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.

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Blueberry bushes are perennial, woody plants offering both ornamental foliage and edible fruit, making them increasingly popular in home landscapes, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. They can be challenging to grow, however. When your plant produces small blueberries, it may be due to one or more reasons, including variety, maturity and care. [图片]Features Native to the United States, blueberries traditionally grow commercially in cool zones such as the Pacific Northwest and north-central regions. Thanks to new cultivars, blueberries now grow in temperate climates from Florida to California. Blueberry varieties range from large-fruit blueberries such as "Chandler" to small-fruit such as "Rubel." Size is no indicator of flavor, as small berries often have rich taste suited to baking pies. Your blueberries may be small because the bush is a small-fruit bush. Consider planting a companion blueberry of a different variety as the cross-pollination frequently results in larger fruit on your original bush. Maturity Blueberry bushes mature slowly. A blueberry bush begins fruiting at one or two years, but the bush is not fully productive until it is six to eight years old. Young bushes yield small fruit. Rub off the flowers if your bush is young; flowers take nutrition away from the growing bush. While the plant is young, the vegetative growth helps the bush develop strong canes and roots but flowering and fruit production hinder growth, resulting in a small bush and sparse fruit. Pruning Blueberries produce fruit on new and vigorous wood. As the bush matures at five years, look for old and weak canes. Prune these off at ground level in late winter or early spring. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the wood, the larger the fruit. Old and weak wood yields small berries. As blueberries fruit on one-year canes, keep the strongest mature canes and two or three new canes that will yield next year's crop. [图片]Flowers Flowers mature into blueberries, but too many flowers on mature bushes result in small berries. Remove at least half the flowers and tiny fruit so that the remaining fruit is large and juicy. Thin the flowers by rubbing them off with your fingers or gloves. Another method is pruning the flowering shrub. Often the weak and stunted twigs have the most flowers and fewest leaves. Prune these twigs and flowers near the end of flowering season. This reduces strain on the canes and encourages fruit production, larger fruit and healthier plants. Water Blueberry plants are thirsty. They have shallow roots and need a minimum of 1 to 2 inches water per week in spring and summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation so that water does not splash on the foliage and encourage disease. Water deprivation results in small berries and sparse production.

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Highbush blueberries are the most commonly planted type of blueberries. The name actually represents the Northern Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) and the Southern Highbush blueberries. Southern Highbush are a hybrid of Northern Highbush and the native Southern species, making it more suitable for the warmer climates of the Southern United States. Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) often are referred to as wild blueberries because they grow naturally in Maine, Quebec and Atlantic Canada. Large stands of naturally growing Lowbush varieties are harvested commercially each year, but they are not planted commercially. [图片]Range and Chilling Requirements All blueberry varieties require "chilling, " that is time spent dormant at temperatures between 45 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Lowbush Blueberries, suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 3 to 7, are high chill varieties requiring 1,000 to 1,200 chill hours each winter. Northern Highbush varieties, also suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3 to 7, need slightly less, between 800 and 1,000 chill hours annually. Southern Highbush varieties, suitable for USDA hardiness zones 5 to 10, need the least chilling, between 150 and 800 chill hours. Growth Patterns Highbush blueberry varieties grow in defined bush shapes. Some are short and compact, others tall and open, depending on the variety. In contrast, the Lowbush varieties form a dense ground cover that spreads by rhizomes underground. Lowbush varieties tend to be low growing plants, limited to 2 to 3 feet in height. In contrast, Highbush blueberries commonly grow up to 10 feet tall and can reach up to 23 feet in height. Pollination All varieties of Northern Highbush and most Southern Highbush blueberries are self-pollinating, but will produce better crops if two varieties are planted together. Not all Lowbush varieties are self-fertile. All blueberries require insect pollination, usually accomplished by native bees. Commercial growers often bring in additional bee hives to ensure adequate pollination. Management Lowbush varieties can be a challenge for home gardeners because they require attention to soil pH and extra weeding to establish. They need an acidic soil, preferably between 4.3 and 5.0. Because the plants spread in a dense mat, controlling them also may be an issue. Once established, Lowbush varieties need less maintenance than Highbush varieties. In contrast, Highbush varieties are easier to establish, but need regular pruning to keep them at a manageable height, while Lowbush varieties only need cutting back every 2 to 3 years to rejuvenate the plants. [图片]Fruit With good care, all varieties yield a good crop of highly nutritious berries. They are highly valued for their antioxidant content and overall nutrition. Wild Lowbush varieties produce smaller berries with a distinctive "wild" flavor that many people prefer.

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When it comes to growing your own garlic (Allium sativum), proper timing means the difference between a harvest of healthy, densely flavored bulbs and anemic, tasteless ones. Although garlic is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, it produces the most flavorful bulbs when grown in cool soil. In a Mediterranean climate, planting between late October and early November gives the cloves adequate time to form bulbs. If fall frosts are possible in your area, wait until after the first one to plant. The earlier you get cloves the ground, the larger your harvested bulbs will be. [图片]Sun and Soil Even in winter, garlic needs at least six hours of daily sun. It grows best in loose, organically rich well-drained loam. If necessary, improve the planting bed's lack of drainage or fertility with plant-based compost or well-aged manure before planting. Loosen its top 6 to 8 inches with a spade or tiller and work in 2 to 3 inches of compost or 1 inch of manure. The Cornell University Department of Horticulture estimates that 30 pounds of compost covers 10 square feet of soil to a 1-inch depth. Space the rows of garlic 1 foot apart, with 3 to 5 inches between the individual cloves. Mulch and Water Mulching newly planted garlic with a 2-inch layer of straw lures soil-aerating earthworms to the garden bed and discourages weeds. Don't water until the garlic's new, green shoots appear. After that, a weekly total of 1 inch of rain or supplemental water is enough until the foliage begins yellowing in early summer. That equates to 6 gallons of water per 10 square feet of soil. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist. After the leaves yellow and until you harvest the bulbs, let the soil dry out between watering sessions. Fertilizer Application When garlic's shoots are 6 to 8 inches high, side dress the bed with granulated, high-nitrogen 21-0-0 fertilizer. Rake the mulch aside and dig 1- to 2-inch-deep furrows between the rows with the edge of a hoe. Keep them 6 inches from the plant. Sprinkle 2 1/2 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of fertilizer evenly over each 10 square feet of furrow and cover it with soil. Water the furrows immediately and reapply the mulch. [图片]Potential Problems Pests rarely affect garlic, and planting certified disease-free cloves from a reputable nursery dramatically reduces the likelihood of disease. Weeds may become troublesome because garlic foliage doesn't provide enough shade to keep them from germinating. Pulling or digging the weeds up as soon as they sprout stops them from stealing the garlic's moisture and nutrients without exposing it to chemical herbicides. Replacing the straw mulch as it decomposes also helps. About Those Curling Stalks In late spring, hardneck garlic varieties (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) send up thick flower stalks that eventually curl around themselves. Cut them for use in salads because leaving them on the plants channels energy away from bulb development.

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Although garlic (Allium sativum) is winter-hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 8, it's usually grown by home gardeners as an annual, its mature bulbs harvested after a single growing season. In Ohio, garlic should be planted in the fall or early spring so that it has plenty of time to develop before the end of summer. [图片]Choosing a Variety Garlic can be of either the soft-neck or hard-neck type. Soft neck garlic varieties often have larger bulbs and will store longer than hard-neck types, but hard-neck varieties tend to be more cold-hardy and are better suited to the climate in Ohio. Varieties that do well in the state include "Music," "German White" and "German Red." Timing of Planting Garlic plants put their energy into leaf development when the weather is cool, and once the days start to get warmer, leaf growth stops and bulb growth takes over. Consequently, the plants need plenty of time early in the growing season to develop enough foliage to fuel bulb development later. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6a; exceptions include areas along the Lake Erie shore and the southern part of the state, which are classified as USDA zone 6b. Other higher-elevation areas fall into USDA zone 5b. In these zones, planting cloves in the fall, starting in the third week of October, will give the plants a jump on the season and allow the leaves to start growing through the winter. Alternatively, you can plant cloves in the early spring, but planting later than March or early April in Ohio will not give the plants enough time to develop fully. Site Selection Garlic needs a location that gets full sun through much of the day. It also needs well-drained soil with a light enough texture to allow for good bulb development. A loose, crumbly loam will satisfy both of the those requirements. Heavy clay soils, however, may retain too much moisture and cause bulbs to rot, and dense soils may result in small or ill-formed bulbs. Raised beds will also help soil to drain better and prevent bulb rot. [图片]Soil Preparation Garlic plants are heavy feeders, and they benefit from substantial amendment of the soil when they're planted. Add organic compost to the planting bed both to increase the soil's organic content and to improve the soil's texture. Till 3 to 6 inches of organic compost into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition, add about 3 pounds of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed and work into the area prior to planting. Clove Selection and Planting It's best to buy seed garlic from a seed supplier or local grower. Supermarket garlic might grow in your garden, but when you know precisely what variety you're getting from a supplier, you're more likely to find a variety that will do well in your location. Separate bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting, taking care to leave the papery skin of the cloves intact. Choose the largest undamaged cloves to plant. Plant them with their tips facing upward between 1 and 1 1/2 inches deep; space the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart, and space rows of cloves 18 to 30 inches apart. Water the planting site until the soil is thoroughly moistened. Garlic doesn't need much water after planting, but if the soil is dry and it's not likely to rain soon, water the newly planted cloves thoroughly.

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If you come across a patch of wild garlic (Allium vineale), harvesting the perennial typically only requires a digging tool and a healthy sense of smell. The wild version -- which some people treat as a weed -- grows in many temperate parts of the United States and tends to be a bit tougher in texture than the garlic you might grow in your garden, writes Daniel McGrath of the Oregon State University Extension Service. It's edible, but you'll need to use caution to ensure you're harvesting the right plant. [图片]How to Spot It Identify wild garlic, hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9, by its thin, wax-like green leaves. It looks a lot like wild onion (Allium canadense) -- another edible perennial that's hardy from USDA zones 4 to 8 -- but when you break off a stalk of wild garlic, you should detect a strong odor of garlic, much like the standard garden variety. Both plants are winter perennials that will send up green shoots in the fall, after warm weather has passed. With wild garlic, the stalks sticking up from the ground are hollow, whereas wild onion produces flat stalks. Watch out for false garlic (Nothoscordum bivalve), hardy from USDA zones 6 to 11 and also called Crow poison, which looks very similar to wild garlic but doesn't give off the garlicky smell when the stalk is broken or crushed. False garlic may be poisonous, so if you're not absolutely sure you are working with wild garlic, don't harvest it. Although extension experts tend to agree wild garlic is edible, large doses could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. Ingest wild garlic only in small quantities. Large doses of wild garlic could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. [图片]Harvest Techniques Harvest wild garlic in the late spring before the weather gets hot and the leaves and stalks of the wild garlic begin to die back. Harvesting during that time will allow you to get the largest bulbs because they thrive in cold weather and use that time to grow. Ideally, harvest soon after a rain because that will ensure the ground is as soft as possible for digging. Dig a few inches around the plant and several inches down with a trowel or shovel until you reach the bulbs. Gently pull the bulbs from the ground and wash the entire plant with clean water before eating the bulbs and stalks. Remove any brown hulls around the bulbs. As you'll discover, the green stalks also have a garlicky flavor.