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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
[图片]生石花为多年生肉质草本。植株具肥大肉质根,但在自然状态下主根很少有侧根,仅在逐渐变细的主根末端有少数须根连有毛细根,当主根折断后会萌发侧根。 根状茎极短,植株卵圆形,高2-3.5厘米。地上部分是两片对生联结的肉质叶,呈倒圆锥体,叶色白、浅灰、棕、蓝灰、灰绿、红、紫红等。叶楔形、半圆形、椭圆形或肾形,对称或不对称。单株叶长18-50毫米,宽13-38毫米,群生植株2-50头。植株顶部具有深色枝状凹陷花纹,称作“视窗”;该属植物叶肉透明,叶片底部富含叶绿体,阳光从视窗进入植株内部并进行光合作用。 植株顶部具一裂缝,深约1-4毫米,裂缝中开花,花单生,雏菊状,花茎2-3厘米,花白或黄色,花期盛夏至中秋。蒴果5-9室,种子黄褐色、淡黄褐色或褐色,有斑点。 [图片]生石花的施肥方法 水果皮泡水施肥方法: 此方法适合所有友友,水果中的橘子皮效果最佳,而且制作的方法也非常的简单,在每年的春季与冬季把吃橘子剥下的橘皮收集,切碎,装入瓶子中,在倒入清水,比例约清水3/2,橘皮1/3,然后密封好,在阳光下放置约半个月左右,就可以使用了。一瓶橘子皮水加同样的一瓶清水就可以,约半个月施肥一次即可。 熟腐有机施肥方法: 此肥料可能对大部分友友来说并不好采集,但却是个不错的肥料。 春季时便要采集羊粪,放在背阴的角落,让它自然熟腐,大约到9月或10月就能拿来使用了。施肥时先将盆土挖出1.5厘米至2厘米厚,在把羊粪铺在土壤上,在羊粪上面覆一层厚1厘米的土壤即可,然后浇水,移至放在温暖,阳光充足的地方摆放;若盆直径是10厘米的,可用20克左右的羊粪,若盆直径是20厘米,可用50克左右的羊粪,但若盆更大,羊粪的量也不可过多。 这种肥料有多种好处,尤其对较懒的友友特别有用,羊粪一年用一次,在日常养护中就不用在施肥了;若在开花前期施肥,还能使其花朵艳丽花大;对冬季御寒也有不错的效果。 磷酸二氢钾施肥方法: 此肥料是对表植物表面进行喷施的,但要在9月以后喷施,一直到次年的6月初停止,每隔10天或15天一次。
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谢谢分享,试试看能不能把生石花养肥开花
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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
How much water a tomato plant needs depends on where it is in its life cycle. Tomato plants that are actively growing, flowering and setting fruit need more water than tomato plants that are still in the seedling stage (not having flowered yet). Water effects how the fruit looks: too much and the tomato will suffer from blossom-end rot; too little and the tomato will crack (also called cat facing). [图片]Germinating Tomato Seeds [图片]After sowing tomato seeds, it is important to keep the seed-sowing flat evenly moist. Don't water from above, as this might cause damping off. Place the flat in a larger shallow container that's filled with water. The flat will wick water from the container into the soil. Remove the flat when the soil is moist. When the surface of the soil starts to dry out, replace the flat in the container of water. Continue to do this until the seeds start to germinate. Seedling Tomatoes [图片]Seedling tomatoes should also be watered from the bottom up to avoid damping off and other bacterial disease. Once the seedling tomatoes have been potted into individual containers, allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out before watering. Continue to allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out while hardening off your seedlings. After transplanting your seedlings into the garden, gradually increase the time between watering until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil dries out before you water again. Do not allow your seedlings to wilt. The trick to watering tomatoes is to always water under the plant, as splashing water can cause disease, and water deeply and infrequently for deeper root growth. The longer the roots, the healthier the tomato plant and the less time you will have to water as the roots will pull water (and nutrients) up from deeper layers of soil. To water deeply, apply water to the soil until it starts pooling on the soil's surface. Stop watering when it takes one to two minutes for the pooled water to be absorbed by the soil. Flowering [图片]Flowering tomatoes need a steady supply of moisture to prevent decreased flowering and flower drop. Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You should only have to water every second or third day. Aim to give your tomato plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Remember that rain counts as a watering. Fruiting [图片]It is critical that your tomato plants receive adequate amounts of water while they are setting fruit. Inadequate water will cause your plant to stop flowering and to drop immature fruit. Too much water will cause your tomatoes to taste watery, and the skin to crack. Your tomato plants can withstand both insects and fungal or bacterial disease better if they're watered regularly. Continue to give your plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week; however, only allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Applying mulch, whether plastic or organic, will help conserve moisture and reduce the risks of soil-borne diseases. Your tomatoes may need more water if it is particularly hot and humid. Let the soil dryness indicate when your tomatoes need to be watered. Late Summer/Early Fall [图片]As the season winds down and late summer turns to fall, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Two to three weeks before your first frost date, stop watering your tomatoes. Remove unripened tomatoes as the plants start to die back.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
If you are thinking about buying or have already purchased a "Topsy Turvy" planting system you will need to figure out where to hang it and choose which tomato variety to plant into it. In the following steps you will find a few extra tips that are not included in the product instructions that will guide you through the process. [图片]Step 1 Decide where you will hang it. Tomatoes need full sun but with a hanging planter some shade at least on the root bag is better, especially on hot summer days. A location with morning sun and afternoon shade is probably the best. Optimum is if the bag is always out of direct sunlight but the plant receives full sun at least 6 hours per day. How high you hang it depends on the type of tomato plant you buy. Determinate patio type tomatoes are stocky and won't grow very tall (long). Cherry type and indeterminate types can grow quite tall (long). Most plant tags will give this information about variety characteristics. Step 2 Buy a tomato plant to grow in it. Using the above guidelines, pick the variety of tomato plant you will be growing. The hole at the bottom of the planter that you will insert the plant root ball through is only 2.5" in diameter. Pick a plant that is growing in a small enough pot that you can fit the root ball through the opening without damaging the roots. Step 3 Harden off the young tomato plant. Plants do not naturally grow in an upside down position so giving your young tomato seedling a few days to acclimate to the new conditions will help it adjust more quickly. Plants purchased from garden centers have been grown in optimum conditions by greenhouse growers and are usually in protected lower light conditions at the store. If the planter will be hanging in direct sunlight most of the day it will cause damage to the plant when it suddenly receives full sunshine on the undersides of the leaves. One way to adjust the plant to its new conditions, before transplanting, is to lay it on its side for a few days. Do this in the sun near where it will be growing. The plant will begin to turn itself toward the sun and will be in a better position when is planted and hung up. [图片]Step 4 Choose a potting mix to fill it. Any good draining general planting mix should be ok. Some mixes are also available that are specifically prepared for tomatoes and vegetables. Check the information on the bag of mix to see if it is recommended to be used for potted plants. Also, check to see if it has slow release or other fertilizers added to it. You will need to set up a liquid fertilizer regime or add slow release fertilizers if the mix doesn't already have any added. Step 5 Drill a hole to insert the hook provided. Pick a beam or support that is strong enough to hold the weight of a full sized plant, media and water. Leave enough space between the hook and surrounding plants or structures to allow for the size of a mature tomato plant and the "Topsy Turvy" plant bag. Step 6 Place the tomato seedling in the planter. Lay the "Topsy Turvy" on its side and put the root ball of the tomato plant through the bottom hole per instructions. Then place the foam insert around the stem, from the inside, to hold it in place. If the plant is a little leggy it can be planted deeper than it was growing in the pot and more roots will form along the stem. Step 7 Fill with potting media. This is the tricky part. The planter holds approximately 1/2 cubic foot of potting media. You will either need to have someone hold it for you while you are filling or you can lay it on its side and roll and fill as much as you can before you hang it. The bag, plus the cables and plant will be about 2.5 feet tall and can not be set down or it will damage the young plant. Step 8 Hang the planter. It will be heavy now because of the weight of the potting mix and you will most likely need a ladder to reach the hook. It is best to have someone assist you by holding the ladder and handing you the plant. They can also help support the bottom of the planter while you are hanging it on the hook. Step 9 Add water. Do this after you hang it so you will not be lifting the extra weight of the water too. The easiest way to water the hanging planter is to use a water wand extension for your hose. Water until the water starts to drain out the holes in the bottom.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
An invaluable growing method for both apartment-dwellers and homeowners not blessed with fertile soil, comes to the rescue even for larger annual edibles such as tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum). [图片]Pot Size How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types. Container Material If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes. Planting Medium You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand. Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron. Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container. [图片]Potting Up Step 1 Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows. Step 2 Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering. Step 3 Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag. Step 4 Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on. Care Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun. Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather. About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
A vegetable garden isn't complete without a tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) or two, if only for the pleasure of fresh tomatoes in midsummer. Even if you don't have the space for a large garden, tomato plants are suited to container gardening. Which means that if you have a 5-gallon bucket or two hanging around, you have the makings for a tomato garden. [图片]Preparing the Buckets Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil. Soil Choices Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants. Planting Properly Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season. Support Systems Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows. [图片]General Care Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Miss Chen
Varieties for Florida [图片]Because Florida's heat and humidity put tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) at risk for disease and pest problems, the University of Florida Extension service recommends that gardeners choose tomato varieties that are identified as being disease and pest resistant and are hardy growing in the state's conditions. The extension service specifically recommends nearly three dozen varieties for Florida, and of those, more than a dozen show resistance to at least some common disease and pest problems. The recommended varieties are not necessarily suitable for all parts of Florida, however. 'Bonnie Best,' for example, an indeterminate variety with medium-sized fruit, is noted as faring better in the northern part of the state, while 'Solar Set,' a determinate variety with large fruit, produces better than many varieties in the heat of South Florida. The determinate 'Flora-Dade' provides large tomatoes and is "highly recommended" for Florida by the extension service, while indeterminate 'Sweet Chelsea' provides abundant amounts of small tomatoes. Timing of Planting Florida's warm climate gives the state's gardeners the opportunity to get a head start on the growing season by planting tomatoes in the late winter or early spring, much earlier than the safe planting dates in cooler climates in the rest of the country. Tomatoes are frost tender, so they can't be planted outdoors until the danger of frost has passed, but they also become unproductive when temperatures are high, so they must be planted early enough, particularly in South Florida, to set fruit before the summer heat reaches its peak. [图片]In North Florida, tomatoes may be planted between February and April, in Central Florida between January and March, and in South Florida between November and February. They may be planted for a late-season crop between August and September in all parts of the state. Site Conditions and Planting Plant tomato plants in well-drained soil and in an area that receives full sun. Set plants in the ground at a level that's slightly deeper than they were growing in their starting medium, taking care to remove any lower leaves so that they're not buried; this deep planting encourages a stronger root system, as they sprout roots along the buried stem. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, and allow 4 to 5 feet between rows. Watering Water transplants thoroughly at planting time, and ensure that the plants get 1 to 2 inches of water per week during the growing season. If you need to provide supplemental irrigation during dry periods, water with the entire 1 to 2 inches at once, rather than in several light waterings during the week. Fertilization At planting time, apply 1 pounds of a 6-8-8 dry fertilizer per 20 square feet of planting area in strips on either side of each row. Side dress with the same fertilizer every seven to 10 days during the growing season, beginning three weeks after planting; apply at a rate so that the total fertilizer for the season, including the initial application, totals 2 pounds per 20 square feet. Always water thoroughly after each application.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
[图片]万年青,多年生草本。根状茎粗短,具许多纤维根,根上密生白色绵毛。叶基生,近两列套迭,成簇,向下部渐狭,但柄不明显,基部稍扩大。花葶侧生,于叶腋抽出,直立或稍弯曲;穗状花序多少肉质,密生多花;苞片膜质,卵形;花被球状钟形,顶端6浅裂;裂片短,内弯,肉质;雄蕊6,由于花丝大部分贴生于花被筒上,离生部分很短,故似着生于花被筒上端;花药背着,内向开裂;子房球形,3室,每室2个胚珠;花柱不明显,柱头3裂。浆果球形,具单颗种子。 [图片]万年青对肥料的需求 因为该种植物的叶片相对来说较大,又常年青葱,所以对养分的需求量比较大。 具体的施肥方法 特别要注意生长季节,最好每两周左右施加一次有机肥,每隔十天或者十五天还要追加一次液肥,若与粪便混合效果会更好。 它的花芽在分化前期时,要记得追施肥料,还可以在肥料中添加含有足量磷元素的养料,以补充必要的微量元素。 等到花朵即将开放时,暂停施肥。若是其后一个个小小的果实挂满了枝头,就又要改变策略,多次施肥 ,但每次要求是稀薄的肥料。 处于春季和秋季时,适当减少施肥频率,可以每隔半个月或二十天施加一次液肥,注意要选择氮元素和钾元素充足的肥料。 进入冬季时,温度较低,应暂停施肥,花友们不必担心养料不足,因为万年青已经储备了足够的养分来过冬。 还应注意的几个问题 氮肥对于万年青的生长至关重要,首选氮元素充足的养料,另外还可以在叶面上喷施含百分之零点三左右的尿素,两者结合效果更为明显。 在选择肥料时还要注意它水溶性,水溶性好的肥料比较容易被吸收,效果也相应会好。 在准备种植土壤时,除了要注意土壤的选择,还要在土壤中混入基肥,比如经过充分发酵的动物粪便,与少量土混合即可。配置完成后,还要先经过强烈的阳光暴晒后才可以使用。
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
[图片]君子兰根肉质纤维状,为乳白色,十分粗壮。根系粗大,很有肉质感。君子兰茎基部宿存的叶基部扩大互抱成假鳞茎状。叶片从根部短缩的茎上呈二列叠出,排列整齐,宽阔呈带形,顶端圆润,质地硬而厚实,并有光泽及脉纹。基生叶质厚,叶形似剑,叶片革质,深绿色,具光泽,带状,长30-50厘米,最长可达85厘米,宽3-5厘米,下部渐狭,互生排列,全缘。 花葶自叶腋中抽出,若从种子开始养护,一般要达到15片叶时开花。花茎宽约2厘米;小花有柄,在花顶端呈伞形排列,花漏斗状,直立,黄或橘黄色、橙红色。伞形花序顶生,花直立,有数枚覆瓦状排列的苞片,每个花序有小花7-30朵,多的可达40朵以上。花被裂片6,合生。垂笑君子兰则花稍垂,花被狭漏斗状。花梗长2.5-5厘米;花直立向上,花被宽漏斗形,鲜红色,内面略带黄色;花被管长约5毫米,外轮花被裂片顶端有微凸头,内轮顶端微凹,略长于雄蕊;花柱长,稍伸出于花被外。 浆果紫红色,宽卵形。盛花期自元旦至春节,以春夏季为主,可全年开花,有时冬季也可开花,也有在夏季6-7月间开花的。果实成熟期10月左右,属浆果,紫红色。花、叶并美。 [图片]君子兰的施肥方法 施底肥 也称作基肥。底肥的主要作用是为植株的发育创造条件,满足自身对养分需要。君子兰的底肥在在换盆时施用,每2年一次。常用的基肥有:动物粪便、绿肥、堆肥、豆饼肥等。 方法 在种植前将底肥与土壤混合。 追肥 追肥在植株生长期间进行。常用肥料有:饼肥、骨粉、鱼粉等。随着植株生长年龄的增长,叶片长大,自身所需养分增多,适时追肥利于植株的生长。 方法 施肥时将盆土扒开2~3厘米,将肥施入,注意不要过于靠近根系,以免伤根。通常每月一次,在生长期可适当缩减时间20天一次。 追施液肥 液肥其实也不需要购买专业肥料,直接将动植物腐熟的粪便浸泡,取其清液兑水20~40倍不等,根据小苗的大小而定。 在施肥1~2天之后浇一次水,目的是将液肥渗到根系,更好的发挥肥效。注意在施肥之前不要浇水。 根外追肥 当土壤中养分不足,植株体内缺肥生长缓慢此时应采取根外施肥的方法。常用肥料有尿素、过磷酸钙磷酸二氢钾等 方法 将肥料稀释成溶液直接喷到植株的叶片上,营养元素会通过叶片渗入植株。喷雾时注意叶片的正反两面要均匀喷施。通常生长季节4~6天喷施一次,半休眠状态10~15天喷施一次,在日出之后喷施。
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
[图片]茶花是灌木或小乔木植物,高9米,嫩枝无毛。叶革质,椭圆形,长5-10厘米,宽2.5-5厘米,先端略尖,或急短尖而有钝尖头,基部阔楔形,上面深绿色,干后发亮,无毛,下面浅绿色,无毛,侧脉7-8对,在上下两面均能见,边缘有相隔2-3.5厘米的细锯齿。叶柄长8-15毫米,无毛。 花顶生,红色,无柄;苞片及萼片约10片,组成长约2.5-3厘米的杯状苞被,半圆形至圆形,长4-20毫米,外面有绢毛,脱落;花瓣6-7片,外侧2片近圆形,几离生,长2厘米,外面有毛,内侧5片基部连生约8毫米,倒卵圆形,长3-4.5厘米,无毛;雄蕊3轮,长约2.5-3厘米,外轮花丝基部连生,花丝管长1.5厘米,无毛;内轮雄蕊离生,稍短,子房无毛,花柱长2.5厘米,先端3裂。 蒴果圆球形,直径2.5-3厘米,2-3室,每室有种子1-2个,3爿裂开,果爿厚木质。花期1-4月。培育品种茶花的花期较长,一般从10月份始花,翌年5月份终花,盛花期1-3月份。 干美枝青叶秀,花色艳丽多彩,花型秀美多样,花姿优雅多态,气味芬芳袭人,品种繁多,花大多数为红色或淡红色,亦有白色,多为重瓣。 [图片]盆栽茶花的施肥方法 氮肥催春梢 一般温度在18℃左右时,茶花便开始荫发春梢。这时应施氮肥为主的摧芽肥,约每10天1次,直到春梢开始木质化为止。或者同时用磷酸二氢钾、尿素和米醋混合稀液进行叶面喷施。这样经过多次根部和叶面喷洒,春梢就会长得十分茂盛,叶片能伸展到最大限度,枝梢能积累丰富的营养物质,为开花创造了非常好的条件。 为花蕾和花芽分化增施磷、钾肥 茶花春梢抽足,进入木质化后,会有一段较短的半休眠期。这时茶花会转入生长期,并且花芽开始分化。如果要使茶花多结蕾,此时便要多施磷、钾肥,少施或不施氮肥。这样既可以控制茶花枝条徒长,又能促进和缩短花芽分化时间,会更利于花蕾形成。 盛夏不宜施肥 盛夏天气炎热,茶花生长缓慢,大多陷于生长半停顿状态。此时不宜施肥,尤其是不能施浓肥。如土质瘠薄,可结合浇水略施稀薄的液肥,以改善土质。 秋季适当施以磷、钾肥为主的混合肥 秋季天高气爽,是茶花植株营养积累期。为了安全越冬,可以每隔半个月施以磷、钾肥为主的混合肥一次,或者叶面喷施,都可促进植株健壮,提高茶花抗寒力。 冬天宜施稀磷钾液肥 寒冬的茶花进入半休眠期,不需多少肥料。茶花入室,营养生长已进入休眠状态,但它的生殖生长也并未是完全停止的,所以应结合浇水施稀薄的磷钾液肥。(切忌施浓肥),为下一季的开花做准备。
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