动态第457页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年11月16日

Most homegrown tomato plants produce between 3 and 9 pounds of fruit in one season. Two or three plants are usually sufficient for a family of four for fresh eating. Plant two varieties, such as a cherry tomato for salads and a paste or slicing tomato. [图片]Varieties The yield of tomato plants depends in part on the variety. Beefmaster, a slicing tomato, produced almost 10 pounds of fruit in a Washington State University study, while Yellow Perfection, another slicing tomato, produced just under 4 pounds. Indeterminate tomatoes produce more fruits than determinate types generally, because they continue fruiting until the first frost. Determinate types produce one crop and then dwindle. Growing Conditions Hot weather and drought adversely affect tomato production. Tomatoes drop their blossoms, failing to produce fruit when temperatures remain above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Purdue University's website. Drought, disease and poor soil also limit tomato growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties and provide good growing conditions for the most abundant yields. [图片]Staking Methods Indeterminate varieties grow on sprawling, robust vines. Gardeners may choose to prune and stake these plants or let them grow on the ground. Pruned and staked varieties produce fewer, but larger tomatoes, and are more prone to sun scald. Those grown on the ground produce smaller tomatoes in larger quantities. They have more problems with soil diseases. In general, pruning and staking is the preferred practice for producing high-quality tomatoes.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月16日

Rats are a common pest outside homes and in gardens. They eat almost any food, including tomato fruit right off the plants. You can recognize the damage from rats by their tracks and droppings around the plants. To eliminate a rat infestation in your tomato garden, set up traps and lay down repellents that will keep the rats away. [图片]Step 1 Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby. Step 2 Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes. [图片]Step 3 Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall. Step 4 Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月16日

If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming. [图片]Getting Started A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit. When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material. Soil, Sun and Water A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant. Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain. [图片]Supporting and Feeding Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties. Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots. Possible Problems Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry. Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月16日

Growing strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) requires some care, but the freshly picked, sweet, juicy fruits are worth the effort. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and in USDA zones 9 and 10 they're usually grown as cool-season, annual plants. Three kinds of are available: June-bearing, everlasting and day neutral. June-bearing strawberries fruit in early summer, everlasting varieties fruit in spring, summer and fall, and day neutral varieties bear fruit throughout the growing season. All three types grow best in full-sun sites and well-drained soils. [图片]Soil, Light and Spacing For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants. Water and Fertilizer Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant. Mulch for Strawberries Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground. [图片]Strawberry Pruning General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished. Strawberry Renovation June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月16日

A hanging basket offers an alternative that takes advantage of vertical space when you lack yard space for a strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) patch. Compact day-neutral and alpine strawberry varieties work best for the smaller space in hanging baskets because they don't spread with runners like June-bearing strawberries. Try strawberry cultivars such as "Albion" or "Seascape," which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 and 4 through 9, respectively. [图片]Hanging baskets made from peat moss, coir or other natural materials work best for strawberry hanging baskets because they drain well and mimic the straw commonly used around strawberry plants. A 12-inch diameter basket can typically hold three to five strawberry plants, so you can increase or decrease the number of plants and holes according to the basket size and personal preference. You can place all three to five plants in the top of the basket, or you can plant two in the top and add the remaining ones around the outside of the basket to create a dramatic, cascading look that also gives each plant more room to grow. After deciding how many plants you want, cut evenly spaced, 2-inch diameter holes into the bottom half of the basket liner. Remove the basket liner from the basket frame and cut the holes with a simple kitchen knife. Planting the Strawberries Strawberries are typically sold as bare root plants that should go into the ground (or container) as soon as possible. If you chose to plant strawberries in holes along the outside of the basket, insert the root end of the plants through the holes and into the empty basket. The root crown should be even with the basket. Stuff straw, coir, or peat moss around the holes to hold the plants and soil in place. Fill the basket with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Instead of purchasing bagged potting mix, try your own blend, such as two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part finished compost and one part perlite. Leave about 2 inches of space to the basket edge so you can plant the remaining strawberry plants in the top. Mulch applied up to the top edge helps retain some moisture in the soil. [图片]Care Requirements Strawberries need full sunlight -- a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil in hanging baskets dries out much faster than ground soil. Daily watering might be required during the hottest, driest parts of the growing season to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Regular all-purpose fertilizer application every two weeks gives plants a boost during the flowering and fruiting stages, but is only necessary once monthly before flowering begins. Mix the fertilizer to approximately half strength for container strawberries. Mix a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer until the soil is evenly moist, using the fertilizer in place of the regular watering routine. Pinch off all flowers from day-neutral and alpine strawberries until July to delay the fruiting period. Overwintering Strawberry Baskets With proper care, strawberries grown in hanging baskets can be overwintered and produce more fruit the following year. Bring the entire basket indoors before the first frost, placing it in a protected location such as a garage or basement for the the winter. A garden shed or other unheated space works for overwintering, but spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of straw over the soil and around the crown of each plant to provide insulation. Burlap or old blankets wrapped around the container provide extra insulation to keep the soil warm. Water the plants when the soil feels dry, which is typically only necessary a few times each month. Strawberries can return outdoors in spring after all frost danger has passed. Replace the soil in the hanging baskets with fresh soil before rehanging them.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月15日

You can save and sow seeds from your favorite garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa), perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, but most are hybrid cultivars that won't come true from seed. On the other hand, purchased or saved seeds for wild strawberries (Fragaria spp., USDA zones 4 through 10), or open-pollinated garden types such as "Fresca" (USDA zones 3 through 8) will come true. Sellers also offer seeds of hybrid decorative garden varieties, including "Tarpan" (USDA zones 5 through 8), which are grown for their unusual pink flowers as well as their berries. [图片]Harvest Seeds To harvest strawberry seeds from their fruits, place four or five berries and 1 quart of water in the pitcher of a blender. After covering the blender, run it on its lowest setting for 10 seconds. Discard any seeds that float to the surface, as they won't be viable, and pour the mixture of water and strawberry pulp through a strainer that has mesh that's fine enough to retain the seeds. Hold the strainer over a sink or place a container beneath it to catch the watery pulp. When the seeds are completely drained, spread them on paper towels and allow them to dry thoroughly. Stratify Seeds Store saved or purchased strawberry seeds in a paper envelope inside a covered glass jar or zip-lock plastic bag in the refrigerator until one month before you intend to plant them. If you want to harvest strawberries the same year that you plant their seeds, you must sow the seeds indoors no later than the beginning of February. One month earlier than the planting date you choose, place the jar or bag containing the seeds in the freezer. After the month has passed, retrieve the container from the freezer, and leave it at room temperature overnight before you open it to plant the seeds. Plant Seeds Make sure the flowerpot or other container you use for sowing the seeds has drainage holes. After filling it to within 1/2 inch of its rim with damp, sterile seed-starting mix, sow the seeds about 1 inch apart over the surface of the mix. Press them into the surface and leave them uncovered, as they require light for germination. After topping the container with plastic wrap, place it under a grow light set to run for 12 to 14 hours per day or on a sunny -- preferably south-facing -- windowsill. If you keep the container at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds should germinate within one to six weeks. [图片]Grow Seedlings For the first month, feed the plants once every two weeks with a fertilizer recommended for seedlings, such as liquid kelp (0-0-1). Use only half the amount specified, which for the kelp would be 1 tablespoon of the concentrate per gallon of water. After one month, you can raise that to the full amount of 2 tablespoons per gallon every two weeks. About six weeks after the seedlings germinate, transplant them into individual 4-inch pots of potting soil. They should be ready to go outdoors after another six weeks. Place the pots in the shade at first, accustoming the plants gradually to more and more sun before you transplant them into the garden, setting them 2 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Work 1/4 cup of an all-purpose organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 into the planting hole for each seedling, water them well and mulch them with straw. To stay healthy, the strawberry plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月15日

Because seeds from grapevines (Vitis spp.) don't produce plants like the mother plants, the seeds usually are sown only by plant breeders in search of new grape varieties. You, too, can create your own cultivar in that way, though it may be inferior to its mother plant. Because the hardiness of grapevines ranges from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10, depending on the variety, select seeds from a type that flourishes in your climate. Some seedlings may produce fruits within two years while others could require up to seven years of growth before they begin producing. [图片]Acquire Seeds Harvest grape seeds from fruits that are fully ripe by slicing them in half lengthwise. Extract the seeds with the tip of a clean knife or your fingernails, being careful not to harm the seeds in the process. After dropping the seeds into a container of water, allow them to soak for 24 hours, skimming off and discarding all of them that don't sink. Prepare Seeds Drain the remaining seeds the following day, and place them inside a small container accompanied by a little damp peat moss. One tablespoon of peat moss should be adequate for up to 50 seeds. After capping the container, leave it in a 35- to 40-degrees Fahrenheit refrigerator for three months. The exposure to cold is called the stratification period. Sow Seeds At the end of that time period, open the container and plant the seeds at a depth about three times their length in a flat of damp and sterile seed-starting mix. Ensure the flat has bottom drainage holes, and space the seeds 1 1/2 inches apart from each other. Place the flat under a grow light that runs for 16 hours per day because grape seeds germinate best under long-day conditions, and keep the seed-starting mix damp. If the temperature remains at about 70 F during the day, preferably dropping to 60 F at night, some seeds may germinate, or sprout, within two weeks, though others may take two months or longer to sprout. [图片]Hasten Germination Reportedly, placing grape seeds in running water eliminates their stratification period requirement because the water washes away their germination inhibitors. Try that technique by inserting damp grape seeds in a small, muslin bag immediately after you harvest the seeds, and place that bag in running water, such as in a "babbling" brook. Tying the bag to a stake may be necessary to prevent the bag from being swept away. Under those conditions, the seeds can begin to make roots in eight days, after which they should be planted in the same way you would sow stratified seeds that have no roots. Don't leave the seeds in the water longer than 12 days, or their roots will begin to turn brown. Nourish Seedlings When the little grapevine seedlings have two sets of leaves, transplant each plant into its own 4-inch-diameter pot filled with a mixture that is 8 parts potting soil, 1 part pumice and 1 part sand. If you like, you can feed them with a plant food recommended for seedlings -- such as 2-3-1-- at one-half the fertilizer package's recommended strength. For the first month, mix 1 tablespoon of 2-3-1 fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Afterward, raise the fertilizer amount to 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Transplant each seedling into its own 1-gallon pot about six weeks after each seedling was moved into the 4-inch-diameter pots. The young grapevines should be ready to go outdoors when each plant has added six true leaves to its original two leaves, which are seed leaves. Accustom the vines to outdoor conditions by setting their pots in a shady position for a few hours every day at first and then taking them back indoors for the rest of each day. Gradually shift them into more sunlight. Plant Seedlings After your location's last average spring frost date, select a position for the grapevines, ensuring the site has full-sun exposure and moderately rich, well-drained soil and is beside an arbor, trellis or fence. Plant the seedlings about 8 to 10 feet apart, making each planting hole wider and deeper than its respective vine's root ball and situating the vines at the same soil depth at which they grew in their pots. Fill the remainder of the holes with the soil you removed to make the holes; ensure the soil around the plants is level with the surrounding ground. Cut each grapevine back to its lowest two leaf buds. Water the plants' soil well, and ensure that they receive at least 1 inch of water per week during their first year. Work a small amount of balanced fertilizer – about one-fourth of the regular rate – into the soil around each vine. For example, use 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, applying about 3/16 cup every other month from spring through autumn. Increase the fertilizer amount by one-fourth each spring until the grapevines receive the fertilizer package's full recommended amount per feeding – such as 3/4 cup of 5-5-5 organic fertilizer -- in their fourth year.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月15日

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Miss Chen

2017年11月15日

Grapes are considered to be fruit of the kings, a delight that only noblemen once enjoyed. Today, grapes are valued for their antioxidant juice, beneficial flesh and the grand architecture of the vines. Identifying grape vines will assist you in taking the proper steps in caring for your vine. Certain grape vines can withstand harsh winters; some do not. Correctly identifying your grape plants is important when gardening your vines. [图片]Step 1 Touch and review the leaves of the foliage on the vine. The ever-famous concord grape vine has a teardrop-shaped leaf that encompasses the size of six to seven grapes. The niagra grape vine has a leaf that is shaped like a maple leaf, but with jagged edges all the way around. The leaf is nearly the size of the bunch of grapes that hangs beside it. Note your findings; include the size, softness, and thickness of the leaf. Step 2 Determine the colors of the vine. The alden grape vine has yellowish-green foliage and a deep purple, almost blue-toned berry. The bokay grape vine consists of white to very pale green berries and a bright green leaf. Make notes on how purple, red, blue or white the flesh of the berry is. This factor is important because the hues within the grape itself are the only hues the vine will produce. Step 3 Open the grape to see if it is a seeding variety or not. The delight grape vine produces pale green grapes that are seedless. On the other hand, the steuben grape vine does have seeds within the berries. Record this distinction along with the size and color evaluations you have made. [图片]Step 4 Snap a picture of your vine when at first bloom, while it is full of berries, and during dormancy. Grape vines may appear to resemble one grape variety, such as the true purple-toned concord and steuben, and may fool the eye. However, the foliage of the steuben turns a strong red in the fall. This difference is valuable when determining the variety. Step 5 Cross reference your findings with a reputable grape information website like Ron J. Lombough's grape varieties. There are many grape species and hybrids; therefore a quality source will help you determine the exact cultivar of your vine.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月15日

Native to Florida and the southern portion of the U.S., muscadine grapes grow in small clusters. Most grape farmers use muscadine grapes in wines, jams, jellies and juices, but the fruit also offers a pleasing taste when eaten directly from the vine. Muscadine grapes prefer to grow in sunny, well-drained soils of USDA hardiness zones 6 through 9. Within one of these hardiness zones you can plant muscadine grapes successfully in your background landscape. [图片]Seed Germination Step 1 Remove muscadine grape seeds from the ripe fruit. Remove any attached pulp. Rinse with lukewarm water. Lay the seeds on a paper plate to dry, undisturbed for 24 hours. Step 2 Place damp peat moss into a plastic sandwich until it is half full. Drop the muscadine grape seeds into the baggie and seal it. Place the baggie in the refrigerator for three months. Step 3 Pour sterile potting soil into 4-inch pots until they are three-fourths full. Remove the muscadine grape seeds from the refrigerator after the three-month stratification period. Push two to three seeds ¼ of an inch into the soil of each pot. [图片]Step 4 Mist the soil with lukewarm water. Set the pots on a tray. Place the tray in an area that receives bright, indirect light. Maintain a temperature of approximately 75 degrees F during the germination process, which usually begins within two to three weeks. Step 5 Maintain bright light and moist soil conditions as the muscadine grape seedlings continue to grow. Transplant the seedlings into 6-inch pots when they outgrow the 4-inch pots. Transplant the seedlings outdoors after a full year of growth. Transplanting Outdoors Step 1 Dig holes large enough to accommodate the root balls of the muscadine grape seedlings. The leaves of the plants should remain above the soil line when positioned in the holes. Space the holes 20 feet apart. Step 2 Keep the soil moist at a 1-inch depth throughout the growing season. After the first year of growth, muscadine grapes will only require supplemental watering during drought. Step 3 Secure each of the muscadine grape plants with flexible cording attached to a stake. Set up a trellis behind each of the stakes to guide the muscadine grape plants upward as they grow.

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