动态第459页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

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Excessive amounts of blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) on a bush, called over-cropping, are typically smaller berries of poorer quality. To prevent this, prune canes to reduce the number of berry-producing buds. Fruit buds grow on new shoots one year before berries appear. Annual, moderate pruning of blueberry bushes will result in fewer canes but larger berries and greater, more consistent yields. [图片]Species to Prune Blueberries like well-drained, acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 to 5.5. The most widely grown species, highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), grow from 6 to 12 feet tall in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3a through 8b. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) grow 6 to 8 feet tall in USDA zones 7a through 9B. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium augustifoliam) grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall in USDA zones 2a to 6b. When to Prune Prune blueberries in late winter to early spring after the chance of freezing weather has passed. If you delay pruning a bush for a year or more then prune it heavily, canes maturing simultaneously will yield fewer berries. Pruning after harvesting berries will decrease long-term yield and make a bush susceptible to winter injury. Tools to Use Use hand-pruning shears to remove 1-year-old wood and a pruning lopper or hand saw to remove 2- to 3-year-old wood. Disinfect pruning tools before use by soaking them for five minutes in 1 part household bleach to 3 parts water and let air dry. [图片]Pruning Young Bushes Allowing young bushes to produce berries can stunt their growth, leading to several years of substantially lower harvests. To prevent this, prune the round, plump fruit buds 2 to 3 inches from the tips of the shoots. Prune to shape an upright plant that lets sunlight into the interior. Remove twisted and low-growing canes at the start of the third year. Prune low-growing weak shoots from the bottom of young bushes. Since they'll be shaded by vigorous shoots above them, they won't be productive. Thicker, higher shoots will bloom later and bear larger berries. Pruning young, vigorous shoots to 4 to 6 inches below the top of the bush will stimulate side branches, increasing berry yields. If a bush grew more than two new canes the previous year, prune all but the two most vigorous new canes at the level of the crown. Continue this light pruning until the bush reaches full maturity at about six years. Pruning Mature Bushes Blueberry canes give smaller yields and poorer quality berries after they're fully mature. Eight-year-old canes need more leaves to support their berries. Since they have usually grown numerous branches, their new shoots on which berries grow are typically weak and thin. Prune one or two of the largest canes, including unproductive canes larger than 1 inch thick. Allow the same number of new canes to grow as replacements. If a bush contains a mix of different-aged canes, then you'll lose a minimal amount of berries by removing 8-year-old canes each year. Seven-year-old canes will replace pruned 8-year-old canes. You can prune up to 20 percent of a bush without affecting its yield. There will be fewer, larger berries, but eventually the entire crown will be renewed. Since root suckers bear more berries than stump suckers on highbush cultivars, prune their old canes to the ground. Prune old canes of rabbiteye cultivars to 6 to 12 inches from the ground, forcing new, berry-producing canes to grow from their stumps. To rejuvenate a declining bush, prune diseased, insect-infested and dead canes, then weak canes shaded by large canes. Prune older canes throughout the canopy to let in more light and encourage new canes to grow. If the bush no longer produces berries, prune all canes to renew growth.

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Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) need soil that is acidic -- in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 -- and rich in organic matter, at least six hours of full-sun exposure per day and 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Preparing soil prior to planting and maintaining it on a regular basis will help keep blueberry production at optimal levels. Reducing soil's acidity is a process that can take several years, and keeping it acidic is necessary. Blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, depending on their variety. [图片]Test the Soil Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference. Incorporate Elemental Sulphur The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. [图片]Retest the Soil Before Planting Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart. Maintain the Soil Carefully Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.

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When deciding a new plant to grow in Georgia, a blueberry bush is a GREAT choice. The are easy to maintain, don't have thorns and won't spread like crazy growing all over the place. [图片]Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer! If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia! So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you. Step 1 Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them. Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck. Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap. When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries. [图片]Step 2 Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination. For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts. Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot. You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide. To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil. Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other. Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round. I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds. Step 3 Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth. You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net. To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!

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Blueberry plants are simple fruits to for almost anyone to grow. They grow in a variety of regions and will regrow year after year. A single blueberry plant can produce up to eight bushels of blueberries in a single growing season. Blueberries grow best in areas with acidic soil, so if your region has an abundance of acidity, you are in an even more ideal position to grow blueberries at home. [图片]Step 1 Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes. Step 2 Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day. Step 3 Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit. Step 4 Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots. [图片]Step 5 Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground. Step 6 Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant. Step 7 Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.

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There are good reasons gardeners typically choose to grow blueberries from cuttings or nursery shrubs -- they take less time to produce blueberries and reproduce their parents' traits accurately. For the patient gardener, though, growing blueberry shrubs from seed can be an adventure with surprising results. Choose the right type of blueberry and give it enough sun and acidic soil and you might find your name on a new variety. [图片]Blueberry Basics Match the type of blueberry you plant to the conditions in your garden. Wild lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7 and plants demand between 1,000 and 1,200 chilling hours -- time below 45 degrees Fahrenheit -- for annual bloom and berry production. Lowbush blueberries bloom in May and June on 2-foot tall shrubs that form colonies. Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) bushes grow as tall as 15 feet. Northern highbush plants typically grow from USDA zones 3 through 7 and need 800 to 1,000 chilling hours annually. Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid) plants are typically hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10, and require only 150 to 800 chilling hours a year. All blueberries thrive in full sun in a moist, but well-drained, sandy loam with an acidic pH of 5.5. Romancing the Seed Most blueberries do not self-pollinate -- they need a nearby mate with similar genetic qualities to fertilize their flowers. This means blueberries are an unpredictable lot whose offspring seldom duplicate either parent. For this reason, it's usually better to purchase seeds collected by plant societies that contain known cultivars, but some prefer to harvest their own hybrids in the fall. Hold fruit in the refrigerator for several days before maceration and repeated rinsing with water. Remove floating pulp and sterile seeds with a paper towel -- viable seeds sink to the bottom. Scarify seeds by placing them in damp sphagnum moss and filing them in the freezer or fridge for 90 days – that's over 2,000 chilling hours. Keep seeds refrigerated until planting time. [图片]Making a Home After scarifying seeds in the fridge, plant blueberry seeds outdoors in the fall in warm climates and in spring in the North. For better cultural control, plant them in dampened Sphagnum peat moss in trays. Wherever you plant the seeds, cover then with only 1/4 inch of soil and keep the area continually moist. Blueberries can take six to eight weeks to germinate. Hybrid highbush seeds germinate more unreliably and might take longer than their wild lowbush cousins -- so don't give up until 12 weeks have passed. Sprouting plants need sunny, warm conditions. Moving Day Plants will only grow 5 to 6 inches in their first year, so Northern gardeners might want to keep their plants in a sunny window during their first winter. Keep indoor trays on sunny windowsills with a florescent light mounted 14 inches above each tray to provide supplemental light. You won't know what combination of traits your plant has until it begins blooming and bearing after two or more years of growth.

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Growing grapes is a wonderful hobby for home gardeners and wine lovers. When growing grapes, gardeners take advantage of some strategic companion planting guidelines to ensure that their grapevines grow vigorously and thrive. [图片]Grape Growing Grapes require full sun, warm-to-moderate temperatures, plenty of water and quick-draining soil. Companion Planting In any companion planting situation, choose plants that have similar requirements. This makes every plant's chances of success better. Grape Companions Grapes do very well when planted with hyssop, basil, beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas and blackberries. Clover increases the fertility of the soil for grapes. Pest-Repelling Plants Some plants make good companions to grapes just because of their pest-repelling qualities. Because grapes naturally draw pests, planting garlic, chives, rosemary, tansy and mint around the borders of the vineyard is a good idea. Considerations Cold temperatures and frost will damage grapevines, regardless of companion planting. [图片]Warning Never plant grapes with cabbage or radishes.

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The hardy and versatile Concord grape is one of the most popular grapes to grow in US gardens. You can eat them fresh off the vine, or make jams, jellies or wine with them, and they are commercially used to make grape juice. They better tolerate the colder weather of the northern states and are more disease resistant than some other varieties. [图片]Step 1 Mulch your vines generously each spring and keep them free of weeds. Step 2 Water grape vines infrequently, but heavily, as they have deep root systems. Don't water when the soil is moist, but when it begins to dry out. Step 3 Cut the vines back in the first year to two or three strong buds, each of which will grow into a cane. Several shoots and an abundance of leaves will grow, which will encourage the vine to develop a strong root system. In the second year, remove all but two of the strongest canes from each vine, and allow three to four shoots to grow from each. [图片]Step 4 Tie the canes to a four- or five-foot tall stake in the first year. You'll need to build a trellis to support them in the following year, as grape vines don't stand up well on their own and are prone to disease when they grow on the ground. The simplest trellis, according to the University of Minnesota (see references), is the Kniffen system: Set posts in the ground on either side of the vine, between 16 and 24 feet apart. Stretch two wires horizontally between these posts. The first should be 36 inches above the ground, and the second 60 inches. Support the vine by keeping it tied to the stake, and then to the wires as it grows. Step 5 Remove flowers when they form for the first two years--the vines are not strong enough to bear fruit. You can also thin the vines by removing some of the flower clusters in the following years. Step 6 Prune during the dormant season, beginning in the third year. Pruning prevents the vine from becoming too dense, and also allows you to control the quantity of grapes. When too many grapes develop, they will be small and may not ripen. When branches reach the wires of the trellis, either remove them or cut them back to two buds. Step 7 Concord grapes are ready for harvest some time between Labor Day and the first frost. When you think they are ready, taste them. If they are sweet and flavorful, and no longer tart or sour, the grapes are ready to pick.

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Grapes can be grown for many end products, including jam, jelly, juice, wine and fresh eating. They can be grown in many climates, depending on the variety. Each variety has assets and weaknesses and you should do some research before choosing which variety to plant. An extension educator or nursery employee can help you make a decision. Locally owned nurseries usually carry varieties that are suited to the local climate, so your biggest decision is finding one that will suit your needs. [图片]Step 1 Choose a site for planting the grapes. The site should provide full sunlight and high temperatures, so avoid north-facing slopes, shaded areas and low-lying areas. The soil should be well-drained, but grapes can thrive in a variety of soil types. Step 2 Cut off all the canes except the most vigorous one. Step 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending the roots, as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. The vines should be planted as deep as they were planted in the nursery. Vines should be planted six to eight feet apart. [图片]Step 4 Cover the roots completely with soil, and fill the hole to the same level the soil was in the nursery. Step 5 Cut the one remaining cane back so only two strong buds remain. Step 6 Train the strongest cane onto a trellis or strong pole that is about five feet tall. Step 7 Cut back any suckers that appear at the base of the plant. The March after planting, cut back the weaker cane. If neither cane is three feet tall, cut both canes back, leaving two buds to sprout. Step 8 Apply nitrogen two weeks after planting at a rate of one pound of 10-6-4 fertilizer per plant. Reapply at the same rate early every spring before new growth begins. Step 9 Train plants to grow vertically on a stake, then horizontally on wires stretched between posts, or on a trellis. Use flexible ties, such as cotton strips, to loosely attach the vines to the wires or trellis. If using two wires, prune all growth between the wires, so the only horizontal growth is along those two wires. Step 10 Train tender varieties, or those that are not cold-hardy, to grow similar to cold-hardy varieties, but prune them to one strong trunk that you will remove from the trellis every fall. Step 11 Bend the trunk down and cover with six to eight inches of soil or mulch. Do this for tender varieties in the fall after foliage has dropped. Step 12 Uncover the grapevines in early spring, mid-April in colder climates, and tie them back onto the support. Step 13 Pick the grapes when they are ripe. Determine ripeness by taste more than color because the color will change long before the grapes are ready for harvest. They will not continue to ripen once picked.

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Pruning grape vines produces a healthy fruit harvest. If you do not prune the grape vines, they will grow too much foliage and not produce fruit. Grape vines are mature when they are at least 3 years of age. Prune your grape vines in the winter months to encourage new growth in the spring. Once you prune the grape vines, you can train them to grow on arbors or trellises so that they do not take over your yard or garden. [图片]Step 1 Remove leaves on the ground around the grape vine. This will prevent insects and birds from invading the grape vines and keep the vines healthy. Step 2 Prune away any tangled vines. The tangled vines will prevent the grape vine from producing grapes. Place the tangled vines in a compost bin or trash bag. Step 3 Remove shoots growing between the trellis wires. This will encourage the vines to continue to grow on the wires. Cut these shoots at the base near the main stem. Step 4 Cut away secondary shoots, also known as suckers, from the main cane's base. The suckers take energy away from the grape vine. [图片]Step 5 Prune the canes to leave four on each side of the vine. Keep two young canes on each side that appear shiny and smooth to keep the grapevine producing fruit. Remove older canes when they begin to crack and peel. Step 6 Prune the spurs on the main canes. Leave two to three of the bud spurs. Prune them by spacing them apart 4 to 6 inches.