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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
They say that wherever rosemary thrives in the garden, a woman is in charge of the household. Whether or not this is true, if you cook, you will be glad to have a rosemary shrub (Rosmarinus officinalis), with its pungent needle-like leaves so useful in the kitchen. Planted correctly, few herbs are less demanding. Established rosemary growing outside needs little supplemental watering. [图片]Rosemary in the Garden Rosemary hails from southern Europe and western Asia where it grows wild in sandy soils and rocky scrub. The Mediterranean climate boasts warm summers and mild, dry winters, and these are the growing conditions the evergreen herb prefers. The bush grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10 where it can grow to 6 feet tall with a 4- to 5-foot spread. Rosemary is drought-tolerant, and established garden specimens generally get all the water they need from rainfall. Watering Rosemary You'll probably need to provide supplemental water to a rosemary plant in desert climates or in times of drought. Newly transplanted rosemary plants also need watering until they establish strong root systems. In these cases, the key is to provide occasional deep waterings that favor deep root growth rather than surface watering that encourages shallow roots. Don't water on a regular schedule. Instead, let the dryness of the soil tell you when it's time to water. Water the plant when the top few inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Excellent Drainage Needed When it comes to rosemary, drainage is as important, if not more important, than correct watering. Your rosemary plant's worst nightmare is to be stuck in wet, heavy soil. If this comes to pass, the shrub won't survive long. Rosemary does not tolerate having soggy soil around its roots and it may get root rot. Its native soil is sandy or rocky, and poor to moderately fertile, but the shrub grows well in any soil with excellent drainage. Rosemary also needs at least six hours a day of direct sun to thrive, but partial shade won't be fatal. [图片]Container-Grown Rosemary If you grow rosemary in containers, outside or inside, you need to water the plants. But first, make sure the plant has proper drainage. Check for drain holes in the bottom of the pot, then put in a 1-inch layer of gravel. Grow the rosemary in an even mix of sterilized soil, peat moss and perlite. Water the plant thoroughly whenever the top few inches of soil are dry. Take care not to overwater a potted rosemary because this encourages root rot. For outdoor plants, make sure the container is sufficiently large that six hours of direct sun won't dry it out.
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2017年11月20日
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Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) can resist many pest and disease problems, but plants weakened or stressed may fall prey to problems. The shrub grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also thrives as a potted plant in any climate. Soil or site conditions are common problems, although pests and fungus can also kill rosemary. It can be difficult or even impossible to save rosemary once it begins to die, but quick diagnosis and treatment sometimes prove successful. [图片]Winter Kill Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected. Water Stress Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation. [图片]Fungal Disease Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover. Leaf and Stem Pests Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems. Chemical Damage Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt. Nutritional Deficiencies Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
Although some plants take well to division, or splitting, woody herbs such as rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis cvs.) are propagated best with the layering technique. When layering, simply allow new plants to spring up alongside the "mother" plant until they are sturdy enough for you to "cut their cords" and move them to new locations. [图片]Step 1 Choose one or two outer stems from the main rosemary plant, ensuring the stems look healthy and are tall. Spring is the best time to start this process, when the stems are most flexible and have plenty of time to root. If you want to layer more than one stem, then choose stems on each side of the main plant, and ensure each stem has room to grow. Step 2 Mix one handful of compost and one handful of bonemeal with the top 4 to 6 inches of soil on each side of the rosemary plant. Each amended area should be a rectangular patch about 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, extending outward from the base of your selected stems. Step 3 Dig a narrow trench about 2 inches deep in the center of the 12-inch-long section of amended soil. You can also judge the length for the trench by the general height of the stem that will lay in it, minus about 2 inches of the stem's leafy end. [图片]Step 4 Strip a selected rosemary stem of most of its needlelike leaves, keeping the leaves on about 2 inches of the stem's tip. Use a small, sharp knife to slice the underside of the stem gently in several places, and dust the underside with hormone rooting powder. Disinfect the knife before and after its use by either spraying it with a household disinfectant or soaking its blade for five minutes in a solution that is one part bleach to three parts water. Air-dry the disinfected knife or rinse it with clean water and dry it with a clean cloth. Step 5 Bend the stem gently down so that it lays flat against the bottom of the shallow trench. Do not press the last 2 inches of the stem's tip into the soil. That leafy part will remain above-ground. Use a landscape peg or U-shaped flexible wire at the midpoint of the stem to ensure the underside of the stem remains in contact with the ground. Step 6 Fill the rest of the trench with the amended soil so that most of the stem is buried but its leafy end sticks above the soil. Step 7 Repeat the process with each stem you want to layer to create a new plant. If you have several mature rosemary plants that you want to propagate, then repeat the process for the layering technique with them. Step 8 Water the soil of the buried stems on a regular basis until the stems form rootlets. Although rosemary plants usually don't do well in moist soil, the baby plants will. Step 9 Check for rootlets after several weeks by gently digging around the buried stems. It can take several months for the rosemary layering technique literally to take root. So be patient. Step 10 Separate the young, well-established plants from their mother rosemary plant by slicing off the young plants near the base of the mature plant. Step 11 Replant each young rosemary plant in its own container that has bottom drainage holes and is filled with potting soil. Alternatively, plant the young rosemary plants in a sunny place in your garden. When setting the young plants into containers or a garden bed, plant them at the same soil depth at which they previously grew. That depth usually is marked by a definite soil line on a plant's stem.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape. [图片]Not Enough Water Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well. If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip. Over-Watering and Fungus A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease. If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant. [图片]Pest Problems A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant. Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed. Preventing Problems Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed. If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer. Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is generally easy to grow, but sometimes it can have problems. To track down the cause of yellowing leaves on a rosemary plant, check which leaves are yellow. If only some of the leaves are yellow, the problem may be different than if all are yellow. Also check if the leaves are completely yellow or if they have a speckled appearance, which may provide another clue. Proper care of your rosemary plant may be able to save it. If not, knowing what the problem was can help you to have a healthy plant next time. [图片]Nutrient Deficiency A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese. If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing. What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline. Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get. Root Rot and Water Problems While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot. [图片]Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time. Spider Mites If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems. Improper Lighting Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off. To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for. [图片]Starting from a Cutting The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots. Starting by Layering Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much. [图片]Starting From Seed Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting. Growing Conditions Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
Basil and tomatoes, both warm-weather plants that do well in containers, not only can be planted in the same pots, but should be; they are natural companions, having similar requirements for light, soil, temperature and water. Basil will also improve the growth and flavor of tomatoes, and may help to repel harmful pests. You can grow your basil and tomatoes in containers or hanging baskets. They will reward your efforts by being both attractive to look at and delicious to eat. [图片]Planting and Care Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal. Basil Varieties If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads. Tomato Varieties For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
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2017年11月18日
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Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are tropical perennials that are typically grown as annuals. Not counting the germination of seeds, tomatoes go through roughly four stages of growth: vegetative growth as the seedlings develop, first flowering, first setting of tomatoes and growth of tomatoes until they're ripe and ready for harvest. The duration of these stages vary, depending on the tomato cultivar and the weather. [图片]Counting the Days Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F. Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer. The Crux Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes. Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate. [图片]Indeterminate Tomatoes Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature. Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem. Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest: 'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days. 'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days. 'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days. 'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days. Determinate Tomatoes Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period. Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest: 'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days. 'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days. 'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days. 'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days. Growing Tomatoes Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
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