动态第453页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年11月23日

[图片]口红花着生小灌木或蔓性植物，一般茎株多纤细状。枝条下垂，长可达30-100厘米。叶卵形对生，稍带肉质，长4.5厘米，宽3厘米，叶面浓绿色，叶背浅绿色。花序多腋生或顶生，花萼筒状，暗紫色被绒毛，花冠筒状鲜红色，从花萼中伸出，宛如从筒中旋出的“口红”，管状2唇裂，雄蕊4，长伸至花冠处，子房长型2室。果实含多数种子。在室温适宜的情况下，口红花可在12月至来年2月间开花。 [图片]口红花的施肥方法口红花的施肥频次口红花需肥量较大，不同生长时期养分配比各有侧重，施肥量与施肥间隔需综合考虑花卉长势及温度、湿度等环境因子。那多久施一次肥呢？口红花生长茂盛期，约10天至15天施一次肥液，盆土保持湿润状况，盆内勿积水，防止引起烂根。口红花秋季秋季该怎么施肥秋季气温逐渐降低，水量和施肥量也随之减少。进入冬季后，口红花生长减缓，需肥量也很少，少施肥后者不施肥，盆土保持干燥。口红花的花期集中在12月至翌年2月，此时期尤其要注意光照时长与磷肥的施用。掌握口红花的需肥规律其实施肥不能完全按照计划来，要根据植株的情况，判断口红花确实哪种微量元素，因需施肥。通常情况下，老叶或成熟部位发病或者生长不良，可能是因为氮、钾、镁等移动性好的元素缺失引起的；新叶或茎尖发病，可能是因为缺乏铁、钙、锌等元素；还有一种情况是综合判断，若叶片的边缘及叶脉处出现失绿的现象，是缺少镁和钾。因此，在营养元素补施时，最好不要只施用单一元素，要结合生产品种的需肥特性及种植经验综合考虑，最终给出较为全面的诊断，进而补施。

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

[图片]平安树常绿乔木，高约15米，叶、枝及树皮干时几不具芳香气。枝条及小枝褐色，叶片硕大，表面亮绿色，有金属光泽，离基三出脉，网脉两面明显。花期6月至7月，果期8-9月。整体形态圆柱形，无毛。叶对生或近对生，卵圆形至长圆状卵圆形，长8-11(14)厘米，宽4-5.5(9)厘米，先端锐尖，基部圆形，革质，上面鲜时绿色，干时灰绿色，光亮，下面近同色，晦暗，两面无毛，具离基三出脉，侧脉自叶基约1厘米处生出，近叶片3/4处渐消失或不明显网结，有时近叶缘一侧各有一条附加的侧脉，细脉两面明显，呈浅蜂巢状网结；叶柄长约1.5厘米，腹凹背凸，红褐色或褐色。花未见。果卵球形，长约14毫米，宽10毫米；果托杯状，边缘有短圆齿，无毛，果梗长约1厘米，无毛。果期8-9月。叶子形态兰屿肉桂为常绿小乔木，树形端庄，树皮黄褐色，株高可达10米至15米，小枝黄绿色，光滑无茸毛。叶片对生或近对生，卵形或卵状长椭圆形，先端尖，厚革质。叶片硕大，长10厘米至22厘米，宽5厘米至8厘米，表面亮绿色，有金属光泽，背面灰绿色，离基三出脉明显，上凹下凸，侧脉自叶基约1厘米处伸出，有时近叶缘一侧各有一条小脉，网脉两面明显，呈浅蜂窝状。新叶嫩绿，叶柄长约1.5厘米，红褐色至褐色。果实形态果卵球形，长约1.4厘米，径1厘米。果托杯状，边缘有短圆齿，无毛。无花无果。果梗长约1厘米，无毛。它既是优美的盆栽观叶植物，又是非常漂亮的园景树。 [图片]平安树的施肥方法平安树因为叶子很大，植株生长丰满，需要很大的养分，所以所需要的施肥量也要很大。平安树施什么肥按季节的不同，在春末到初秋季节要进行追肥，每个月要施一次饼肥水，或者是肥矾水都可以。等到深秋以后要施磷钾肥。平安树施肥的季节平安树施肥要按季节的不同而施不同的肥料，施肥的季节，应该在春末一直持续到初秋时节，每个月都要施肥。第二阶段是在深秋以后，只需施两次肥，等到入冬以后停止施肥。平安树施肥的频率平安树施肥的频率不需要太高，在第一阶段施肥期间只需一个月施一次即可，第二阶段只需要施两次肥料即可平安树的基肥平安树在入冬以后或者是春季发芽初，都要进行基肥，不可间断，在4月到5月中要按量施复合肥。8月的时候再施加一次复合肥。

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

The juicy, lush flavor and rampant, easy-care growth makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) a garden favorite. While humans enjoy the sweet, tart flavor of the fruits, caterpillars are also attracted to the tomato plants, requiring quick action to remove the hungry invaders. Although the tomato plants will keep producing fruits, reducing the number of caterpillars on the plants will increase the harvest. Removal methods range from hand-picking to spraying insecticides. [图片]About Tomato Plants Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather. The Caterpillars Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes. The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long. The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long. [图片]The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato. Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched. Non-Insecticide Controls Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water. Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem. Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season. Less Toxic Insecticides In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars. Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution. Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

On their way to a bumper crop and the envy of all who pass, your tomato plants have more than jealous neighbors as admirers. Even the healthiest tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) attract tiny white insects intent stealing their nutritious sap. The bugs' presence is unmistakeable: At the slightest disturbance, they swarm from the leaves in clouds. Fortunately, toxic chemicals aren't required to send them packing. [图片]Meet the Whiteflies Like the pushiest of relatives, whiteflies make themselves completely at home. They come for dinner, make a mess and stay to raise their families. They resist eviction by chemical insecticide and may not leave until they've drained all the sap the plants have to offer. Three kinds of whiteflies – greenhouse, sweet potato and bandedwing -- target tomatoes, but greenhouse whiteflies are by far the nastiest. Measuring about 1/16 inch long, they feed in groups and lay eggs on the backs of the leaves. By transmitting the tomato infectious chlorosis virus, greenhouse whiteflies are capable of seriously damaging an entire tomato crop. Whiteflies also excrete undigested sap as sticky, transparent honeydew. Honeydew attracts sooty mold spores capable of burying the leaves beneath layers of black fungus. Basic Whitefly Control Inspect the tomatoes daily and prune lightly infested leaves to remove larvae and eggs. Use clean, sharp stem cutters disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol, and dispose of the leaves in sealed plastic bags. Rinse the adult whiteflies from the plants with a strong spray of hose water that reaches the backs of the leaves. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program reports weekly use of this syringing technique controls whiteflies at least as well as chemical insecticides. If rinsing fails, suction adults off with a battery-operated vacuum early in the morning while they're lethargic. Freeze the dust cup overnight before emptying its contents into a sealed plastic bag and placing it in the trash. [图片]Biological Weapons A host of beneficial bugs, including pirate bugs, lacewings and ladybugs, prey on whiteflies. To lure them to your tomato patch, layer several shallow dishes with pebbles partially submerged in water and place them around the plants. The predators come to drink and remain to eat. Keep the friendly bugs even happier by mixing some pollen-or nectar-producing herbs such as annual dill (Anethum graveolens) or perennial fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, in with your tomatoes. Off Them With Oil A persistent whitefly problem calls for organic, ready-to-use neem oil. Lethal to the whiteflies and eggs when wet, it's harmless to beneficial insects once dry. Water the tomatoes well and spray until until all their surfaces drip with the oil, making sure to coat the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly, or at the label's recommended rate, until the plants are whitefly free. Wear protective clothing, waterproof gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask, and always heed the label's precautions when working with the oil.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

Tomato plants are now a staple in the home garden. Tomatoes are high in Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. Lycopene helps ward off many cancers. [图片]Origin Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru. Dispersion Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant. Fact The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits. [图片]History in America Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America. Culture The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

Though tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are grown for their fruit, not their foliage, yellowing leaves should cause concern. Usually grown as annuals, tomato plants are susceptible to many diseases. Some harm only leaves, but others threaten the fruit. Causes vary, but symptoms may look and act the same. Proper care, good maintenance and quick intervention can help keep leaves green and tomatoes productive. [图片]Leaf Spot Diseases Fungal leaf spots often cause yellowing tomato leaves. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) starts with small, tan-centered, dark spots. The scattered spots grow and yellow, starting with the lowest, oldest leaves and working up. Fruits are unaffected. Early blight disease (Alternaria solani), also known as alternaria leaf spot, moves the same way with dark, target-shaped spots encircled in yellow. The yellow part grows until entire leaves drop, leaving fruit overexposed to the sun. These diseases often strike together and quicken once fruit sets. Treat with ready-to-use liquid copper fungicide. Start two weeks before diseases normally affect your garden or as soon as symptoms arise. Spray all surfaces thoroughly, and repeat every seven to 10 days. Wear protective clothing and goggles when you spray. Bacterial Diseases Easily mistaken for fungal leaf spots, bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) starts with small, greasy lesions -- without tan centers -- encircled by yellow halos that grow together. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) looks and acts similarly. Both affect tomato fruit and overwinter in plant debris. Wet foliage hastens the progress of these diseases. Treat with liquid copper fungicide as with leaf spots. Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis) starts with brown leaf margins lined with yellow and then green leaf centers. It moves up one side of the plant. The yellow leaves stay attached and leaf stems stay green. Plants affected with bacterial canker should be pulled up and destroyed. Viral Diseases Tomato plants are affected by many different viral diseases that vary throughout the country. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, ring spots and yellow-green mosaic patterns that mar foliage and fruits. Viruses are spread by piercing and sucking insects, such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers. While viruses can't be cured, controlling the insects limits the spread to other plants. A blast of water from a hose may dislodge these invaders, and stragglers treated with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Spray plant surfaces thoroughly because the soap must cover the insects to be effective. Repeat weekly or every other week, until the insects are gone. [图片]Soil-Borne Wilts Fungal diseases in the soil also cause yellow leaves. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum lycopersici) affects one side of the plant or leaf, starting first with older, bottom leaves, as leaf spots do. As the plant's vascular system becomes plugged, the leaves yellow, brown and drop. Growth is stunted and fruit doesn't set. Cut stems show brown staining in the vascular pathways near the soil. Verticillium wilts (Verticillium spp.) are similar, but don't stick to one side. The plant's leaves rapidly yellow. If wilt disease is present, no fungicide will help. Avoid planting tomatoes or any related plants in that area for at least four years. Prevention and Sanitation Tomato diseases are difficult to treat and eradicate once they take hold. Prevention is an easier route. Plant disease-resistant varieties, and plant tomatoes in a different part of the garden each year. Give tomatoes good air circulation and keep soil moist, but never soggy. Improper watering causes nutritional deficiencies that add to your yellowing leaves. Water in the mornings, so the leaves are dry by night. Remove diseased plants, leaves and plant parts from the garden as soon as symptoms hit. Dispose of the leaves -- don't compost them -- and always clean all tomato debris from the garden at year's end. Strong, healthy tomatoes resist diseases and insect pests, leaving attractive foliage and fruit for your table.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月23日

We're all familiar with regular tomatoes, but what's an heirloom? If you've noticed strange-looking tomatoes--those with different colors and shapes--then you've seen an heirloom. Heirlooms have recently come into vogue among tomato lovers. [图片]Regular vs Heirloom Hybrid (normal) tomatoes are selected for their yield, resistance to diseases and shelf life. Heirlooms are prized for their diversity of color, shape and flavor and come from plant seeds that are at least 50 years old. Definition The consensus for heirloom status is that the cultivar (variety) must be at least 50 years old. Many heirloom cultivars have been passed down through several generations of a family. History The renewed interest in heirlooms started in the 1970s. The term refers to varieties that were often unique and limited to only a few gardens. [图片]Seed Diversity In industrial agriculture, only a few varieties of a given food crop are grown due to the efficiencies that come with uniformity. Partisans of heirlooms view themselves as champions of world food diversity. Which Are Better? There is no clear-cut winner here; however, everyone agrees that tomatoes are best eaten right off the vine. Heirlooms have commanded premium prices, but some attribute this to snob appeal.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月22日

Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are tender plants that can't withstand a heavy frost, but slightly frosted plants may recover. Usually grown as annual plants, tomatoes can grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. At 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower temperatures, tomato plants' leaves, stems and fruits suffer damage, but you can help save the plants by protecting them from further frosts. [图片]Saving Young Plants [图片]Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year. Rescuing Mature Plants [图片]You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Protecting Them from Frosts [图片]If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays. Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost [图片]The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月22日

You can plant more tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) in a garden when you support them with stakes or wire cages than if you let them sprawl on the ground. Because tomatoes require a soil temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit to plant from seed, most gardeners transplant nursery seedlings. How far apart you space plants also depends on the type of tomato, because some varieties need more space. [图片]Spacing and Tomato Varieties Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Spacing Staked Tomatoes If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Spacing Caged Tomatoes Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows. [图片]Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月22日

Though generally grown as warm-season annuals, prized for their fast growth and juicy, sweet fruit, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are technically frost-tender perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Wilting in a tomato plant can be a symptom of several problems. Perk up your droopy tomatoes so you can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labor. [图片]Water, Water, Everywhere Tomatoes are 90 percent water. Thus, dehydration can lead to significant fruit loss and stunted growth. If you notice a plant wilting and the soil is dry, drought stress is likely the chief culprit. Tomatoes typically need watering once every four days in light, sandy soil and once a week if grown in heavier soil. When watering tomatoes, always use enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Deep watering encourages the plant to extend its roots farther into the soil, increasing plant vigor and lowering risks of future drought stress. To conserve soil moisture, consider spreading mulch around the base of the plants, but keep mulch from touching the stems. Sprinkle Some Salt It may sound unconventional, but salt may do the trick. If you notice wilting, stunted leaf development and yellowing, the tomatoes may be suffering from a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salt is a naturally rich source of magnesium and may boost tomato growth and make the plant greener and more lush. Mix a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of tap water, pour it into a spray bottle and mist the solution onto the tomato plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant evenly. Check for Pests Tomato plants occasionally suffer from pest infestations, and this may cause plant stress, wilting, leaf drop and fruit loss. Common tomato pests that cause wilted foliage include aphids and whiteflies, which suck on the plant's juices. Aphids appear as little green, black, red or brown spots on the plant. Whiteflies, as their name implies, are tiny flies with a dusty white appearance that tend to group on the underside of leaves. Both pests can be managed by spraying tomato plants with a strong blast of water from a backyard garden hose. This dislodges and kills pests and can keep pest populations at a level low enough that they don't cause lasting harm to the tomatoes. [图片]Or, try an insecticidal soap. Make your own at home by mixing 5 tablespoons of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water. Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant. The solution kills aphids and whiteflies on contact. Repeat once a week as needed. Fight Fungus Inspect the wilted foliage. If you see brown or black growths on the leaves, the tomatoes may be suffering from a fungal infection. Such problems are best controlled and prevented with proper sanitation. Wipe a pair of pruning shears with rubbing alcohol to sterilize it, then snip off any affected stems and leaves that have mold or other fungal growths. Once you remove diseased plant parts, prevent future disease by monitoring your tomato care practices. Change your watering practices to ensure you're only watering at the base of each tomato plant, since overhead irrigation and damp foliage makes leaves susceptible to disease. Always use mulch, as that prevents soil from splashing up on your tomatoes which can increase the risks of plant disease. Finally, the next time you plant tomatoes, plant them in a new section of your backyard and space them farther apart to ensure proper air circulation among the plants. Ideally, plants should be approximately 2 feet apart.

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