动态第461页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

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Wild blueberries belong to the Vaccinium genus and are loved for the sweet-tart fruits they produce in mid- to late summer. As their name suggests, wild blueberries can be found in abandoned fields, along the side of the road, in forests and on mountains. These hardy plants spread through seeds and the development of rhizomes, or underground stems. [图片]Branch, Foliage and Fruit Production All wild blueberries produce blue-black, round fruits -- their most distinctive characteristic. The fruit has a five-pointed crown on the underside of the berry. Wild blueberries have thin branches and produce flowers that range from white to light pink in color. The leaves are green and broad, with a defined point, and they turn bright red in the fall. The berries produced by the wild plants are smaller than cultivated berries, roughly 1/4 inch in diameter, and they contain small, soft seeds. Species of Wild Blueberries The two primary species of wild blueberries that grow in North America are the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) and the sour top (Vaccinium myrtilloides). The sour top is a larger shrub, reaching heights of 6 to 24 inches tall, while the lowbush blueberry grows 3 to 15 inches high. Both shrubs produce a dusky blue-colored berry, -- the sour top has a waxy coating on the outside of the berry, while the lowbush has a powdery-looking coating. As the name implies, sour top berries are less sweet than the lowbush blueberry. Where to Find Wild Blueberries Wild blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 6. The location of wild blueberries depends on the species. The lowbush blueberry can be found in fields and forests, while the sour top grows mostly in woodlands. While wild blueberries grow throughout the United States, they are most prevalent in Maine and New Jersey. Wild blueberries are safe to eat but will taste best when fully ripened. To test for ripeness, tickle the fruit bunches and eat only the fruit that falls off easily. Blueberries are not fully ripe until several days after they turn blue. When harvesting wild berries, be aware that it's easy to misidentify them, and not all berries are edible. Do not eat berries that you can't definitively identify. [图片]Blueberries Vs. Huckleberries Blueberries are commonly mistaken for huckleberries, another wild shrub that produces small blue fruits. Blueberries are lighter in color than huckleberries, although the size and shape of the fruits are similar. Huckleberries grow more densely than wild blueberries, which tend to have a creeping growth habit, and are much taller, reaching upward of 4 feet high. The flowers are bell-shaped on the huckleberry plant, and the leaves turn a dark gold to red-purple in the fall. The seeds of the huckleberry fruit are harder than blueberries, and there are 10 seeds per berry. Huckleberry plants are found more commonly in the Pacific Northwest and the Northeast, growing mainly on mountainsides.

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Blueberries contain small seeds almost not recognizable in comparison with other berries like raspberries or blackberries. These seeds will actually produce new plants just as they do in the wild setting, slowly carpeting the area with new plants. Blueberries are cold weather plants and need a few months of freezing to break the seed dormancy. Replicate the natural setting of an acid soil and watch the tiny seedlings emerge. [图片]Step 1 Set a plastic bag of 8 oz. blueberries into the freezer for 90 days. Step 2 Remove the bag from the freezer and empty the blueberries into a kitchen blender. Add 8 oz. water and pulse the blender on high for 15 seconds. Step 3 Let the mixture settle for five minutes allowing the seeds to drop to the bottom. Pour off the water slowly, taking the pulpy material with it. Add another cup of water, blend, and drain three times. [图片]Step 4 Pour the remaining seeds and water into a sieve lined with a coffee filter. Shake the seeds onto a paper towel to dry for about 30 minutes. Step 5 Prepare a planting tray by taking finely ground dampened sphagnum moss and spreading it evenly over the surface. Step 6 Sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the tray and then sprinkle a very fine layer of more ground sphagnum moss about 1/8-inch thick. Step 7 Sprinkle 4 oz. water over the surface of the tray and then cover with two or three layers of newspaper. Step 8 Keep in a warm room for a month, until the seeds have sprouted under the paper, making sure to sprinkle the tray with about 4 oz. water every few days, to keep them moist but not soggy. Step 9 Remove the paper and keep the seedlings under grow lights or near a sunny window, watering them as needed to keep the moss moist until they are about 3 inches high. Step 10 Transplant the blueberry seedlings into 8-oz. peat pots filled with equal parts sand, dampened peat moss and potting soil, being careful not to break the fragile roots. Step 11 Fertilize the blueberry seedlings with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions. Step 12 Move the peat pots outside to a permanent location after the danger of frost has passed, keeping in mind that they need full sun, acid soil, and plenty of water but good drainage. Step 13 Mulch them for the winter with 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, pine needles or pine bark mulch.

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Central Florida has a warm, balmy climate with mild winters and sandy soils. While these may not seem ideal for growing blueberries (Vaccinium spp.), some varieties grow successfully in the area. Small adjustments in soil and care can lead to large blueberry yields in Florida's central region. [图片]Low-Chill Considerations Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested. Which Cultivars Work "Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9. [图片]Proper Location Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems. Growing the Berries Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries. Pruning for Health Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use. Fertilizer Needs Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.

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The rewards of a freshly picked, juicy blueberry from your backyard are many. Most areas of Oklahoma are very suitable for raising the bushes for this tiny fruit, which is one of the few fruits native to North America. With a bit of preparation and on-going care, raising blueberry bushes is possible, even for new gardeners. [图片]Step 1 Choose the cultivar of blueberry that you'll grow. The Oklahoma State University recommends the northern highbush if you live in the Tulsa area or north. Those in Oklahoma City and south should grow varieties of southern highbush blueberries or the rabbiteye cultivar. Step 2 Purchase two- to three-year-old bushes from a reputable nursery. It's very difficult to start a blueberry bush from seed. Step 3 Locate an appropriate spot for planting in your yard with full sun. Soil in the area should have a pH level between 5.0 and 5.2, according to Oklahoma State University. To adjust the pH level, treat the soil with sulfur at least six months before planting. [图片]Step 4 Dig one hole for each blueberry bush, leaving a space of at least 5 feet between each one. The hole should be slightly deeper than the root bulb of the plant. Step 5 Place the new bushes in the holes and cover with mulch or peat moss. Step 6 Monitor the soil moisture for the blueberry plants, being sure to give them at least 2 inches of water per week. Step 7 Prune the plant only after three years have passed. Use hand-held pruning shears to trim the branches closest to the ground.

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The hot climate and alkaline soils of many parts of Texas are far from ideal for blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) growing. Knowing which kinds of blueberry bushes to plant and how to compensate for unfavorable soil conditions, however, can allow you to cultivate a berry harvest even in the Lonestar State. [图片]Texas Soils and Blueberries Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil. Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however. Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark. Varieties for Texas Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a. [图片]Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier." Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10. Site Considerations and Planting Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well. If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart. Fertilization and Watering Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces. Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.

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Cultivated for thousands of years, with countless varieties, versatile grape vines (Vitis spp.) are grown for their fruit, leaves and often simply as ornamentation. Grapes require no fertilization if soil is at least moderately fertile. (The Fruit Gardeners Bible, pg 109, "If your soils are reasonable fertile you may not need to add fertilizer). If fertilizer is needed, apply low-concentration fertilizers with a balanced mineral content to raise grape vines that produce lush vegetation and juicy, sweet grapes. Grapes grow well, depending on variety, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. [图片]When to Fertilize When fertilization is needed, fertilize prior to mid-summer. Late fertilization can lead to late-season growth when the plant should be heading into a dormant stage. Late growth may weaken the grape vine's ability to survive the winter and affect its growth the following year. Grapes planted in balanced, healthy soil may not require fertilization. To determine the quality of your soil have it tested at a local garden center. Garden centers test the ratio of acidity and alkalinity in soils (their pH). Grapes grow best in soils with a pH balance of 5.5-7.0 ( The Fruit Gardeners Bible, pg 108). Selecting a Fertilizer Commercial fertilizers are a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and other less-critical supporting micro-nutrients and fillers. A commercial label will indicate the N-P-K ratio, such as 24-8-16. This particular N-P-K ratio indicates that the product is 24 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphorus, 16 percent potassium and 52 percent micro-nutrients and fillers, by volume. [图片]Grapes prefer well-balanced formulas with relatively low percentages. Look for a label with an equal amount of each major mineral in percentages from 10 to 18 percent. For example, look for a label reading 10-10-10 or 15-15-15. Applying the Fertilizer Fertilizers come in liquid and dry forms. If your chosen fertilizer does not recommend exactly how much to apply for grapes, err on the side of caution and use half the recommended amount for other fruit-bearing plants. (The Fruit Gardener's Bible, pg 109). Manufacturer Lilly Millers's Ultragreen is an appropriate dry fertilizer for grapes. Apply 1/3 a cup of Ultragreen for every 25 feet of grape vines. After scattering fertilizer, gently rake it into soil and water thoroughly (see label: http://www.lillymiller.com/labels/Ultragreen/UG_All-Purpose_10lb.pdf). Follow manufacturer's specific directions for other types of fertilizers. Avoid getting liquid and dry fertilizers on vines and apply it approximately 18 inches away from the base of the plants. Fertilizers containing iron may stain surfaces other than soil; avoid spilling them on concrete, driveways and wood.

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Vine plants add depth to any garden, climbing over fences, trellises and walls. Like many vining plants, ornamental grape vines will not necessarily assume an attractive shape and climb exactly where you want them to -- even when you've got all the necessary supports in place. If you want your garden to look neat and well-tended, properly prune all ornamental grape vines to keep them under control. [图片]Step 1 Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning. Step 2 Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base. Step 3 Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure. [图片]Step 4 Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine. Step 5 Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart. Step 6 Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies. Step 7 Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each. Step 8 Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.

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Grapes (Vitis spp.) are sensitive to cold, with most varieties being winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. But some grape varieties can stand up to a Michigan winter, at least in the southern part of the state. The key to successfully growing grapes in Michigan is to look for cultivars whose tolerance for cold matches the winter conditions in your part of the state. [图片]Regional Differences Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat. Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula. If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy. [图片]Table Grapes Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters. "Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula. Hybrid Wine Grapes The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan. White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9. Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown. American Grape Varieties The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.

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Concord grapes must have their inedible seeds removed before making juice, jam or eating. The distinctive flavor of Concord grapes sets these apart from seedless varieties of grapes, and the time it takes to remove the seeds will be worth the effort. Concord grapes are easily squeezed from their skins, known as slip-skin, says the Concord Grape Association. This differentiates these grapes from other dark purple grapes. [图片]Step 1 Wash the grapes under running water to remove dirt and residue. Step 2 Hold a grape between your thumb and forefinger. Squeeze gently so the grape slips out of its skin. Discard the skin and set aside the grape. Repeat with the remaining grapes. Step 3 Remove the seeds from the grapes for eating the whole fruit. Cut the grapes in half and dig out the seed from each grape for using in recipes. [图片]Step 4 Puree the grapes and remove the seeds for juicing or use in jelly. Set a sieve over a bowl to catch the seeded puree. Force the skinned grapes through a sieve to separate the seeds and use the puree in your recipes. Discard the grape seeds.