动态第464页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年11月03日

How long it takes for garlic (Allium sativum) to grow and mature depends on when you plant the cloves. Garlic grows best when it experiences a period of chilling. The best time for planting garlic is fall, and fall-planted garlic matures in about eight months. Garlic can also be planted in spring, and spring-planted garlic takes less than eight months to mature, but it may not form bulbs. Garlic grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. [图片]Growing Garlic A spot in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil provide the best growing conditions for garlic. Choose a part of the garden that gets at least eight hours of sun each day. Garlic tolerates alkaline soil, but it prefers acidic soil that's slightly dry and rich in organic matter. Don't grow garlic in heavy, wet soil because this leads to rot. Space garlic cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 15 to 24 inches apart. Don't grow garlic on a site where it grew during the past three years, to help prevent disease problems. Watering Garlic Keeping garlic well-watered and mulched through the growing season provides the best bulbs. Mulches suppress weeds that compete with garlic for water, and also help conserve soil moisture. [图片]Water garlic every eight to 10 days in dry weather, moistening the soil to a depth of 2 feet. Spread a 2-inch layer of garden compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold or other organic matter around the garlic plants, but don't allow the mulch to touch the garlic plants' leaves. Applying Fertilizer Fall-planted garlic needs a high-nitrogen fertilizer in spring, and garlic planted in fall or spring needs fertilizer in early summer. Ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal supplies garlic nutrient needs. Put on gloves, and evenly sprinkle ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot over a fall-planted garlic bed when the garlic begins actively growing in spring. Water the granules into the soil. Apply the fertilizer at the same rate to fall-planted and spring-planted garlic two to three months later, in early summer. Manufacturers' instructions vary among products, so read the fertilizer label and follow the instructions. Harvesting and Curing Garlic Curing garlic after harvest helps prevent it from spoiling in storage. Garlic is ready for harvesting when the bulbs contain well-developed cloves and the bulb skin is thick, dry and papery. Other signs of maturity include brown leaves and only six to eight green leaves remaining on each plant. Don't wait longer than two weeks after all the leaves have withered to harvest garlic, because the bulbs deteriorate in the soil. Push a garden fork into the soil 2 inches from the base of the plant, and lever the bulb out of the soil. Spread garlic bulbs, with the leaves attached, in a single layer in a warm, shady, dry, airy place. Don't allow the bulbs to touch. After three or four days the bulbs and leaves will be dried out and ready for storage. Store garlic in a dry, shady place at temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月02日

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Miss Chen

2017年11月02日

Strawberries are a popular summer crop, but once the weather changes fresh berries can be very hard to come by. For gardeners who can't get enough of this sweet, red fruit, strawberries can be grown indoors, as long as adequate lighting is provided. Try your strawberries in hanging baskets under grow lights for best results. [图片]Step 1 Line the basket with sphagnum moss. It should be fairly thick on the bottom but can be thinner on the sides. Fill the basket the rest of the way with potting soil. Water until the soil is soaked and allow it to drain. Step 2 Trim the roots of the strawberry plants so that they are no more than 5 inches long. Remove any damaged or diseased sections. Step 3 Plant the strawberry plants in the soil. Spread the roots out so that they are not bunched up before you cover them with soil. Bury the roots up to where they join at the stem. Don't overcrowd the basket, as the plants need room to grow and spread. [图片]Step 4 Place the grow light near the strawberry plants. Hang it above them or place it on a stand near them. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the correct distance from the light to the plants. It is important to use a full-spectrum grow light, as the strawberries will not develop or ripen without the proper kind of light. Step 5 Expose the plants to light for at least eight hours per day, though the light can be on up to 16 hours, if you choose. The plants need a rest period where there is no light for at least eight hours each day. If the strawberries are placed in a location where they get as much sunlight as possible the need for artificial lighting is reduced. Step 6 Tap the flowers gently with the paintbrush, going from one to another, to spread the pollen throughout the blossoms. Strawberries are self-pollinating, but though that means you can get berries from a single plant, when grown indoors they still need some help spreading the pollen from flower to flower. Otherwise there will not be any fruit. Step 7 Water the berries whenever the soil gets dry. Fertilize lightly once a month. Avoid getting berries wet, to minimize potential fungus problems.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月02日

Strawberries require moist, warm soils for optimum growth, factors controlled most easily in a container. However, container-grown strawberries can tangle and overgrow themselves, causing rot and an unevenly ripe crop. You can solve this problem without purchasing trellises or fancy planting systems. All you need is some PVC pipe to build an original strawberry planter. [图片]Step 1 Clean your PVC pipe with mild soap and clean water. Rinse it thoroughly. This eliminates dirt and grime that might harm your strawberries if absorbed. The length of the pipe may be from 2 to 8 feet; this depends on your space restrictions. Hardware stores will cut the pipe for you at no extra cost. Step 2 Place the pipe on a flat surface. Drill 4-inch holes in the pipe with your boring bit, spacing them about 6 inches apart. In a 12-inch pipe, you'll only get two holes. In an 8-foot pipe, you may have up to 16 holes. Step 3 Drill one 2-inch hole between each of the 4-inch holes. These holes will allow you to water your plants and give excess water a place to evaporate. Step 4 Run a bead of silicone caulk around one end of the pipe. Press a pipe cap into place. Let the caulk dry overnight. Do not cap the other end yet. [图片]Step 5 Pour potting soil into your pipe until it's half full when lying on its side, with the holes facing up. Fit the cap on the other end; don't seal it, so you can empty the planter if necessary. Step 6 Gently place one strawberry seedling in each hole. Cover the roots with soil through its planting hole. Step 7 Screw two lantern-style L-brackets into a porch wall with steel screws. These brackets have a slight curve in the top arm, perfect for holding your pipe planter. Set the planter on the brackets.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月02日

Pruning strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) encourages them to grow strongly and produce plenty of fruit. Strawberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11. June-bearing or short-day strawberries fruit in spring and early summer; ever-bearing varieties produce strawberries through the growing season; day-neutral plants usually fruit three months after planting. Before and after pruning strawberries, wipe your pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases. [图片]First-Year Plants Pruning flowers on strawberries in their first year increases fruit production later. June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries that have their first flowers pruned also grow more vigorously than unpruned plants. Prune all the flowering stalks on June-bearing strawberries in the first growing season. Prune the stalks at their bases where they join the rest of the plant. Prune the first flush of flowers that appear on ever-bearing strawberries after planting. If your ever-bearing plants are growing strongly, you can allow the second flush of flowers to develop into fruits. Prune flowers on day-neutral varieties for six weeks after planting. Matted Rows Selective pruning of strawberry runners helps produce matted rows of plants. Runners are shoots that grow out from plants and develop roots, which grow into new plants. Matted rows of strawberries are wide rows that cover bare soil and suppress weeds. [图片]To create matted rows of June-bearing or ever-bearing strawberries, plant new plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. When runners appear, encourage six from each plant to form roots. Weigh them down, evenly spaced around the plants, with small stones or U-shaped pieces of wire at their nodes, which are bumps on the stems. Prune all other runners that appear at their bases where they join the rest of the plant. Grow day-neutral strawberries 9 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Prune all runners on day-neutral plants in the first year, and allow them to form matted rows in the second and third year. Ribbon Rows Ribbon rows are rows of single strawberries. Growing strawberries in ribbon rows allows air to circulate and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. To grow June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries in ribbon rows, space the plants 4 to 9 inches apart in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Prune all the runners that appear through the life of the plants. To help prevent problems with weeds, spread a 2-inch layer of sawdust or a 4-inch layer of clean straw between the strawberry plants. Gray Mold Strawberries suffer from a fungal disease called gray mold, but pruning helps reduce the disease's spread. Gray mold often affects strawberries in damp weather and in sites with poor air circulation. Blossoms and fruit slowly turn moldy, and finally a dusty, gray mold covers whole fruits. Prune infected blossoms and fruit, and dead leaves, on June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries. Pick healthy fruit at least every other day, and immediately refrigerate it. Water in the morning at the plant bases to help prevent gray mold.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月02日

When you look at a strawberry, those little yellow dots that you see evenly coating the outer flesh are actually seeds. Each one of these seeds is capable of germinating into a whole new plant that can provide at least 1 qt. berries. Because strawberry plants are perennials, they will continue to produce bountiful harvests year after year. With a little preparation, you can grow your own strawberry plants indoors from the seeds of the fresh berry. [图片]Step 1 Place one or two fresh strawberries on a paper plate. Set the paper plate in an undisturbed area such as a high shelf or windowsill to dry out. Step 2 Rub the skin of the strawberry with your hands. As you rub, the strawberry seeds will fall onto the paper plate. Step 3 Collect the seeds and store them in an envelope inside the refrigerator for 30 days. Cold storage or "stratification" is essential prior to germination. [图片]Step 4 Fill a seed starter tray with organic potting soil. Remove the strawberry seeds from the envelope and press two seeds, ¼ inch into the soil of each cell. Step 5 Spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle. Place the clear plastic cover on the seed starter tray and set the tray in an area with bright, indirect sunlight. Step 6 Remove the plastic cover when the strawberry seedlings poke their way through the soil. Germination is usually between four and seven days. Continue to provide the young strawberry plants with bright, indirect sunlight and moist soil as they grow.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月01日

In a small home garden, space is often at a premium. You may find yourself crowding together plants or allowing them to mingle with their neighbors just to fit them all in. Sometimes it can be difficult to balance the needs and match the effects of two plants on each other. However, cucumbers and tomatoes grow quite well together. [图片]Compatibility Cucumbers are considered compatible with tomatoes. The two plants are companion plants, mutually beneficial to each other. Companion plants help one another in several ways, including making it more difficult for pests to adapt to the defenses of a single plant and by providing food and shelter for beneficial insects. Both tomatoes and cucumbers dislike growing near potatoes. Needs Tomatoes and cucumbers share many of the same basic needs. Cucumbers require 50 to 70 days to reach maturity, while tomatoes need 55 to 105 days, depending on the variety. Both are warm-season crops that require good drainage and a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.5. Because both require deep watering and a consistent supply of water to help fruit develop properly, having the two share space in the garden makes sense. Placement When planting your tomatoes and cucumbers together, you can opt to let the cucumber vines grow along the ground in the space between tomato plants, or train the vines onto the same supports you use for tomatoes. This mingling of plants is called diversified planting, which the Alabama Cooperative Extension System suggests as a strategy to make it harder for insect pests to find and damage specific crops. Because either crop can develop mold problems under moist conditions and crowding, allow plenty of space for air to circulate between plants. [图片]Disease When growing these two crops together, you must consider the potential for disease. While cucumber mosaic virus does affect both tomatoes and cucumbers, the disease is not limited to these two crops -- it affects more than 40 families of plants. Phytophthora blight is a more serious issue, as it can ravage both cucumbers and tomatoes. Rotate crops to prevent infection, leaving a period of three years between repeat uses of a space for cucurbit and solanaceous crops. When you pair tomatoes and cucumbers in the same space in the same year, that effectively gives you double use of one susceptible area before you have to rotate in another crop.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月01日

Homegrown fresh tomatoes are, for some, one of the best things to come out of summer. Many gardeners watch their tomato plants all summer, waiting for the day when that first tomato can be picked and eaten. But, at times, that first bite can bring disappointment instead of joy when the tomato has a mushy, soft texture instead of the expected firm, juicy taste. Growing techniques, plants and over-watering can all impact a tomato. [图片]Type of Plant Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it. Growing Environment The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato. [图片]Watering Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants. Tomato Storage Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月01日

Sun-dried tomatoes come dehydrated, oil-packed and powdered, each with a different shelf life. Expiration and packing dates on the label give you the best indication of the shelf life of unopened sun-dried tomatoes. However, proper storage after you open them can keep the tomatoes fresh for up to 12 months. [图片]What Sun-Drying Entails [图片]Although sun-dried tomatoes evoke images of tomatoes laid out on wood tables drying in sunlight, the artisinal approach isn't efficient for commercial purveyors. Sun-dried tomatoes you find in the store are harvested at their peak ripeness and dried with salt, wood-generated heat or dehydrators. All drying methods reduce the sugar content and concentrate the essence of the tomato into a piquant, tart product. They are either packaged and sold whole and in slices, or ground into a powder that gives soups and sauces an extra kick of tomato flavor without adding volume. Shelf Life: Whole or Sliced Tomatoes in Oil [图片]An unopened jar of whole or sliced tomatoes, preserved in olive oil, lasts 12 months from the time of packaging. Keep tightly lidded, opened jars refrigerated for anywhere from 6 to 12 months from their package date before discarding them. Keep the tomatoes fully covered in oil for maximum shelf life. Throw away any with a foul odor or discoloration. Shelf Life: Dry Whole or Sliced Tomatoes and Powder [图片]Unopened cellophane bags of dried tomatoes last up to 9 months in the refrigerator and jarred and powdered dried tomatoes last up to 24 months in the refrigerator. Freezing unopened packages extends their shelf life by several months. Opened sun-dried tomatoes and powder last up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Never consume sun-dried tomatoes that appear rancid or smell bad. Storage [图片]Proper storage maximizes the shelf life of sun-dried tomatoes. Always store sun-dried tomatoes and powder in the refrigerator. Sun-dried tomato powder normally gets packaged at temperatures below freezing. In air-tight packaging, the product warms to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet to preserve flavor and freshness, store it below 40 F with less than 65 percent humidity. Never keep opened sun-dried tomato packages near foods with strong odors, such as cheeses or garlic, because these odors can alter the natural flavor of the tomatoes.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月01日

Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown vegetables at home, in part because they are considered relatively low-maintenance vegetables. Still, their being low maintenance does not make them immune to damage incurred from natural conditions such as extreme temperature changes. A failure to protect your tomato plants from such conditions can result in poor-quality fruit yield come harvest time. [图片]Tomatoes and Temperature Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator. Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars. Spotting a Mealy Tomato Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf. [图片]Other Considerations If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.

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