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Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Miss Chen
Mulching grapevines at their base offers advantages and disadvantages to your crops. It is important for gardeners to weigh both sides before deciding to mulch. In addition, the type of mulch and how much is used is equally as important. Improper mulching leads to excess soil moisture, rodent problems and fungal diseases. [图片]Advantages Grapes are mulched at their base to reduce weed populations, conserve soil moisture and prevent soil erosion, according to the Ohio State University. In fact, mulched grapevines benefit when gardeners use a mulch type the contributes nutrients as decaying matter decomposes. It is important to note that when using an acidic mulch, such as pine needles or sphagnum moss, the mulch should never come in contact with the grapevine. The acidic properties in mulch burns grapevines. Disadvantages Several disadvantages may deter gardeners from using mulch. Rodents and pests thrive in organic mulch, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Furthermore, fungal spores that cause diseases overwinter or live within organic mulch. Grapevines have a difficult recovering, because they are continually exposed to fungal spores traveling through the wind and rainwater. Using an inorganic mulch, such as gravel, prevents fungal spores from living right at the base of your grapevine. [图片]Mulch Types Types of inorganic mulch that gardeners may use at the base of their grapevines includes rubber chips, plastic sheeting and non-woven geotextiles, according to Susanne Von Rosenberg from the "Napa Valley Register." Inorganic mulch is not a permanent mulch. Rubber, landscaping fabric and plastic sheeting degrade over time in the sun. Furthermore, organic mulch types that gardeners use consist of compost, straw, hay, leaves, grass clippings and saw dust. When using grass clippings, avoid using an clippings that have been treated with herbicides. How to Mulch Mulch is applied several different ways depending on the amount of money you want to spend. Gardeners can mulch the entire vineyard floor or only 4- to 5-foot bands within trellises, according to the Ohio State University Extension. For those wanting to control soil erosion, mulching only between rows is effective. The thickness of your mulch layer depends on the type of mulch you are using. Organic mulch is generally deeper than inorganic mulch such as crushed bricks.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Miss Chen
The muscadine, Vitis rotunifolia, is a type of grape that is grown primarily in the southern states. It has a tough skin and contains a hard, inedible seed. They have a sweet, rich flavor and come in bronze and purple-black colors. The light-colored variety is sometimes called "scuppergongs."A crop that can tolerate the high humidity of the South, muscadine season brings rich rewards for growers. [图片]About Muscadine Grapes Muscadine grapes come in a number of varieties of both bronze and black types. Some types are self-fertilizing, while other varieties need a pollinator planted nearby in order to produce fruit. Some of the popular bronze varieties include Summit, Higgins and Carlos. Common purple types are Cowart, Regale and Supreme. Planting Muscadine Grapes For best results, muscadine grapes are planted in early spring after all danger of frost has passed, according to Florida Grape Growers Association writer Jiang Lu. These plants prefer a slightly acid soil of 6.0 with fertile, loamy soil. Plants are placed in six to eight-inch holes and watered generously to give them a good start. As shoots grow, growers must train the new vines onto trellises or wires to support the plants as the fruit forms. Vines are generally limited to two main lateral shoots and side suckers should be removed to concentrate nutrients to these two producing segments. Cultivation of Muscadine Grapes Muscadine grapes are pruned between November and February. Small spurs are kept on the vines every six inches. These spurs are pruned to bear only two or three buds. Fertilize plants with 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 mixtures of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Use one pound of fertilizer per year of age of the vine up to four pounds. Irrigate weekly. Muscadine grape roots run shallow, so keep plants weeded by hand or with a hoe. Mechanical methods of weeding may damage roots. [图片]Muscadine Harvest Season Muscadine grapes are harvested starting the third season of growth. The grapes mature from early August to September. Fruit is ready for harvest when it falls easily from the vine. Shaking the vines firmly will dislodge the mature fruits. Remove mature fruits every two to five days during the harvest season. Problems of Muscadine Though muscadine grapes have fewer pest problems than other bunch grapes, they can still suffer from anthracnose, downy mildew and black rot. Use a fungicide recommended by your local agricultural extension service for the best results for your area.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Miss Chen
Grapes will grow in a hydroponic system, provided they are well-supported and get an adequate flow of nutrients. The container for growing grapes must be large enough to hold the mature plant and arranged so the weight of the plant and fruit won't tip it over. A good hydroponic growing system for grapes is an ebb-and-flow system. This system fills the planter nearly full of liquid nutrients several times a day and then drains the liquid so the plant roots can get air. [图片]Step 1 Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the bottom of the bucket. Fit in a short section of the hose. Caulk around it to prevent leaks and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours. This will allow the nutrient liquid to drain back into the reservoir. Step 2 Make two ½-inch holes in one end of the plastic storage bin, near the top. The holes will allow both the cord from a submersible pump and a filler hose to pass out of the reservoir while the lid is on. Drill a ½-inch hole in the lid of the bin to allow the drain hose access to the bin. This bin will be the nutrient reservoir. Step 3 Place a piece of screen over the drain hole to prevent perlite from leaking out. Fill the bucket with perlite. Add a thick layer of clay pellets or silica stones at the bottom to give it some weight. Be sure to use new, sterile pellets, stones and perlite to avoid contaminating the hydroponic system. [图片]Step 4 Plant the grape vine in the perlite to the depth recommended on the plant tag. Be sure the plant is secure in the perlite. Place the bucket on a shelf or table in a sunny location next to a trellis, arbor, fence or netting where you can secure the grape vine as it grows. Step 5 Set the reservoir in a spot lower than the planting bucket. Attach a filler hose to a submersible pump and place the pump in the reservoir. Run both the pump's power cord and the hose out of the reservoir through the holes in the end. Fill the container about two-thirds full of nutrient solution. Put the lid on it. Step 6 Fit the plant bucket's drain hose into the hole in the reservoir lid. Bring the filler hose up from the reservoir and clip it securely to the inside of the bucket's rim. Step 7 Set the timer to run three or four times per day, just long enough to fill the bucket to about an inch from the tip of the perlite. Plug the pump into the time and plug the timer into an outlet to complete your setup for growing hydroponic grapes.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Miss Chen
Strawberries left to sit on the ground to grow often end up rotting or riddled with insects. When heavy rains come and puddle in the strawberry patch, the wet conditions invite mold to grow on the strawberry fruit. If you want your strawberries to remain bug- and mold-free during the growing and ripening seasons, you have to keep them off the ground. You don't have to worry about this until the plants actually start producing fruit, at which point the weight of the fruit will cause the berry to hang down to the ground. [图片]Step 1 Cover the area where you want to grow your strawberries using black landscaping cloth. Use a shovel to line the edges of the cloth with dirt to keep it from blowing around. Step 2 Cut an "x" in the landscaping cloth wherever you want to plant a strawberry plant. Use a carpet knife to cut the x's. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart. [图片]Step 3 Plant the strawberries by opening the flaps of each of the x's and digging a small hole with a garden spade. Dig a hole deep enough and wide enough to keep the roots of the plant from getting crowded. Fold the flaps down around the stems of the plants after planting. Step 4 Water and watch the plants produce fruit. As the plants grow and produce fruit, the heavier fruit will settle down on the landscaping cloth above the ground. The cloth allows for proper water drainage and acts as a barrier to keep troublesome insects from eating the strawberries.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Miss Chen
You can grow strawberries from seeds from a strawberry or from an existing plant. It's generally easier, however, to grow strawberries from plants, because you don't have to put effort into preparing the seeds and sowing them in hopes they germinate. As a result, you often have more success planting an existing plant. [图片]Strawberry Selection One challenge associated with growing strawberries from seeds is choosing the right strawberries. Although it might be tempting to select strawberries from a particularly great tasting batch, if they were purchased from a local farmer's market or grocery store, it's unlikely you will produce a plant with fruit of the same form and taste. Commercial growers often produce a self-pollinating variety of strawberry that was derived to ensure consistent quality fruit and reliable crop size. The downside to using this strawberry type is it might not replicate the traits of its parents in the new plant and thus the strawberries probably won't taste the same. If possible, select a strawberry from a home garden or wild strawberry patch. Ripe vs. Unripe Strawberry Don't plant seeds from unripe or nearly ripe strawberries, which are less likely to germinate and grow into healthy plants. Only use seeds from ripe strawberries and make certain that you plant viable seeds. Test seeds first. Viable seeds sink when placed in water; the others float. [图片]Obtaining Seeds Before you can plant strawberry seeds, you must separate the seeds from the pulp. Place 1 cup of water and about a pint of strawberries in your blender. Turn it on for about three to five seconds. Let the mixture stand for about one minute or so to allow time for the viable seeds to sink; the other seeds will float along with the pulp. Slowly drain the water from the blender so that only the viable seeds are left inside. Spoon out the remaining seeds, rinse and place them on a paper towel to thoroughly dry. Once dry, the seeds are ready for planting, unless you chose a variety that requires a cold treatment, such as Alpine strawberries. If a cold treatment is necessary, place the seeds, wrapped in a paper towel and then sealed in a tight-fitting container, in the freezer for two to four weeks to simulate winter conditions. Remove the seeds and let them acclimate to room temperature before planting. The process helps speed up germination for certain varieties. Tip Use the same care in selecting an existing plant for propagating that you would use in choosing the strawberry variety you want to plant. Base your selection on fruit quality and taste, disease resistance and production. In addition, choose an Alpine or heirloom rather than a hybrid variety if possible. Hybrid varieties produced from strawberry seeds don't always develop fruit of comparable form.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Miss Chen
A strawberry is a vegetable in the strictest scientific sense because the red berries form from a modified receptacle on the strawberry plant's flower instead of from the ovary of the flower. The seeds dotting the berries' exterior are actually the fruit of the flower -- the ripened ovaries. Strawberries are technically false fruits, and many factors contribute to the size, structure and flavor of these false fruits. [图片]Cultivars The species or cultivar grown determines the size of the berry the plant produces. Three types of strawberries exist. Junebearers produce fruit in June from the flower buds that bloomed the previous fall. Dayneutral strawberry plants continuously bloom and set fruit throughout the summer and fall. Everbearing strawberries produce fruit in the summer and again in the fall. Within each of these categories are cultivars with different fruit characteristics, including the berry size. Veestar, Cornwallis, Sparkle, Tribute and Tristar are cultivars with smaller-than-average berries. Age The strawberry plant's age can reduce the size of the berries the plant produces. During the first year of growth, pinch and remove the blooms of Junebearing strawberry plants to prevent berry production. This allows the plant to divert the energy from fruit production to root production in the first year, which makes the plant more stable and results in larger berries the following year. After 3 to 4 years, the berries produced on most strawberry plants will decrease in both size and number, requiring rejuvenation or rotation of the crop. Nutrients When a lack of nutrients including water, sunlight or fertilizer stresses a plant during blooming or fruit development, the berries' size is negatively affected. A plant requires sufficient energy to bloom and grow fruit. When the plant does not receive the nutrients, the available energy the plant has is diverted to the processes necessary for survival. Flower blooms and fruit production are reproductive process, not a survival process. A late frost in the spring can damage flowers, interrupting or halting fruit development. [图片]Disease Strawberries are susceptible to a variety of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, as well as pest infestations. Diseases include verticillium wilt, red stele, mildew, leaf spot and botrytis fruit rot. Insects attracted to strawberry plants include root weevils, aphids, spittlebugs, slugs, birds and spider mites. Depending on the type of infection of infestation, a variety of treatments are available including fungicides, insecticides, bactericides and traps. Most viral infections have no effective treatments and require destruction of the plant.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Miss Chen
Many traditional insecticides are toxic to you and your family, and their residual effects -- including an increased risk of some cancers -- can linger on strawberry fruit long after the fruit has been picked. Strawberries are targets for many common pests, however, so don't leave strawberry plants defenseless. Several safe, natural insecticides can protect strawberries, but the right choice depends on which specific pest is causing the problem. [图片]Spittlebugs Spittlebugs are one of the most prevalent strawberry pests, warns the University of Kentucky. These 1/2-inch-long bugs create sticky masses of white foam and feed on strawberry stems and foliage. Control becomes necessary when there are five or more spittle foam masses per square foot of strawberry garden space, at which point the bugs begin affecting strawberry plant size and fruit yield. Keep strawberry gardens free of weeds, which are often the host of spittlebugs. Avoid the use of traditional pesticides, which kill the beneficial insects that typically keep spittlebugs in check. Instead, simply shoot strawberry plants down with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This washes away the sticky foam and knocks the insects off the plants, killing them and quickly eradicating the problem. Strawberry Root Weevils Although you can't see them, strawberry root weevils' grubs in the soil are another major headache of gardeners. The grubs feed on the roots and the base of the strawberry plant and can kill an entire patch of strawberries. At night, set out a tray or cardboard box under the strawberry plants. Shake the plants to dislodge adult weevils -- the adults are slow moving and cannot fly -- and either crush the weevils or freeze them to kill them. This sufficiently reduces adult weevil populations, which in turn limits grub activity. Instead of traditional grubicides, try the all-natural parasitic nematode known as Hetero-rhabditis bacteriophora. When applied to the soil around strawberry plants in the spring, the nematodes naturally and safely attack and kill the grubs. Parasitic nematodes are available in many garden stores and nurseries. Follow all labeled guidelines, as application rates vary by product. For most nematode sprays, use approximately 3 gallons of nematode spray for every 500 square feet of soil surface. Tarnished Plant Bug The tarnished plant bug has an oval shape and a diamond-pattern on its back. It also ranks high in the list of common strawberry pests, attacking young developing fruit. Keep strawberry beds clean and free of debris and fallen leaves to eradicate hiding spots and keep bug populations from reaching nuisance levels. Hand-crushing the bugs and their young can sufficiently control this problem in many cases, as does shooting down the strawberry plant with a strong jet of water to dislodge and kill the bugs. For a stronger solution, use a homemade insecticidal soap. Combine a tablespoon of liquid dish soap in a pint of water, shake well and mist the soapy water onto affected strawberry plants to naturally kill the pests. [图片]Snails and Slugs The strawberry plant's low-hanging profile makes it easy for slugs and snails to reach the plant and feed on its stems, leaves and the fruit itself. If you notice missing foliage and telltale slime trails, these creatures are the problem. Slugs and snails are sensitive to moisture. Allow the strawberry garden to dry out slightly. This dehydrates and reduces the pest population. Additionally, eliminate hiding spots, such as thick mulch and fallen organic debris. If that doesn't sufficiently control slugs and snails, use food-grade diatomaceous earth. This natural insecticide powder kills slugs and snails on contact. Sprinkle the diatomaceous earth in a circle around each strawberry plant, forcing the slugs or snails to crawl over the powder to reach the plant. Mites and Aphids Mites and aphids look tiny, but in sufficient numbers, they can suck the sap out of the strawberry plant's foliage and cause widespread wilting and plant death. Shooting strawberry plants down with water can rinse away the pests and keep their populations from reaching harmful levels. Or, use a homemade insecticidal soap spray by mixing a tablespoon of soap in a pint of water and spraying it directly on aphid and mite activity.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Miss Chen
Climbing strawberry varieties are very similar to traditional strawberry plants, but the runners, or vines, can reach up to 40 inches in length. These strawberries grow well in the ground as well as in hanging baskets and containers. However, because of the longer vines, ground-planted climbing strawberries require a trellis to keep the fruit and foliage off of the ground. [图片]Step 1 Wait until the early spring when freezing temperatures cease and the ground is no longer frozen. Look for a planting site that is well drained, receives six hours of sunlight per day, and has a dark soil composition. Areas that are slightly elevated are good sites for strawberries, because they aid in water drainage. Step 2 Spread a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, over the planting side using 1 lb. for every 100 square feet of soil. Till the soil with a garden tiller to work the fertilizer six to eight inches into the soil [图片]Step 3 Dig a hole in the soil that is the same depth as the roots of one for the climbing strawberry plants. Insert the roots into the hole, making sure that the area where the green stems emerge, called the crown, is above the soil. Fill in the hole but do not cover crown with soil. Step 4 Plant additional climbing strawberry varieties in the same methods, spacing them 18 to 30 inches apart. Step 5 Dig a 12-inch deep trench six inches behind the plants with a shovel. Insert a 4- to 5-foot tall trellis into the bottom of the trench and pack soil around the base to fill in the hole and to hold it upright. You can install a single long trellis or smaller ones for each plant. Step 6 Water the soil to the same depth as the roots of the strawberry plants. Step 7 Wait four to five weeks until the plant runners begin to grow. Lift the runners up to a vertical position and secure them gently to the trellis using gardener's tape. Loop the tape around the vine stems and tie in a knot behind the trellis.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cannas are lush tropical plants with huge leaves and vibrant blossoms on tall stalks. Many varieties have multicolored and patterned leaves, making them a season-long focal point. [图片]Choosing a site to grow cannas Select a site with full sun and moist soil. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds. Special features of cannas Unusual foliage [图片]Planting Instructions Plant canna rhizomes in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep. Set the rhizome horizontally in the hole, cover it with soil, and press firmly. Space rhizomes 1 to 4 feet apart, depending on the variety. Water thoroughly. In regions with short summers, start rhizomes indoors by potting up and placing them in a warm, sunny location. [图片]Ongoing Care Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around cannas to retain moisture and control weeds. Cannas prefer consistently moist soil, so water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week, and water container-grown plants frequently to keep soil moist. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. Remove flowers as they fade. In autumn, after frost kills the foliage, cut plants back to 6 inches tall. Carefully lift each clump of rhizomes and put them in a plastic-lined box filled with perlite or peat moss, spacing them so that none are touching. Store boxes off the floor in a dry area at 45 to 55 degrees F. Replant in the spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bleeding heart has attractive mounded foliage with arching stems of delicate, heart-shaped flowers in spring. It thrives in moist woodland gardens along with ferns and other shade-lovers. [图片]About bleeding hearts Bleeding heart grows best in cool, moist conditions. Flower colors include yellow, pink, red, and white. It blooms in spring and may rebloom sporadically throughout the summer in cool areas. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet, depending on variety. [图片]Choosing a site to grow bleeding hearts Select a site with light to medium shade and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Special features of bleeding hearts Deer resistant [图片]Ongoing Care Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line.
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