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Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
Miss Chen
Strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) are a tasty summer fruit that can be enjoyed fresh, frozen, or in favorite desserts. Whether grown in a traditional garden or in raised beds, hardy cultivars are capable of producing abundant crops when planted with proper care. Three varieties of strawberry plants are popular with gardeners across the United States. [图片]June-bearing Strawberries June-bearing strawberry cultivars are the most popular among home and commercial growers because of the quantity and quality of the fruit. June-bearing plants produce a full crop the season after planting. Blooms and fruit appear from late May until the end of June. Prior to planting, the garden soil requires attentive care in preparation for the second season of fruit-bearing. Gardeners may need to amend the soil to achieve a loamy condition. Organic matter, such as compost or animal manure, can help poor soil become loamy soil. In addition, a 10-10-10 garden fertilizer broadcast in the spring of the planting year will boost yields the second season. David T. Handley, vegetable and small fruit specialist at the University of Maine Cooperative Extension, recommends having the soil tested for pH levels in conjunction with fertilizing. A soil pH level of 5.8 to 6.2 is optimal for strawberry plant growth and fruit production. Once the soil is prepared, transplant June-bearing strawberry plants in the spring after hard frosts are over and the ground is dry. Plants do not tolerate wet conditions or the occurrences of repeated freezing and thawing. Day-neutral Strawberries Day-neutral strawberry plants produce a steady crop of fruit over the entire growing season. Although harvesting extends beyond June, total yield may fall short of fruit quantities produced by June-bearing plants. Day-neutral cultivars should be planted yearly as annuals. [图片]As with June-bearing cultivars, Day-neutral strawberry plants should be transplanted in early spring once the ground can be worked and the soil has dried from winter thawing. If purchasing, buy stock from a reputable local grower and plant in your garden immediately. Follow soil preparation guidelines for June-bearing varieties, as soil requirements are similar. The University of Maine Extension also recommends choosing a garden plot offering six to 10 hours of sunlight per day. All strawberry plant varieties produce well when afforded enough full sun. Everbearing Strawberries Everbearing strawberry types differ from June-bearing and day-neutral plants because they produce small crops only in late spring and early fall. Everbearing is the oldest variety of strawberry plant and its popularity is waning. Many growers believe the June-bearing and day-neutral cultivars have superior-tasting fruit. Consistent with June-bearing and day-neutral plants, everbearing strawberry plants require the same type of soil and plot location. Early spring, with drying soil conditions, is the optimal time for transplanting Everbearing strawberry plants. Regional Considerations Strawberry cultivars are available that are hardy in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 11. As Floridata puts it, cultivars have been adapted for "all climatic zones where plants will grow." Among the many varieties to choose from, a sampling of recommended types might begin, for areas with cold winter temperatures, with Junebearing "Northeaster" (Fragaria x ananassa "Northeaster," which is hardy in USDA zones 4-8) and "Sable" (Fragaria x ananassa "Sable," hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8). For Midwesterners, Ohio State University suggests day-neutral "Tribute" (Fragaria x ananassa "Tribute") and Junebearing "Earliglow" (Fragaria x ananassa "Earliglow"), both hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, among others. Gardeners in the South will find success with "Cardinal" (Fragaria x ananassa "Cardinal"), hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9, while West Coast growers should consider "Sequoia" (Fragaria x ananassa "Sequoia"), a Junebearing variety hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. Purchasing stock from local growers ensures the plant selection offered is pre-screened and adaptable to your hardiness zone. With careful selection and proper care, gardeners in most states can enjoy juicy strawberries from their summer gardens.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
Miss Chen
Of the many varietals of strawberries in the botanical family Frageria, three kinds predominate for home garden and commercial production: June-bearers, everbearing and day-neutral. All three should be planted early in the spring to achieve the best fruiting performance. Early Spring Planting [图片]Strawberries should be planted outdoors as soon as the ground soil is soft and warm enough to dig up and easily till. In most climates this will be sometime in March or April. Earliest spring planting allows you to have as long a growing and fruiting season as possible and ensures that the strawberry plants' root systems are well developed before the heat of summer comes along. Siting and Planting Technique [图片]Select a planting location that receives a full sun exposure and has a rich, well-drained and weed free soil. Always plant strawberry plants when the soil is relatively dry, after rain or previous heavy irrigation has dried up. Cut away any diseased or damaged leaves before planting in the soil and soak the roots in tepid water for an hour or so if planting bare root strawberries. Plant the strawberry plants up to the shoulder of its roots or root-ball level with the surrounding soil. Press soil around the roots being careful not to allow any soil to fall onto the crown or top of the plant between the stems. Plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon to limit the amount of sun and heat stress on the plant during the first 24 hours or so that it is acclimating to its new surroundings. Mulching and Fertilizing [图片]Strawberries benefit from being mulched over the plant tops in winter for cold and frost protection and around the base of the roots in spring and summer to prevent moisture loss and keep berries from contact with the soil. Straw works best for winter mulching and straw or shredded bark work well in spring and summer. Strawberries can be fed with a light dose of water soluble fertilizer right after planting and watering in. Choose a good quality balanced crystal fertilizer like a 10-10-10 and mix 2 to 3 tbsp. with a gallon of water. Apply at least a cup of the solution to the roots of each plant, never pouring over the leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
Miss Chen
Strawberries are a delicious addition to the home garden.There are three types of strawberry plant: June-bearers, ever bearers and day neutrals. Each type of strawberry plant has different fertilization timing requirements. For all types of strawberries, a 10-10-10 fertilizer promotes overall plant growth and health. And in all cases, never fertilize plants once flowering has started or when berries are still on the plant. [图片]Soil Preparation Prepare the soil for any new strawberry plants. Amend clay soils with generous amounts of organic matter and coarse sand. Amend sandy soils with generous amounts of organic matter. The plants perform the best in a rich loamy soil. The nutrients in the soil are necessary to the overall health and productivity of the plant. Add a fertilizer that contains a balanced amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphate (10-10-10 NPK) to nutrient deprived soil in the planting area. On average, 6 feet of planting bed requires 1 oz. of fertilizer and a 100-foot plot requires a pound of fertilizer. The balanced fertilizer will prevent overproduction of leaves and the best berry production. Pinching the flowers off strawberry plants for the first month after planting them encourages the plant to put energy into root system establishment. After that time, allow the plant to produce buds and flower. Types Day-neutral strawberries continuously produce berries until frost kills the plant. They grow as annuals in areas prone to frost. Fertilize day-neutral strawberries during the first week of July and then allow the plant to produce blooms. June-bearers produce one crop of berries per year, typically in June. Fertilize June-bearer strawberries in July after harvesting all of the berries. Ever-bearer strawberries produce a crop early in the summer and again in the fall. Fertilize ever bearer strawberries late in the summer after the harvesting the first crop. [图片]Considerations Water plants well after fertilizing them so the fertilizer will reach the root system. The buds for the following season's growth develop at this time. Do not fertilize strawberry plants in the fall. This will promote new growth that winter frost harms. Heavily cover strawberry plants with straw to protect them throughout the winter. Day-neutral and ever-bearer plants typically produce smaller berries than June-bearers do. Do not over fertilize plants in an effort to have bigger berries. The plant will only produce more leaves and fewer berries.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
Miss Chen
Strawberries may struggle with the summer heat in east and south Texas, but the state's heat also provides an opportunity for strawberry growers. Fall planting helps to protect strawberries from the worst of the heat, and it also allows Texas gardeners to enjoy a crop of berries earlier than gardeners in much of the rest of the country. [图片]Annual vs. Perennial Strawberries (Fragaria ananassa) are hardy perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 5 to 8, which means they're able to survive through multiple growing seasons in north Texas. In USDA zones 9 to 10, however, strawberries are most commonly grown as cool-season annuals; that is, they're planted in the fall, bear fruit in the spring and then are tilled under in the summer to be replaced with new plants the following fall. In central and east Texas, including the Dallas-Fort Worth area, plant strawberries in September; in the hottest parts of south Texas, wait until November. In north Texas, plant in late winter or early spring. Variety Selection Spring-bearing strawberry varieties ripen in February in the hotter parts of Texas and as late as June in north Texas. The spring-bearing varieties best suited to growing in Texas include "Chandler," "Sequoia" and "Douglas." Texas gardeners should avoid ever-bearing and day-neutral varieties; these types of strawberry do best in cooler climates and do not fare at all well in Texas, especially in the southern section of the state. Soil Types and Planting Strawberries prefer full sun, but they will tolerate some afternoon shade. They also require well-drained soil and perform best in soil that's neutral to slightly acidic, with a pH level between 6.5 and 7. Strawberries are able to tolerate alkaline soils with pH between 7.5 to 7.8, although plants in these soils may suffer from iron deficiency and require supplements. Plants grow best when planted in raised rows, which help to improve drainage and air circulation. Rows should be spaced 12 inches apart, with individual plants spaced 12 inches apart within the rows. Place the plants deep enough that their roots are fully covered but so that the crown where the leaves emerge is not buried. [图片]Fertilization and Watering Fertilize with a 15-5-10 fertilizer at planting, mixing about 2 cups of the fertilizer into the soil of each 25-foot row. Switch to a 21-0-0 nitrogen fertilizer for application every three weeks during the growing season, applying about 3/4 cup per row. Water plants every day for the first two weeks after planting to encourage the establishment of the transplants. Reduce the frequency of watering through the winter, but water enough to keep the soil consistently moist, especially in east and south Texas.
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2017年11月14日
Miss Chen
If you live in Tennessee, and would like to plant strawberries, it is important to consider your growing conditions. Strawberries require full sun and well-drained soil in order to thrive. A variety of diseases affect Tennessee strawberries--verticillium wilt, leaf spot, anthracnose, leaf scorch and leaf blight just to name a few. A few strawberry cultivars, such as Allstar and Earliglow, grow well in Tennessee and show resistance to such diseases. [图片]Step 1 Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower. Step 2 Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods. Step 3 Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart. [图片]Step 4 Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting. Step 5 Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain. Step 6 Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting. Step 7 Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes are among the most popular vegetables to grow in the home garden. The two most common reasons for tomato failure in Kansas are planting them too early before temperatures are sufficiently warm, and not providing adequate moisture, especially during hot, windy weather. Kansas gardeners with sandy soils should monitor soil moisture frequently, since these soils tend to dry out quickly. [图片]Step 1 Buy dark green, compact plants, selecting disease-resistant varieties if possible. Fusarium wilt is the most common tomato plant disease in Kansas, according to Kansas State University, while nematodes affect tomatoes in areas south of Interstate 70. Step 2 Hand-broadcast a complete garden fertilizer on the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of soil. Dig the soil with a shovel to a depth of 8 inches or use a rototiller. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, which encourage lush vegetative growth with few fruits. The first number on the fertilizer box indicates the nitrogen level. It should be half the level of the other nutrients, i.e. 5-10-10. Step 3 Plant tomatoes when the daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees F and all chance of frost is passed. According to Kansas State University, in southeastern Kansas, plant tomatoes early-to-mid April; in eastern and central Kansas, plant tomatoes from late April to early May. In northwest Kansas, plant tomatoes after May 15. Cover the tomatoes with a row cover or cloche if cold weather threatens. Step 4 Water tomato plants at least weekly, as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't allow the soil to dry out between watering and avoid watering it until it is soggy, which contributes to blossom-end rot. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost, grass clippings or straw around the base of the plants to minimize weed growth and conserve moisture. [图片]Step 5 Monitor tomato plants for disease and pest problems. Consult a local county extension office for help in identifying and treating specific problems. Good cultural practices, such as selecting disease-resistant plants and watering tomatoes evenly and consistently prevent many problems. Remove any dead or diseased plant material, hand-pick and destroy tomato hornworms and avoid the use of pesticides that kill ladybugs and lacewings, since these predatory insects help eliminate pests. Step 6 Twist the tomatoes gently to remove them from the plants when they are ripe, or almost ripe (pink to bright red, depending on the variety). If a frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and lay them in a single layer in a box. Place them in a cool, dark place, such as a basement, to ripen.
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2017年11月13日
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Warm-season crops such as tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be a bit finicky when it comes to temperature. While tomatoes are short-lived perennials in tropical climates, they are grown as annual plants throughout the U.S. The late spring snows and early autumn frosts often experienced in Missouri can leave many gardeners gambling on the best dates to start seeds and set out transplants. While there are no guarantees when it comes to weather, following a few standard guidelines can take a bit of the guesswork out of tomato gardening. [图片]Check Up on Climate Data A long history of record-keeping has provided farmers and gardeners alike with data on average frost dates and precipitation. The Missouri Climate Center at the University of Missouri-Columbia divides the state up based on latitudinal variation and elevation. On average, the last frost of spring for northern Missouri is April 20 and for central locations is April 10. Areas with higher elevations, such as the Ozark Plateau, tend to be cooler even though they are in the south, so tax day, April 15, is a good guideline. With these regional variations aside, most of Missouri has an average of 180 frost-free days in which to grow tomatoes. Choosing the right varieties, as well as a little pre-planning, will reap the biggest rewards. Sow Seeds Indoors Tomatoes are very sensitive to cold and will show damage at any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Since most varieties of tomatoes will produce fruit until the first frost, the sooner you can move plants into the garden, the more tomatoes you'll harvest. For gardeners who like to sow their own seeds, start inside mid-March in a sunny window. Soil needs to be warm, at least 62 degrees F, and seeds will sprout within two weeks. Seedlings will be transplant-ready by the last week in April, but still a bit tender. Rather than put them out directly, try acclimating them over a period of a few days by putting them outside for a few hours and bringing them back in. Transplanting Seedlings in the Garden If you'd rather purchase seedlings from a garden center than wait for seeds, don't be tricked by size. The ideal height for a tomato seedling to transplant is around 8 inches, with a sturdy stem. Many places will sell much larger plants -- often at a higher cost -- but tomatoes of this size do not tend to transplant well and any extra growth will be lost as it adjusts to its new environment. [图片]Seedlings bought from a garden center may not have been acclimated to Missouri's climate if they are fresh off a truck from a greenhouse, so consider putting them out for a few hours each day for several days before planting them in the ground the first week of May. Choose the Right Variety As America's most popular garden crop, tomatoes come in a wide variety of sizes, colors and cultivars. Heirloom varieties, those that have been cultivated for more than 50 years, have an old-fashioned taste, but typically take longer to mature -- often needing more than 80 days to flower, fruit and ripen. Newer, hybrid varieties have been developed over the years to be both more resistant to diseases that cause blight and wilt as well as faster to ripen. The University of Missouri Extension recommends mid-sized hybrid cultivars such as "Celebrity" and "Better Boy," which can ripen within 75 days, and the smaller "Early Girl" variety, which ripens in less than 60 days. Cherry tomatoes and smaller varieties, such as "Supersweet 100s" take around 65 days.
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2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Cherry tomatoes are among the sweetest tasting, and canning them allows a family to enjoy the summer crop for many more months. The bite-sized morsels are perfect for many recipes calling for tomatoes. Having the right equipment and following some simple rules makes the canning much easier, and safer. Keeping a clean work area and tools cannot be overemphasized when canning the garden's harvest. [图片]Step 1 Check the jars, seals and lids for any damage, such as dents, uneven rims or nicks that would cause the seal to fail. Step 2 Wash jars and lids with hot, soapy water and rinse completely. Set the bands aside. Place jars, lids and wiping cloth in a pan filled with 180-degree-Fahrenheit water and keep there until needed. Step 3 Fill the canner half-full of water and bring to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the rack in the canner and keep the lid on. Step 4 Choose cherry tomatoes that are free of blemishes or damage. Wash and drain them. Step 5 Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Remove them from the boiling water and immediately dip into ice water. [图片]Step 6 Skin the tomatoes by pinching them and remove any unripe parts. Leave the tomatoes whole or crush them for sauce. Place into a saucepan and add water to cover. Gently boil for 5 minutes and remove from heat. Step 7 Remove the canning jars while the tomatoes are cooking. Set on a towel and add 2 tbsp. lemon juice to a quart jar. Add only 1 tbsp. to a pint jar. Step 8 Ladle the tomatoes into the hot jars, leaving ½ inch room at the top. Push down on the tomatoes to expel any air. Liquid must be poured over the tomatoes to fill the spaces, again leaving ½ inch space at the top. You can use either plain water or tomato juice, or the water from the pot that the tomatoes were boiling in. Add 1 tsp. of salt to a quart jar or a 1/2 tsp. to a pint jar. Step 9 Press down and on the sides of the tomatoes to release any additional air bubbles trapped in the jar. Step 10 Pull the wiping cloth from the heated pot and clean the jar rims and threads. Place a lid on each jar and screw on the band to medium tight. Step 11 Place the jars into the canner rack and lower it into the 180-degree water. The water should be 1 to 2 inches higher than the lids. Place lid back on the canner and heat the water to a boil. Let boil for 40 to 45 minutes for pints and quarts, respectively. Step 12 Turn off the heat and let the canner cool. Remove the jars and set on the counter on top of a dry towel. Allow them to cool for 24 hours. Step 13 Check the lids after cooling by pressing down on the center. It should stay down. Wipe the jars clean a final time and store in a cool, dark place
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