动态第465页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2017年11月01日

Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown vegetables at home, in part because they are considered relatively low-maintenance vegetables. Still, their being low maintenance does not make them immune to damage incurred from natural conditions such as extreme temperature changes. A failure to protect your tomato plants from such conditions can result in poor-quality fruit yield come harvest time. [图片]Tomatoes and Temperature Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator. Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars. Spotting a Mealy Tomato Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf. [图片]Other Considerations If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.

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Miss Chen

2017年11月01日

Tomatoes are 95 percent water, with most varieties soaking up summer rains to become pump and juicy on the vine. Water – along with sunshine and nutrient-rich soil – is needed at every stage of the growing process. Otherwise, tomatoes won't grow, blossom and produce fruit. The manner in which water is delivered, either via rain or via a controlled system, can affect tomatoes in a positive way, or can also have devastating results. [图片]Cracking and Splitting A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain. Blossom End Rot A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth. [图片]Insects A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects. Fungal Blight Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月30日

Pruning is a crucial aspect of grapevine cultivation, affecting overall vine balance. Extensive pruning takes place mid to late winter after grapevines enter winter dormancy to encourage productivity and direct vine canopy and bud growth during the growing season. Bare, exposed canes signal the dormancy of the vine. Removing old wood to make room for new fruiting wood is the primary purpose for heavily pruning grape vines. [图片]Timing and Temperature Because only shoots growing from 1-year-old canes produce fruit, healthy new canes must be produced every year to maintain annual production of fruit. A pruning practice that facilitates the production of fruiting wood involves removing all of the previous year's fruiting canes or spurs (now 2 years old) and any excess 1-year-old canes. From January through early March, grape growers should remove about 90 percent of wood growth from the previous growing season — with the exception of new 1-year-old fruiting canes and renewal spurs (new trunks), according to Oregon State University's Department of Horticulture. Pruning in the fall may increase vine susceptibility to freeze injury during winter. Optimal timing for pruning occurs when winter's coldest temperatures have likely passed and when temperatures consistently maintain levels above freezing. Age Considerations Cut back to two or three buds, a first-year vine should grow several shoots, promoting abundant leaf growth on the vine to permit the formation of a strong root system. The second year, remove flower clusters from the young vine as they form throughout the growing season. Implement typical pruning practices during the vine's third winter and allow fruit to develop during the following growing season. Old, neglected vines should undergo severe pruning in stages to minimize shock to the plant, removing dead and diseased wood first, continuing at intervals to remove old wood while leaving the new, 1-year-old wood growth. [图片]Spring Pruning In regions where risk of injury to the vine from severe winter weather exists, postpone heavy pruning until early spring. According to Cornell University, delay pruning through the winter months as long as feasible to reduce the danger of cold injury. If extremely cold temperatures do not occur in December, January and February, the danger of vine injury from cold is reduced. March may still produce damaging temperatures, but avoiding injury is more likely. Cornell University recommends examining the buds and proceeding on the basis of actual injury when the possibility of cold and freeze damage to grape vines exist, allowing you to compensate for actual injury losses. Fruit Thinning Fruit thinning is a type of pruning that is often necessary during the growing season to control excessive fruit production by permitting no more than one fruit cluster for each rapidly growing shoot. Fruit thinning ensures maximum quality and ripening, and its effectiveness depends on targeting new growth as early as possible throughout the growing season. During summer bloom, remove small or imperfect flower clusters at their first appearance to promote growth of large clusters of large grapes.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月30日

People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble. [图片]Check Your Climate Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8. Choose Where to Plant A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow. Plant Correctly Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space. Support Your Vines The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own. [图片]Fertilize Properly Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results: Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth. Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines. Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer. Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year. Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Provide Water and Mulch Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches. Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月30日

Muscadine grapes have shallow roots that feed upon nutrients within the top 12 inches of the soil. Correct application of nutrients is important. The type and schedule of fertilization depends largely upon the existing conditions of the soil and age of the muscadine grape. Before planting vegetation, perform a soil test, which will inform you of the soil pH and the nutrient status of your site. [图片]First Year Fertilization Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications. Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place. Magnesium Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July. [图片]Boron Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月30日

Sour, unripe grapes can spoil a dish and you won't want to eat them on their own. Because grapes are used in so many things, from salads and desserts to wines, and juices, it's important to choose quality grapes that will make the item the best it can be. Checking grapes carefully when you buy or harvest them from your backyard grapevines will help you pick the highest-quality fruits. Grapes do not continue to ripen once they're cut from the vine, so pick or buy them at their peak. [图片]Color When grapes are ripe and of good quality, they should be either blue, red or light green. If the grapes are still dark green, they are not yet ripe. The variety you recognize as "green" grapes are categorized as white grapes. These grapes are ripe when they turn a light chartreuse, a subtle yellow-green. If a grape is brown or turning brown, it is either going bad or did not get the required nutrients while it was growing. Look for a uniform color across the grapes on the bunch or the vine. If colors vary, the grapes are getting an uneven amount of nutrients, which will lead to lower quality grapes. Size There is no standard grape size. Size depends on grape variety, including whether it is a seedless type. But size can be a good indicator of grape quality if you know what size is best for the cultivar. Look for a standard size across all the grapes on the vine. If the grapes on the vine are vastly different sizes, the grapes are not getting an even amount of nutrients and will be a lower quality grape. Firmness When grapes are growing, they are firm. Look for grapes that are firm but give and spring back when lightly pressed. Check their quality by giving several grapes a gentle squeeze. If the grapes are soft or have soft spots, they are overripe and going bad. If grapes are still on the vine and getting soft, then they were not picked soon enough or they did not receive the proper amount of nutrients. [图片]Taste To some extent, the color, taste and firmness can all indicate a grape is good. The only thing left to do is taste it. Even if grapes give all indications that they are good, the taste may prove otherwise. Sometimes, grapes grow properly but do not come become sweet. When this happens, try letting the grapes ripen longer, but if they don't get sweeter, they may not have gotten the right nutrients. When tasting, try a single grape from the bunch.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月30日

Wine grapes come in over 5,000 varieties each ranging in different colors, flavors and sweetness. Unlike other fruits, grapes stop ripening once they are plucked from the vine. Once you have plucked a bunch of sour grapes, you are stuck with them. Eating sour grapes can set your "teeth on edge" and may even make your tummy upset. For most people, eating a sour treat is not enjoyable. Sweeten up your sour grapes to make them more palatable. [图片]Step 1 Pluck the grapes from one bunch from their stems, which should yield between 20 to 40 grapes. Place them on a tray and freeze them for at least three hours. You can use any color grapes for this recipe. Step 2 Whisk the egg whites of two eggs with 1/8 teaspoon of lemon juice in a glass bowl. This mixture makes a sort of glue that holds the sugar in place. If you have an egg allergy, you can use an egg substitute. [图片]Step 3 Pour 2 cups of white granulated sugar in another bowl. Working in batches of five or 10, drop the grapes in the egg mixture, blot them dry to remove the excess egg, then roll them in the sugar. Step 4 Arrange the sugared grapes on decorative trays and serve them immediately.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月28日

Flavorful and low-maintenance everbearing strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) offer two main crops of strawberries -- in the late spring and early fall -- with some berry production throughout the summer. Grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 10, strawberries are hardy perennials that produce fruit when planted in full sun. [图片]Strawberries come in three types: everbearing, day-neutral and June-bearing. While everbearing strawberries produce fruit from spring to fall, June-bearers produce fruits once a year in the summer. Day-neutral strawberries are similar to everbearing strawberries in that they produce fruit all summer; however, while everbearers produce more fruit at the beginning and the end of the season with a few fruits in the middle, day-neutral strawberries produce more consistently throughout the summer. Planting Everbearing Strawberries Select an area that receives full sun -- six to eight hours of sunlight a day -- for strawberries. As soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, till the garden space or use a spade to work up the soil and remove all grass and weeds. Add 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil and work into the soil at least 6 inches deep. Strawberries like loamy soil with pH of 5.8 to 6.5. To make soil more alkaline, add 3 pounds of lime per 100 square feet of soil per point increase. To reduce soil pH, add 1 1/2 pounds of elemental sulfur per 100 square feet of soil per point decrease. Place strawberries 15 inches apart in three row sections. Leave a 2-foot walkway between each three row section. Make rows long enough to accommodate the desired number of plants with this spacing. [图片]Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball of the strawberry plant and deep enough that the middle of the crown is level with the soil surface. Refill the hole with soil and water deeply. Mulch around plants to prevent weeds. Maintaining Plants Water strawberries with 1 inch of water per week through spring, summer and fall. During times of excessive rain, do not water until the surface of the soil is dry. Fertilize everbearing strawberries once a year with 1 pound of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet beginning after the first harvest in the second season and each following year. Rather than working the fertilizer into the soil, water thoroughly after fertilizing to get the fertilizer to the roots. Primary harvests will be in late spring and early fall, but continue to look for ripe fruits on everbearing varieties throughout summer. Everbearing strawberries do not produce many runners -- stems protruding from the crown of the plant that produce a baby plant -- but they will produce some during the summer. Pinch off all runners at the point where they emerge from the plant. Pinching runners allows the plant to put all its energy toward fruit production rather than producing new plants. In areas that experience freezing temperatures over the winter, cover strawberries with straw mulch after the first hard freeze. Keep the plants covered throughout winter. When temperatures begin to warm in the spring, start checking for new growth on strawberry plants. Remove mulch when new leaves start to appear from the center of the crown of the plant.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月28日

Strawberries (Fragaria ananassa) are productive little plants that, given good growing conditions, will produce prolifically year after year. Although the length and severity of Michigan winters, particularly in the northern reaches of the state, can be a challenge to some fruit crops, strawberries aren't daunted by the cold. Cultivars are available that are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 11, so they can handle the climate throughout Michigan. [图片]Recommended Varieties June-bearing strawberry varieties produce one large crop of berries, usually in mid-June in Michigan, and they typically produce more berries per season than other types of plants. Among suitable varieties of June-bearing cultivars for Michigan are "Allstar" (Fragaria ananassa "Allstar") and "Jewel" (Fragaria ananassa "Jewel"), both of which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, and "Cavendish" (Fragaria ananassa "Cavendish") and "Annapolis" (Fragaria ananassa "Annapolis"), which are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. Ever-bearing varieties produce two relatively small crops, the first in the spring and the second in the early fall; the timing of the crops is triggered by the length of daylight hours. Day-neutral varieties produce berries independently of day length and may produce through most of the season. Recommended cultivars for the state include "Tribute" (Fragaria ananassa "Tribute") and "Tristar" (Fragaria ananassa "Tristar"), which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8. Site Selection Strawberries prefer well-drained soils that contain plenty of organic matter. They also need at least 8 hours of sunlight per day to produce well, so they should be planted in full sun; although the plants can tolerate partial shade, they're unlikely to bear well if they don't get enough light. Strawberries will also produce best if they're growing in slightly acidic soil with a pH level between 5.3 and 6.5. [图片]Soil Preparation Strawberries benefit from consistent soil moisture, so the soil in the planting bed needs to drain well yet retain enough moisture to keep the plants' roots from drying out. Incorporating 1 to 4 inches of organic compost or peat moss into the soil will help by contributing moisture-retentive material to sandy soils that otherwise might drain too quickly and by loosening dense clay soils that might retain too much water. Setting Plants Plant strawberries as early in the spring as possible so that they have plenty of time to get established at the beginning of the season. Strawberries must be planted at the correct depth or they won't grow well. If they're planted so shallowly that the roots are exposed, the roots may dry out, but if they're planted so deeply that the crown where the leaves emerge is buried, the plant may rot. Place the plants so that the surface of the soil meets the midpoint of the crown. Firm the soil around the plants and water them well. In laying out rows of plants, space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, with 3 or 4 feet between rows. In a "matted row" planting system, plants are allowed to send out runners from which new plants grow and fill in the row; this system works well with June-bearing varieties. In a "hill" planting systems, runners are cut off and not allowed to produce new plants; this system is most often used with ever-bearing or day-neutral varieties.

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Miss Chen

2017年10月28日

Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often. [图片]Step 1 Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily. Step 2 Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process. Step 3 Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process. Step 4 Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine. [图片]Step 5 Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting. Step 6 Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale. Step 7 Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short. Step 8 Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month. Step 9 Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch. Step 10 Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.

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